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JOURNAL 


RESIDENCE  IN  CHINA,      j 

.    1  i 


NEIGHBORING  COUNTRIES; 


i 


COMMENCEMENT   AND   PROGRESS   OF   MISSIONS   IN   THE    WORLD.         ' 


J 
BYDAVIDABEEL,,  « 

Missionary  to  China.  ^ 


SECOND    EDITION, 


NEW   YORK:  |  ■ 

PUBLISHED  BY  J.  ABEEL  WILLIAMSON,  i 

Corner  of  Vesey  and  Washington  Streets.  ij 


1836. 


Entered  acccrdiug  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1834,  by 
Leavitt,  Lord  &  Co.,  in  the  Clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  the 
Southern  District  of  New  York. 


C-v^ 


Wa.  Storer  Jun.  Prini, 
New  Haven,  Ct. 


At  a  meeting  of  the  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  of  the  Re- 
formed Dutch  Church,  held  September  13th,  1834,  the  following 
resolution  was  adopted. 

The  Rev.  David  Abeel  having  slated  that  he  had  in  hand  a 
manuscript,  consisting  of  a  journal,  observations  upon  the  state 
of  society  in  the  East,  wants  of  the  heathen,  &c., 

Resolved^  That  this  Board  forthwith  take  measures  for  the 
publication  of  said  manuscript,  under  the  immediate  inspection 
and  agency  of  Mr.  Abeel. 

The  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  of  the  Reformed  Dutch 
Church  was  organized  in  1832,  to  act  in  connection  and  concert 
with  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Mis- 
sions. Its  funds  are  paid  over  to  the  General  Board,  to  be  di- 
rected to  such  objects  as  may  be  specified. 


443971 


CONTENTS 


Abstract  of  missionary  operations  in  the  world,      .        .        Page    5 

Chap.  I.— Departure  from  New  York — Divine  service  on  board— Isl- 
and of  St.  Paul— Amsterdam— Sandal- wood  island— Ombay  passage 
—Islands  of  Flores,  Solor,  Lomblem,  Ombay,Timor,  Cambing,  Baby 
— Early  Catholic  missions  on  these  islands— Portuguese  Xavier — 
Dutch  conquests-— Missions — Zeal  of  early  missionaries— Declen- 
sion of  eighteenth  century— Present  mission  of  Dutch  on  Timor, 
Rottij  Letty,  Moa,  Kesser,  and  Roma— Banda  sea  and  island— Ar- 
roo  group,  Booro — Amboyna,  Mr.  Kam — Manippa — Ternati — Ef- 
forts of  Netherlands'  Missionary  Society — New  Guinea,  Waijoo — 
Plan  for  the  conversion  of  these  islands — Pelew  islands  and  na- 
tives  31 

Chap.  II. — Chinese  fishing  boats — Formosa — Ladrone  islands — Chi- 
nese pilots— Lintin — Opium  trade — Macao — Description  and  histo- 
ry cf  city — Catholicism — Superstitions — Passage  in  small  Chinese 
boat  to  Whampoa — Foreign  shipping — Objects  on  the  way — Night 
scene — Arrival  at  Canton — Dr.  Morrison,      ....        59 

Chap.  III.  —Description  of  Canton  and  its  vicinity — Religions  of  Chi- 
na—Appearance of  women — Beggars — Foreign  factories — Open 
space  before  them— Appearance  of  river— Crowds  of  boats — Island 
of  Hainam— Chinese  temple — Chinese  merchants— Mode  of  speak- 
ing English — Men  and  women, 75 

Chap.  IV.— Worship  in  English— Ah-see— Monthly  concert— -Preach- 
ing at  Whampoa— Whampoa  island — French  do.,  Danes  do.,  Pro- 


a  CONTENTS. 

cessions,  burial,  hymenial  and  religious — Leang  Afa — Drama- Wa 
tune's  day — Macao — Procession — Return  to  Canton — Houses  ol 
Hong  merchants — Illuminated  boats — Ceremonies  in  the  city  ballad 
singing — Crowds    of  natives — Decorations    of  streets — god    of 
fire, 105 

Chap.  V. — Female  infanticide — Condition  of  women— Cruelty  of  pun- 
ishments—Number  and  condition  of  prisoners,     ...        133 

Chap.  VI. — Missionary  labors  at  Canton  and  Whampoa— Appeal  in 
behalf  of  China— What  ought  to  be  done,    ....        139 

Chap.  VIL— Passage  to  Java— Mode  of  dealing  with  sailors— Ameri- 
can sailors — Impropriety  of  sending  boys  to  sea — No  object  gained 
— Cochin-China — Sumatra, 151 

Chap.  VIII. — Angier— Journey  to  Batavia— Traveling— Wildness  of 
country — Large  estate — Batavia— Mr.  Medhurst— Java  as  a  mis- 
sionary field — Population — Language — Chief  towns — The  mission- 
ary's daily  labors — Chinese — Hospital — Market-places — Prison- 
Chinese  new  year — Popular  deities — Infanticide  in  China — Visit  to 
a  bazaar  in  the  country  to  distribute  tracts— Interview  with  Cochin- 
Chinese— Catholicism  in  Cochin  China — Tour  to  another  market- 
place— Protestant  Portuguese  settlement— Service  in  Dutch  church 
—Chinese  sacrifice  at  the  graves  of  their  relatives — Chinese  ceremo- 
ny of  passing  through  fire — Mission  schools — Malayan  do.— Visit 
to  Bitenzorg,  the  residence  of  the  governor,  and  labors  there— Re- 
marks on  Java, 159 

Chap.  IX.— Passage  to  Singapore— Sumatra,  different  states— Cus- 
toms—Religion — Singapore — Missionaries — Passage  to  Siam  in 
company  with  Mr.  Tomlin — Arab  ship— Conduct  of  Mohammedan 
sailors — Coast  of  Malayan  peninsula — Passage  up  the  Meinam — 
Appearance  of  Siamese — Bankok — Disappointment  in  not  meeting 
GutzlaiF— Portuguese  consul— R.  Hunter,  Esq.,  .        .        195 

Chap.  X. — Description  of  Siam — City  of  Bankok — Variety  of  inhab- 
itants— Enslaved  condition  of  multitudes,  their  misery  and  vice — 


CONTENTS.  6 

Religion  of  Budha — Priests — Religion  of  Chinese,  Burmese,  Pe- 
guins,  Malays,  Portuguese — First  Protestant  missionaries — Visit  to 
Pra  Klang— Missionary  houses — Medical  depository — Native  sim- 
plicity— Visit  of  princes — Interesting  interview  with  priest — Other 
priests — Cambodjian  prince — Cambodjia  as  missionary  ground — 
Sacred  month — Illuminations — King's  visit  to  the  tgraples — Splen- 
did procession  of  barges— Overflow  of  the  Meinam — Affecting  case 
of  Chinese  youth — Sabbath  worshipers-— Heathen's  cruelty — Some 
fruits  of  labor — Funeral  array — Splendid  temples  and  idols — Close 
of  first  visit  to  Siam — Caution  toreaders  of  missionary  journals,  211 

Chap.  XL — Passage  to  Singapore— Mr.  Thomsen — Description  of 
Singapore — Importance  as  mission  station— Printing — Schools — 
Visit  along  coast — Passage  to  Malacca — Town  of  Malacca — An- 
glo-Chinese college —  Missionaries — -Schools — Resident— Return 
to  Singapore — Embarkation  fqr  Siam — China  junk — Straitened 
apartments — Dull  passage — Sailors—Idolatry — Efforts  to  restrain 
them — Tringano—Squall — Loss  of  Chinese  vessels — Degraded  in- 
habitants of  Malayan  peninsula — Arrival — Ignorance  of  heathen — 
Custom-house  officers,  .....  257 

Chap.  XII. — General  view  of  second  visit  to  Siam — Supplying  Chi- 
nese junks  with  books — Missionary  labors— Little  congregation — 
Medical  practice — Condition  of  some  patients — Conduct  of  servants 
— Convert  of  Gutzlaff— Sacred  season— Prince  Chaw  Fah— Ar- 
rangement with  Prince — Swimming  child — Malayan  captives — 
Mode  of  preserving  dead — Superstition  in  regard  to  evil  spirits,  &c. 
—Interesting  priest — Most  common  language  of  Siam — Chinese 
languages — Mode  of  studying — Last  Sabbath  service — Appointment 
of  expounder — Juthia-r-Chantibun — Note  containing  baptism  of 
some  since,  ......  283 

Chap.  XIII.-— Passage  to  Singapore — Visit  to  Rhio — Description  cf 
Rhio — Death  and  character  of  Rev.  R,  Burn — Labors  at  Singapore 
— Illness— Embarkation  for  England— Changes  at  Singapore — 
]>^ote, 311 


4  CONTENTS. 

Chap.  XIV.— Borneo— Foreign  settlers— Aborigines  called  Dyaks— 
Degradation  and  cruelty— Passion  for  human  heads— No  celebra- 
tion without  them— Ideas  of  religion— Brutal  condition  of  northern 
tribes — Borneo  as  missionary  ground — Dutch  station.  321 

CHiP.  XV.— Celebes— Languages— Religion— Mandhaar— Mode  of 
life — Mamoojoo— Rajahs— Pirates— Missionary  station  under  Neth- 
erlands society-^Island  of  Sooloo-Mindano — Palawan,      .        331 

Chap.  XVI,~Philippine  islands— Spanish  possessions — Extent— Value 
— Inhabitants— Influence  of  Catholic  priests— Superstitions,        339' 

Chap.  XVII.— Loo  Choo  islands — Number— Size— Scenery— Inter- 
esting inhabitants — Laws — Language — Religion — Gutzlaff's  visit — 
Importance  of  having  missionary  ships,        .  .  347 

Chap.  XVIII. — Japan — Description — Towns — Laws — Language — 
Religions — Labors  of  Jesuits,  ....  355 

Chap.  XIX.— St.  Helena— Conclusion — Talent  entrusted  to  Chris- 
tians— United  and  more  vigorous  efforts  necessary — Address  to 
ministers  on  behalf  of  missions — Zeal  of  Jesuits— Students  of  The- 
ology— Importance  of  colonies— Address  to  physicians— Pious  mer- 
chants— Ladies — Wealth — All  classes — Necessity  of  co-operation 
in  those  at  home— Mothers — Teachers,        ,         ,  365 


AN    ABSTRACT 

Of 

MISSIONARY   OPERATIONS  IN  THE  WORLD. 


Various  opinions  have  been  advanced  respecting 
he  exact  population. of  the  world.  From  recent  in- 
vestigations in  China,  and  other  eastern  countries 
which  may  be  regarded  the  principal  scenes  of  human 
life,  there  is  every  reason  to  conclude  that  nine  hundred 
or  a  thousand  millions  of  souls  is  the  most  correct  es- 
timate. 

Of  this  number  two  hundred  and  twenty  millions 
inhabit  Europe.  About  one  hundred  and  twenty  mill- 
ions make  up  the  various  kingdoms  and  tribes  of  Af- 
rica. Forty  millions  is  the  probable  census  of  North 
and  South  America, — while  the  immense  residue, 
amounting  to  six  hundred  millions  or  more,  inhabit 
the  vast  empires,  and  kingdoms,  and  islands  of  Asia. 

Of  the  inhabitants  of  the  world,  about  six  hundred 
millions  are  Pagans ;  one  hundred  and  fifty  millions 
are  Mohammedans  ;  three  millions  are  Jews,  and  two 
hundred  millions  are  nominal  Christians. 

When  we  analyze  the  proportion  of  nominal  Chris- 
tians, we  discover  that  one  hundred  and  twenty  mill- 


S  MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT. 

ions,  are  Rpraan.  Catholics  ;  forty-two  millions  belong 
to,  tfife  .Gwk^cjiurcjs,  and  an  overwhelming  majority 
of  the  remainder  are  embraced  in  the  following  classes ; 
— they  are  either  avowed  disbelievers  in  Christianity, 
or  professors  of  erroneous  doctrines ;  or  adherents  of 
mere  external  forms:  or  if  their  theoretical  sentiments 
be  correct,  they  are  perfectly  indifferent  to  the  doc- 
trines, and  disobedient  to  the  precepts  of  revealed  re- 
ligion. 

The  number  of  intelligent  and  exemplary  Chris- 
tians is  so  extremely  limited,  that  "  charity"  which 
"  hopeth  all  things,"  cannot  but  weep  while  she  care- 
fully counts  up  the  few  to  whom  she  can  lay  claim. 
We  do  not  pretend  to  specify  the  number ;  but  their 
God  has  declared  that  "  the  kingdom  and  dominon, 
and  the  greatness  of  the  kingdom  under  the  whole 
heaven  shall  be  given  to  the  people  of  the  saints  of  the 
Most  High."  It  is  a  subject  of  unutterable  gratitude 
to  every  devoted  Christian,  that  this  prediction  is,  at 
present,  in  the  progress  of  its  accomplishment.  With- 
in the  last  half  century,  the  churches  "holding  the 
mystery  of  the  faith  in  a  pure  conscience,"  have  begun 
to  feel  their  obligations  to  the  world,  and  commenced 
preaching  the  gospel  to  its  perishing  inhabitants.  Be- 
fore this  period  a  few  feeble  efforts  were  put  forth  at 
different  times  and  by  different  churches  ;  but  only 
one  denomination, — the  Moravians,-— manifested  a 
becoming  interest  in  the  duty.  Two  or  three  socie- 
ties were  organized  in  England  and  Scotland  before 
the  commencement  of  the  last  century.  These  were 
"  The  Society  for  propagating  the  gospel  in  foreign 
parts," — "  The  Society  for  promoting  Christian  know- 


MISSIONARY     ABSTRACT.  7 

ledge,-'— and  "The  Society  in  Scotland  for  promo- 
ting Christian  knowledge."  It  was  not  until  1732  that 
the  missionary  spirit  appe(ired  embodied  in  any  entire 
denomination.  At  that  period  the  United  Brethren,  or 
Moravians,  organized  their  church  into  a  missionary 
body,  and  nobly  resolved  to  attempt  the  instrumental 
work  of  evanofelizino:  the  world.  In  1792  the  Eno-- 
lish  Baptist  Missionary  Society  was  formed,  and  in 
the  following  year  the  celebrated  Dr.  Carey  com- 
menced his  useful  labors  in  India.  Before  this  period 
a  Baptist  Association  of  ministers  in  Nottingham  had 
fixed  upon  the  first  Monday  of  every  month  for  a  con- 
cert of  prayer  for  the  conversion  of  the  heathen.  The 
Moravians  however,  preceded  the  Baptists  more  than 
fifty  years  in  the  observation  of  this  season. 

The  London  Missionary  Society  was  instituted  in 
1795j  and  the  Scottish  Missionary  Society  in  the  fol- 
ing  year.  The  Church  Missionary  Society  com- 
menced its  existence  in  1800.  The  General  Wesleyan 
Missionary  Society  was  organized  in  1817,  though 
the  missionary  efforts  of  this  denomination  ought  to 
be  dated  from  1786.  The  German  Society,  the  French 
Protestant,  the  Rhemish  and  the  Netherlands  Societies 
are  of  a  more  recent  date.  In  the  United  States,  the 
American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions 
was  organized  in  1810.  "The  General  Convention 
of  the  Baptist  denomination  in  the  United  States  for 
Foreign  Missions"  in  1814,  "  The  Missionary  Society 
of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church"  in  1819.  "  The 
Foreign  Mission  Society  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church"  in  1820,  and  the  Wesleyan  Foreign  Mission 
Society  in  1832.     These  are  the  principal  societes  on- 

2 


B  MISSIONARY     ABSTHACI*. 

gaged  in  extending  the  kingdon  of  the  Redeemer  in 
the  world.  A  hasty  glance  at  the  stations  they  oc^ 
cupy,  and  the  success  with  which  their  labors  have 
been  crowned,  is  all  we  can  bestow  in  the  few  pages 
devoted  to  this  subject.  From  the  rapidity  which 
marks  the  changes  in  foreign  missions,  and  from  the 
want  of  exact  data  in  respect  to  some  stations,  we  shall 
be  compelled,  while  we  aim  at  precision,  to  employ 
round  numbers  in  many  instances. 

We  will  commence  with  Europe.  In  many  patts 
of  this  favored  division  of  the  globe,  the  light  of  the 
Gospel  has  been  long  enjoyed,  and  consequently  the 
field  of  missions  is  limited,  compared  with  other  por- 
tions of  the  world.  This  remark  would  lose  much 
of  its  force,  if  it  were  not  true  that  the  intolerance  of 
papal  superstition  prevents  the  propagation  of  the 
Gospel  among  millions  who  need  it  as  much  as  the 
heathen.  There  are  about  twenty  missionaries  era- 
ployed  in  Europe.  Their  spheres  of  labor  are  Tur- 
key, Greece,  and  the  islands  of  the   Mediterranean* 

Constantinople^  the  metropolis  of  Turkey,  is  the 
point  at  which  the  efforts  of  the  missionaries  in  these 
regions  have  been  chiefly  directed.  It  contains  a 
mingled  population  of  Turks,  Jews,  Armenians,  and 
Gxeeks  ;  amounting  to  six  hundred  thousand  souls. 
The  Church  Missionary  Society,  the  British  and  For- 
eign Bible  Society,  the  American  Board,  and  the  Jews 
Societies  have  their  respective  missionaries  in  this  city. 
The  obstacles  to  the  promotion  of  pure  Christianity, 
among  such  opposers  and  corrupters  of  the  truth,  can 
scarcely  be  overrated  ;  and  yet,  as  if  to  prove  the  al- 
mightiness,  as  well  as  the  sovereignty  of  divine  grace, 


MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT.  9 

the  arm  of  Jehovah  has  been  made  bare  in  this  region 
of  error  and  death.  A  spirit  of  earnest  inquiry  has 
been  enkindled  among  the  Jews,  which  has  resulted 
in  the  baptism  of  several  of  their  number.  Were 
it  not  for  the  bonds  and  imprisonment  which  await 
the  convicted  and  appal  the  inquiring,  there  is  rea- 
son to  believe  that  the  truth  would  produce  far 
greater  effects  than  at  present.  The  recent  accounts 
teem  with  interest  in  the  Armenian  department  of  la- 
bor. Some  of  the  highest  priests  have  most  unex- 
pectedly professsed  their  faith  in  the  essential  doctrines  . 
of  Christianity,  and  their  distrust  in  the  mummeries ' 
of  their  own  church.  Several  young  men  of  great 
promise  have  boldly  confessed  Christ,  and  joined  them- 
selves to  the  missionaries  in  their  animating  labors. 
The  youth  in  the  schools  have  caught  the  spirit  of  se- 
rious inquiry,  and  the  missionaries  say  of  them,  '•  I 
verily  believe  they  would  sit  for  hours  every  day,  with- 
out betraying  the  least  symptom  of  uneasiness,  and 
without  interposing  a  single  cavil,  to  hear  me  talk  to 
them  on  these  infinitely  important  subjects." 

In  Greece^  much  is  accomplished  through  the  in- 
fluence  of  Lancasterian  schools.  At  Athens,  at  Argos, 
and  at  Syra,  flourishing  schools  are  in  operation. 
The  missionaries  have  experienced  repeated  alterna- 
tions of  encouragement  and  trial  in  their  labors.  In 
his  last  communications.  Dr.  King  mentions  that  the 
government  and  people,  and  minister  of  the  inte- 
rior are  all  friendly.  The  chief  opposition  is  frpm^ 
the  Bishops,  though  he  thinks  their  influence  is 
limited.  The  introduction  of  the  scriptures  in  the 
schools,  and  the  distribution  of  thousands '  of  copies, 


10  MISSIONARY     ABSTRACT. 

both  of  the  testament  and  religious  tracts,  are  among- 
the  hopeful  incidents  of  their  mission. 

In  the  Ionian  Isles,  which  form  a  republic  under 
the  denomination  of  "  The  Seven  Islands,"  there  are 
one  hundred  and  thirty  schools,  with  nearly  five  thou- 
sand pupils.  Six  hundred  females  are  receiving  an 
education.  The  quarantine  restrictions  on  the  inter- 
course between  these  islands  and  the  adjacent  conti- 
nent, having  been  removed,  the  missionaries  have 
sent  for  large  supplies  of  Christian  books,  which  they 
hoped  to  distribute  in  Western  Greece. 

Malta,  an  important  island  under  the  English  flag, 
is  a  great  depot  of  books  for  the  different  languages 
of  the  surrounding  countries.  The  missionaries  of 
different  countries  and  societies  co-operate  here.  Nearly 
five  millions  of  pages  have  issued  from  the  teeming 
presses  in  this  island  in  one  year.  The  labors  of  the 
missionaries  arh  not  confined  to  this  department. 
They  have  established  several  very  important  and 
promising  schools. 

ASIA. 

In  the  continent  and  islands  of  Asia  there  are  about 
two  hundred  and  seventy  missionaries. 

''In  Western  and  Central  Asia,  missions  are  in 
existence  in  Beyroot,  on  Mount  Lebanon,  at  Jerusalem, 
Smyrna,  on  the  islands  of  Cyprus  and  Scio,  in  Broosa, 
in  the  ancient  Bithynia,  at  Trebizond  on  the  Black  sea, 
among  the  Nestorians  of  lake  Oormiah,  in  Persia,  in 
Bagdad,  in  the  ancient  Mesopotamia,  and  among  the 
German  settlers  near  the  Caucasus  in  ancient  Armenia. 
At  Beyroot,  with  its  commodious  harbor,  Jerusalem 
with  its  crowds  of  pilgrims,  and  Smyrna — all  centers 


MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT.  11 

of  influence — printing  presses  have  been  established 
for  the  Armenian,  Hebrew,  Spanish,  Arabic,  Modern 
Greek,  Persian,  Turkish,  and  other  tongues  spoken  in 
these  extensive  regions.  The  names  of  two  distin- 
guished converts,  Asaad  esh  Shidiak,  and  Gregory 
Wortabet,  are  associated  with  the  success  of  missions 
in  these  countries.  The  books  issued  from  the  de- 
pository of  the  American  mission  at  Smyrna,  from 
March  22d,  1834,  to  June  12th,  1835,  amounted  to  more 
than  twenty-six  thousand  copies.  The  schools  have 
been  carried  on  with  vigor.  The  extensive  regions 
of  Galatia,  Pontus,  Cappadocia,  Cilicia,  Phrygia,  and 
other  celebrated  provinces — formerly  the  garden  of  the 
world — are  fast  becoming  encircled  with  missionary 
out-posts."'* 

Northern  Asia.  The  London  Missionary  Society 
commenced  a  mission  in  Siberia  about  nineteen  years 
ago.  Until  within  the  last  year  or  two,  the  missiona- 
ries exerted  themselves  with  very  little  apparent  suc- 
cess. Recently  the  results  of  their  labor  have  appear- 
ed. Several  ignorant,  obstinate  nativ^es  have  been 
brought  to  bow  in  deep  humility  before  the  cross  of 
Christ,  and  to  receive  and  acknowledge  Him.  as  the 
only  Savior  of  sinners.  Three  missionaries  are  en- 
gaged at  this  station.  The  same  number  have  been 
employed  in  Central  Russia.  We  are  not  informed 
of  their  success,  although  from  the  accounts  of  the 
Rev.  J.  Gray,  one  of  their  number,  now  in  this  coun- 
try, and  connected  with  the  Dutch  Church,  there  have 
been  some  striking  conversions.     The  entire  Bible  has 

*  Boston  Recorder. 

2* 


12  MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT. 

been  translated  in  the  Mongolian  tongue,  which  is  the 
native  language  of  the  present  dynasty  of  China. 

For  notices  of  Eastern  Asia,  or  China,  and  the 
neighboring  countries,  we  would  refer  the  reader  to 
the  following  journal.  The  missionaries  have  recent- 
ly put  thousands  of  Christian  books  in  circulation  in 
Cliina. 

South  Eastern  Asia.  Missions  have  been  estab- 
lished at  Siam,  Singapore,  and  Malacca,  all  of  which 
are  introduced  in  the  present  volume. 

The  first  attempts  to  evangelize  Burinah  were  made 
by  the  English  Baptist  missionaries,  stationed  at  Sin- 
gapore, in  1807.  Some  of  the  brethren  of  this  con- 
nexion still  labor  in  Arracan,  a  province  ceded  by 
Burmah  to  the  English  ;  and  in  Chittagong,  a  neigh- 
boring district  in  South  Eastern  Bengal.  Their  ef- 
forts have  been  blessed  with  an  encouraging  measure 
of  divine  influence.  The  American  Baptist  Mission- 
aries commenced  their  operations  in  Burmah  in  1813. 
After  spending  six  years,  amidst  toils,  and  trials,  and 
persecutions,  without  scarcely  the  least  visible  success, 
they  had  the  happiness  to  receive  into  the  fold  of 
Christ  the  first  lost  sheep  of  this  flock.  Since  that 
era  their  labors  have  been  most  munificently  reward- 
ed. Hundreds  of  perishing  men  have  renouuced 
their  idols  and  their  sins,  and  submitted  themselves  to 
the  care  and  guidance  of  the  Savior.  At  present  they 
have  five  stations  and  three  out  stations,  supplied  by 
nine  missionaries,  four  male,  and  twelve  female  assist- 
ants, and  twenty-two  native  helpers.  Including  one 
hundred  and  sixty  foreigners,  chiefly  British  soldiers, 
they  number  six  hundred  converts. 


MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT.         '  13 

Southern  Asia.  Hindostan;  or  India  Proper,  con- 
tains a  population  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
millions  of  souls.  Upwards  of  one  hundred  millions 
are  British  subjects.  The  whole  field  is  accessible, 
and  inviting.  Nearly  twenty  societies  are  co-operating 
in  Hindostan  and  Ceylon.  The  number  of  missiona- 
ries in  this  extensiv^e  region  is  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty.  Within  a  few  years,  great  changes  have  taken 
place.  The  burning  of  widows  and  the  destruction 
of  infants  have  been,  to  a  great  extent,  abolished. 
Since  1820,  no  less  than  sixteen  native  newspapers 
have  been  commenced  in  Calcutta.  The  English 
language  is  becoming  exceedingly  popular  among  the 
natives,  and  in  process  of  time,  will  probably  super- 
sede their  own.  The  numbers  of  natives  who  are  re- 
ceiving an  education  in  this  language, — the  use  made 
of  it  as  a  colloquial  medium, — the  treasures  of  litera- 
ture which  it  contains, — and  the  prospect  of  substitu- 
ting, the  Roman  characters  for  those  they  employ,  are 
the  reasons  for  concludingf  that  the  Enolish  will  one 
day  become  the  language  of  the  country.  Evidences 
are  constantly  increasing  of  the  wane  and  approaching 
expiration  of  Hindooism.  It  is  impossible  to  notice  all 
the  stations  in  this  brief  survey.  In  some  places  the 
success  of  the  Gospel  has  been  extraordinary.  In 
Southern  India,  the  immortal  Schwartz  was  the  agent 
of  accomplishing  the  most  amazing  revolutions.  Re- 
cendy  the  Church  Missionary  Society  has  been  sig- 
nalized by  the  eminent  usefulness  of  its  missionaries. 
"  It  is  now  nearly  ten  years,"  is  the  language  of  one 
of  their  missionaries,  "  since  we  arrived  at  Palamcotta. 
When  we  came,  we  had  no  congregation  except  the 


14  MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT. 

people  of  our  household,  with  a  few  persons  of  the 
Tanjore  Mission,  and  no  Christian  schools,  but  six 
or  seven  heathen  schools  left  by  the  former  Chaplains, 
for  our  superintendence  ;  and  now  we  have  two  hun- 
dred and  forty  four  villages,  in  each  of  which  there  is 
a  number  of  Christian  families  and  about  seven  thou- 
sand five  hundred  souls  under  our  care."  The  last 
estimate  is  two  hundred  and  sixty  one  villages,  two 
thousand  two  hundred  eighty-nine  families,  eight  thou- 
sand one  hundred  thirty-eight  individuals ;  seminary — 
thirty-four  students,  eleven  of  whom  are  pious  ;  schools, 
forty-two  under  heathen  teachers,  with  fifteen  hundred 
scholars,  and  twenty-three  under  catechists  with  near- 
ly  three  hundred  pupils.  These  accounts  are  several 
years  old.  ''  So  mightily  grew  the  word  of  God  and 
prevailed." 

In  Ceylon  the  prosperity  of  the  various  missions 
has  redounded,  through  the  thanksgivings  of  many,  to 
the  glory  of  God.  Our  few  remarks  shall  be  limited 
to  the  American  mission,  although  other  societies  have 
been  greatly  cheered  in  their  exertions.  The  Ameri- 
can Board  commenced  their  operations  in  this  island 
in  1S16.  The  scene  of  their  labors  is  the  district  of 
Jaffna,  or  northern  extremity  of  the  island.  They 
occupy  seven  stations  and  two  or  three  out  stations. 
Besides  eleven  missionaries  and  sixteen  assistants, 
there  are  thirty-nine  native  laborers  employed  in  this 
field.  They  have  under  their  care  more  than  one 
hundred  and  twenty  free  schools,  in  which  upwards  of 
five  thousand  children  are  receiving  instruction.  They 
have  also  preparatory  day  schools,  female  boarding 
schools,  and  a  seminary  with  one  hundred  and  twenty 


MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT.  16 

Students,  in  which  the  sciences,  including  medicine 
and  theology,  are  taught.  In  these  institutions  seve- 
ral powerful  revivals  have  been  enjoyed.  The  eifu- 
sions  of  the  Holy  Spirit  have  not  been  limited  to  these 
scenes  of  learning.  More  than  two  hundred  natives 
had  been  added  to  the  church,  before  the  last  power- 
ful awakening  commenced.  We  have  no  definite  ac- 
counts of  the  recent  accession,  as  the  fruits  of  this 
precious  season  have  not  yet  been  all  gathered. 

INDIAN    ARCHIPELAGO. 

For  information  respecting  these  islands  we  would 
again  refer  to  the  ensuing  pages.  Two  or  three  mis- 
sionaries have  recently  sailed  for  Borneo  and  Sumatra. 

Australasia.  In  New  South  Wales  there  are  a 
few  missionaries  belont^^ino:  to  the  Church  and  Wes- 
leyan" societies.  The  same  societies  have  been  labor- 
ing, amid  most  remarkable  displays  of  divine  power, 
in  the'^island  of  New  Zealand.  The  character  of  the 
New  Zealanders  is  extremely  ferocious  and  sanguinary. 
They  are  cannibals  of  the  most  disgusting  description, 
A  i.^.y^  years  ago,  war  and  carnage  rendered  this  devo- 
ted spot, — the  very  suburbs  of  hell.  The  missiona- 
aries  commenced  their  efforts  with  difficulty,  and  con- 
tinued them  amid  repeated  and  appalling  trials.  They 
have  been  shocked,  since  their  arrival,  with  scenes  oi 
cruelty  at  which  humanity  tu^ns  pale.  "  Yesterday," 
writes  one  of  them,  ^'  they  shot  a  poor  girl  of  about 
ten  years  old  and  ate  her.  They  told  us  laughingly 
that  they  were  hungry,  and  that  they  killed  and  ate- 
her  with  some  sweet  potatoes."  But  recently  the 
scene  has  changed.  The  transforming  influence  of 
the  Gospel  has  been  so  wonderful,  that  infidelity  must 


16  MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT. 

Stand  aghast,  while  charity  weeps  for  joy.  A  few  ex- 
tracts from  recent  accounts  will  show  what  God  has 
wrought. 

"  In  the  direct  object  of  the  mission  mnch  more 
work  oifers  itself  than  the  missionaries  are  able  to  per- 
form. Scarcely  a  day  passes  without  their  preaching, 
and  many  persons  who  live  at  distant  places  earnestly 
request  visits  from  them,  if  it  were  only  for  a  few  days ; 
offering  tp  make  roads  on  purpose  for  them,  and  to 
afford  them  every  possible  facility.  But  a  short  time 
ago,  the  people  tabooed,  or  made  sacred  the  roads,  that 
the  missionaries  mig^ht  not  traverse  them,  and  declared 
the  rivers  sacred  to  prevent  them  from  crossing  them. 
The  natives  are  not  only  anxious  to  receive  religious 
instruction  :  but  they  wish  the  missionaries  to  make 
laws  for  them.  They  consult  them  as  casuists,  and 
they  seek  counsel  of  them  as  to  matters  of  peace  and 
war.  The  native  cruelty  is  diminishing.  War  is 
less  known.  Infanticide  is  likely  to  be  altogether 
abolished.  In  the  coarse  of  the  first  few  years  of  my 
residence  in  New  Zealand,  I  witnessed  six  different 
cases  of  infanticide.  I  have  seen  mothers  break  the 
necks  and  dash  out  the  brains  of  babes  who  hung  at 
their  breasts  ;  but  in  the  course  of  the  last  four  years, 
I  have  not  witnessed  one  case  of  the  kind.  Eight 
hundred  natives  have  been  taught  to  read  the  word 
of  God  for  themselves,  while  hundreds  more  are 
able  to  make  out  the  meaning,  though  not  so  as 
to  be  fully  intelligible  to  others.  When  I  mention 
that  three  hundred  New  Zealanders  have  embraced 
the  Gospel,  and  are  aiming  to  live  in  consistency  with 
its  sacred  recj^uirements,  I   am  sure  that  the  people  of 


MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT.  17 

God  will  rejoice.  I  haVe  attended  the  death  beds  of 
upwards  of  forty  natives,  and  have  witnessed  some  of 
those  scenes  of  holy  confidence  and  joy  which  are  so 
delightful  to  the  Christian." 

Speaking  of  occupying  a  new  station,  the  missiona- 
ry remarks,  "  Formerly  we  were  not  allowed  to  land 
at  that  place,  but  now  we  were  met  by  fifteen  hundred 
of  the  natives.  An  old  chisf  was  called  upon  by  his 
people  to  make  a  speech,  and  he  spoke  for  nearly  an 
hour.  '  The  missionaries,'  said  he,  '  are  come  to  blunt 
the  points  of  our  spears — to  snap  our  clubs  asunder— 
to  draw  the  bullets  out  of  our  muskets — to  bury  our 
bayonets— to  bring  this  tribe  and  that  together,  and  to 
make  them  all  live  in  peace.'  A  loud  shout  then 
burst  forth  from  the  whole  assembly,  '  We  will  have 
them — we  will  have  them.'  Such  have  been  the  dis- 
plays of  divine  grace  in  New  Zealand." 

Polynesia.  The  London,  Wesleyan  and  American 
societies  occupy  these  numerous  and  scattered  islands. 
Here  too  the  most  remarkable  revolutions  have  been 
accomplished  by  the  power  of  the  truth.  "  On  the 
10th  of  August,  1796,  twenty-nine  missionaries  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society  embarked  from  London 
for  this  and  the  neighboring  islands.  March  6,  1797, 
eighteen  landed  at  Tahiti ;  ten  at  Tongataboo,  in  the 
following  month  ;  the  other  at  St.  Christina,  in  the 
succeeding  June.  A  number  of  most  auspicious  cir- 
cumstances attended  this  commencement ;  and  the  re- 
port of  Capt.  Wilson,  upon  the  return  of  the  ship  Duff, 
elated  the  friends  of  the  mission  beyond  measure. 
But  the  triumph  was  soon  turned  into  lamentation. 
The  capture  by  the  French  of  the  Duff  in  her  second 


1.8  Missionary  abstract* 

voyage  to  the  South  Seas,  with  ten  married  and  nine- 
teen single  missionaries — the  report  of  the  departure 
of  eleven  of  the  number  that  were  at  Tahiti  for  Port 
Jackson,  on  account  of  the  ill-treatment  of  the  natives 
— the  murder  of  one  of  them  at  New  South  Wales— 
the  murder  of  three  others  at  Tongataboo,  and  other 
calamities  almost  overwhelmed  the  Societ^^j  and  threat- 
ened to  quench  the  missionary  zeal  of  the  religious 
public.  The  cause  of  the  South  Sea  islanders,  how- 
ever, was  not  relinquished.  The  directors  encouraged 
the  seven  missionaries  remaining  at  Tahiti  to  con- 
tinue, urged  those  that  were  at  Port  Jackson  to  re- 
turn, and  sent  out  twelve  more  to  assist  them.  In 
1810,  thirteen  years  after  they  first  reached  Tahiti, 
they  all,  with  the  exception  of  two,  left  the  islands  on 
account  of  the  wars  of  the  natives.  This  news  again 
afflicted  the  Society,  and  their  hopes  of  final  success 
were  almost  extinguished.  It  v/aS  a  time  of  great 
anxiety  and  much  prayer.  The  majority  of  the  So- 
ciety urged  the  missionaries  again  to  return  to  Tahiti 
as  soon  as  circumstances  would  allow  it.  They  did 
return,  and  now  the  sun  of  prosperity  dawned  and 
brightened  upon  them.  Several  of  the  missionaries 
had  become  quite  masters  of  the  language,  and  the 
saving  power  of  the  Spirit  accompanied  their  preach- 
ino-."*  The  kins:  Pomare  was  the  first  convert. 
Twenty-two  years  after  their  arrival,  the  surviving 
missionaries  had  the  gratification  of  receiving  him  to 
the  communion  of  the  Christian  church.  Others  were 
similarly  and  almost   simultaneously   affected.      And 

*  Missionary  Gazetteer. 


:&iISSIONARY    ABSTRACT.  19 

now  the  holy  flame  spread,  and  as  it  spread  the  idol 
temples  and  wooden  gods  were  speedily  consumed. 
Schools  were  instituted  ;  congregations  were  organi- 
zed ;  churches,  some  of  them  of  vast  dimensions,  were 
erected  and  even  auxiliary  missionary  societies  were 
formed. 

The  tidings  spread  to  the  neighboring  islands,  and 
even  to  the  distant  groups  of  islands.  The  effect  was 
electrical.  Without  ever  having  seen  a  missionary, 
several  islands,  incited  by  mere  report,  deliberately  re- 
nounced idolatry,  and  abjured  heathenism.  Succes- 
sive bands  of  missionaries  have  been  sent  forth,  and 
an  army  of  native  assistants  have  devoted  themselves 
^to  the  cause  of  missions.  The  work  of  evangelizing 
these  islands  has  advanced  with  amazing  rapidity. 
From  the  last  report  of  the  London  Missionary  So- 
ciety, they  have  stations  on  three  of  the  Georgian  isl- 
ands, five  of  the  Society,  six  of  the  Hervey,  and  seve- 
^•al  of  the  Austral,  Paumota,  Navigator's  and  Mar- 
<|uesas  groups. 

The  success  of  the  Wesley ans  at  the  Friendly  isl- 
ands is  almost  incredible.  In  one  year,  three  thou- 
sand three  hundred  and  twenty-nine  were  added  to 
church  fellowship.  More  than  one  hundred  na- 
tive missionaries  are  employed.  In  one  year,  sixteen 
thousand  eight  hundred  books  were  issued  from  the 
press.  Since  the  establishment  of  the  mission  nine 
years  ago,  about  ten  thousand  natives  have  embraced 
the  profession  of  Christianity  ;  of  whom  four  thousand 
four  hundred  are  communicants.  There  is  no  limit  to 
the  usefulness  of  the  mission,  but  the  physical 
strength  of  the  missionaries. 

3 


20  MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT, 

The  Sandwich  Islands.  This  mission  was  com- 
menced by  the  American  Board  in  1820.  Twenty- 
two  missionaries  arrived  in  July  of  that  year.  Before 
they  reached  the  islands,  the  natives  had  heard  the 
runior  from  the  Society  cluster — three  thousand  miles 
distant,  and  such  was  the  mighty  influence  of  this 
reiterated  report,  that  the  government  and  people  de- 
termined to  abandon  idolatry,  and  commit  their  images 
and  all  the  monuments  of  their  former  heathenism  to 
the  flames.  The  first  news  which  saluted  the  ears  of 
the  missionaries  on  their  arrival  was,  "  Tamahmaha  is 
dead — the  taboos  are  broken — the  idols  are  burnt — the 
morais  are  destroyed,  and  the  priesthood  abolished." 

The  labors  of  the  missionaries  so  auspiciously  com- 
menced have  resulted  in  the  most  favorable  changes, 
as  well  in  the  intellectual,  social  and  civil,  as  m  the 
religious  condition  of  the  islanders.  A  few  years  ago, 
about  one  third  of  the  whole  population  were  connect- 
ed with  the  schools — nine  hundred  of  the  natives 
were  employed  as  school-masters.  Lately  the  mission 
has  experienced  some  trying  reverses.  Most  of  the 
schools  formerly  under  the  instruction  of  native  teach- 
ers have  been  partially  or  wholly  suspended.  The 
want  of  sufficiently  qualified  teachers — those  formerly 
employed  being  themselves  but  children  in  knowledge 
— and  the  fact  that  the  authority  of  the  rulers,  which 
for  a  time  kept  the  schools  in  operation,  is  now  relax- 
ed, are  among  the  principal  reasons.  The  influence 
and  conduct  of  unprincipled  Europeans  has  been  a 
serious   disadvantage  to    the  Gospel  in  these  islands. 

At  present  the  missions  are  recovering  from  the 
shock — 2:ood  has  resulted  from  the  trial,  and  the  work 


MISSIONAKY    ABSTRACT.  21 

rs   advancing,   although  its  apparent   prosperity  has 
been  diminished. 

AFRICA. 

In  North  Africa^  attempts  have  been  made  to  estab- 
lish a  mission  in  Algiers,  but  hitherto  the  effort  has 
been  unsuccessful.  At  Tunis  a  missionary  is  labor- 
ing under  favorable  auspices — maintaining  discussions 
with  the  Jews,  and  distributing  Christian  books. 

In  Eastern  Africa^  there  are  several  missionaries  ; 
three  are  stationed  at  Cairo  and  its  vicinity — one  in 
Alexandria,  and  four,  including  two  artizans,  in  Abys- 
sinia. The  last  named  mission  was  commenced  in 
1831,  and  has  been  prosecuted  with  much  zeal  and 
success. 

The  London  Missionary  Society  have  missionaries 
in  Madagascar,  and  the  Mauritius.  The  number  of 
inhabitants  in  the  extensive  island  of  Madagascar  is 
estimated  at  four  millions.  Sunshine  and  storms  have 
succeeded  each  other  in  this  mission.  When  the  mis- 
sionaries have  enjoyed  unrestricted  liberty,  their  la- 
bors have  been  exceedingly  productive.  Such  has 
been  the  thirst  for  divine  knowledge,  that  the 
places  of  public  worship  have  been  thronged.  The 
ordinary  congregations  have  numbered  one  thousand 
souls  each,  which  has  been  increased  at  times  to  five 
thousand  worshipers.  A  large  number  have  been 
baptized,  and  many  of  the  converts  appear  remarkably 
enlightened  and  firm  in  their  profession  of  Chris- 
tianity. The  last  accounts  are  unfavorable.  The 
progress  and  prevalence  of  the  Gospel  have  alarmed 
or  rather  enraged  the  Queen  and  her  government,  and 
^he  napst  solemn  and  severe  edicts  against  Christianity 


22  MISSIONARY-   ABSTRAe'Ti 

have  been  issued.  The  reports  that  the  establishe 
customs  of  their  ancient  superstition  were  neglected, 
and  that  the  new  religion  was  subverting  the  whole 
system  of  paganism,  produced  the  greatest  sensation. 
A  national  assembly  was  held,  in  which  the  sovereign 
proclaimed  formally  to  a  prodigious  concourse  his  de- 
termination to  suppress  Christianity.  One  month  has 
been  given  to  the  people  to  come  forward  and  accuse 
themselves  of  whatever  they  had  done  in  compliance 
with  the  new  religion.  Punishments  of  various  kinds 
have  been  threatened  against  past,  as  well  as  future 
offenders.  How  far  "He  who  sitteth  in  the  heavens'" 
may  suffer  the  progress  of  his  cause  to  be  supended  in 
this  island,  we  do  not  know — its  ultimate  triumph  rests 
upon  His  irreversible  decree. 

South  Africa  is  one  of  the  most  favored  missionary 
fields  in  the  world.  Eighty  missionaries  belonging 
to  eleven  societies  are  co-operating  in  evangelizing 
the  numerous  tribes  of  the  southern  division  of  this 
continent.  Their  success  has  been  remarkable.  The 
United  Brethren  alone  report  upwards  of  three  thou- 
sand converts.  The  other  societies  have  been  sig- 
nally blessed.  Schools  are  numerous  and  flourishing. 
Many  wandering  tribes  have  been  induced  to  settle^, 
and  in  the  enjoyment  of  the  means  -  of  grace,  great 
numbers  have  been  converted.  The  civil  polity  and 
social  order  of  these  lawless  nomadic  bands  have  kept 
pace  with  their  spiritual  improvement.  The  anxiety 
of  many  of  their  chieftains  to  have  Christian  mission- 
aries settle  among  them,  proves  the  favor  as  well  as 
the  astonishing  success,  which  God  has  given  his 
^servants,  in  the  sight  of  these  degraded  heathen..    In 


srrsgto:t^ARY  abstract.  23^ 

one  or  two  instances  large  droves  of  cattle  have  been, 
proifered  for  the  services  of  the  missionaries.  South 
Africa  has  frequently  enjoyed  the  reviving  eifusions  of 
God's  Spirit.  Some  of  the  most  sanguinary  and  des- 
perate marauders  have  been  transformed  into  the 
meek  and  unresisting  disciples  of  Christ. 

The  celebrated  Africaner  stands  pre-eminent  among 
these  trophies  of  saving  grace.  He  had  been  such  a 
terror  to  the  colony,  that  a  thousand  dollars  were  of- 
fered to  any  man  who  would  shoot  him.  "  When  Mr. 
Campbell  crossed  Africa  in  his  first  journey,  he  was 
more  alarmed  with  the  idea  of  meeting  Africaner  than 
with  all  the  other  dangers  to  which  he  was  exposed." 
The  change  in  this  man  was  total,  and  proved  itself 
genuine,  by  an  entire  consistency  in  his  subsequent 
life.  We  have  no  time  to  enter  into  details,  upon  the 
prosperity  of  these  missions.  Two  or  three  general 
foots  speak  volumes.  The  Christian  sabbath  has  been 
established  by  three  of  the  Caffree  chiefs  in  their  ex- 
tensive tribes.  The  Hottento.ts,  who  were  once  class- 
ed with  the  ouran  outang,  have  their  infant  schools, 
saving  banks,  lending  libraries,  and  temperance  socie- 
ties. At  Lattakoo,  the  most  remote  station  from  the 
Cape,  belonging  to  the  London  Society,  where  the 
missionary  lingered  long  in  hope,  almost  against  hope, 
"the  voice  of  prayer  at  morning,  evening  and  mid- 
night has  been  frequently  heard  in  every  direction 
from  the  habitations  of  the  natives  or  the  bushes 
whither  they  have  retired  for  the  purpose  of  devotion. 
The  prayer  meeting  is  crowded  to  excess — civilization 
and  industry  are  advancing — the  wilderness  is  gladv- 
dened," 

3* 


M:  MISSIONARY    ABST* HaCT. 

W^6dtern  Africa.     "Missions  or  colonies  are  estab^ 
lished  at  Sierra  Leone,  on  some  islands  in  the  river 
Gambia,  at  six  or  eight  places  in  the  colony  of  Libe* 
ria,  and  at  Cape  Palmas.     The  number  of  communi- 
cants at   the  church   missions  in   Siera  Leone  is  be- 
tween four  and  five  hundred.    Three  thousand  attend 
on   public  worship,— twelve  hundred  children   have 
been  gathered  into  their  schools.     The  Divine  favor 
in  an  increasing  degree,  appears  to  be  vouchsafed  to 
the  missionaries.     With  difficulties  arising  from  the 
climate,  and  the  state  of  societ}^,  they  still  press  for- 
ward.    The  Wesleyans   have   penetrated  three  hun- 
dred miles  up  the    Gambia,    and  have   established   a 
mission  in   the  center  of  the   Mandingo  and  Foulah 
tribes.     They  number  eight  hundred  members  in  their 
society.     The  churches  in   Liberia  are   in  a  flourish- 
ing state.     In  the  course  of  a  single  month  five  hun« 
dred  and  three  persons  pledged  themselves  to  total  ab- 
stinence from  the  use  or  sale  of  intoxicating  liquors  } 
and  the  sight  of  it  is  rare.     The  Colonists  have  been 
convinced  of  the  importance  of  agriculture,  and  the 
prejudice  in  favor  of  trade   is  abating.      The  hSabbath 
is  universally  regarded.     Successful  efibrts  have  been 
made  to  promote  the  health  of  the  colonists.     The 
towns  have   been  incorporated.     The  newspaper  ex- 
hibits increasing  spirit  and  intelligence.     The  Mary- 
land colonies  are  flourishing.     Mr.  Wilson,  the  mis- 
sionary, thinks  that  the  influence   of  the  colon}^  will 
be  favorable  on  the  surrounding  tribes.     Energetic 
measures  are  in  operation  for  the  restoration  of  the 
Philadelphia  and  New  York  colony  at  Basse  Cove."* 

*  Boston  Recorder/ 


MlSSKlfifAftf'  AfeSTftACT/  25 

AMERICA. 

Iti  i^outh  America  the  London  Missionary  Society 
have  eight  missionaries  and  one  assistant.  Their  sta- 
tions are  at  Demararaj  Esseqiiebo,  and  Berbice.  The 
Wesleyans  have  four  stations  at  Demarara.  Their 
labors  are  principally  among  the  slaves^  several  thou 
sands  of  whom  have  been  gathered  into  the  church. 

At  Surinam  the  Moravians  have  seven  or  eight  mis- 
sionaries and  several  assistants.  Three  thousand  souls 
have  been  brought  into  the  liberty  of  God's  children 
through  their  instrumentality.  This  is  their  present 
number  of  converts  ;  how  many  more  have  passed  in- 
to glory  we  are  not  informed. 

The  slaves  af  the  West  Indies  have  powerfully  ex- 
oited  the  compassion  of  the  Christian  church.  They 
have  received  more  attention  than  any  other  heathen 
population  upon  earth.  About  one  hundred  and  My 
Protestant  missionaries  have  been  allotted  by  different 
denominations  of  Christians  to  three  millions  of  souls. 
Their  success  has  been  highly  encouraging.  Thou- 
sands have  been  taught  in  the  schools,  and  tens  of: 
thousands  gathered  within  the  pale  of  the  Christian 
church.  The  English  Baptists  have  nearly  ten  thou- 
sand members  in  their  churches,  and  the  Wesleyans 
Upwards  of  thirty  thousand.  The  Moravians  com- 
menced their  operations  in  these  islands.  Their  suc- 
cess has  corresponded  with  their  patient  and  perseve- 
ring industry.  About  thirty-five  thousand  souls  are 
now  embraced  within  the  communion  of  their  church. 
The  condition  of  a  slave  population  is  such  as  not  to 
ftdmit  of  the  same  striking  results  which  the  gospel 
produces  in  a  free  community.      Unaccustomed  to 


m 


MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT. 


mental  exertion,  with  no  pecuniary  resources,  ancF 
without  the  command  of  their  own  time,  they  can  nei- 
ttier  be  employed  as  preachers,. or  teachers,  or  promo- 
ters of  Christianity,  except   to  a  very  hmited  extent. 

Among  the  Indians,  or  Aborigines  in  the  United 
States  and  Canada,  there  are  about  seventy  or  eighty 
missionaries,  and  a  good  proportion  of  teachers.  The 
work  has  been  carried  on  amid  many  obstacles, 
though  with  consider-able  success.  The  habits  of  these 
wild  and  wandering  tribes, — their  extravagant  passion 
for.  ardent  spirits, — the  revengeful  and  unforgiving 
cruelty  of  their  dispositions, — and  the  treatment  they 
have  received  from  unprincipled  traders,  have  all  com- 
bined to  perpetuate  their  moral  degradation.  The 
American  Board  have  about  one  thousand  members  in 
tlie  churches  of  their  various  missions.  Other  socie- 
ties have  also  been  greatly  rewarded  for  their  labor  of 
love  among  them.  The  American  Methodist  Mission- 
ary Society,  have  about  seven  or  eight  thousand  In- 
dians belonging  to  the  communion  of  their  church,  in 
the  United  States  and  Upper  Canada.  The  American 
Baptists  and  United  Brethren  have  each  of  them  a  few 
hundred  Indian  members  connected  with  their  socie- 
ties. The  establishment  of  schools  among"  them  has 
resulted  in  much  good.  Among  the  fairest  specimens 
of  piety  upon  earth,  have  been  some  of  these  children 
of  the  forest. 

One  of  the  most  appalling  spheres  of  missionary  toil 
in  the  world,  is  the  inhospitable  region  of  Greenland 
and  Labrador.  The  intrepid  Moravians  selected  these 
countries  for  the  exercise  of  their  first  Christian  zeal. 
The  hardships  to  which  these  self-sacrificing  men  have 


MISSIONARY    ABSTRACT.  27 

tieen  voluntarily  exposed,  recall  forcibly  the  Apostle's 
enumeration  of  his  own  trials,  "  in  weariness  and 
painfulness,  in  watchings  often,  in  hunger  and  thirst, 
in  fastings  often,  in  cold  and  nakedness," 

Three  missionaries  arrived  in  Greenland  in  1733. 
They  labored  six  years  without  any  apparent  success. 
A  remarkable  change  then  took  place  in  their  mode 
of  preaching,  and  the  result  was  powerful  and  almost 
immediate.  Their  first  convert,  who  had  been  pecul- 
iarly depraved,  related  his  experience  at  one  of  their 
meetings  in  the  following  language  : — "  Brethren,  I 
h^ve  been  a  heathen,  and  grown  old  among  them  ; 
therefore  I  know  very  well  how  it  is  with  the  heathen^ 
and  how  they  think.  A. preacher  once  came  to  us  de- 
siring to  instruct  us,  and  began  by  proving  to  us  that 
there  was  a  God,— on  which  we  said  to  him — '  Well, 
dost  thou  think  we  are  ignorant  of  that  ?  Now  go  back 
to  the  place  from  whence  thou  camest.'  Then  again 
another  preacher  came,  and  began  to  instruct  us,  say- 
ing— '  You  must  not  steal,  nor  drink  too  much,  nor 
lie,  nor  lead  wicked  lives.'  We  answered  him — ■•  Fool 
that  thou  art !  Dost  thou  think  we  do  not  know  that  P 
Thus  we  sent  him  away  also.  Some  time  after  this, . 
Christian  Henry,  one  of  the  brethren,  came  to  me  in 
my  hut,  and  sat  down  by  me.  The  contents  of  his. 
discourse  to  me  were  nearly  these  r  '  I  come  to  thee  in. 
the  name  of  the  Lord  of  heaven  and  earth  ;  he  sends 
me  to  acquaint  thee,  that  he  would  gladly  save  thee 
and  make  thee  happy,  and  deliver  thee  from  the  mis~- 
erable  state  in  which  thou  liest  at  present.  To  this 
end  he  became  a  man,  gave  his  life  a  ransom  for  man, . 
and  gave  his  blood  for.  miin.     All  who  believe  in  the 


28 


MiSSIONAHY    ABSTRACT. 


name  of  this  Jesus  obtain  the  forgiveness  of  sin  ;  to 
all  them  that  reeeivo  him  by  faith,  he  giveth  power  to 
become  sons  of  God.  The  Holy  Spirit  dwelleth  in 
their  hearts,  and  they  are  made  free  through  the  blood 
of  Cliristj  from  the  slavery  and  dominion  of  sin.  And 
though  thou  art  t'je  chief  of  sinners,  yet  if  thou  pray- 
est  to  the  Father  in  his  name,  and  believest  in  him  as 
a  sacrifice  for  thy  sins,  thou  shalt  be  heard  and  saved  ; 
and  he  will  give  thee  a  crown  of  life,  and  thou  shalt 
live  vx^ith  him  in  heaven  for  evetJ  When  he  finished 
his  discourse,  he  lay  down  upon  a  board  in  my  hut 
and  Mi  into  a  sound  sleep.  I  thought  within  mystilf, 
what  m.anner  of  man  is  this  ?  There  he  lies  and  sleeps 
so  sweetly.  I  might  kill  him,  and  throw  him  out  in- 
to the  forest,  and  who  would  regard  it  ?  But  he  is  un- 
Goncerned.  This  cannot  be  a  bad  man, — he  fears  no 
evil:  not  even  from  us,  who  are  so  savage.  However 
I  could  not  forget  his  words.  They  constantly  recur- 
red to  my  mind  ;  even  though  I  went  to  sleep,  yet  I 
dreamed  of  the  blood  which  Christ  had  shed  for 
us.  I  thought  this  very  strange,  and  quite  different 
from  what  I  had  ever  heard.  So  I  went  and  inter- 
preted Christian  Henry's  words  to  the  other  Indians." 
As  the  result  of  the  preaching  of  the  cross,  an  exten- 
sive awakening  took  place. 

The  mission  in  Labrador  was  commenced  about 
twenty  years  subsequent  to  that  in  Greenland.  The 
history  of  the  two  are  similar.  Amid  many  priva- 
tions and  severe  trials,  the  word  of  God  has  had  free 
course,  and  been  glorified.  Repeated  revivals  have 
rewarded  and  encouraged  the  missionaries.  In  the 
two  places  there  are  seven  or  eight  stations,  and  about 


HISSIOKARY    ABSTRACT.  29 

My  laborers.    The  number  of  converts  is  nearly  three 
thousand. 

From  this  hasty  glance  at  the  great  missionary  field, 
we  cannot  but  be  impressed  with  the  infinite  impor- 
tance of  preaching  the  gospel  to  the  heathen.  The 
condition  of  the  unevangelized  world  appeals  loudly 
to  our  Christian  sympathies.  Involved  alike  in  the 
ruins  of  the  general  apostasy, — hastening  to  the  same 
interminable  and  changeless  destiny,  and  with  no  other 
possibility  of  recovery  than  faith  in  a  profiered  Sav- 
ior, the  various  nations  and  tribes  of  unchristianized 
men  can  be  regarded  with  indifference  only  where  the 
love  and  pity  of  the  Redeemer  have  no  influence.  To 
detail  the  present  wretchedness,  and  dwell  upon  the 
prospective  miseries  of  the  heathen  world,  would  be 
extremely  useful  if  our  space  would  permit.  We 
would  beg  every  Christian,  as  an  indispensable  part  of 
his  duty, — as  a  fundamental  evidence  of  his  attach- 
ment to  his  Savior,  to  read  the  many  publications 
which  abound  and  are  daily  increasing  on  this  subject, 
"  The  Missionary  Gazeteer," — •'  The  origin  and  histo- 
ry of  missions,"  and  the  various  cheap  periodicals, — 
such  as  "  The  Missionary  Herald,"  are  most  earnestly 
recommended  to  the  careful  perusal  of  every  Chris- 
tian. While  they  find  much  to  excite  their  compas- 
sion and  melt  their  hearts,  they  will  be  encouraged  by 
the  success  of  missions,  to  believe  that  the  world  can 
and  shall  be  converted. 

Although  comparatively  very  little  has  been  at- 
tempted,— notwithstanding  there  are  only  about  six 
hundred  stations  and  seven  hundred  missionaries  in 
?ll  the  world.— of  whom  nearly  two  hundred  and  fifty 


30  MISSIONAR"^    ABSTRACT. 

are  laboring  among  the  slaves  of  the  West  Indies,-^ 
yet  the  work  which  has  been  accomplished,  and  the 
sources  of  permanent  and  efficient  influence  which 
have  been  created  are  incalculable.  Languages  have 
been  acquired;  and  even  improved ;  literature  has  been 
studied,  and,  where  deficient,  created.  Dictionaries  have 
been  compiled, — elementary  works  composed, — and 
many  of  the  best  writings  translated  into  heathen 
tongues. 

About  fifty  presses  are  pouring  their  streams  of  life 
into  this  parched  and  barren  field.  More  than  one 
thousand  native  assistants,  having  first  given  them- 
selves to  Christ,  have  consecrated  their  Uves  to  this 
blessed  work.  The  "  gospel  of  salvation"  has  been 
translated  into  one  hundred  and  fifty  languages. 
Thousands  of  schools, — some  of  them  for  the  higher 
branches  of  education, — are  sending  their  rays  of 
knowledge  and  life  amid  the  darkness  and  superstition 
of  heathenism.  More  than  one  hundred  thousand  souls 
have  been  gathered  into  the  pale  of  the  visible  church. 
The  preparatory  work  having  been  accomplished  in 
many  of  the  most  important  countries  in  the  world, — 
the  progress  of  missions  must  receive  an  increasing 
momentum,  as  the  time  of  promise  advances,  until  the 
last  heathen  temple  has  crumbled,  and  the  last  igno- 
rant and  cheerless  pagan  been  transformed  into  an  in- 
telligent and  a  happy  child  of  God. 


CHAPTER  I. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  NEW  YORK — PASSAGE—INDIAN 
ARCHIPELAGO. 

An  extraordinary  event  introduced  the  Rev.  E.  0. 
Bridgman  and  myself  to  each  other's  acquaintance, 
and  united  us  in  the  dehghtful  duty  of  "  bearing  the 
name  of  Jesus  before  the  Gentiles,"  A  gentleman, 
whose  character  needs  no  eulogium,*  had  a  ship  on 
the  eve  of  sailing  for  Canton.  He  himself  had  resi« 
ded  several  years  in  that  distant  mart  of  commerce, 
and  had  there  formed  an  endearing  friendship  with  Dr. 
Morrison.  Touched  with  the  moral  degradation  of 
that  empire,  he  had  resolved,  and  I  believe  promised 
the  Doctor  to  employ  his  influence  in  engaging  fellow 
laborers  for  this  neglected  field.  About  a  fortnight 
before  the  vessel  sailed,  he  proffered  a  passage,  and  a 
year's  residence  in  his  commercial  establishment,  to 
any  missionary,  who  would  devote  his  life  to  the  spir- 
itual benefit  of  China.  This  proffer  was  made  in  the 
presence  of  several  gentlemen.  One  of  them  proceeded 
or  wrote  to  Andover.  Another  conveyed  the  informa- 
tion to  myself  I  had  previously  resolved  to  spend  my 
days  in  Palestine  and  the  neighboring  countries ;  but 

*D.  W.  C.  Oliphant,  Esq. 

4 


32         DEPARTURE  FROM  NEW  YORK, 

at  the  time  appointed  to  fulfil  this  purpose,  my  health 
failed,  and  I  was  obliged  to  seek  its  restoration  in  a 
tropical  climate.  After  a  residence  of  nine  months  in 
the  West  Indies,  I  returned  to  New  York,  and  in  a 
few  weeks  heard  of  this  opportunity  for  usefulness. 
There  was  no  insuperable  obstacle  to  my  compliance. 
The  work  accorded  well  with  my  best  feelings — the 
change  of  destination  was  rather  agreeable  than  other- 
wise, as  it  intimated  the  will  of  God,  in  opposition  to 
my  own — I  knew  of  no  other  minister  in  the  city, 
whose  previous  convictions  and  present  circumstan- 
ces were  so  peculiarly  favorable  to  such  an  underta- 
king. And  although  I  was  aware  there  were  heathen 
enough  at  home^  and  though  I  was  obliged  to  tear 
myself  away  from  a  growing  church  in  the  city,  yet 
I  felt  it  my  duty  to  accept  the  providential  invitation. 
There  were  many  to  take  my  place  here.  I  knew 
of  none  other  who  could  and  would  go.  The  gentle- 
man's proffer  was  limited  to  one  missionary.  As  was 
mentioned,  it  was  proposed  to  Mr.  Bridgman  and  my- 
self, by  persons  who  were  ignorant  of  each  other's  en* 
deavor  to  obtain  the  desired  individual.  We  after- 
wards ascertained  that  the  application  was  made  to 
both  on  the  same  day.  Though  we  were  several  hun- 
dreds of  miles  distant  from  each  other,  we  resolved 
about  the  same  time  to  undertake  the  service,  and  hav- 
ing gone  into  the  country  to  consult  with  my  parents, 
we  arrived  in  New  York  nearly  together,  to  make  the 
necessary  arrangements.  The  Seamen's  Friend  Society 
had  requested  that  the  missionary  should  act  as  their 
chaplain  for  the  first  year.  I  went  to  their  office  to 
signify  my  willingness  to  comply  with  their  request. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  NEW  YORK.         33 

A  Stranger  had  just  preceded  me.  This  stranger  had 
come  for  the  same  purpose.  Unacquainted  with  each 
other  and  each  other's  ohject,  we  spoke  of  the  same 
event,  and  announced  the  same  determination.  The 
surprise  was  mutual ;  but  it  soon  yielded  to  a  grateful 
recognition  of  the  hand  of  God  in  the  circumstance. 
The  owner  of  the  ship,  and  all  interested  in  the  pro-, 
ject,  agreed  that  both  should  go,  and  both  went  It 
may  be  useful  to  laymen,  and  especially  those  engaged 
in  foreign  commerce,  to  remember  that  the  American 
Mission  to  China  was  commenced  by  the  instrumental- 
ity of  one  of  their  own  number.  And  it  will  stimulate 
every  Christian  to  perceive  how  the  Lord  repays  to  us 
double  our  feeble  attempts  to  serve  him. 

The  time  for  preparation  was  exceedingly  limited. 
In  a  series  of  public  services,  we  were  aifectionately  "  re- 
commended by  the  brethren  unto  the  grace  of  God," 
and  the  14th  of  Oct.  1829,  was  fixed  as  the  day  of  . 
embarkation.  A  company  of  relatives  and  Christian 
friends  attended  us  to  the  ship,  and  once  more  com- 
mitted us  to  the  guardianship  and  guidance  of  Him 
who  had  engaged  to  be  with  us  alway. 

The  Roman,  which  was  to  convey  us  to  our  desti- 
nation, is  one  of  the  largest  class  of  American,  merchant- 
men— her  accommodations  were  ample,  and  provisions 
choice  and  abundant.  Captain  Lavender  had  appro- 
ved himself  a  competent,  intelligent,  and  attentive  ofR^ 
cer — which  character  he  sustained  to  entire  satisfac- 
tion throughout  the  passage, — and  four  gentlemen,  citi- 
zens of  NewYork,  were  our  fellow-passengers. 

Oiir  friends  having  returned  to  shore,  we  weighed 


34  PASSAGE. 

anchor,  and  attempted  to  get  to  sea.  After  toiling 
long-  and  fruitlessly,  we  were  obliged  to  resume  our 
former  position.  The  second  morning  a  similar  ef- 
fort was  made ;  but  the  winds  and  waves  were  equal- 
ly unpropitious,  and  the  same  result  followed.  The 
sight  of  New  York  kept  on  the  rack  those  painful  emo- 
tionsj  which  had  been  awakened  by  leaving  all  whom 
we  loved  on  earth.  To  the  Missionary,  perhaps  exclu- 
sively, is  the  separation  from  friends  like  the  farewell  of 
death.  Though  ignorant  of  the  future,  he  expects  no 
farther  personal  intercourse  on  earth.  To  him  the 
next  meeting  is  generally  beyond  the  grave. 

Early  on  Friday  morning,  we  left  our  anchorage, 
and  with  a  light,  though  favorable  breeze,  stood  to  sea. 
The  wind  freshened  as  we  advanced,  and  between 
eight  and  nine  o'clock,  the  return  of  the  pilot  present- 
ed the  last  opportuniny  of  communicating  with  shore. 

During  the  greater  part  of  the  passage,  nothing  oc* 
curred  which  is  not  generally  witnessed,  and  has  not 
been  frequently  detailed.  Divine  service  was  early 
commenced  on  the  morning  and  afternoon  of  the 
Lord's  day,  and  social  worship  every  evening  at  the 
change  of  the  watch.  As  no  compulsory  measures 
were  employed  to  gain  the  attendance  of  the  crew, 
composed  of  a.  heterogeneous  company,  the  number 
of  worshipers  varied  with  their  fickle  inclination^. 
Nothing  proved  so  effectual  in  bringing  them  together, 
as  frequent  visits  to  the  forecastle,  and  more  private 
interviews  with  them,  when  disengaged  in  their  night 
watch  upon  deck. 

Nearly  three  months  elapsed  on  our  passage,  before 
we  enjoyed  a  sight  of  land.     The  first  stable  object 


PASSAGE.  35 

which  changed  for  a  moment  our  wearisome  pros- 
pect, was  the  small  island  of  St.  Paul.  It  is  remark- 
able for  a  pond,  which  furnishes  to  the  voyager,  a 
well  stored  larder,  and  a  self-cooking  kitchen.  Fish 
which  are  taken  in  abundance  and  variety,  may  be 
thrown  from  the  hook  into  boiling  springs,  and  thus 
prepared  for  the  table,  without  trouble  or  expense. 
The  immense  distance  of  this  rocky  islet  and  its  sister 
Amsterdam  from  any  continent,  is  another  peculiarity. 

On  the  25th  of  January^  Sandal-wood  island,  the  first 
land  made  in  the  eastern  passage,  was  descried.  Be- 
fore its  highest  hills  were  visible,  its  proximity  was  in- 
dicated by  large  land  birds,  resembling  eagles,  majes- 
tically sailing  in  the  air,  above  us  ;  and  butterflies,  or 
winged  grasshoppers,  which  borne  on  the  breeze,  came 
and  lighted  upon  the  ship.  The  island  is  extensive, 
and  produces  many  valuable  articles,  though  very  lit- 
tle is  known  of  the  physical,  political,  or  moral  condi- 
tion of  its  inhabitants.  No  attempts  have  been  made, 
by  Protestant  Christians,  for  its  conversion ;  none  to 
discover  whether,  with  its  populous  neighbors,  it  is  not 
waiting  for  God's  law. 

That  the  feasibility  of  establishing  missions  upon 
some,  or  all  of  these  islands,  might  be  readily  tested,  is 
evident  to  those  who  have  sailed  almost  within  hail  of 
their  shores,  and  whose  timidity,  or  want  of  zeal,  does 
not  control  a  laudable  spirit  of  Christian  enterprise. 
Our  course  was  through  the  Ombay  passage,  and  af- 
forded a  view  of  the  islands  of  Flores,  Solor,  Lom- 
blem,  Panter  and  Ombay,  on  the  left,  and  of  Timor, 
Cambing,  Baby,  and  probably  Wetter,  on  the  right. 
As  may  be  readily  supposed,  the  greater  part  of  our 

4* 


36  PASSAGE. 

time  was  consumed  in  feasting  the  eyes  upon  the 
cheering  and  changing  aspects  of  land,  and  in  suf- 
fering the  imagination  to  expatiate,  where  it  would 
be  more  interesting,  and  probably  more  hazardous  to 
roam  in  person.  Since  it  was  not  our  object  to  land, 
we  were  by  no  means  grieved  to  enjoy  the  coolness 
and  impetus  of  a  fresh  breeze,  and  soon  to  leave  these 
smiling  spots  to  charm  the  hearts  and  eyes  of  our  suc- 
cessors. Numerous  huts  can  be  distinguished  on  the 
hills  of  many  of  these  islands.  One  of  our  passengers, 
on  a  previous  voyage,  was  becalmed  a  day  and  night, 
within  a  short  distance  of  Ombay.  In  addition  to  the 
dwellings  he  could  discern  by  day,  fires,  probably  for 
cooking,  were  lighted  in  the  evening,  which,  bespang- 
ling the  shores  and  hills  of  this  and  the  adjacent  islands, 
indicated  a  considerable  population. 

How  far  the  Catholics  succeeded  in  their  early  at- 
tempts to  diffuse  their  faith  through  this  part  of  the 
Archipelago,  or  to  what  extent  the  trophies  of  their 
ancient  zeal  may  still  exist,  where  commerce  has  ceas- 
ed to  allure  the  European  trader,  it  is  quite  impossi- 
ble to  determine. 

The  Portuguese  were  probably  the  first  who  at- 
tempted the  conversion  of  these  islands  to  nominal 
Christianity.  They  took  possession  of  the  colonies  as 
early  as  1510,  or  soon  after,  and  commenced  at  the 
some  time  their  religious  operations  ;  but  there  is  rea- 
son to  believe,  from  authentic  records,  and  existing 
facts,  that  their  success  was  by  no  means  answerable 
to  the  latitude  of  faith  and  practice  generally  admit- 
ted in  their  proselyting  policy.  Before  the  middle  of 
the  sixteenth  century,  the  celebrated  Xavier  and  his 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO.  3T 

coadjators  arrived  in  these  regions,  and  displayed,  ac- 
cording to  the  saint's  biogapher,  those  wonders  of  su- 
perhuman wisdom  and  power,  by  which,  thousands 
were  forthwith  converted  to  the  true  faith.  Near  the 
close  of  the  century,  the  Dutch  dispossessed  the  Por- 
tuguese, and  soon  afterwards  introduced  Protestant- 
ism among  the  natives.* 

It  is  said  that  ''one  principal  purpose  of  the  form- 
ation of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company,  was  the  prop- 
agation of  Christianity  in  those  countries,  which 
should  come  under  their  dominion."  Had  the  same 
purpose  actuated  the  foreign  agents  of  the  company, 
and  all  the  early  chaplains  of  the  establishment,  as  it 
did  many  of  them,  the  genuine  conversion  of  these 
lovely  and  populous  islands  had  probably  been  the 
result.  The  natives  were  not  simply  willing,  but  re- 
ally desirous  to  become  acquainted  with  the  religion 
professed  by  the  Dutch.  They  even  solicited  teach- 
ers, and  when  their  request  was  granted,  submitted  to 
their  instructors,  with  the  greatest  docility  and  confi- 
dence. 

In  looking  over  the  records  of  these  times,  we  are 
struck  with  a  number  of  rather  opposing  facts,  and 
scarcely  know  whether  to  give  flow  to  our  feelings  of 
admiration  at  the  zeal  and  energy  of  some  of  the  first 
chaplains  ;  or  of  deep  regret  at  their  injudicious  plans, 
and  the  comparative  fruitlessness  of  their  vast  labors. 
They  studied  and  wrote  ;  they  traveled  and  preach- 
ed ;  they  founded  churches  and  opened  schools — such 


*  The  information  contained  in  the  following  pages  is  derircd  from 
the  history  of  missions,  and  missionary  reports  in  the  Dutch  lan- 
guage. 


38  INDIAK  ARHIPELAGO. 

were  the  variety  and  multiplicity  of  their  measures  ; 
such  the  magnitude  and  success  of  their  efforts,  that 
according  to  their  reports,  the  devils,  the  only  ac- 
knowledged deities  of  these  regions,  soon  found  their 
temples  deserted ;  their  rites  neglected  ;  and  whole 
villages  and  islands  alienated  from  their  allegiance. 
At  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  forty  thousand 
natives  had  enrolled  themselves  among  the  disciples 
of  the  Savior.*  But  here  we  are  compelled  to  check 
our  admiration,  by  a  knowledge  of  the  result.  A  de- 
clension soon  commenced,  and  continued  with  such 
rapidity,  that  whole  districts  speedily  relapsed  into 
their  former  abominations.  The  causes  of  this  de- 
cline, or  rather  of  the  apparent  conversion  of  such 
numbers,  who  afterwards  apostatized,  are  various. 
Many  of  the  chaplains  opposed,  in  spirit  and  conduct, 
their  worthy  coadjutors ;  too  much  stress  was  laid  up- 
on a  knowledge  of  the  technicalities,  or  a  compliance 
with  the  formalities  of  Christianity,  too  little  upon  the 
renovation  of  the  heart ;  professing  Christians  were 
preferred  to  their  heathen  neighbors  in  the  distribu- 
tion of  petty  offices  under  governments,  and  even  a 
monthly  allowance  of  rice  was  served  out  to  those, 
and  those  only,  who  had  received  the  rite  of  baptism. 
During  the  eighteenth  century,  we  read  of  very  few 
attempts  to  revive  the  spirit  of  Christianity,  or  even  to 
preserve  from  a  hastening  extinction  "  that  which  re- 
mained, and  was  ready  to  die."  Many  of  the  schools 
were  kept  up,  and  other  means  previously  established 

*  I  have  not  been  able  to  ascertain  the  population  of  the  islands  at 
this  time. 


INDIAN  AttCHlPELAGO.  30 

continued  ;  but  the  labor  devolved  principally  .upon 
the  natives,  and  their  qualifications  were  inadequate  to 
the  work ;  the  churches  at  home  vrere  languishing, 
and  the  few  messengers  sent  out,  took  little  or  no  in- 
terest in  the  instruction  of  the  heathen.  To  determine 
what  amount  of  good  was  really  effected  by  these  ear* 
ly  missionary  efforts,  requires  a  new  series  of  data,  ve- 
ry different  from  the  contradictory  reports  of  the  times, 
or  the  opposing  sentiments  of  later  commentators.  That 
many  were  translated  out  of  darkness  into  light,  who 
would  hesitate  to  believe  ?  that  thousands  were  self- 
deluded,  or  deceived,  who  could  deny  1  When  we 
consider  what  evidently  might  have  been  effected,  and 
what  was  no  doubt  the  aim  of  the  devoted  men  of 
whom  we  have  spoken,  we  are  grieved  at  the  conse- 
quences. For  more  than  two  hundred  years  this  des- 
ert might  have  bloomed,  like  the  garden  of  the  Lord, 
and  loaded  with  its  fragrance  every  breeze  which  re- 
freshes the  vast  continent  and  islands  of  south-eastern 
Asia. 

These  few  historical  facts  bring  us  down  to  our 
own  times,  and  prepare  us  for  the  remarks  which  may 
be  offered,  in  regard  to  the  missions  of  the  present  day^ 
in  the  different  islands  that  shall  be  noticed. 

The  largfe  island  of  Timor  was  one  of  those  inclu- 
ded  within  our  view  while  passing  through  the  Ombay 
passage.  Its  forest  trees  crowning  a  majestic  bank, 
which  skirted  the  sea,  waved  us  a  graceful  invitation 
to  their  cooling  shades — perhaps  to  the  relief  of  the 
crowds  who  perish  beneath  them.  Timor  is  one  of 
the  most  extensive  and  important  islands  in  these 
seas.      According     to   the   account   of    travelers,   a 


40  INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 

number  of  independent,  unsocial  tribes  roam  through  its 
deep  interior,  who  have  so  little  mutual  intercourse,  that 
no  less  than  forty  languages  are  employed  among 
them.  There  are  two  foreign  establishments  upon 
the  island,  the  one  occupied  by  the  Portuguese,  the 
other  by  the  Dutch.  The  former  is  called  Delli,  or 
Didilj  and  is  situated  on  the  north-east  part  of  the  is- 
land. Of  its  commercial  importance  we  know  but  lit- 
tle. More  than  three  centuries  have  elapsed  since  the 
Roman  Catholic  religion  was  introduced  here,  and  al- 
though the  Portuguese  colonists,  and  their  numerous 
priests,  have  generally  given  it  currency  in  other  parts 
of  the  east,  where  they  have  preserved  a  foothold,  yet 
Timor  has  received  but  little  attention  at  their  hands. 
According  to  a  witness  of  their  own  nation  and  reli- 
gion, the  principal  cause  of  this  neglect  is  found  in  the 
cupidity  and  profligacy  of  the  priests.  The  greater 
part  of  the  day  they  employ  in  speculations  in  sandal 
wood,  wax,  gold,  copper,  and  even  the  very  heathen 
themselves,  whom  they  purchase  and  export  as  slaves. 
This  however  is  but  a  part  of  their  unchristian  con- 
duct. 

"By  night  they  practice  every  sin, 
By  day  their  hands  draw  nigh  to  God." 

The  most  disgraceful  ecclesiastics  in  Macao,  are 
generally  selected  for  Timor  ;  and  cases  have  occurred, 
in  which  lawless  offenders  of  this  class,  with  whom 
nothing  could  be  done,  have  had  other  punishment 
mitigated  into  missionary  banishment  to  this  ill-fated 
island.  If  this  be  the  case,  and  there  is  certainly  no 
reason  to  doubt  the  authority  upon  which  it  is  given, 
we  see  sufficient  reason  why  the  petty  chiefs  who  have 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO.  41 

embraced  Catholicism,  according  to  travelers,  still  re- 
tain their  heathen  customs,  and  practice  the  grossest 
immoralities. 

Coopang,  the  Dutch  settlement,  stands  on  the  south 
west  extremity  of  the  island.  It  is  among  those  pla- 
ces in  which  the  early  chaplains  exerted  themselves 
with  such  vigor  and  apparent  success.  During  the 
eighteenth  century  it  shared  the  common  fate  of  the 
east,  being  forgotten  by  the  unsympathizing  mother  at 
home.  Left  as  sheep  without  a  shepherd,  many  bapti- 
zed natives  abandoned  even  the  name  of  Christ,  and  re- 
verted to  their  favorite  demonolatry.  In  the  year 
1821,  the  first  messenger  under  the  new  era  of  Chris- 
tian Missions,  resumed  the  long  suspended  duties  of 
the  Gospel  ministry  in  the  place.  Le  Brun,  the  name 
of  the  missionary,  was  an  excellent  character.  He 
was  spared  no  longer  than  to  prepare  himself  for  use- 
fulness in  his  new  sphere,  and  was  then  translated  to  a 
service  of  unmingled  enjoyments,  for  which  this  very 
discipline  had  equally  qualified  him.  Others  caught 
his  mantle,  and  followed  in  his  luminous  steps.  It 
is  a  conimon  complaint  in  the  correspondence  of  the 
missionaries,  that  multitudes  who  have  been  received 
into  the  Christian  church — probably  descendants  of 
the  early  converts — have  never  renounced  their  idola- 
trous habits.  The  unchristianized  natives  they  des- 
cribe as  slothful,  apathetic,  untrained  to  reflection,  liv- 
ing and  dying  like  brutes  around  them.  They  have 
no  established  forms  of  religion,  but  dread  the  power, 
and  deprecate  the  fury  of  infernal  spirits.  This  refers 
only  to  the  tribes  in  the  vicinity  of  the  settlement, 
where  the  Malayan  language  enters  into  the  admix- 


42  INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 

ture  of  their  native  tongue.  As  has  been  mentioned, 
those  in  the  interior  employ  a  number  of  languages^ 
very  distinct  from  the  Malay,  and  live  in  the  wildest 
state.  I  am  not  able  to  learn  that  any  attempts  have 
ever  been  made  for  their  conversion.* 

A  number  of  smaller  islands  in  the  surrounding 
seas,  are  occupied  by  the  missionaries  of  the  Nether- 
land's  Society ;  among  these  is  Rotti^  situated  a  short 
distance  south  of  Timor.  In  1820  there  were  three 
churches  completed,  and  others  in  progress,  on  this 
limited  spot.  Three  hundred  and  sixty  children  were 
enjoying  regular  instruction,  all  of  them  the  descend- 
ants of  nominal  Christains.  The  aboriginal  inhabit- 
ants are  more  energetic  in  mind  and  body  than  the 
Malays,  and  the  island  yields  a  rich  supply  of  rice  and 
palm  sugar.t 

East  and  north-east  of  Timor,  one  or  two  degrees 
from  it,  and  each  other,  are  the  small  islands  of  Letty, 
Moa,  Kisser,  and  Roma.  Each  of  them  is  a  mission 
station,  occupied  by  one  or  more  missionaries.  Some 
of  them  abound  with  inhabitahts,  who  have  a  language 
of  their  own,  and  whose  customs  are  entirely  repug- 
nant to  the  principles  of  Christianity,  which  many  pro- 
fess.    The  instructions  of  the  missionaries  are  gene- 

*  At  the  close  of  1831,  the  Dutch  reports  gave  an  aggregate  of  sere- 
ral  thousands  of  Christians  upon  the  island.  Whether  they  in" 
elude  those  whose  heathen  customs  the  missionaries  deplore,  we  know 
not.  In  1832,  six  missionaries  arrived  in  the  east,  four  of  whom  went 
to  an  institution  upon  Timor,  designed  for  fitting  European  and  native 
Christians  for  their  work.  One  of  them  was  appointed  to  the  chap- 
laincy of  the  company,  the  others,  it  is  hoped,  will  penetrate  beyond 
the  maratime  parts,  which  have  already  been  explored. 

t  Gf  the  recent  reinforcements  to  these  islands,  one  or  two  mission- 
aries are  instructed  to  occupy  Rotti. 


INDIAN  ARCHIFELAQO.  43 

rally  conveyed  through  the  Malayan  language,  which 
it  is  Said  they  are  endeavoring  to  make  the  universal 
medium  of  intercourse.  If  it  can  be  accomplish- 
ed without  sacrificing  the  eternal  interests  of  the  pre- 
sent generation,  the  object  is  worthy  t)f  their  strenu- 
ous efforts.  It  is  calculated  to  cherish  a  spirit  of 
benevolence  among  the  natives,  and  it  will  yield  the 
greatest  facility  of  labor  to  all  succeeding  missiona- 
ries. One  or  two  of  them  have  acquired  the  native 
speech  ;  but  thus  far,  no  translations  have  been  made, 
at  least  no  books  published.  According  to  the  report 
of  one  who  visited  the  island  of  Letty  in  ]  825,  he 
found  the  school-master  efficiently  engaged  in  his  du- 
ties, and  many  of  the  natives  had  been  prepared 
through  his  instrumentality  for  baptism,  whom  he  ad- 
mitted to  the  visible  membership  of  the  Christian 
church.  A  successor,  who  arrived  at  the  island  in 
1829,  states  that  numbers  of  baptized  Christians  were 
both  ignorant  and  addicted  to  all  the  vices  of  Paganism^ 
That  the  same  system  of  gathering  multitudes  indiscrim- 
inately within  the  pale  of  the  church,  should  be  practiced 
by  some  of  the  modern  missionaries,  is  a  source  of  la- 
mentation to  their  more  judicious  brethren,  and  to  all 
who  take  an  interest  in  their  successful  labors.  The 
result  is,  as  might  be  expected — some  "  weary  them- 
selves for  very  vanity,"  and  others  are  obliged  to  "la- 
bor in  the  very  fire"  most  inconsiderately  kindled 
against  them.  At  Wetter,  which  has  been  mentioned 
as  included  within  our  prospect,  the  heathen  are  rep- 
resented as  favorable  to  Christianity.  The  missionary 
who  visited  them  in  1825,  baptized  numbers,  and  uni- 
ted   many    in    Christian    marriage.      The     island 

5 


44  IJ^DIAN  ARCHIPELAGO* 

had  formerly  been  under  the  care  of  the  chaplains  ;  but 
for  the  last  forty  years,  Christian  instruction  had  been 
almost  entirely  suspended.  The  consequences  need 
not  be  detailed,  when  it  is  considered  that  little  more 
tiian  the  name  and  rites  of  Christianity  constituted  the 
sum  of  their  early  knowledge. 

After  leaving  the  Ombay  passage,  our  course  lay 
through  the  Banda  sea,  which  takes  its  name  from  a 
small  group  of  islands,  situated  two  and  a  half  degrees 
east  of  our  track.  Here,  the  Dutch  have  a  missiona- 
ry, who  under  date  of  1824,  reports  that  he  had  been 
visiting  those  who  professed  Christianity  from  house 
to  house.  He  was  shocked  at  their  ignorance  and  hea- 
thenism ;  barring  the  difference  of  name,  they  could 
not  be  distinguished  from  the  Mohammedans  and  hea- 
then around  them*  The  drums  of  the  soothsayers 
made  a  deeper  impression  upon  them,  tlian  the  truths 
of  the  Gospel. 

Such  was  the  depravity  of  the  great  mass  of  adults, 
and  such  the  example  by  which  their  children  were 
seduced  into  all  wickedness,  that  the  missionary  was 
constrained  under  the  deep  emotions  of  his  soul,  to  ex- 
claim "Rivers  of  waters  run  down  mine  eyes,  because 
they  keep  not  thy  law."  Still,  a  {ew  fads  of  some 
promise  were  noticed  ;  there  were  those  who  could 
and  did  read  the  Bible  ;  the  schools,  though  languish- 
ins:  were  not  closed,  and  a  few  of  the  converts  main- 
tained  a  character  worthy  the  religion  they  professed. 
In  former  days  there  were  congregations  upon  a  num- 
ber of  these  islands  ;  but  the  blight  of  death  has  pas«f- 
ed  over  them. 

At  Great  Banda  there  are  twenty-four  plantations. 


INDIAN  A&CHIPELAOO.  49 

managed  by  as  many  native  planters,  who  bear  ih« 
name  of  Christ. 

Still  farther  to  the  east,  nearly  a  south-east  diree- 
t  ion  from  Banda,  is  a  chain  of  islets,  called  by  the 
Dutch,  "  the  Keys,"  which  extend  to  the  Arroo  group 
oi  the  charts.  The  former  are  described  as  fertile 
spots,  producing  a  variety  of  fruits,  and  peopled  by  a 
race  of  men,  who  have  ever  shown  a  peculiar  mild- 
liess  of  disposition  and  hospitality  towards  strangers. 
Whether  this  benevolence  is  a  genuine  expression  of 
soul,  or  assumed  from  motives  of  policy,  has  not  been 
ascertained.  The  only  ground  of  uncharitable  suspi- 
cion rests  upon  their  physical  weakness,  and  destitu- 
tion  or  paucity  of  arms.  The  Arroo  islands  are  ex- 
tremely valuable,  and  said  to  contain  a  population  of 
about  twenty  thousand  ;  they  abound  in  all  the  deli- 
cious fruits  of  the  Moluccas,  and  swarm  with  poultry 
and  birds,  of  the  richest,  rarest  plumage.  They  con- 
tain a  small  band  of  professing  Christians,  with  a  larg^ 
proportion  of  Mohammedans,  and  a  still  greater  num- 
ber of  heathen.  Prom  the  reports  of  the  missionaries 
in  their  vicinity,  these  islands  hold  out  the  most  in- 
spiriting invitation  to  the  servants  of  Christ;  the  field 
is  large,  and  numbers  would  find  delightful  employ- 
ment in  its  culture.  One  relative  advantage  of  the 
highest  importance  is,  the  proximity  of  these  islands 
to  Ne^  Guinea,  with  whose  shores,  there  is  no  doubt 
a  constant  intercourse,  and  whose  degraded  millions 
might  be  approached  through  this  point  of  access. 

Contrary  winds  and  a  temporary  calm  detained  us 
two  or  three  days  in  the  Banda  sea. 

On  the  28th  January,  the  large  island  of  Booro  was 


46  INDIAN  ABCHIPELAOO> 

descried,  and  the  next  morning  we  found  ourselvcij 
passing",  at  the  distance  of  a  few  miles  from  its  south- 
eastern shore.  Besides  its  other  valuable  productions, 
the  island  is  the  genial  soil  of  the  cajeput  tree,  whose 
well  known  oil  is  a  principal  article  of  export.  It  is 
virtually  under  the  domination  of  the  Dutch,  though, 
with  the  exception  of  a  foreign  Resident,  the  inhabit- 
ants are  governed  by  their  own  rajahs.  The  king  of 
the  country,  and  nine  subordinate  chiefs,  by  whom 
he  is  assisted  in  judicial  matters,  are  Mohammedans. 
The  inhabitants,  whom  the  Dutch  call  Alfories,  have 
not  submitted  to  the  yoke  of  Islamism,  and  it  is  said, 
are  not  allowed  to  embrace  Christianity.  Still  the 
place  is  not  entirely  destitute  of  Christian  instruction. 
A  missionary  is  stationed  here,  who,  under  date  of 
1825,  writes  that  the  island  is  divided  into  ten  dis- 
tricts, and  that  there  were  about  ninety  Christians,  and 
one  hundred  and  forty,  including  children,  who  had 
been  baptized. 

The  state  of  religion  among  these  few^  differs  in 
no  respects  from  the  corruption  prevailing  in  the  oth- 
er islands.  The  judgments  of  God  exhibited  in  those 
sweeping  scourges,  cholera  and  famine,  aroused  their 
fears,  and  brought  them  for  a  time  to  a  better  state  of 
mind. 

The  aborigines  are  characterized  by  gentleness  and 
timidity.  Idleness,  opium — smoking,  and  drunken- 
ness are  their  reigning  vices  ;  dancing  is  their  popular 
amusement. 

After  leaving  the  Banda  Sea,  we  passed  through 
the  straits  of  Manippa,  which  brought  within  our  hori- 
zon a  number  of  important  islands.     Amboyna,  the 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO.  47 

principal  one,  is  distinguished  among  all  the  spice  set- 
tlements under  European  control,  for  the  extent  and 
beauty  of  its  capital,  the  strength  of  its  fortifications, 
and  the  proportionately  large  number  of  its  professing 
Christians.  It  contains  a  population  of  between  forty 
and  fifty  thousand.  Mr.  Kam,  the  first  missionary  of 
the  new  era,  who  arrived  in  1815,  reports  that  he  found 
twenty  thousand  native  Christians,  prepared  by  his 
predecessors,  for  attending  the  ordinances  of  the  Gos- 
pel. The  nature  of  this  preparation  is  not  stated, 
though  the  missionary  probably  includes  all  who  had 
been  received  into  the  visible  church,  by  its  initiatory 
rite,  with  their  descendants.  He  found  many  dis- 
tricts, whose  inhabitants  were  formerly  Christian,  re- 
lapsed into  Paganism.  A  terrifying  earthquake  fright- 
ened some  of  them  back  into  the  profession  they  had 
abandoned.  Mr.  Kam  commenced  his  labors  here 
and  in  the  neighboring  islands,  with  much  zeal  and 
energy.  Prompted  by  a  spirit  which  every  missiona- 
ry should  possess,  he  looked  upon  himself  as  a  "debt- 
or to  all,"  and  consequently  entered  into  every  sphere 
where  he  thought  his  services  might  be  useful.  Much 
of  his  time  was  devoted  to  a  visitation  of  those  islands, 
where  churches  had  been  planted,  or  where  there  was 
an  opening  for  the  introduction  of  the  Gospel.  His 
journals  show  an  entire  devotedness  to  his  Savior's 
kingdom,  though  from  the  many  thousands  he  bapti- 
zed in  his  extensive  and  repeated  circuits,  we  cannot 
but  fear  that  his  views  on  this  subject  were  not  the 
most  judicious. 

Two  institutions  were  established  at  Amboyna,  for 
the  preparation  of  schoolmasters, — one  under  a  com- 

6* 


4S  INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 

mittee  of  government  officers^  including  the  missiona- 
ry, who  is  the  appointed  chaplain — the  other  under 
the  sole  direction  of  Mr.  Kam,  and  designed  to  pre- 
pare young  men  for  less  prominent,  though  equally 
destitute  stations.  These  institutions,  and  epecially 
the  latter,  have  been  successful  in  their  operations. 
Other  means  have  been  employed  for  the  conversion 
of  the  heathen,  with  much  visible  effect. 

At  Manippa,  through  the  straits  of  which  we  sail- 
ed, there  are  many  Mussulmans,  and  a  few  Christians. 
The  missionaries  report,  that  two  villages  had  cast 
away  their  idols  and  embraced  Christianity. 

We  had  the  large  and  beautiful  island  of  Ceram  in 
sight  a  long  time.  Its  lively  verdure,  its  towering 
mountains,  its  irregular  and  variegated  surface,  and 
especially  its  associated  history,  tended  to  render  it  an 
object  of  most  interesting  contemplation.  Travelers 
dwell  with  rapture  upon  the  enchantment  of  its  scene- 
ry, and  the  exuberance  and  variety  of  its  productions. 
The  sago  finds  no  soil  so  congenial  to  its  rapid  and 
perfect  development  as  the  well  saturated  bogs  of 
Ceram.  This  valuable  tree  grows  wild,  not  m.erely 
in  scattering  clumps,  but  in  deep  forests,  supplying 
its  indolent  tribes  with  abundant  provision,  and  con- 
siderable wealth.  The  waters  teem  with  a  variety  of 
the  finest  fish,  so  that  it  has  been  said  of  the  natives 
of  this  island,  as  of  the  birds  of  the  air,  "  They  sow 
not,  neither  do  the  reap,  nor  gather  into  barns,"  The 
inhabitants  of  the  sea-coast  are  principally  Malays  ;  in 
the  inland  districts,  the  Alfories  or  aborigines,  abound. 
The  shocking  Diak  custom  of  destroying  human  life, 
by  arts  the  most  treacherous,  without  provocation,  and 


INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO.  4^ 

merely  to  add  human  heads  to  the  trophies  of  their 
cruelty,  associates,  in  barbarity,  if  not  in  consanguinity, 
the  inhabitants  of  Ceram  with  those  of  Borneo  and 
Celebes.  Demonolatry  is  the  prevailing^superstition, 
and  the  infernal  rites,  and  horrid  imprecations  employ- 
ed in  binding  themselves  to  a  voluntary  and  perpetual 
slavery  to  the  "  Rulers  of  darkness,"  breathe  the  very 
spirit  of  hell. 

When  Mr.  Kam  visited  the  place,  after  his  arrival 
in  these  seas,  he  found  that  they  had  been  destitute  of 
the  ordinances  of  religion,  at  least,  of  the  advanta- 
ges of  the  regular  ministrations,  for  the  last  twen- 
ty years.  He  passed  through  twelve  districts,  preach- 
ing and  administering  the  sacraments  of  the  Gos- 
pel. After  his  return,  he  received  intelligence  that 
two  villages  had  demolished  their  pagan  temples. 
But  alas  !  numbers  of  these  stony  ground  hearers 
soon  began  to  decline,  so  that  the  missionary  felt  him- 
self obliged  to  make  them  another  visit.  In  some 
districts  the  instructions  of  the  missionary  were  un- 
heeded. Many  of  the  Christians  did  not  even  believe 
in  a  future  state  of  existence.  At  Kaibobo,  on  Ceram, 
a  missionary  is  stationed.  He  gives  no  favorable  ac- 
count of  the  progress  of  the  children  in  the  schools, 
nor  of  the  good  example  and  discipline  of  their  pa- 
rents at  home. 

In  a  report  of  Mr.  Kam  for  1827,  he  speaks  of  more 
than  six  thousand  church  members,  and  upwards  of 
two  thousand  children  under  instruction.* 

With  the  exception  of  Ternati,  one  of  the  Moluccas, 


*  The  discrepancy  in  the  two  statements  majr  be  easily  reconciled, 
though  we  fear  that  the  least  gratifying  account  is  the  most  correct. 


50  INDIAN    ARCHIPELAGO. 

situated  not  far  from  the  north  coast  of  Gilolo,  we  have 
gone  over  the  principal  stations  under  the  Netherlands 
Missionary  Society  in  this  part  of  the  Archipelago. 

Ternatij  though  small,  has  long  maintained  an  im- 
portance above  its  neighbors.  Its  Sultan  has  ac- 
quired the  sovereignty  of  many  of  the  adjacent  islands, 
having  extended  his  dominions  to  parts  of  Celebes,  and 
even  to  New  Guinea.  The  missionary  here  has  been 
taken  into  the  service  of  the  government,  and  though 
a  man  of  excellent  character,  his  health  is  too  feeble  to 
fulfil  his  duties  among  Christians;  of  course,  he  can 
attempt  but  little  for  the  heathen.  The  situation  is 
probably  one  of  the  most  important  for  a  missionary 
colony  in  these  seas. 

Before  we  close  this  rapid  survey  of  the  numerous 
stations  occupied  by  the  Netherlands  Society  and  open 
to  their  future  exertions,  a  few  facts  merit  our  attention. 
The  extent  and  fertility  of  many  of  the  islands, 
the  number  of  their  inhabitants,  their  proximi- 
ty to  others  still  more  spacious  and  populous,  render 
them  highly  important  for  missionary  establishments ; 
while  the  liberty  enjoyed  by  Europeans  of  visiting  the 
coast  and  traversing  the  interior  of  most  of  them,  add- 
ed to  the  readiness  with  which  the  natives  generally 
listen  to  their  instructions,  and  conform  by  thousands 
to  the  external  rites  of  Christianity,  enhance  their  in- 
terest, and  give  them  a  bold  prominence  among  the 
most  inviting  spheres  of  Christian  benevolence. 

To  those  acquaninted  with  the  history  of  these  mis- 
sions, it  may  be  thought  strange  that  we  do  not  dwell 
more  in  detail  upon  the  numbers  who  have  at  differ- 
ent times  renounced  idolatry,  and  professed  the  reli- 


IKDIAN  ARCHIPSLAGO.  51 

gion  of  Christ.  Our  only  reason  is,  because  the  quali- 
fications for  baptism,  required  by  many  of  the  mission- 
aries, differ  so  essentially  from  the  views  entertained 
by  tlie  majority  who  shall  probably  read  this  work,  that 
numbers  would  convey  no  correct  idea  of  the  success 
of  their  labors.  In  islands,  and  districts  of  islands, 
occasionally  visited  by  the  missionaries,  they  inform 
us  that  although  they  had  but  a  few  opportunities  for 
preaching,  they  were  much  occupied  in  admitting  ap- 
plicants to^the  communion  of  the  church,  and  admin- 
istering to  them  its  most  solemn  sacraments.  Had  all 
these  places  been  supplied  with  native  teachers,  in 
whose  piety  and  judgment  entire  confidence  could 
be  placed,  this  apparently  hasty  mode  of  procedure 
might  have  been  admissible.  But  when  we  learn  from 
their  own  accounts,  that  apostacy  is  very  common,  and 
that  villages  and  whole  districts  frequently  relapse  in- 
to their  former  abominations,  we  must  conclude  that 
either  the  native  teachers  are  unqualified  for  their 
duties,  or  disproportioned  in  numbers  to  their  stations ; 
or  that  those  admitted  to  the  ordinances  of  the  church 
are  received  on  other  grounds  than  the  repentance  and 
faith  enjoined  in  the  Scriptures. 

It  is  not  intended  that  these  plans  are  approved  by 
all  the  present  missionaries ;  neitlier  is  it  certain  that 
they  are  pursued  by  the  majority.  A  very  few  labor- 
ers of  incorrect  sentiments  respecting  the  proper  sub- 
jects of  the  sacraments,  are  quite  sufficient  to  produce 
all  the  consequences  we  here  deplore. 

One  fact,  which  strikes  us  powerfully,  and  which 
may  tend  to  explain  in  a  measure,  what  we  cannot  ap- 
prove, is  the  paucity  of  laborers.     Compared  with  most 


BZ  INDIAN  AECHIFELAttO. 

Other  societies,  the  one,  whose  field  and  operations  wo 
have  been  considering-,  has  done  nobly ;  but  its  re- 
sources are  too  limited  for  the  work  to  be  performed. 
Hundreds  of  men,  in  the  spirit  and  strength  of  their 
Savior,  would  find  in  these  vernal  islands,  the  most 
animating  employment,  and  no  doubt  produce  the  most 
desirable  changes. 

After  leaving  the  straits  of  Manippa,  our  course  w^as 
nearly  north-east,  through  Dampier  straits  into  the  Pa- 
cific. A  multiplicity  of  unimportant  islands,  appear- 
ed and  sunk  in  our  horizon,  as  we  glided  gently  along, 
until  we  emerged  from  these  insular  seas,  and  felt  our 
gallant  ship  once  more  timing  her  movements  to  tho 
re2;ular  and  lengthened  swells  of  the  wide  ocean.  New 
Guinea,  or  the  great  Papua  country,  and  Waygiou  or 
Waijoo,  between  which  we  passed,  remained  in  sight 
many  hours.  The  mountains  of  the  former  appeared 
stupendous,  and  the  distant  coast  resembled  hills  of 
different  altitudes,  and  dimensions,  rising  separately 
from  the  ocean.  It  is  rather  extraordinary  that  though 
we  have  been  for  many  days  surrounded  with  human 
habitations,  some  of  which,  with  their  possessors,  w^e 
approached  near  enough  to  discern,  w^e  have  received 
no  visitors,  and  perceived  but  one  proa  in  motion. 

Waijoo  contains  one  hundred  thousand  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  said  that  they  trade  to  a  considerable  extent 
with  the  Chinese,  and  that  the  greater  part  of  them 
speak  the  Chinese  language.  From  the  accounts  of 
travelers — though  we  have  seen  nothing  of  a  recent 
date — we  can  find  no  reason  why  an  intercourse  might 
not  be  opened  wnth  them  and  a  mission  established 
upon  their   island.     Independently  of  the  claims  of 


IKDIAN  ARCHli*ELAGO.  53 

its  own  population,  its  position  is  peculiarly  favorable, 
both  to  conainunicate  with  home,  and  with  the  impor- 
tant islands  in  its  vicinity. 

But  it  is  to  New  Guinea  that  the  eye  turns  with  the 
deepest  concern.  This  insular  continent  extends 
about  twelve  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  from 
fifteen  to  three  hundred  and  sixty  in  breadth.  Navi- 
gators speak  with  rapture  of  the  beauty  of  its  coasts, 
and  the  astonishing  beauty  of  its  rich  productions. 
Among  the  ornaments  of  its  natural  history  is  the  far 
lamed  bird  of  paradise,  of  which  ten  or  twelve  species 
make  it  their  favorite  residence.  It  is  inhabited  by 
several  millions  of  souis,  who  are  sunk  into  deep  intel- 
Jeclual  ignorance  and  spiritual  death.  Many  distinct 
tribes,  exceedingly  opposite  to  each  other  in  appearance 
and  habits,  spread  themselves  through  its  coasts  and 
interior.  The  great  mass  consist  of  negroes,  of  a  hercu- 
lean frame,  and  jet  black  countenance,  with  prominent 
eyes,  distended  mouths,  spreading  noses,  and  curled 
hair  projecting  in  an  enormous  bunch  from  the  head. 
Some  of  them  are  cannibals  of  the  worst  character. 
Others  are  mild  and  obliging  to  strangers  ;  disposed  to 
trade  upon  terms  the  most  advantageous  to  the  other 
party  ;  neither  knowing  the  value  of  their  own  articles, 
nor  the  worthlessness  of  those  they  most  admire. 
Though  we  are  probably  the  fii^t  missionaries,  who 
have  ever  gazed  upon  its  shores,  the  wiser  and  more 
adventurous  children  of  this  world  hesitate  not  to  vis- 
it it  whenever  their  object  can  be  gained.* 

*  The  following  facts  were  extracted  from  the  journal  of  a  captain, 
published  in  the  Singapore  Chronicle,  who  writes  under  date  of  1830. 
They  may  b«  useful  to  somciv    At  Dorr  of  the  charts  he  found  a  good 


^4  INDIAN  ARCHIPELAQO. 

Thus  we  perceive  from  the  catalogue  of  islands  enu- 
merated,— and  the  list  may  be  easily  swelled,  if  we 
were  to  proceed  a  short  distance  to  the  east, — what  a 
sphere  of  Christian  benevolence  lies  in  almost  total 
neglect  in  these  seas.  It  is,  no  doubt,  judged  by  some 
advisable  to  defer  missionary  engagements,  until  com- 
merce shall  open  an  access  to  these  barbarous  regions, 
and  prepare  the  way  of  the  gospel ;  but  even  if  the 
character  and  conduct  of  traders  had  this  general  ten- 
dency, how  long  shall  we  wait?  Had  there  been  any 
strong  inducements  to  commercial  enterprise,  the  ad- 
vantages would  not  have  been  neglected  until  the  pre- 
sent. And  as  it  has  been  found  that  the  influence  of 
men  from  Christian  countries  in  pursuit  of  wealth,  is 
generally  prejudicial  to  the  extension  of  the  religion, 
whose  principles  they  fail  to  exemplify  ;  it  is  no  doubt 
favorable  that  such  a  preliminary  barrier  has  not  been 
reared  against  the  introduction  of  the  truth. 

The  servants  of  Christ  engaged  in  foreign  commerce, 
might  afford  the  most  valuable  aid,  in  hastening  the 
conversion  of  these  nations.     Indeed,  without  their  as- 


harbor,  and  the  people  very  friendly.  They  gave  him  rnissoy  bark, 
tripang  and  tortoise  shell,  in  exchange  for  iron,  blue  cloth,  &-c.  At 
Myfordi,  (Long  Island  of  the  charts,)  the  rajah  spoke  Malay,  but  was 
absent ;  he  afterwards  met  him  and  found  him  friendly.  At  Misori 
or  Schoten  island,  the  people  are  considered  treacherous.  At  Paddy- 
doo,  or  Traitor's  Island,  they  are  on  the  contrary  exceedingly  friendly, 
and  as  an  expression  of  it,  carried  their  boat  when  grounded,  about 
two  miles.  At  Korgering,-T>r  Jobie,  a  considerable  island  in  the  deep 
bay,  the  natives  were  also  very  friendly.  At  Ansoose,  off  Jobie,  lati- 
tude two  degrees  south,  there  are  a  number  of  islands;  the  natives  are 
not  to  be  trusted.  At  Coordoo,  (Geebrinks,  East  Point  of  the  charts) 
a  smell  village  on  the  east  point  of  the  great  bay,  their  boats  were  seiz- 
ed with  six  men  in  them.  Some  of  the  men  were  killed  in  a  savage 
manner.  The  bottom  and  east  of  the  great  bay  is  said  to  be  inhabited 
by  the  worst  description  of  cannibals.  The  principal  trade  is  with  the 
Gkinese. 


iNDlAi^    ARCHIPELAGO.  B8 

sistance,  we  scarcely  know  how  any  thing  can  be  done 
for  the  present.  They  might  dispatch  a  ship  on  an 
exploring  tour,  to  obtain  more  accurate  information 
about  the  character  and  circumstances  of  the  different 
tribes  of  natives,  and  to  determine  the  most  eligible 
sites  for  missions.  The  ship  could  probably  defray  • 
her  expenses  by  the  same  traffic,  which  others  carry 
on,  who  have  no  such  object  in  view.  When  the  best 
localities  are  ascertained,  and  missionaries  sent  forth 
to  occupy  them,  nothing  further  would  be  required  for 
facilitating  their  work,  but  to  furnish  them  with  small 
vessels,  capable  of  navigating  these  seas,  and  to  favor 
them  with  an  annual  visitor  or  two  from  home,  to  sup- 
ply them  with  nc-cessities  and  comforts. 

With  the  blessing  of  God's  Spirit  upon  their  labors, 
which  we  believe  would  be  quickly  and  amply  bestow- 
ed, the  missionaries  would  soon  place  themselves  upon  a 
permanent  and  advantageous  footing,  and  probably  re- 
pay to  their  commercial  friends  a  rich  reward  for  their 
assistance.  Thus  the  gospel,  by  the  light  it  sheds,  and  / 
the  diligence  it  commands,  would  prepare  the  way  of 
trade,  and  the  benefits  that  would  accrue  to  different 
and  widely  distant  nations,  would  be  incalculable. 
Millions  now  below  the  brutes  would  emerge  from 
iheir  ignorance  and  degradation,  into  the  light  and 
life  of  rational  and  renovated  beings. 

But  lest  the  plan  here  proposed  should  be  disappro* 
ved,  or  what  amounts  to  the  same,  not  acted  upon,  anO* 
ther  may  be  suggested,  in  which  the  pecuniary  sacri- 
fice or  hazard  is  less.  Those  ships  bound  to  Canton, 
and  obliged  like  ourselves  to  make  this  eastern  pas- 
sage, might  attempt  the  prerequisite  task  of  exploring, 

6 


66  INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO, 

and  upon  its  completion,  if  the  trade  did  not  answer 
their  expectations,  might  proceed  to  Canton,  without 
incurring  much  risk,  or  losing  much  time.  And  thus 
®ne  or  two  ouPof-season  ships  could  annually  touch  at 
any  station  selected,  and  by  administering  to  the  health 
and  comfort  of  the  missionaries,  afford  material  service 
to  the  cause  in  which  they  are  engaged. 

But  whence  the  necessity  of  holding  out  a  temporal 
reward,  as  an  inducement  to  Christians,  to  discharge 
their  duties?  What  but  the  glory  of  the  Redeemer, 
can  be  the  object  of  commerce  in  the  purposes  of  God, 
and  what  could  more  loudly  proclaim  this  object,  than 
the  sanctification  of  many  to  Himself,  to  whom  He  has 
intrusted  the  talent  of  such  extensive  usefulness  ? 
*'  Surely  the  isles  shall  wait  for  me,  and  the  ships  of 
Tarshish  first,  to  bring  thy  sons  from  far." 

If  ships  are  to  be  employed  in  the  benevolent  plans 
of  the  Savior,  who  that  understands  his  own  honor, 
as  well  as  duty,  would  hesitate  to  favor  these  purpo- 
ses, and  thus  identify  himself,  and  his  possessions, 
with  the  instrumentality  employed  in  the  regeneration 
of  a  world. 

After  leaving  the  straits  of  Dampier,  the  wind  obli- 
ged us  to  stand  off  in  nearly  an  easterly  direction. 
On  the  8th  of  February  we  descried  the  Pelew  islands. 
The  vigilant  natives  were  as  sharp-sighted  as  our* 
selves.  Their  distant  abodes  had  scarcely  spotted  our 
horizon,  before  we  perceived  a  number  of  sails,  feath- 
ering the  ocean,  and  advancing  in  our  pursuit.  One 
proa  intersected  our  course  and  awaited  our  arrival. 
As  we  passed  they  attempted  to  gain  the  lee  of  the 
ship,  but  were  disappointed.     As   quick  as  thought^ 


INDIAN  ARCHIPBLAGO.  '  ^7 

their  sail  was  hoisted,  and  the  effort  renewed.  The 
progress  of  the  ship  was  checked — a  rope  was  thrown 
them,  which  they  caught,  but  the  result  was  again 
unfortunate.  Their  crazy  boat  was  drawn  under  the 
counter  of  the  ship,  and  they  were  compelled  to  aban- 
don their  hold.  Discouraged  and  unnerved  by  this  se- 
cond defeat,  they  remained  a  long  time  stationary  and 
motionless ;  as  though  indulging  the  listlessness  of 
disappointment,  or  endeavoring  in  vain,  to  re-excite 
their  hopes  and  energies  for  another  trial. 

Their  proa  was  apparently  the  excavated  trunk  of 
a  tree.  Its  breadth  bore  no  proportion  to  its  length. 
The  sail  was  triangular ;  to  the  windward  side  was 
attached  an  out~rigger,  projecting  about  three  feet. 
On  this  as  many  sat  as  were  necessary  to  preserve  the 
balance  of  the  boat,  while  one  was  constantly  employ- 
ed in  discharging  the  water,  received  from  every 
wave. 

The  crew  was  composed  of  six  persons  of  both  sex- 
es. Some  of  them  had  huge  pendants  in  their  ears — 
all  were  perfectly  denuded.  The  performance  of  their 
canoes  and  the  skill  and  dexterity  with  which  they 
manage  them,  are  surprising.  They  come  dancing  over 
the  waves  like  "  fairy  sprites,"  and  with  a  velocity, 
which  it  demands  a  stiff  breeze  and  rough  sea  for  a 
ship  to  equal.  One  or  two  of  them  continued  in  pur- 
suit of  us,  until  their  small  islands  were  left  below  our 
horizon,  and  themselves  shut  in  by  the  shades  of  the 
evening. 

The  natives  of  this  group  were  formerly  represent- 
ed as  the  mildest  and  most  benevolent  specimens  of 
unenlightened  men.     This  character  they  have  lately 


^  INDIAN  ARCHIPELAGO. 

lost  by  attempts  at  violence,  which  prove  that  tlieir 
previous  kindness  was  neither  natural,  nor  the  result  of 
principle.  When  they  learned  the  uses  of  iron,  it  is 
said  that  they  made  a  desperate  effort  to  cut  off  a  ship, 
and  murder  all  its  company,  to  secure  the  object  of 
their  cupidity.  As  it  is  "the  determinate  counsel"  of 
Jehovah  to  extend  the  scepter  of  his  mercy  over  these 
benighted  spots  of  the  earth,  it  becomes  us  to  whom 
this  instrumental  work  is  committed  to  devise  the  most 
expeditious  mode  for  its  accomplishment.  We  know 
of  no  way  in  which  missions  could  be  planted  and  sus- 
tained in  this  and  the  neighboring  islands,  except 
through  the  services  of  an  itinerant  ship  devoted  to 
this  purpose.  An  attempt  to  explore  these  regions,  in 
native  vessels,  would  be  preposterous.  It  could  not  be 
done  without  the  greatest  waste  of  time  and  hazard  of 
life.  And  if  the  best  position  were  ascertained  by  this 
means,  how  could  families  be  transported  to  their  des- 
tination— how  could  they  receive  the  supplies  they 
would  require  ?  A  ship  appears  to  me  indispensable.  No- 
thing would  more  effectually  restrain  the  barbarity  of 
the  natives ;  nothing  more  powerfully  secure  their  re- 
spect, than  the  annual  visits  of  such  a  vessel.  The  rest 
of  her  time  might  be  employed  in  the  same  work,  alonof 
the  coasts  of  Siam,  Gambia,  Cochin-China,  China-Co- 
rea,  Japan,  and  other  places. 


CHAPTER    II 


CHINA. 


February  17th,  1830.  Latitude  22  degrees  north, 
lono^itude  115  degrees,  18  minutes  east. 

Early  this  morning  we  were  called  up  to  view  the 
Chinese  fishing  boats,  scattered  in  almost  every  direc- 
tion, around  us.  They  had  ventured  beyond  the 
sight  of  land,  and  were  fishing  in  pairs,  with  a  net 
trailing  between  them.  These  small  boats  are  hu- 
man habitations,  occupied  by  as  many  generations 
as  are  usually  permitted  to  exist  cotemporaneously. 
What  a  prison  for  intellectual  beings,  with  perhaps  no 
prospect  of  a  change  in  this  life,  and  without  a  know* 
ledge  of  the  immortality  in  the  next. 

It  is  said  they  are  not  allowed  to  trade  with  foreign 
vessels,  and  their  exceeding  shyness,  and  the  govern- 
ment boats  attending  them,  confirm  the  existence  of 
such  an  interdict.  Two  hundred  were  counted  at 
one  time. 

18th.  To-day  we  caught  the  first  view  of  China, 
while  sailing  in  a  line  with  its  coast.  The  distance 
was  too  great  to  define  any  thing,  but  the  shadowy 
outline  of  its  hills. 

We  have  passed  the  latitude  of  Formosa,  whick 
claims  a  notice,  alike  on  account  of  its  own  inherent 

6* 


60  CHINA. 

interest,  and  for  the  sad  tale  of  missions,  which  its 
history  unfolds.  A  chain  of  mountains,  extending 
nearly  north  and  south,  forms  a  natural  boundary  be- 
tween its  aboriginal  inhabitants,  and  the  Chinese. 
The  eastern  coast,  in  the  possession  of  the  latter^  it 
is  said  by  the  old  Dutch  writers,  merits  the  name 
by  which  it  is  known.  The  western  division  is  in- 
habited by  several  tribes,  among  which  is  a  negro 
race  of  immense  size.  In  the  early  part  of  the  sev- 
enteenth century,  the  Dutch  introduced  Christianity 
into  this  island.  A  number  of  chaplains  successively 
engaged  in  the  undertaking,  who  baptized  multitudes, 
and  gathered  many  congregations.  Parts  of  the 
Scriptures  were  translated  into  the  vernacular  of  the 
aborigines,  whicli  differs  greatly  from  the  language  of 
the  empire.  These  were  sent  to  Amsterdam,  with 
other  Christian  books,  for  publication  ;  but  there  is  no 
evidence  that  they  ever  went  through  the  press.  Ac- 
cording to  the  account  of  the  missionaries,  this  exten- 
sive field  yielded  with  trifling  care,  and  promised  the 
most  abundant  fruits.  But  their  prospects  and  pro- 
jects were  soon  defeated  ;  the  island  was  captured  by  a 
pirate,  who  massacred  some  of  the  chaplains,  destroy- 
ed Christianity,  and  re-established  idolatry.  This 
event  occurred  in  1661,  since  which  period,  the  Chi-~ 
nese  have  spread  themselves  in  numbers  over  its  east- 
ern section ;  at  present,  it  is  in  a  state  of  constant  re- 
bellion, the  resort  of  the  disaffected  toward  the  gov- 
ernment. 

19th.  The  dawn  of  this  morning  disclosed  the 
bluff,  barren  peaks  of  the  Ladrone,  and  neighboring 
islands^  called  by  the  Chinese  the  old  ten  thousand 


CHINA.  61 

hills.  Our  approach  was  soon  descried  by  the  vigi- 
lant natives,  and  before  sunrise,  a  tall,  muscular,  swar- 
thy man  came  on  board,  and  offered  himself  as  a  pi- 
lot ;  when  informed  that  his  services  were  not  reqai- 
red,  and  convinced  from  the  ill  success  of  his  repeated 
appUcations,  that  money  could  not  be  earned,  he  as-  / 
sumed  the  less  honorable  office  of  a  beggar.  ^  The 
same  means  were  adopted  by  others  who  succeeded 
him  in  the  course  of  the  day,  and  tried  all  possible  ex- 
pedients to  obtain  money  or  its  value. 

From  our  visitors  we  received  information  of  a  va- 
riety of  recent  ev^ents,  principally  relating  to  foreign 
residents  in  Canton,  some  of  which  were  fraught  with 
painful  interest.  Many  of  them  employed  a  broken 
English  of  rather  ludicrous  peculiarity  ;  in  fact,  ah 
unknown  tongue  to  the  uninitiated,  but  sufficient  to 
communicate  ideas  on  ordinary  topics,  to  those  who 
liad  been  educated  in  the  same  school.  With  one,  ' 
whom  the  captain  recognized,  an  agreement  was  soon 
made,  and  dispatches  forwarded  to  Canton.  The 
time  to  which  he  was  limited,  and  on  which  his  re- 
compense depended,  was  scarcely  sufficient  to  allow 
the  least  interval  of  rest,  although  his  countenance  and 
conduct  evinced  that  he  considered  ten  dollars,  the 
stipulated  sum,  an  ample  compensation.  The  dis- 
tance from  the  place  he  met  us  is  probably  eighty 
miles  from  Canton,  and  the  risk  of  being  detected  by 
government  officers,  in  a  business  interdicted  by  law, 
by  no  means  inconsiderable.  Between  eight  and  nine 
in  the  evening,  we  reached  the  anchorage  at  Lintin. 
This  entrance  of  the  '  celestial  regions^^  is  far  from 
interesting.     The  numerous  islands  are   rough  and 


62  CHINA. 

desolate,  and  with  the  exception  of  a  few  spots  near 
the  sea,  there  is  scarcely  the  trace  of  man  or  beast,  or 
the  appearance  of  vegetation  to  be  discovered. 

20th.  Our  present  anchorage  is  the  depot  of  smug- 
glers, where  the  opium  ships  are  moored,  and  whence 
this  deathful  drug,  to  the  amount  of  many  millions  of 
dollars  annually,  is  conveyed  throughout  the  empire. 
Among  the  boats  clandestinely  engaged  in  the  local 
traffic,  are  a  number  commissioned  for  the  protection 
of  lawful  commerce,  but  which  are  as  actively  em- 
ployed against  the  interests  of  the  government,  as  they 
would  be  in  the  maintenance  of  its  laws,  if  with  equal 
facility,  and  more  gain,  the  revenue  officers  who  have 
them  in  charge  could  fulfil  the  duties  of  their  ap- 
pointment. 

This  afternoon,  for  the  first  time  in  one  hundred 
and  twenty-seven  days,  we  touched  our  feet  upon 
solid  ground,  and  though  on  a  heathen  shore,  far  from 
our  native  land,  felt  a  gratification  peculiar  to  the 
wave-tossed  prisoner,  when  released  from  his  tedious 
confinement.  It  was  the  island  of  Lintin,  the  resort 
and  habitation  of  fishermen,  and  the  possession  of  a 
few  families,  who  cultivate  the  ground,  and  supply  the 
shipping  with  provisions.  To  those  who  have  been 
accustomed  to  attach  value  to  industry,  the  striking 
disproportion  between  labor  and  its  fruits  will  not  fail 
to  arrest  the  attention.  Almost  every  foot  of  land 
which  had  been  leveled  by  nature,  or  could  be  redu- 
ced by  art,  was  in  cultivation,  while  the  adjacent 
springs  and  ponds  of  water  were  all  submitted  to  the 
same  tax. 

We  attempted  to  enter  a  small  village,  but  an  old 


CHINA.  63 

man  came  out,  and  with  a  courteous  air  of  authority 
forbade  us.  In  some  of  the  huts  near  the  beach,  they 
were  engaged  at  their  meals,  and  with  mouths  filled 
to  distension,  invited  us  to  stop  and  take  "a  litte  chou 
chou"  with  them.  To  their  rice  they  impart  a  flavor 
by  a  small  portion  of  meat,  fish,  or  vegetables.  These 
condiments  are  generally  placed  in  appropriate  vessels 
on  the  table,  if  they  have  one,  or  on  the  ground,  in  the 
midst  of  the  circle,  as  in  the  present  instance.  Each 
one  is  supplied  with  a  bowl  of  rice,  to  which  he  con- 
veys the  more  piquant  articles,  by  means  of  two  small 
sticks  held  between  the  thumb  and  fingers  of  the  right 
hand ;  and  placing  the  bowl  in  close  vicinity,  often  in 
contact  with  the  mouth,  he  hastily  shovels  into  it  as 
much  of  the  rice  as  his  cheeks  can  well  contain* 

The  fact  in  which  we  are  the  most  interested,  and 
one  which  we  cannot  consider,  without  reflecting  up- 
on the  ignorance  and  apathy  of  the  Christian  world, 
is  the  unrestricted  intercourse  we  have  with  multi- 
tudes, who  welcome  us  to  their  huts  on  shore,  and 
come  around  us  in  the  ship,  with  all  the  ingenuous- 
ness and  docility  of  children.  If  we  knew  their  lan- 
guage, there  is  not  the  least  reason  why  we  might  not 
converse  with  them  as  freely  on  religious  subjects,  as 
on  all  others. 

26th.  As  the  ship  was  about  to  remain  at  Lintin  for 
several  days,  we  engaged  a  native  boat  to  carry  us  to 
Macao,  about  eighteen  miles,  and  started  after  break- 
fast on  Monday.  The  intervening  islands  and  distant 
hills  present  the  same  sterile,  volcanic  aspect,  and 
scarcely  an  object  of  the  least  interest  is  seen  until  the 
bay  and  town  of  Macao  open  in  delightful  contrast  to 


64  caiKA. 

the  view.  These  are  entirely  concealed  by  a  project- 
ing point  of  land,  until  you  approach  their  immediate 
vicinity.  After  fruitless  conjectures  where  a  Euro- 
pean town  of  the  least  size  could  be  situated  amid  the 
scenes  of  desolation  and  ruggedness  which  appear  from 
the  level  of  the  water,  the  change  is  sudden  and  unex- 
pected. A  long  line  of  white  European  buildings, 
winding  with  a  gentle  sweep,  around  the  crescent 
shore  of  the  bay,  large  military  and  ecclesiastical  es- 
tablishments crowning  the  summits  of  the  hills,  with 
a  motley  group  of  chapels,  and  houses  of  almost  every 
size  and  construction,  burst  upon  the  view  at  once, 
and  hold  the  mind,  for  a  moment,  in  delightful  sur- 
prise. 

Macao  stands  upon  an  island,  or  rather  the  peninsu- 
la of  an  island,  with  a  beautiful  bay  in  front,  and  a 
sheet  of  water  in  the  rear.  The  irregular  surface  of 
the  town,  changing  its  appearance  with  every  new 
position,  encompassed  with  hill  and  dale,  scattered 
villages,  and  cultivated  fields,  islets  and  bays,  with  an 
extensive  and  diversified  water  scenery,  all  beheld 
from  the  adjacent  hills,  are  the  admiration  of  its  vis- 
itors. 

Variety  is  the  most  remarkable  feature  in  the  build- 
ings. The  houses  occupied  by  foreign  merchants  are 
generally  spacious  and  well  adapted  to  the  climate. 
The  public  edifices,  and  especially  the  churches, 
though  some  of  them  are  large,  and  the  latter  nume- 
rous, display  nothing  peculiar  in  exterior  or  furni- 
ture. Much  of  the  town  is  in  possession  of  the  Chi- 
nese, and  consists,  according  to  their  taste,  of  low,  con- 
fined huts,  and  narrow,  filthy  streets.     According  to  a 


recent  estimate,  the  number  of  inhabitants  is  about  fi^ 
ty  thousand,  of  whom,  forty-five  thousand  are  said  to 
be  Chinese ;  others  suppose  the  whole  amount  does 
not  exceed  thirty,  or  thirty-five  thousand. 

Macao  is  the  residence  of  those  ladies  who  have 
accompanied  their  husbands  to  China,  and  the  sum- 
mer retreat  of  the  majority  of  foreigners  engaged  in 
commerce  at  Canton.  The  number  of  English  fami- 
lies, including  one  American,  does  not  exceed  a  dozen. 

One  of  the  principal  objects  of  curiosity,  to  the  trav- 
eler, is  the  grotto  of  Camoens,  where  the  poet  compo- 
posed  his  celebrated  Luciad.  It  is  inclosed  within 
the  pleasure  grounds  of  a  private  residence,  and  com- 
bines the  advantages  of  fine  scenery)  refreshing  air, 
and  undisturbed  retirement.  It  is  formed  of  three 
large  rocks,  two  of  which  are  upright,  and  support 
the  third.  The  place  where  he  is  reported  to  have  sat, 
is  a  small  cavity  in  one  of  the  rocks,  which  at  present 
is  occupied  by  a  representative  of  less  perishable  ma- 
terial. With  a  stern  contour,  a  martial  air,  and  the 
want  of  the  eye,  lost  in  the  Sarcaren  wars,  there  is  ve- 
ry little  to  remind  one  of  the  poet,  whose  charming 
verse,  according  to  his  countrymen,  could  scarcely  be 
surpassed. 

The  history  of  Macao  is  involved  in  considerable 
uncertainty  ;  but  those  points  of  inquiry  most  interest^ 
ing  to  the  Christian  community,  are  by  no  means  ob- 
scure. 

The  Portuguese  say  that  they  received  it  from  the 
emperor  about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century, 
as  an  expression  of  gratitude  for  expelling  a  band  of 
pirates,  who,  making  it  their  head-quarters,   infested 


66  tm^x, 

the  coast  and  blocked  up  the  port  of  Canton.  The 
Chinese  insist  upon  it,  that  the  place  was  gradually 
usurped  by  the  Portuguese,  in  their  previous  rage 
for  foreign  possessions,  and  recent  researches  show, 
that  if  the  former  are  correct,  they  cannot  produce  the 
emperor's  grant  to  prove  it.  In  whatever  way  posses- 
sion was  gained,  the  Jesuits  and  others  immediately 
took  the  colony  under  their  spiritual  charge,  erected 
churches,  founded  a  monastery  and  college,  and  open- 
ed a  communication  with  different  parts  of  the  interi- 
or. If  the  purity  of  their  faith  had  harmonized  with 
the  forceof  their  misguided  zeal,  there  is  every  reason 
to  believe  this  Pagan  empire  would  have  assumed  a 
different  aspect,  long  before  the  present.  The  truth 
would  probably  have  awakened  earlier  persecution  ; 
but  it  would  neither  have  provoked  it  by  anti-chris- 
tian  measures,  nor  suffered  so  severely  from  its  deadli- 
est rage. 

It  is  difficult  to  determine  to  what  extent  the  forces 
of  Catholicism,  have  been  weakened  in  China.  Since 
the  general  expulsion  of  the  European  priests,  num- 
bers have  ventured,  and  are  continually  venturing  in- 
to the  interior,  although  they  have  generally  been  con- 
veyed to  their  charge  in  a  clandestine  manner.  Some 
have  been  sent  from  Macao  to  Pekin,  to  supply  the 
board  of  mathematicians ;  but  the  emperor's  request, 
and  their  avov/ed  object  in  its  compliance,  were  equal- 
ly distinct  from  all  ecclesiastical  interference.  Very 
recently  one  of  them  was  transferred  from  Pekin  to 
Canton,  with  considerable  pomp,  and  with  the  inten- 
tion of  returning  to  Europe.  It  was  said  by  many, 
to  be  a  plan  of  the  emperor  to  get  him  respectably  out 


CHINA.  6T 

of  ihe  country ;  others  maintain  that  he  requested  per* 
mission  to  visit  his  aged  mother  before  her  death. 
However  this  may  be,  I  am  informed  that  at  present^ 
there  is  but  one  Roman  Cathohc  priest  employed  in 
the  emperor's  service,  and  for  the  last  twenty  years  no 
others  have  been  invited.* 

In  the  college  of  St,  Joseph,  formerly  in  the  hands 
of  the  Jesuits,  there  is  a  number  of  Chinese  youth,  ed- 
ucated at  the  expense  of  the  Portuguese  government, 
with  an  exclusive  reference  to  the  priesthood.  These 
are  ordained  as  missionaries  for  the  interior;  other  na- 
tives are  received  and  instructed  at  their  own  charges. 
Beside"  this  institution,  there  are  about  twelve  church- 
es, and  forty  priests,  for  the  limited  population,  pro- 
fessing the  Catholic  faith. 

Our  attention  was  frequently  arrested  by  flocks  of 
women,  visiting  the  different  temples,  and  we  were 
constrained  to  believe  the  season  one  of  peculiar  sanc- 
tity, or  the  place  greatly  given  to  superstition.  Whe* 
ther  the  first  conjecture  was  correct  or  not,  the  narra* 
lion  of  undisguised  facts  left  no  grounds  to  doubt  the 
other.  The  patron  saint,  or  rather  tutelar  deity  of  the 
place  is  St.  Antonio.     Having  been  skilled  in  the  use 


*  The  following  estimate  of  the  Catholic  forces  v.'as  obtained  from 
one  of  their  most  credible  priests,  by  a  professed  friend  of  both  of  us. 
Connected  with  the 

French  mission,  are  two  bishops,  four  or  five  European  misiona* 
ties,  thirty  native  missionaries,  and  fifty-one  thousand  converts. 

Portuguese  mission,  one  bishop,  one  European  missionary,  twen- 
nine  native  missionaries,  and  eighty  thousand  converts.  At  Macao 
they  have  two  seminaries,  eight  European  missionaries,  and  one 
thousand  converts. 

Italian  mission,  four  European  missionaries,  thirty  thousand 
converts. 

Spanish  mission,  one  bishop,  two  European  missionaries,  and 
thirty-five  thousand  converts, 

7 


68  CMINA. 

of  "  carnal  weapons,"  in  the  early  part  of  his  career, 
he  is  exceedingly  popular  among  the  military,  and 
represented  as  a  valuable  assistant  in  war.  When  the 
Dutch  attacked  the  place,  it  is  said  by  many,  that  he 
appeared  in  the  air,  and  routed  the  invaders  ;  others 
ascribe  the  victory  to  the  timely  aid  of  John  the  Bap- 
tist, the  battle  having  occurred  upon  his  day.  The 
Portuguese  government  allow  St.  Antonio  the  pay  of 
captain,  and  honor  him  with,  or  require  from  him  in 
return,  an  annual  feast  of  thirteen  days'  continuance. 
According  to  my  informant,  who  is  one  of  their  num* 
ber,  and  has  frequently  participated  in  the  festivities 
of  the  season,  they  suppose  it  by  nq  means  inconsis- 
tent with  the  pleasure  of  the  saint  to  indulge  in  ex- 
cesses, which  set  at  defiance  all  the  laws  of  tempe- 
rance, and  bring  their  religion  in  discredit  among 
their  heathen  neighbors.  It  is  difficult  to  con- 
ceive how  grosser  ideas  of  idolatry  could  exist,  than 
those  which  prompt  some  of  the  acts  of  their  devotion 
to  this  deified  hero.  They  are  not  satisfied  with 
''  bowing  down  before  the  graven  image  ;"  but  not  ad- 
mitthig  the  very  heathen's  distinction,  I  should  say 
his  'professed  distinction  between  the  deity  and  his 
representation,  they  carry  the  figure  in  procession, 
with  military  pomp,  to  make  an  annual  visit  to  the 
image  of  St.  Francis,  presiding  at  another  church. 

To  the  mind  of  one,  who  feels  an  interest  in  the 
conversion  of  the  world,  it  is  a  painful  circumstance^ 
that  the  only  spot  under  European  control,  in  the 
whole  empire  of  China,  should  exhibit  to  the  heathen 
the  most  gross  and  absurd  notions  of  that  holy  reli- 
gion, whose  name  they  attach  to  their  worse  than  Pa- 


CHINA.  69 

gati  abominations.  Macao  and  Manilla,  on  the  island 
of  Luzon,  which  are  among  the  most  advantageous 
freign  posts  for  Chinese  missions,  are  subject  to  a. 
power,  and  exert  an  influence  which  have  the  double 
tendency  of  keeping  the  true  light  from  entering,  and 
of  prejudicing  the  minds  of  the  heathen  against  it, 
should  it  penetrate.  The  same  anti-christian  influ- 
ence prevails  in  the  Chinese  island  of  Hainan,  where 
it  is  said  the  Catholic  religion  is  still  quite  prevalent ; 
and  in  many  of  the  adjacent  kingdoms  on  the  west 
and  south,  where  the  language  is  best  known,  and  the 
intercourse  with  China  most  frequent. 

Japan,  on  the  east,  has  been  arrayed  as  powerfully 
against  the  religion  of  the  cross,  as  satanic  malice 
could  desire ;  so  that  by  means  of  this  spurious  faith, 
the  great  enemy  of  God  and  man  has  attempted  to 
raise  impregnable  barriers  against  the  introducticn  of 
the  gospel  into  China.  But  how  vain  the  policy  and 
forces  of  hell,  though  intimidating  to  the  faithless  mind 
of  man,  to  resist  the  power  and  wisdom  which  shall 
soon  be  brought  to  bear  against  them.  Every  diffi- 
culty of  the  kind  should  but  simplify  and  strengthen 
our  faith  in  that  word,  which  is  pledged  to  destroy 
them  all,  and  the  striking  and  speedy  accomplishment 
of  which,  shall  doubtless  be  a  subject  of  admiration 
and  gratitude,  to  all  the  followers  of  Christ. 

In  the  town  and  immediate  vicinity  of  Macao,  are 
several  Chinese  temples,  to  which  a  few  priests  of  the 
Budha  sect  are  attached.  The  most  remarkable  one 
is  situated  on  the  south-west  side  of  the  town.  It 
consists  of  a  number  of  small  buildings  on  the  acclivi- 
ty of  a  steep  hill,  grouped  in  a  fanciful  manner,  with 


TO  CHINA. 

large  upright  rocks  and  overhanging  trees.  The 
rough  hnes  of  nature,  and  the  poHsh  of  art,  are  blend- 
ed in  striking  contrast,  in  this  grotesque  form  of  pagan 
superstition.  The  principal  part  of  the  time  unoccu- 
pied in  our  excursions,  was  agreeably  passed  in  the 
family  of  Dr.  Morrison,  who  had  left  the  place  but  a 
few  days  before  our  arrival.  We  were  happy  to  leani, 
that  the  Doctor  had  the  recent  gratification  of  bapti- 
zing another  native  convert.  The  English  Factory, 
during  their  semi-annual  residence  here,  are  allowed 
to  have  service  performed  by  their  chaplain,  and  Dr. 
Morrison  is  not  prevented  from  holding  a  religious  ex- 
ercise, every  Sabbath,  in  his  own  dwelling. 

On  the  morning  of  the  28th,  we  left  this  pleasant  re- 
treat,  and,  wafted  by  a  fresh  breeze,  reached  the  ship 
about  noon.  As  each  had  expected  that  some  of  the 
rest  would  cater  lor  our  breakfast,  we  were  obliged  to 
satisfy  a  craving  appetite  upon  the  boiled  rice  and 
salted  cabbage  of  our  temperate  boatmen.  On  our  ar- 
rival, we  found  that  a  small  European  vessel  had  been 
sent  for  us,  from  Canton,  but  owing  to  the  uncertain- 
ty of  our  return,  had  sailed.  The  event  left  us  to  the 
choice  of  remaining  a  number  of  days  in  the  ship,  in 
this  cold  and  rainy  season,  or  of  venturing  in  a  native 
"fast  boat,"  against  one  of  their  barbarous  prohibitions. 
We  soon  decided  on  the  latter  alternative,  and  left  the 
ship  in  the  twilight  of  evening.  We  were  obliged  to 
pass  the  night  in  an  apartment  fitted  up  for  the  lodg- 
ings of  the  boatmen,  and  the  residence  of  their  gods. 
A  group  of  small  gilded  images,  seated  in  a  shrine, 
decorated  with  colored  paper,  occupied  one  corner, 
and  received  the  homage  of  the    crew.     Before  the 


shrine  aii  incense  stick  of  fragrant  sandal-wood  was 
kept  lighted,  and  a  lamp  burning.  The  cabin,  in 
which  the  idols,  part  of  the  crew,  ourselves,  and  bag- 
gage were  stowed,  was  so  low  that  we  could  barely 
sit  upright.  After  changing  position  as  often  as  an 
opposing  wind  changed  the  course  of  our  boat,  we 
found  ourselves  at  day-break  but  a  very  short  distance 
above  the  last  fort.  This  was  a  point  of  safety,  which 
the  men  had  toiled  hard  and  silently  to  gain,  before  the 
light  should  expose  us  to  those  on  shore.  During 
the  morning,  though  they  scrutinized  with  a  good 
glass  every  object  of  suspicion,  they  appeared  to  place 
so  much  dependence  upon  the  performance  of  their 
brigantine,  and  their  own  muscular  assistance,  as  to 
dismiss  all  apprehension,  and  labor  with  much  cheerful- 
ness. Indeed,  as  far  as  we  are  '  capable  of  judging, 
liveliness  is  a  prominent  characteristic  of  the  Chinese. 

Low  lands,  appropriated  to  the  culture  of  rice,  and 
ransres  of  hills,  with  no  other  verdure  than  a  few  scat- 
tering trees,  made  up  the  scenery,  between  our  position 
at  day -break,  and  Whampoa.  A  few  temples  appear- 
ed in  different  parts  of  the  low  lands,  and  one  of  com- 
manding elevation  crowned  the  summit  of  a  high  hill. 

About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  we  reached 
Whampoa,  the  principal  anchorage  for  vessels  enga- 
ged in  lawful  traffic  with  China.  A  recent  difficulty 
with  the  government  had  detained  the  stately  ships 
employed  in  the  service  of  the  East  India  Company  ; 
and  their  yearly  fleet,  consisting  of  twenty  vessels,  or 
upwards,  with  those  of  other  nations  employed  in  the 
China  trade,  generally  of  the  largest  class,  presented 
an   array  of    naval  magnificence  unequaled  in  any 

7* 


72  CHINA. 

otlier  port.  The  number  of  seamen  engaged  in  the 
company's  service,  and  attached  to  the  shipping  in  the 
harbor,  varies  but  httle  from  three  thousand.  What 
a  congregation  might  be  gathered  from  those  who 
speak  the  Enghsh  language,  if  the  walls  of  national 
and  ecclesiastical  separation  were  entirely  demohshed, 
and  if  the  custom  of  keeping  holy  the  Lord's  day, 
were  universally  observed. 

The  distance  between  Whampoa  and  Canton  is 
about  twelve  miles.  A  strong  opposing  current  kept 
us  four  hours  on  the  way,  and  made  it  nine  in  the 
evening,  before  we  arrived.  For  some  time  after  we 
started,  the  light  of  day  disclosed  every  remarkable 
object  on  land  and  water.  Among  the  former  are 
large  pagodas,  towering  in  the  air,  and  darkened  and 
mouldering  with  age.  Two  of  them  are  situated  6n 
small  eminences,  ''  high  places,"  compared  with  the 
surrounding  country,  and  like  the  hill-capped  one  be- 
low, they  probably  appear  to  a  heathen's  mind  as  the 
presiding  genii  of  the  place.  They  are  nine  stories 
in  hight,  of  an  octagonal  form,  with  doors  or  niches 
on  each  side  of  every  story,  and  gradually  diminish- 
ing in  circumference  to  the  top.  Their  sides  and 
summits  are  partially  covered  with  shrubs  and  herbage, 
springing  from  beds  of  earth,  which  it  must  have  re- 
quired ages  to  collect,  and  consolidate. 

These  towers  were  erected  by  the  decendants  of 
Dchingis  Khan,  in  the  Yuen  dynasty,  during  the  thir- 
teenth and  fourteenth  centuries.  It  was  a  prevalent 
superstition  of  the  times,  that  they  were  effectual  in 
repressing  demoniacal  and  noxious  influences  in  the 


CMIWA.  73 

surrounding  country,  and  that  their  efficacy  was 
graduated  by  their  hight. 

As  might  be  expected,  there  is  a  great  variety  in 
the  structure  and  internal  arrangements  of  their  boats. 
Those  intended  for  sea  are  too  primitive  and  clumsy 
to  be  any  thing  but  the  products  of  the  earliest  and 
dullest  invention.  The  bow  and  stern  arise  to  a  great 
elevation,  and  present  such  a  dangerous  surface  to 
the  wind,  as  to  account  for  the  numerous  losses  sus- 
tained every  year.  European  improvements  are  dis- 
allowed. Some  of  the  small  government  barges  dis- 
play a  degree  of  taste  and  skill  in  construction,  which 
form  a  strong  contrast  to  the  mass  around  them.  The 
consequence  and  curse  of  spiritual  ignorance,  alas,  too 
common  where  that  ignorance  is  wilful,  are  apparent 
in  many  of  the  boats  decorated  and  furnished  to  decoy 
"^Ae  simj)le^'  and  lead  him  '•  into  paths  inclining  un- 
to the  dead.''' 

We  had  scarcely  gained  half  our  distance,  whon 

*  *  *  *        "  Sorrowing  we  beheld 

The  night  come  on,  but  soon  did  night  display- 
More  wonders  than  it  veiled." 

As  the  shades  of  evening  darkened  around  us,  great 
numbers  of  lamps  broke  through  the  gloom,  and  ap- 
peared either  ranged  in  rows,  almost  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  or  changing  their  position,  and  varying 
the  general  aspect,  according  to  the  different  directions 
of  the  moving  vessels.  The  scene  was  more  like 
magic,  than  reality,  and  calculated  to  awaken  ideas, 
or  call  up  visions,  which  seldom  visit  collected  minds 
in  wakeful  hours.  As  we  approached  the  city,  our 
progress  became  more  interrupted  by  the  crowds  of 


74  '  ciimi. 

boats,  and  when  we  arrived  within  a  short  distance  of 
the  landing  place,  such  was  their  density  that  the  men 
were  obliged  to  exchange  their  oars  for  short  paddles, 
and  work  their  way  through  whatever  opening  they 
could  find  or  form. 

On  Thursday,  February,  25th,  1830,  we  reached 
our  ultimate  destination,  and  were  most  kindly  receiv- 
ed by  C.  N.  Talbot,  Esq.,  the  consular  agent,*  whose 
father  and  brother  had  been  our  fellow  passengers, 
and  to  whose  hospitality  we  were  commended  by  our 
friends  in  America.  Upon  learning  our  arrival,  we 
were  visited  by  Dr.  Morrison,  who,  as  might  be  ex- 
pected, welcomed  fellow  missionaries  into  this  long 
neglected  field  with  no  ordinary  joy.  A  career  of 
more  than  two  and  twenty  years  labor,  unde^  the 
many  embarrassments  and  trials,  which  were  experi- 
enced, especially  at  first — without  the  permanent  as- 
sistance of  a  single  companion — and  particularly  after 
the  sentence  of  death  begins  to  be  felt  in  a  body  shat- 
tered by  toil  and  anxieties,  might  be  supposed  a  suffi- 
cient preparative  to  the  welcome  reception  of  those 
whose  avowed  object  is  the  same,  and  who  are  ex- 
pected to  find  their  highest  interest  in  its  promotion. 
From  many  of  the  residents,  and  especially  from  those 
of  onr  own  countrymen,  to  whom  we  had  letters,  we 
soon  enjoyed  all  those  polite  and  kind  attentions 
which  are  calculated  to  reconcile  a  stranger  to  an 
abode  in  foreign  parts. 


*  It  is  but  justice  to  mention  that  myself  and  companion  spent  all 
our  time  in  this  house,  and  received  every  possible  facility  for  the 

{>rosecuiion  of  our  duties  with  the  utmost  readiness,  and  without  the 
east  expense. 


CHAPTER    III 


CHINA CANTON    AND     ITS    VICINITY. 

It  may  be  acceptable  to  the  reader,  to  interrupt  the  . 
chain  of  events,  as  they  occurred  in  chronological  or-, 
der,  and  present  at  the  commencement  a  picture  of 
Canton,  and  its  vicinity. 

The  city  stands  upon  the  north  bank  of  the  Choo- 
keang  or  Pearl  river,  nearly  eighty  miles  from  the  sea. 
Its  site  is  almost  a  perfect  level  ;  it  is  bounded  in  the 
rear  by  a  range  of  naked,  uninteresting  hills.  Inclu- 
ding the  river  and  neighborhood,  the  population  has 
been  estimated  at  from  a  million  to  fifteen  hundred 
thousand.  The  city  itself  is  surrounded  by  walls, 
within  which  the  stranger  is  not  allowed  to  enter; 
the  suburbs  or  unwalled  town,  probably  of  equal  extent 
and  populousness,  is  accessible  to  foreigners.  There 
is  nothing  in  the  locality  of  the  place,  the  arrange- 
ment of  its  streets,  -or  the  style  of  its  buildings,  cal- 
culated to  call  forth  the  admiration  of  the  visitor. 
The  scene,  it  is  true,  affords  abundant  interest  to  the 
stranger ;  but  it  is  the  exclusive  interest  of  novelty, 
and  soon  leaves  the  mind  without  an  agreeable  recol- 
lection. The  houses  are  generally  low,  narrow,  and 
exceedingly  compact.  Some  of  the  factories  or  hongs, 
especially  those  occupied   by  the  tea-merchants,   are 


76  CHINA. 

immensely  spacious,  and  contain  a  vast  number  of 
compartments ;  but  you  are  obliged  to  enter  them  be- 
fore you  can  determine  their  locahty,  as  there  is  no- 
thing in  external  appearance  to  distinguish  them  from 
the  dense  mass  of  buildings  with  which  they  are  en- 
vironed. 

The  width  of  the  streets  varies  from  about  fifteen 
to  three  feet,  measuring  from  house  to  house,  and  the 
medium  proportion  of  the  city  would  probably  not  ex- 
ceed eight  feet.  In  passing  through  even  the  business 
districts,  I  have  frequently  extended  my  arms,  and 
reached  the  opposite  houses.  -The  principal  streets 
are  occupied  by  merchants  and  mechanics,  and  their 
shops  are  so  constructed  as  to  open  in  front,  and  ex- 
pose their  contents  to  the  observation  of  the  passenger. 
Boards,  with  large  painted  or  gilded  characters,  in- 
tended as  signs,  are  placed  before  each  door,  and, 
facing  the  direction  of  the  street,  constitute  its  most 
ornamental  objects.  The  natives  of  Canton  can  fur- 
nish you  with  the  names  of  more  than  600  streets  in 
the  city.  These  are  principally  short  and  crooked, 
although  some  of  them  extend  to  a  great  length. 
They  are  all  flagged  with  stone,  chiefly  granite. 

Trades  are  generally  found  in  close  vicinity.  The 
different  classes  of  mechanics  bind  themselves  to  cer- 
tain conventional  regulations,  and  each  party  has  a 
pubhc  hall  of  meeting  for  consultation,  feasting,  and 
dramatic  amusements.  In  the  manufactories  of  the 
city  about  17,000  persons,  including  women  and  chil- 
dren, are  employed  in  weaving  silks ;  50,000  are  or- 
dinarily occupied  in  the  manufacture  of  cloth,  and  up- 
wards of  4000  in  making  shoes.      The  number  of 


licensed  barbers  is  between  7  and  8000.  There  are 
about  2000  persons  who  obtain  a  hveUhood  from  the 
practice  of  medicine.  And  yet  it  is  thought  by  a  wri- 
ter in  the  Chinese  Repository,  that  this  large  number 
inchides  only  a  fourth  part  of  the  mechanics  and 
quacks  of  Canton,  Those  articles  most  saleable  to 
foreigners,  are  brought  to  the  streets  adjacent  the  fac^ 
tories.  It  is  a  matter  of  at  least  amusing  interest,  to  . 
examine  the  heterogeneous  contents  of  many  of  these 
shops,  and  no  less  so,  to  find  that  the  spirit  of  the  pro- 
prietor is  still  more  accommodating  than  his  well 
stored  house.  If  your  search  is  not  rewarded  with 
the  required  article,  you  have  only  to  inquire,  and  if 
attainable  any  where,  or  by  any  means,  within  your 
specified  conditions,  you  have  entered  the  right  shop 
and  need  proceed  no  farther. 

Economy  of  room,  to  the  exckision  of  comfort)  con- 
venience or  cleanliness,  appears  the  sole  object  in  the 
lanes,  where  the  women  and  children  are  kenneled. 
This  is  the  only  specimen  of  domestic  life  within  the 
allowed  range  of  the  foreigner,  and  it  is  said  that  the 
familie?  of  persons  of  considerable  wealth  are  obliged 
to  exist  under  these  circumstances.  It  requires  a  de- 
gree of  courage  and  perseverance  to  thread  the  mazes 
o[  some  of  these  alleys,  and  emerge  into  air  and  space. 
Elbows  and  angles,  of  almost  every  name,  formed  by  / 
the  blind  corners  of  buildings,  oppose  the  progress  of 
the  adventurer,  and  if  he  dare  proceed,  perplex  him 
with  their  multiplicity.  At  the  corners  of  the  streets 
are  wickets,  which  can  be  readily  closed,  and  are 
well  calculated  to  separate  a  rabble  or  confine  a  thief. 
These  are  shut  at  night,  and  guarded  by  watchmen. 


7B  GUtKli 

Notwithstanding  the  limited  space  between  the 
houses,  the  passage-way  of  the  streets  is  in  many  places 
still  more  straightened  by  the  stands  of  butchers,  fish* 
mongers,  fruiterers,  hucksters,  mechanics,  quacks^  and 
often  by  jugglers,  story-tellers,  and  gamblers,  with 
their  attendants.  As  the  articles  exposed  for  sale  in 
the  streets  are  chiefly  adapted  to  the  necessities  of  the 
day,  the  extreme,  to  which  the  principle  of  accommo- 
dation is  carried)  furnishes  a  criterion  of  the  pecunia- 
ry circmstances  of  the  mass  of  the  people.  Poultry 
and  fish  are  dissected  into  very  minute  portions.  A 
quarter  of  a  fowl,  the  head  and  neck,  and  frequently 
the  entrails  alone,  are  all  to  which  their  ability  ex- 
tends. This  of  course  is  the  luxury^  and  designed 
merely  to  give  a  relish  to  their  ordinary  and  less  ex- 
travagant fare.  Vegetables,  from  their  cheapness,  are 
so  indispensable  to  the  daily  support  of  the  commu- 
nity, that  they  are  exposed  for  sale  in  the  streets  in 
the  greatest  profusion.  Pumpkins,  melons  of  various 
kinds,  cucumbers,  carroty,  asparagus,  gourds,  squash' 
es,  tomatoes,  egg-plants,  okers,  and  winter-cherry,  be- 
sides many  species  of  leguminous  and  cruciferous 
plants,  are  extensively  cultivated  in  China.  But  the 
display  of  teas  in  the  shops  is  the  most  amusing. 
The  Chinese,  as  is  known,  universally  drink  the  black 
teas.  These  are  sold,  not  simply  according  to  their 
qualities,  but  according  to  the  strength,  which  re- 
mains, after  their  virtues  have  been  partially  and  of- 
ten  principally  extracted  by  less  indigent  purchasers. 

Fruit  abounds  in  Canton.  Indeed,  those  kinds  in- 
digenous to  temperate  regions  are  of  an  inferior  quali- 
ty, but  the  tropical  varieties  arrive  at  a  high  perfec- 


CHINA.  70 

tion,  and  a  few  species  ate  common,  which  are  desig- 
nated by  Chinese  names,  and  probably  peculiar  to  the 
empire.  Among  the  fruits  are  oranges  in  the  greatest 
variety  and  of  the  best  qualities,  lemons,  shaddocks, 
pomegranates,  grapes,  peas,  peaches,  plums,  ananas, 
bananas,  mangoes,  papaws,  le-che,  long-guen,  or-lams, 
diospyrus,  loquat,  long-hok,  hwang-pe,  carambolas, 
custard  apples,  pine  apples,  citrons,  figs,  guavas,  and 
olives.  Chesnuts,  walnuts,  filberts,  pignuts,  almonds, 
and  dates,  are  also  common  in  the  markets. 

Beside  the  vigilance  and  skill  required  in  naviga- 
ting this  channel,  so  narrowed  and  obstructed  by  the 
numerous  articles  referred  to,  it  is  necessary  to  com- 
fort and  cleanliness,  to  catch  the  warnings,  and  watch 
the  motions  of  the  porters,  who  carry  all  moveable  bo- 
dies upon  their  shoulders,  and  who  constitute  no  in- 
considerable portion  of  the  moving  multitude.  Their 
burden  is  suspended  to  the  ends  or  center  of  bamboos, 
according  to  its  separability  and  weight,  and  trans- 
ferred, however  bulky  and  ponderous,  to  any  distance, 
with  much  dispatch. 

Such  is  the  number  of  these  laborers,  that  their 
voices  are  constantly  ringing  in  your  ears,  and  such 
is  the  throng  which  opposes  them,  that  their  pro- 
gress depends  almost  as  much  on  their  lungs  as  their 
muscles. 

One  class,  called  by  the  Chinese,  "  horses  without 
tails,"  address  you  in  a  more  authoritative  tone. 
These  are  the  bearers  of  men  of  distinction  and 
wealth,  who  generally  appear  abroad  in  sedan  chairs, 
and  often  take  up  so  much  of  the  small  streets  with 

8 


8'0  cfliNi. 

their  vehicles,  as  to  leave  but  a  dangerous  space  be- 
tween them  and  the  houses. 

Among  the  objects  most  calculated  to  attract  the 
attention  and  arouse  the  sympathies  of  the  Christian, 
are  the  indices  of  their  moral  debasement.  Their 
temples  are  numerous,  their  gods  without  number. 
One  or  more  idols  are  seated  m  state,  in  every  tem- 
ple, while  others,  of  probably  inferior  dignity  and  of- 
fice, are  standing  near.  Some  of  these  are  frightful 
looking  figures  ;  all  are  gross  in  form,  answering  to 
their  notions  of  bodily  elegance,  or  rather  of  bodily 
comfort,  which  appears  to  a  Chinaman,  of  higher  im- 
portance. The  structure  of  the  temple,  as  well  as 
the  number  and  arrangement  of  the  images,  depends 
upon  the  tenets  of  the  sect  to  which  they  belong. 

The  three  leading  sects  in  China  are  known,  in  the 
Mandarin  dialect,  by  the  mames  of  .Too,  Fuh,  Taou. 
i.  e.,  the  Confucians,  Buddhists,  and  the  Taou,  or 
Alchymic  sect,  "  the  mystics  of  the  heathen  world  in 
China." 

The  first  and  last  originated  in  China,  the  other 
was  introduced  from  India,  soon  after  the  Christian 
era,  and,  principally  by  means  of  the  circulation  of 
tracts^  has  become  the  m.ost  prevalent  superstition  in 
the  empire.  In  the  year  of  our  Lord  65,  the  Empe- 
ror Ming-te  sent  a  deputation  to  India  and  invited  the 
first  priests  of  Budha  to  China.  The  Chinese  histo- 
rians affirm  that  a  dream  informing  him  that  the 
''holy  one"  was  born  in  the  west,  is  the  reason,  which 
induced  him  to  send  for  disciples  of  this  new  faith. 
In  one  of  the  Chinese  classic  odes  there  was  a  pas- 
sage which  spoke,  though  in  indefinite  terms,  of  some 


CHINA.  81 

such  event.  TUis  was  immediately  quoted  as  corrob- 
orating the  Emperor's  dream.  Buddhism  was  thus 
introduced  into  China,  under  the  most  auspicious  cir- 
cumstances ;  the  priests  were  received  with  open  arms 
by  the  court,  and  found  an  ample  and  open  field  in 
which  to  propagate  their  doctrines.  It  is  remarkable 
that  this  event  should  have  occurred  so  near  the  birth 
o£  the  "holy-one,"  if  he  were  not  the  object  of  their 
search.  The  Buddhists  and  Taou  sect  inculcate  fu- 
ture rewards  and  punishments,  decking  the  former  in 
all  the  charms  of  sensuality  and  sloth,  and  represent' 
mg  the  latter  by  every  horrid  combination  of  bodily 
torture. 

Notwithstanding  all  the  admiration  heaped  upon 
Confucius  and  his  system,  by  ignorance  in  the  empire 
and  infidelity  in  more  enlightened  parts,  that  philoso- 
pher"con!essed  that  he  "knew  but  little  about  the 
gods,  and  therefore  preferred  saying  nothing  on  the 
subject."  Respecting  the  immortality  of  the  soul,  and 
its  future  retribution,  he  advances  not  a  sentiment. 
The  common  opinion  of  his  followers  is,  that  virtue  is 
rewarded  and  vice  punished  in  the  individuals  or  in 
their  posterity  only  on  earth.  They  speak  of  the  im- 
mortal principle,  as  '•'  annihilated,"  "  melted,"  '•'  scatter- 
ed," at  death. 

Of  that  class  of  men  whom  the  Chinese  denomi- 
nate sages,  and  of  whom  Confucius  is  considered  the 
chief, — this  philosopher  has  expressed  himself  in  the 
following  eulogistic  strains  :  "  Perfection  or  sincerity 
is  the  way  to  heaven.  To  aim  at  it  is  the  duty  of 
man.  The  sincere  hit  the  due  medium  without  ef- 
fort. —obtain  it  \yithout  thought;— :aixd  practice  it  spojj* 


82  CHINA, 

taneously.  Such  are  the  sages.  It  is  only  the  man 
possessing  the  virtues  of  the  sages,  who  can  perfect 
his  own  nature.  He  who  can  perfect  his  own  nalure, 
can  perfect  the  nature  of  other  men  ;  he  who  can  per- 
fect the  nature  of  other  men,  can  perfect  the  nature  of 
things  ;  he  who  can  perfect  the  nature  of  things,  can 
assist  heaven  and  earth  in  producing  and  nourishing 
things.  When  this  is  the  case,  he  is  united  with 
heaven  and  earth  so  as  to  form  a  trinity.  To  be  uni- 
ted with  heaven  and  earth,  means  to  stand  equal  with 
heaven  and  earth.  These  are  the  actions  of  the  man 
who  is  by  nature  perfect,  and  who  needs  not  acquire 
perfection  by  study."  Such  sentiments  afford  a  strik- 
ins:  comment  on  the  confession  of  Confucius,  that  he 
knew  but  little  of  the  gods.  They  forcibly  illustrate 
the  principle  of  all  irreligion.  To  degrade  Jehov^ih 
vmtil  he  loses  his  supremacy  and  is  confounded  with 
his  creation,  or  to  exalt  man  until  he  can  claim  equali- 
ty with  his  God,  is  the  cause  and  tendency  of  every 
unchristian  and  anti-christian  system  in  the  world. 

From  one  of  the  native  books,  it  appears  there  are 
in  China  upwards  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  and 
sixty  temples  dedicated  to  Confucius.  About  sixty- 
two  thousand  victims,  bullocks,  pigs,  sheep,  deer,  are 
annually  sacrificed,  and  twenty-seven  thousand  six 
hundred  pieces  of  silk  offered  to  the  manes  of  the 
sage.  This  is  the  wisdom  of  the  learned  heathen, 
who  generally  teach  that  ''death  is  annihilation,"  and 
who  sometimes  affirm  that  there  is  neither  ^'  God,  an- 
gels, nor  spirits."  To  whom,  to  what  do  they  present 
these  offerings  ?  Like  many  in  Christian  lands,  these 
very  persons  show  the  insincerity  of  their  profession?. 


CHINA.  B3 

tii  the  prospect  of  death.  Then  the  priests  of  Budha* 
whom  they  despise  and  ridicule  in  health,  are  called 
in  to  give  the  mind  some  support  under  its  dread,  if 
not  its  consciousness  of  immortality. 

Beside  the  numerous  temples  in  the  city,  small  im- 
ages, answering  to  their  notions  of  district  gods,  are 
placed  in  the  corner  of  the  streets,  which  receive  the 
homage  of  the  neighborhood.  Not  satisfied  with 
these,  every  house  has  its  family  altar,  either  before 
the  door  or  in  the  principal  room,  frequently  in  both 
places.  Those  in  front  of  the  house  are  generally 
small  alcoves  in  a  projecting  platform,  furnished  with 
a  few  idols,  or  more  commonly  with  the  Chinese  writ- 
ten character,  signifying  God,  or  superior  being.  As 
you  walk  out  in  the  evening,  the  fumes  of  sandal- 
wood, of  which  their  incense  stick  is  made,  accost  the 
senses  in  every  direction,  and  their  light  affords  a  sub- 
stitute for  dim  lamps  in  these  narrow  streets.  These, 
with  a  few  wax  tapers,  and  one  or  two  unmeaning 
bows  of  the  person  who  prepares  them,  are  the  daily 
offerings  made  to  the  images  of  China. 

The  popular  religion  of  China,  if  definable  at  all  by 
limits  or  language,  is  probably  made  up  of  a  combina- 
tion of  tenets  held  by  the  different  sects  in  the  empire, 
with  a  mixture  of  notions  and  customs,  which  neither 
system  originated,  but  which  the  votaries  of  each  prac- 
tice. Among  these  customs,  are  sacrificing  to  the 
dead,  and  burning  gold  and  silver  paper,  on  religious 
cccasions.  If  there  be  anything,  which  to  their  minds 
appears  the  most  sacred  of  all  observances,  it  is  tlije 


*  There  ar£  no  priests  attached  to  this  sect. 
8* 


84  CHINAi 

former,  if  not  both  of  these  customs.  One  of  their 
moral  works  enjoins  the  following  practice: 

"  While  (parents  are)  alive,  on  going  out  of  doors, 
inform  them ;  on  returning,  show  them  your  face. 
When  dead,  also  when  going  abroad,  mention  it,  (be- 
fore the  tablet  which  they  set  up  in  every  house,  at  the 
decease  of  parents  and  relatives,)  when  you  return, 
keep  a  feast  before  them  :  serve  them  when  dead^jiist 
as  when  alive.^^ 

The  observance  of  the  fifteenth  day  of  the  moon 
and  of  its  full,  is  almost  universal.  With  a  people  fond 
of  sloth  and  addicted  to  sensuality,  it  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at,  that  feast  days  should  be  popular,  and 
their  frequent  recurrence  welcome  to  those  Avho 
have  the  means  of  providing  for  them.  Among  the 
most  prev^alent  of  their  doctrines,  is  the  Buddhistic  no- 
tion of  transmigration,  which  hangs  "  in  terrorem"  over 
the  more  sedate  and  thinking  class  of  the  nation.  Ac- 
cording to  the  excellent .  Dr.  Milne,*  "  W^hen  we  be- 
hold the  best  of  the  rulers  of  China,  and  the  most  en- 
lightened of  her  sages,  (e.  g.  Confucius,)  worshiping 
any  god,  or  no  god  at  all,  just  as  suited  time,  place,  and 
the  taste  of  the  age,  v/hat  shall  we  think  of  their  hearts, 
virtues,  and  productions?  Can  we  suppose  those  sys- 
tems capable  of  directing  the  bulk  of  the  people  to 
God,  which  left  their  authors  to  worship  the  heavens, 
and  the  earth,  mountains  and  rivers,  the  gods  of  the 
kitchen  and  the  spirits  of  the  dead  ?"  "  The  current 
of  Chinese  idolatry  widened  and  deepened  as  it  flow- 
ed, by  the  accession  of  tributary  streams  from  West- 

♦  In  his  retrospect  of  the  first  ten  years  of  the  Protestant  mission 
to  Chinaj  p.  28. 


CHINA.  85 

em  and  Eastern  Tartary.  Most  of  the  forms  of  my- 
thology which  make  any  figure  in  the  page  of  histo- 
ry, now  exist  in  China,  except  that  their  indecent 
parts,  and  their  direct  tendency  to  injure  human  life, 
have  been  cut  off.  China  has  her  Diana,  her  ^olus, 
her  Ceres,  her  Esculapius,  her  Mars,  her  Mercury,  her 
Neptune,  and  her  Pluto,  as  well  as  the  western  Pa- 
gans had.  To  use  their  own  expression,  '  her  gods 
are  in  number  like  the  sands  of  Hang  river.'  She  has 
gods  celestial,  terrestrial  and  subterraneous — gods  of 
the  hills,  of  the  valleys,  of  the  woods,  of  the  districts, 
of  the  family,  of  the  shop,  and  of  the  kitchen.  She 
adores  the  gods  who  are  supposed  to  preside  over  the 
thunder,  the  rain,  the  fire,  over  the  grain,  over  births 
and  deaths,  and  over  the  small-pox.  She  also  wor- 
ships the  genii  of  the  mountains,  rivers,  lakes,  and 
seas,  together  with  birds,  beasts  and  fishes." 

"Astrology,  divination,  geomancy  and  necromancy, 
every  where  prevail ;  spells  and  charms  every  one 
possesses." 

As  might  be  expected,  the  god  of  wealth  is  the  most 
popular  deity  among  the  tradesmen  and  merchants. 
He  is  represented  with  a   wedge  of  gold  in  one  hand. 

On  the  door  of  their  houses  a  figure  is  painted, 
which  they  call  the  god  of  the  door.  His  protection 
is  deemed  of  incalculable  importance  to  the  family. 
The  inscription  of  his  name  is  often  employed  as  a 
substitute. 

There  is  scarcely  any  thing,  which  more  immedi- 
ately fixes  the  eye  of  a  foreigner  in  the  streets  of  Can- 
ton, than  the  puny  feet  and  waddling  gait  of  the  fair 
sex.     This  strange  freak  of  fashion  must  be  seen  to 


^r>  '  CHINA. 

be  conceived.  After  such  a  distortion — such  an  ab* 
soUite  robbery,  the  term  foot  becomes  a  misnomer. 
There  is  nothing  left  in  its  natural  position  ;  but  the 
great  toe,  if  great  applies  to  such  an  object,  while  all 
the  others  are  wrested  from  their  appointed  locality 
and  office,  bent  under  the  ball  of  the  foot,  and  then 
made  to  answer  the  purpose  of  the  sole.  This  ac- 
counts for  their  painful  gait.  The  ancle  is  not  uni- 
formly enlarged ;  though  it  has  this  general  appear- 
ance. If  the  Chinese  estimate  be  correct,  the  small- 
est feet  do  not  exceed  three  inches  in  length — proba- 
bly another  inch  ought  to  be  added.  Between  this 
extreme  of  refinement  and  the  ordinary  dimensions 
of  the  human  foot,  there  is  every  possible  variety  of 
size  and  shape  in  China.  The  custom  of  compressing 
the  feet  is  not  restricted  to  the  highest  circles.  The 
laws  of  fashion  are  quite  as  imperious  among  the  hea- 
then, as  in  more  enlightened  countries.  Those  who 
can  obtain  a  subsistence  without  the  necessity  of 
much  locomotion,  are  submitted  to  this  barbarous  tor- 
ture. The  poverty  of  the  mass  is  too  excessive  to  ad- 
mit of  a  compliance,  although  occasionally  you  find 
women  in  mendicant  poverty  tottering  through  the 
streets,  in  pursuit  of  their  daily  support.  These  it  is , 
6aid,  have  been  reduced  in  pecuniary  circumstances. 
The  fraternity  of  beggars  are  objects  of  true  com- 
passion, and  thrust  themselves  into  notice  in  Canton. 
This  class  is  very  numerous  in  China,  and  whether  an 
indispensable  requisite  for  ofiice,  or  a  necessary  argu- 
ment to  the  sympathies  of  a  Chinaman,  there  are 
very  few  exceptions  to  universal  and  total  blindness. 
When  alone,  each  one  feels  his  way  with  a  stick ;  but 


CHINA.  '  67 

frequentlvj  a  number  string  themselves  in  a  row,  and 
depend  upon  the  sagacity  of  a  blind  leader,  or  the  more 
favored  eyes  of  a  youthful  guide.  The  success  of 
their  application  depends  upon  the  skillful  use  of  bam- 
boo sticks,  iron  pans,  musical  instruments,  and  their 
own  vocal  powers  ;  and  such  is  the  force  t>f  custom, 
that  when  thoy  enter  a  house,  they  are  never  expelled 
Uiitil  their  object  is  gained.  It  is  policy  not  to  be  too 
hasty  in  acceding  to  their  requests,  otherwise  the  same 
grating  application  is  likely  to  be  forthwith  repeated, 
by  an  instinctive  successor,  who  never  interrupts  mu- 
sic, nor  suffers  a  long  pause.  Groups  of  them  frequent- 
ly unite,  and  set  up  a  concert  of  all  their  instruments 
in  one  place.  As  you  walk  through  the  streets  some 
days,  there  is  scarcely  a  shop  from  which  these  sounds 
do  not  proceed. 

One  company  sally  forth  at  twilight,  and  go  the 
founds  of  some  of  the  principal  streets,  contiguous  to 
•the  factories,  including  the  walk  in  front  of  the  foreign 
buildings.  Their  application  is  usually  chanted  in 
mournful  strains,  and  the  whole  region  is  made  vocal 
with  their  loud  and  dissonant  voices.  A  Chinaman 
^  is  stationed  before  the  factories,  ycleped  "  king  of  the 
beggars,"  who  preserves  order  among  them  in  his  do- 
minions. 

There  is  said  to  be  an  organized  association  of  beg-, 
gars,  in  Canton,  consisting  of  about  one  thousand  mem- 
bers, and  bearing  the  epithet  of  "  The  Heavenly  Flow- 
er Society."  These  pay  a  fee  of  admittance,  bind 
themselves  to  certain  rules,  and  when  disobedient  in- 
cur a  severe  penalty.  The  government  recognizes  jv 
phjef  among  them,  who  is  i^iade  accountable  for  th^ 


355  CHINA. 

whole  community.  Still  lower  in  the  scale  of  human 
degradation,  are  a  few  of  the  most  loathsome  and  mis- 
erable beings  I  ever  beheld.  With  matted  hair,  bodies 
partially  incrusted  with  dirt,  and  covered  with  vermin, 
and  but  a  tattered  mat  to  conceal  their  nakedness,  they 
wander  about,  eating  the  rejected  offals  of  fish  and  ve- 
getables, and  lodging  on  whatever  heap  of  rubish  they 
may  stumble  over  when  sleepy.  Some  of  them  are 
outcast  lepers,  who  are  obliged  by  law  to  wear  a  pe- 
culiar hat  and  mat  around  the  shoulders,  to  designate 
them  as  objects  of  infection. — See  Leviticus  xiii.    45. 

Surrounded  by  the  city,  or  the  unwalled  town, 
which  has  been  described,  and  in  a  line  with  the  river, 
are  the  buildings  termed  factories,  which  are  assign e(i 
to  the  foreign  residents  in  Canton.  They  are  sepa- 
rated from  the  shore  of  the  river,  by  the  largest  and 
almost  the  only  open  space  in  the  vicinity.  The  twa 
occupied  by  the  agents  of  the  Dutch  and  English  com- 
panies, have  extensive  verandahs  in  front,  and  walks* 
inclosed  by  high  walls  to  the  water's  edge.  Most  of 
them  are  built  in  a  row,  and  extend  probably  one  hun- 
dred yards  in  front.  A  street  and  a  large  projecting 
building,  occupied  by  one  of  the  hong  merchants,  sep- 
arates this  row  from  others,  known  by  the  name  of  the 
French  and  Danish  factories.  All  the  factories  extend 
in  blocks,  to  an  irregular  depth,  and  are  separately  oc- 
cupied by  merchants  and  visitors.  The  communica- 
tion is  an  avenue,  generally  through  the  lower  story 
of  each,  or  between  distinct  compartments.  The  ap- 
pearance of  these  buildings  is  quite  imposing,  especial^ 
ly  in  contrast  with  the  neighborhood. 

The  open  space  before  the  factories  is  the  rendez^ 


tntsA.  8^ 

Vous  of  multitucles  of  the  natives,  who  assemble  daily 
to  transact  business,  gratify  curiosity,  or  murder  time. 
It  is  level,  for  a  short  distance,  beyond  which  it  stretch- 
es over  a  large  pile  of  rubbish,  deposited  here  after  the 
desolating  fire  of  1822,  and  retained,  notwithstanding 
numerous  applications  for  its  removal,  as  a  lasting  and 
growing  nuisance  to  foreigners. 

As  the  morning  opens  upon  this  scene,  silence  re- 
tires, and  the  ears  of  the  stranger  are  assailed  by  a 
new  and  peculiar  combination  of  sounds.  Human 
voices  of  harsh,  drawling  tones,  cries  of  confined  dogs 
and  cats,  screams  of  roughly  handled  poultry,  notes  of 
feathered  songsters,  some  of  them  admirably  gifted  and 
trained,  with,  at  times,  an  accompaniment  of  very  un- 
musical instruments,  all  unite  in  this  inharmonious 
concert. 

The  occupations  of  the  tradesmen  are  varied.  Meat, 
fish,  vegetables,  fruit,  drugs,  manufactures,  every  thing 
saleable  is  brought  to  this  general  market.  A  num- 
ber convey  their  portable  kitchens  hither,  and  prepare 
such  dishes,  as  suit  the  palates  and  purses  of  this  pro- 
miscuous concourse.  Others  plant  their  barber's  shop, 
or  its  necessary  apparatus,  in  a  convenient  place,  and 
spend  their  leisure  hours  in  lolling  about,  and  conver-  / 
sation.  Those  who  frequent  the  place  for  trade,  are 
probably  less  numerous  than  the  groups  of  idlers,  who 
pass  their  time  in  listening  to  stories,  witnessing  jug- 
gling tricks,  attending  the  operations  and  lectures  of 
empirics,  gaping  at  objects  of  novelty,  and  too  fre- 
quently endeavoring  to  obtain  each  others  money  by 
gambling. 

When  the  crowd  presses  too  closely  upon  any  of 


90  CHINA. 

these  exhibitors,  they  have  the  most  ludicrous  and  ef- 
fectual mode  of  enlarging  the  circle.  With  impertur- 
bable grarity,  they  draw  from  their  pockets  a  cord, 
with  a  bullet  attached  to  the  end,  and  then  closing 
their  eyes,  to  exclude  partiality,  they  whirl  it  around 
over  their  heads,  gradually  letting  out  the  cord,  and 
iucreasing  the  rapidity,  until  it  comes  whizzing  before 
the  faces  of  the  intruders,  and  drives  them  back  to  the 
required  distance. 

When  the  sun  is  oppressive,  the  crowd  retires,  with 
the  exception  of  the  hucksters,  who  intercept  his  with- 
ering beams  by  temporary  tilts.  The  erection  of  tents 
is  a  liberty  not  sanctioned  by  law,  or  rather  contrary 
to  the  oral  prohibitions  of  the  petty  officers,  who  have 
the  square  in  charge.  Consequently  when  men  of  au- 
thority make  their  appearance,  the  scene  suddenly 
changes.  From  the  moment  of  alarm,  there  is  the 
most  hasty  dispatch,  until  every  thing  is  removed  that 
militates  against  their  orders.  Their  exit  appears  to 
^^^36  regarded  as  the  signal  of  relevation,  and  all  things 
speedily  revert  to  their  former  state.  Such  a  show  of 
subjection,  with  real  contempt  for  authority,  when  it 
opposes  individual  gain,  is  said  to  be  a  prominent  fea- 
ture of  the  nation. 

The  projecting  building  referred  to  as  the  only  one 
occupied  by  Chinamen,  in  the  row,  is  so  situated,  as 
to  throw  its  shade  as  the  sun  declines,  directly  before 
the  American  hong  or  factory.  This  is  the  place  of 
general  concourse,  from  the  middle  of  the  afternoon 
until  evening,  and  the  crowd  being  then  most  concen- 
trated, the  clamor  is  quite  deafening.  Neither  is  the 
darkness  of  night  always  attended  with  its  appropriate 


stillness,  for  though  the  rabble  of  the  day  disperses, 
there  is  another  company,  priucipally  the  coolies  of 
the  factories,  who,  with  a  few  noisy  cooks,  anxious  to 
apprise  the  neighborhood  of  their  presence,  continue 
their  conversations  and  engagements  until  a  late  hour. 

The  insatiable  curiosity  of  many,  who  appear  daily 
before  the  factories,  is  both  amusing  and  annoying. 
Groups  of  strangers  frequently  visit  the  square,  and 
probably  having  formed  no  correct  idea  of  the  style  of 
the  buildings,  and  the  appearance  of  foreigners,  gaze 
upon  every  novel  object  with  a  fixedness  of  posture  and 
vision,  approaching  to  statues.  If  you  expose  your- 
self in  the  verandah,  they  generally  stand  in  full  view 
before  it ;  and  if  you  walk  in  front  of  the  buildings, 
they  linger  as  near  your  track  as  possible,  and  con- 
tinue to  stare  as  though  riveted  by  a  magic  spell. 
Though  tumultuous,  there  is  in  general  very  little  cour 
lention  among  this  concourse.  The  least  appearance  of 
an  unlawful  commotion  calls  forth  a  public  officer,  who 
resides  for  the  purpose  in  full  view,  and  is  exceeding* 
ly  efficient  in  quelling  a  riot,  and  scattering  offenders. 
When  occasion  requires,  he  summons  to  his  aid  one 
or  two  lictors,  who,  armed  with  scourges,  and  appa- 
rently vested  with  discretionary  power  in  their  use, 
occasion  a  precipitant  retreat.  The  guilty  are  fre- 
quently chased,  and  when  caught,  dragged  along  to 
the  hall  of  justice,  by  their  pendent  cues,  which ,  are 
cruelly  drawn  over  the  front  of  the  head,  and  made  to 
press  the  face  toward  the  ground. 

In  surveying  this  mass  of  accountable  beings,  there 
are  many  points  of  great  interest  to  attract  the  eye  of 
Christian    compassion    and    benevolence*      Indepen* 

9 


92  CHIKA. 

dently  of  the  '-atheistic  and  hopeless"  condition  of 
all  the  heathen,  there  are  facts  of  importance  peculiar 
to  this  daily  throng.  Great  numbers  of  them  can 
read,  and  are  attracted  by  every  publication  that  meets 
their  eyes.  It  is  customary  to  paste  up  advertise- 
ments in  the  most  public  places  of  the  square  and  the 
streets,  and  the  groups  generally  found  throughout  the 
day  gathered  around  them,  show  their  eagerness  to 
catch  at  every  piece  of  information.  Many  of  these 
hand-bills  set  forth  the  pretensions  of  quacks,  and  are 
often  of  such  an  immoral  character,  as  prove  that  God 
has  indeed  "  given  the  people  up  to  vile  affections." 
who  can  endure  them.  What  a  place  for  the  ope- 
rations of  the  press,  sacred  to  the  cause  of  the  Re- 
deemer. 

Another  fact  of  interest  is,  that  this  daily  multitude 
consists  of  persons  from  different  parts  of  the  interior, 
as  well  as  the  immediate  vicinity.  If  business  or 
pleasure  brings  them  to  the  city,  they  can  scarcely 
possess  the  characteristic  curiosity  of  the  nation,  if 
they  return  without  a  visit  to  "the  thirteen  hongs,"  as 
the  foreign  buildings  are  universally  designated. 

Though  eligible  on  account  of  its  situation.  Can- 
ton is,  in  many  respects,  the  least  favorable  position  in 
the  empire  for  the  direct  efforts  of  the  missionary. 
The  jealous,  exclusive  policy  of  the  government  lias 
subjected  the  foreigner  to  such  restricted  liberty  of  in- 
tercourse with  the  natives,  that  very  little  can  be 
openly  attem.pted  for  their  benefit.  A  strange  system 
of  securityship  has  been  imposed,  by  which  every 
foreigner  is  so  associated  with  the  Chinese  who  reside 
in  his  family,   or  transact  his  business,  that  the  latter 


CHINA.  ^3 

are  held  responsible  for  the  good  conduct  of  the  for- 
mer. The  fear  of  having  the  innocent  suffer  by  the 
hand  of  legalized  oppresssion  prevents  the  missionary 
from  those  aggressive  measures  which  he  would 
adopt,  if  the  hazard  of  his -own  safety  were  the  only' 
result.  Since  the  former  edition  of  this  journal,  two 
attempts  have  been  made  to  punish  the  native  Chris- 
tians and  their  assistants,  for  printing  and  circulating 
the  Christian  books.  One  rule  of  action  however, 
should  never  be  forgotten  by  those  who  engage  in 
works  of  beneficence  for  China — a  formal  petition  is 
seldom  accorded,  however  insignificant  its  object,  while 
on  the  other  liand  many  plans  may  be  successfully 
prosecuted,  if  you  ask  no  questions,  and  heed  no  con- 
sequences. The  old  adage  is  strictly  applicable  to 
China  and  other  eastern  countries,  "  nothing  venture, 
nothing  gain," 

The  necessity  of  having  the  Scriptures  translated, 
and  other  preparatory  works  of  indispensable  import- 
ance accomplished,  have  not  only  consumed  the  time 
of  the  senior  missionary,  but  imposed  upon  him  an 
obligation  to  leave  experiments  to  those  whose  pre- 
sence could  be  more  easily  dispensed  with — who  have 
not   the  first  toils  of  a  mission  before  them. 

It  has  been  mentioned  that  the  Choo-keang,  or 
Pearl  river,  runs  in  front  of  the  factories,  and  forms 
the  southern  boundary  of  Canton.  In  passing  to  and 
from  the  shipping,  I  had  a  favorable  opportunity  for 
viewing  the  numerous  boats,  which  on  our  arrival, 
were  partially  obscured  by  the  shades  of  night.  The 
magic  appearance  of  the  first  evening  had  principally 
vanished,     Ignorant  of  the  locality  of  the  city,  it  was 


94  CHINA, 

quite  evident  that  same  of  the  Hghts  on  shore  had 
been  mistaken  for  those  in  the  boats^  and  the  level  site 
of  the  city,  for  extensive  water  scenery.  ^Yet  enougli 
remained  to  attract  and  distract  the  attention,  and  to 
keep  the  mind  in  a  glow  of  excitement.  The  boats 
are  much  more  numerous  abreast  of  the  city,  and  op- 
posite the  villages  bordering  on  the  river,  than  in  the 
intervening  waters.  These  are,  for  the  most  part,  the 
residences  of  families }  and  as  the  owners  of  many  of 
them  are  employed  on  shore,  they  are  kept  more  sta- 
tionary than  the  others.  This,  however,  is  not  so 
much  the  result  of  choice,  or  inability  on  the  part  of 
the  women  to  manage  their  boats,  as  it  is  the  want  of 
an  adequate  inducement  to  change  their  position. 
Even  children  of  both  sexes,  as  soon  as  they  are 
capable  of  assisting,  are  taught  to  labor  to  the  ex- 
tent of  their  strength;  so  that  the  absence  of  the  fa- 
ther and  husband  is  no  preventive  to  any  undertaking, 
if  sufficiently  profitable.  When  the  parties  are  depen- 
dent for  a  livelihood,  upon  the  hire  of  their  boats,  the 
women  appear  to  labor  quite  as  diligently  as  the  men  ; 
by  which  means  they  acquire  all  the  dexterity  and  en- 
durance, and  I  may  add,  coarseness,  of  which  human  na- 
ture is  susceptible.  It  is  not  uncommon  to  see  them  tug- 
ging at  the  oar,  with  an  infant  tied  to  their  backs,  and 
its  head,  if  feeble,  keeping  time  to  the  motion  of  the 
mother's  body. 

Such  is  the  multitude  and  density  of  these  dwell- 
ings in  some  favorite  regions,  that  they  often  conceal 
a  large  surface  of  the  element  on  which  they  rest,  and 
appear  jumbled  together  in  a  solid  mass.  In  other 
places  they  are  arranged  with  contiguous  sides,  and 


CHINA.  95 

ejitend  from  each  shore,  so  as  to  leave  about  a  third, 
of  the  river  clear.  Groups  of  them  are  often  detach- 
ed from  the  land,  and  moored  in  regular  rows  ;  afford- 
ing the  facilities  of  communication  among  themselves, 
and  preventing  intercourse  with  the  shore.  Beside 
these  family  boats,  there  are  many  others  of  much 
larger  dimensions,  which  are  employed  in  transfer- 
ring articles  of  commerce  between  different  parts  of 
the  empire,  and  Canton. 

Transient  vessels  generally  select  the  center  of  the 
river  for  an  anchorage,  and  yielding  to  the  force  of  a 
powerful  current,  range  in  the  direction  of  the  stream. 
Besides  these  clusters  of  vessels,  there  are  numbers  of 
insulated  crafts,  of  different  sizes,  scattered  in  every 
direction,  and  equally  tending  to  obstruct  the  passage 
of  the  river.  In  fact,  it  is  necessary  to  '^ceep  a  sharp 
look-out,"  and  to  steer,  in  places,  the  most  crooked 
course,  to  avoid  the  contact  of  stationary  and  moving 
boats.  One  class  of  these  dwellings,  and  it  comprises 
a  large  number,  is  composed  of  the  sties  of  a  degra- 
ded portion  of  the  community,  many  of  whom,  it  is 
said,  are  early  sold,  by  their  inhuman  parents,  to  per- 
petual infamy  and  wretchedness.  These  are  distin- 
guished from  all  the  rest,  by  the  superior  style  of  their 
structure  and  embellishments. 

It  is  a  singular  fact,  that  the  Chinese  look  upon 
those  who  dwell  in  boats  as  a  distinct  race  from  them- 
selves. They  consider  them  a  low,  alien  people,  and 
refuse  to  intermarry  with  them.  Tradition  says,  that 
they  came  from  outside  the  mouth  of  the  river.  The 
grandfather  of  the  present  emperor  was  the  first  who 

*9 


96  CHINA. 

naturalized  them.  Before  his  time  they  were  not  per- 
mitted to  land. 

Neither  is  the  whole  water  population  confined  to 
floating-  residences.  Houses  erected  on  piles,  and  su- 
perior to  the  ordinary  influence  of  wind  and  tide,  ex- 
tend, in  some  places,  a  considerable  distance  from  the 
shore  opposite  to  Canton.  Between  the  villages,  as 
has  been  stated,  the  boats  are  less  numerous;  but 
as  might  be  supposed,  there  are  numbers  constantly 
passing,  besides  many  engaged  in  fishing,  or  whatever 
employment  may  offer  along  the  shore.  Their  vessels 
of  war  indicate,  either  an  amicable  disposition,  a  friend- 
ly neighborhood,  or  a  great  deficiency  of  skill  in  na- 
val architecture.  The  strength  of  their  materials 
would  give  them  a  defensive  advantage ;  but  they  are 
built  on  an  antiquated  and  clumsy  model,  and  neither 
calculated  to  contend  with  a  tumultuous  sea,  nor  to 
confront  a  modern  foe. 

In  connection  with  these,  a  number  of  galliots  are 
employed  by  government  to  defend  the  trade,  and  pre- 
vent the  depredations  of  the  ladrones,  or  pirates,  by 
whom  the  rivers  and  coasts  were  formerly  much  in- 
fested. These  are  well  built,  and  generally  manned 
by  as  many  rowers  as  can  occupy  the  seats  and  em- 
ploy the  oars  with  advantage.  But  alas  !  though 
superstition,  or  old  custom,  has  furnished  them  all 
with  eyes  ;*  they  appear  capable  of  seeing  but  one  ob- 
ject, and  in  the  pursuit  of  that  they  stop  not  to  inquire 
whether  friend  or  foe  suffers.  All  these  unprincipled 
officers  of  government  can  be  bribed,  and  that  to  the 

♦  Every  Chinese  boat,  of  any  size,  has  two  large  eyes  painted — 
one  on  each  side  of  the  bow. 


CHINA.  97 

connivance  and  even  prosecution  of  a  traffic,  (the 
opium  trade,)  which  is  not  only  interdicted  by  the 
laws  of  the  country,  but  the  destruction  of  its  vital 
interests. 

Among  these  fiuviatic  tribes,  every  convenience  of 
land  as  well  as  water,  is  enjoyed.  Eatables,  sacrifi- 
cial materials,  and  other  articles  of  equal  demand,  are 
furnished  to  their  hand;  while  barbers,  play-actors, 
and  all  who  can  reap  advantage  by  administering  to 
their  comfort  or  amusement,  pursue  the  same  system 
of  mutual  accommodation. 

The  appearance  of  the  river  is  by  no  means  an  in- 
correct barometer,  indicating  especially  those  great 
changes  in  the  atmosphere,  which  are  subjects  of  ap- 
prehension to  these  experienced  weather  spies.  The 
difference  between  the  water  scenery  in  a  fair  day, 
and  a  storm,  or  the  prospect  of  a  gale,  is  very  striking. 
One  would  scarcely  believe,  that  the  numbers  which 
appear  so  thickly  congregated  in  different  parts  of  tlie 
river,  in  good  weather,  could  crowd  in  the  compass 
which  confines  them,  when  danger  is  feared.  In 
times  of  apprehension,  the  river  appears  as  clear  as 
those  of  other  countries ;  its  width  is,  of  course,  con- 
siderably contracted  by  the  boats  closely  ranged  along 
the  shores. 

Of  all  the  different  descriptions  of  craft,  there  are 
very  few  destitute  of  shrines,  images,  or  some  inscrip- 
tions, and  the  necessary  apparatus  for  their  daily  of- 
ferings. Every  morning  and  evening,  and  at  what- 
ever season  evils  are  deprecated,  or  special  blessings 
craved,  they  fly  to  their  altar,  apply  a  piece  of  conse- 
crated paper,  oiled  for  the  purpose,  to  the  burning 


98  CHINA. 

lamp,  or  incense  stick,  and  when  it  blazes  tlirow  it 
into  the  water,  and  bow  to  the  imaginary  spirit  ol  the 
deep. 

By  a  recent  statement,  the  number  of  family  boats 
subject  to  an  annual  tax,  in  the  vicinity  of  Canton 
alone,  is  computed  at  fifty  thousand ;  while  the  larger 
vessels  employed  between  Canton  and  Whampoa,  are 
estimated  at  eighteen  thousand  more.  Nehher  does 
this  furnish  an  adequate  view  of  the  vast  number  of 
perishing  idolaters,  who  inhabit  the  waters  of  this 
region.  The  amount  is  greatly  swelled  by  the  men 
employed  in  the  large  canal  boats,  which  ply  between 
this  port  and  diiferent  parts  of  the  interior,  and  by  the 
crews  of  the  junks  employed  in  the  coasting  trade, 
numbers  of  which  are  constantly  lying  in  harbor.  A 
communication  is  kept  up  between  Canton  and  every 
part  of  tha  empire,  and  if  the  former  maintain  its  com- 
mercial advantages,  and  receive  from  Christians  the 
attention  it  merits,  it  must  becom.e  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant mission  stations  in  the  world. 

One  of  the  principal  modes  of  recreation  among 
foreigners,  is  rowing  and  sailing  in  small  boats,  which 
they  keep  for  the  purpose.  In  these  excursions,  you 
are  often  obliged  to  pass  through  fleets  of  native  craft, 
and  thus  you  come  in  contact  with  crowds  of  persons 
who  might  be  taught  and  furnished  with  books.  It 
is  true,  they  evince  a  shyness  toward  foreigners,  which 
may  be  partially  inspired  by  the  officers  of  govern- 
ment ;  but  it  is  a  question  whether  this  might  not  be 
overcome  by  a  little  perseverance,  and  whether,  when 
it  had  become  a  common  practice,  it  would  not  cease 
to  awaken  suspicion. 


CHINA.  99 

July  6th. — Opposite  to  Canton  is  the  island  of  Ho- 
nam,  so  called  from  its  situation  on  "  the  south  side  of 
the  river."  As  this  is  the  only  place  in  the  vicinity, 
where  country  scenery  can  be  enjoyed,  we  have  been 
in  the  habit  of  making  it  the  scene  of  an  occasional 
ramble.  After  passing  through  a  number  of  narrow, 
filthy  lanes,  you  emerge  into  an  extensive  champaign, 
and  have  the  liberty  of  wandering  as  far  as  health  or 
inclination  dictates. 

The  land  is  principally  low — partially  inundated 
by  the  tide  waters,  and  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of 
rice,  for  which  it  is  well  adapted.  Where  its  sur- 
face is  not  too  level  and  saturated,  it  is  arranged 
in  terraces,  and  planted  with  a  great  variety  of  ve- 
getables, ginger,  a  species  of  indigo,  <fec.  The  fields 
are  divided  by  ridges,  which  answer  for  walks,  and 
are  generally  flagged  with  a  coarse  granite.  With 
the  exception  of  a  very  few  scattered  houses,  the  farm- 
ers reside  in  villages,  surrounded  with  walls.  These 
villages  we  have  often  approached,  though  at  times  it 
has  been  necessary  to  avoid  them,  to  keep  without  the 
reach  of  the  stones  and  dirt,  with  which  the  boys  oc- 
casionally annoyed  us.  Almost  every  piece  of  rising' 
ground  is  consecrated  to  the  burial  of  the  dead ;  and 
the  vast  multitudes  crowded  together  in  these  spacious 
cemeteries,  proclaim  the  dominion  of  the  king  of  ter- 
rors. We  were  interested  in  the  examination  of  the 
bridges  thrown  across  the  natural  and  artificial  streams ; 
the  strength  of  their  materials,  and  firmness  of  their 
structure,  appeared  as  though  they  had  survived,  and 
would  long  defy  the  waste  of  ages.  Some  of  the  slabs 
of  granite  were  twenty-four  feet  in  length. 


100  CHINA. 

But  the  greatest  object  of  curiosity  is  the  large  Pa- 
gan estabUshmeiit,  belonging  to  the  sect  of  Budha.  It 
is  situated  near  the  margin  of  the  river,  is  enclosed  by 
a  wall,  and  includes  within  its  limits  an  area  of  a  num- 
ber of  acres.  As  you  enter  the  gate,  the  eye  is  ar- 
rested by  a  iew  majestic  banjans,  which  appear  to  have 
withstood  the  storms  of  centuries,  and  found  a  conge- 
riial  soil  within  these  sacred  precincts.  Passing  up  a 
central  walk,  the  avenue  leads  through  two  buildings, 
a  short  distance  apart,  in  each  of  which  are  seated  col- 
lossal  figures,  intended  as  warders  to  the  temple.  The 
countenance  and  attitude  of  some  of  them,  are  intend- 
ed to  express  the  deepest  rage.  A  little  farther  are 
two  buildings  directly  opposite  to  each  other,  to  which 
flagged  walks  branch  off  from  the  main  avenue. 
These  contain  a  number  of  famous  military  demi- 
gods ;  one  of  which  has  been  adopted  as  the  patron 
deity  of  the  reigning  family.  After  this,  you  come 
successively  to  three  large  halls,  interrupting  the  cen- 
tral walk,  and  containing  a  variety  of  idols  of  different 
dimensions  and  appearances.  In  one  of  them  are  seated 
three  huge  figures,  designed  to  illustrate  the  trine  man- 
ifestations of  Budha,  the  past,  present,  and  future. 
Eighteen  images,  the  disciples  of  Budha,  are  arranged 
on  each  side  of  the  hall.  "  The  Manchou  Tartar 
iainily,  on  the  throne  of  China,''  say  its  monarch?, 
■'are  these  disciples  of  Budha,  appearing  again  on  the 
stage  of  the  world,  according  to  their  ideas  of  the  Me- 
temphsycosis." 

Each  of  these  principal  halls  contains  a  number  of 
ornamental  pillars.  Their  roofs  are  generally  made 
to  project,  with  the  low  and  convex  sweep  of  primitiva 


CtilNA.  101 

architecture,  and  decorated  with  grotesque  monsters^ 
intended  to  represent  dragons  and  lions. 

Beside  these  principal  buildings,  there  are  others 
situated  on  each  side  of  the  inclosed  space,  employed 
as  cells  for  lodging,  a  dining  apartment,  idol  halls,  a 
printing  room,  pens  for  animals,  and  whatever  is  ne- 
cessary for  the  support  of  their  worship  and  them- 
selves. Their  library  contains  books  of  many  sizes 
and  forms,  chiefly  prayers  untranslated  from  the  Pali, 
or  sacred  language. 

No  free-will  offering  to  their  gods  is  considered 
more  acceptable  than  living  domestic  animals,  lib- 
erally supported  until  death.  These  are  most  carefully 
preserved  and  feasted,  until  choked  with  fat,  or  worn 
but  with  age.  The  eyes  of  some  of  the  hogs  are  en- 
tirely concealed  ;  a  deep  crevice  designates  the  place 
of  their  interment. 

The  whole  number  of  priests  belonging  to  the  es- 
tablishment, is  between  one  and  two  hundred.  There 
is  evidently  a  great  distinction  in  rank  among  them. 
Some  are  respectable  in  appearance,  and  much  re- 
spected— others  are  clothed  in  rags,  and  beg  along  the 
streets  of  Canton. 

We  saw  about  seventy  engaged  in  their  dailj?^  de- 
votions, in  one  of  the  largest  halls.  The  youngest 
was  perhaps  twelve  years  of  age,  and  the  eldest  pass- 
ing threescore  and  ten.  They  were  all  dressed  in 
their  robes,  and  spent  about  an  hour  in  droning  their 
cabalistic  words,  aided  and  timed  by  the  beat  of  metal 
vessels.  During  the  hour,  they  passed  through  the 
diiFerent  attitudes  of  kneeling,  knocking  their  heads, 


102  CHINA. 

Standing,  bowing,  and  walking  in  single  file  around 
the  hall. 

The  whole  spectacle  was  calculated  to  impress  a 
feeling  heart  with  compassion.  It  was  deeply  affect* 
ing  to  see  so  many,  apparently  in  the  last  stage  of  this 
probationary  existence,  trusting  to  a  delusion  which 
had  impressed  its  own  unmeaningness  upon  their 
countenances,  while  the  younger  ones  were  early  im- 
bibing the  same  stupefying  lesson* 

In  all  our  rambles  through  the  country  and  villages 
of  Honam,  there  has  been  nothing  to  discourage  the 
hope,  that,  if  capable  of  communicating  with  the  na* 
tives,  we  might  tax  our  strength  to  the  utmost,  in 
teaching  them  the  "  glad  tidings  of  great  joy." 

For  some  days  after  our  arrival,  we  were  visited  by 
crowds  of  merchants  and  mechanics,  whose  object 
none  could  mistake.  Of  course,  their  principal  busi- 
ness is  with  our  mercantile  fellow  passengers.  They 
generally  understand  a  little  English  ;  but  their  vo- 
cabulary is  so  limited  and  corrupt,  that  it  is  at  first 
imi^ossible  to  comprehend  their  meaning.  With  the 
exception  of  two  or  three,  who  have  spent  some  time 
in  England  or  America,  there  is  probably  not  one  of 
their  number,  to  v/hom,  even  simple  ideas  expressed 
in  correct  diction,  would  be  intelligible.  There  must 
be  a  system  of  mutual  accommodation,  or  nothing  can 
be  done  with  them. 

Some  of  the  most  familiar  vocables  in  this  strange 
compound,  belong  neither  to  correct  Chinese,  English, 
nor  Portuguese,  but  are  a  corruption  of  each,  with  an 
admixture  of  a  few  other  words,  said,  by  philologists, 
to  be  traceable  to  no  language,  living  or  dead.    Many 


caiNA<  108 

of  our  syllables  have  sounds  to  which  their  organs  of 
speech  have  never  been  trained,  and  consequently, 
when  uttered  by  them,  they  appear  so  unlike  them- 
selves, as  not  to  be  recognized  by  their  old  and  best 
acquaintance. 

Their  own  idiom  is  retained  in  some  cases,  and  a 
literal  translation  of  words  attempted,  which,  from  the 
great  difference  of  structure  and  figurative  allusion  in 
the  two  languages,  would  frequently  convey  to  the 
mind  of  a  novice,  any  idea  as  readily  as  the  one  in- 
tended. 

The  appearance  of  these  men,  and  in  fact,  of  the 
Chinese  in  general,  both  male  and  female,  differs,  in 
some  respects,  from  my  preconceived  notions.  Those 
peculiarities  which  are  the  most  striking  to  the  stran- 
ger, are  the  great  variety  of  complexion,  the  general 
flatness  of  face,  and  uniformity  of  features,  and  espe- 
cially the  strange  formation  of  the  eye,  not  only  with 
its  internal  angle  curved,  as  noticed  by  writers,  but 
with  the  lid  in  many  cases  so  small,  as  to  appear  una- 
dapted  to  its  natural  use.  This  last  peculiarity  is  most 
remarkable  among  children.  The  lid  appears  unnatu- 
rally distended  when  the  eye  is  open ;  at  the  same 
time  it  covers  so  much  of  the  ball  of  the  eye,  as  to 
produce  the  impression  that  the  latter  is  uncomforta- 
bly confined.  It  is  believed  that  ophthalmia,  which 
is  very  common  in  the  empire,  is  owing  in  a  great 
measure  to  this  peculiar  conformation.  With  the  ex- 
ception of  the  occiput,  the  heads  of  the  men  are  shaved ; 
while  in  that  region,  if  its  luxuriance  will  admit,  it  is 
permitted  to  grow  until  it  comes  in  contact  with  their 
heels.  In  this  province  it  is  worn  in  a  pendant  plait 
10 


104  CHINA. 

—the  cords  with  which  it  is  interwoven,  frequently 
supplying"  the  deficiency  of  its  length.  It  is  quite  a 
comment  on  fashion — "  old  custom,"  as  the  Chinese 
term  it — to  associate  with  the  popularity  and  preva- 
lence of  the  one  here  described,  the  recency  of  its  date, 
and  the  reproach  of  its  origin.  Upon  the  Tartar  con- 
quest, not  two  centuries  ago,  the  Chinese  were  com- 
pelled to  adopt  this  style  of  wearing  their  hair,  as  a 
mark  of  subjugation.  Many  considered  it  such  a  dis- 
grace, that  they  preferred  losing  their  heads  to  their 
hair.  Now  it  has  become  an  ornament,  and  a  m.ark 
of  proud  distinction. 

The  girls  wear  the  long  plait,  according  to  the  fash^ 
ion  of  the  men,  but  do  not  shave  the  other  parts  of  the 
head.  After  marriage,  the  hair  is  braided  upon  the 
head,  and  decked  with  a  profusion  of  flowers  and  jew^ 
els,  answering  to  the  rank  or  means  of  the  possessor. 
The  ordinary  style  of  dress  differs  but  little  in  both 
sexes.  It  consists  of  loose  pantaloons,  and  an  over- 
garment, or  robe,  varying  in  length  from  the  knee  to 
the  ground,  and  with  long  dangling  sleeves,  which 
hang  almost  as  low.  Their  girdles,  like  those  of  tho 
Jews,  frequently  answer  the  purpose  of  purses.  Tlie 
stocking  has  no  reference  to  the  shape  or  size  of  the 
limb,  and  the  shoe  has  a  thick,  clumsy  sole,  turning  up 
in  front,  and  destitute  of  elasticity  to  aid  the  step. 


CHAPTER    IV- 


CHINA    CONTINTED. 

VYiTH  these  general  remarks  upon  the  country  and 
its  inhabitants,  we  pass  on  to  a  few  of  those  incidents 
which  occurred  at  the  time,  and  which  will  assist  in 
tbrming  an  idea  of  a  residence  in  China.  Two  facts, 
howev^er,  must  be  borne  in  mind:  the  one  is,  that  the 
writer  did  not  immediately  enter  upon  the  duties  of  a 
foreign  missionary,  but  devoted  the  principal  part  of 
his  time  to  those  who  spoke  his  own  language  at  Can- 
ton and  Whampoa.  His  first  engagement  was  with 
the  American  Seamen's  Society.  The  second  con- 
sideration is,  that  during  his  residence  at  Canton  he 
knew  nothing  of  the  language,  and  was  consequently 
unable  to  avail  himself  of  those  opportunities  of  use- 
fulness, which  were  almost  daily  presented.  This  ac- 
counts for  the  dearth  of  that  kind  of  intelligence  which 
is  found  in  most  other  missionary  journals. 

March  1st. — Yesterday,  (Sabbath,)  pursuant  to  pub- 
lic notice,  which  is  generally  h«ng  up  on  a  small  board 
before  the  factory,  divine  service  was  performed  in  the 
large  room  of  the  building  in  which  we  reside.  This 
is  the  place  where  Dr.  Morrison  has  been  in  the  habit 
of  preaching  for  the  last  two  seasons.  A  chapel  at- 
tached to  the  factory  occupied  by  the  English  compa- 


106  CfllNA. 

ny,  is  also  open  every  Sabbath  morning,  for  the  wor- 
ship of  God.  Besides  these.  Dr.  M.  has  a  Chinese 
service  every  Lord's  day  in  his  own  room. 

Among  the  number  of  our  attendants  was  Ah-see,  a 
Chinese,  known  to  many  in  America,  who  spent  seve- 
ral years  in  the  United  States — was  partiall}^  educated 
at  Cornwall,  and  publicly  professed  the  Christian  faith 
in  New  York.  How  far  he  has  maintained  his  Chris- 
tian integrity,  I  am  unable  to  say.  He  is  evidently 
familiar  with  "the  speech  of  Canaan;"  but  there  is 
reason  to  fear  that  his  long  separation  from  all  religious 
society  and  external  restraints,  has  proved  unfavorable 
to  the  progress  of  his  personal  piety.  One  argument 
against  him  is  t?ie  distance  he  keeps  from  those  who 
might  be  of  the  most  service  to  him,  and  the  apparent 
indifference  with  which  he  regards  the  condition  of 
his  countrymen.  Still,  there  is  a  danger  of  judging 
uncharitably,  as  very  little  is  known  of  his  private 
hfe. 

We  met  this  evening  at  the  room  of  Dr.  M.  for  the 
monthly  concert  of  prayer  in  behalf  of  missions. 
Though  none  were  present  but  ourselves,  it  was  grat- 
ifying to  know  that  the  voice  of  prayer,  if  hegim  by 
tiSj  would  not  die,  at  least  in  the  ears  of  the  Lord,  un- 
til thousands  in  other  lands  swelled  the  petition,  and 
rolled  it  almost  "  the  world  around."  One  fact  en- 
couraged us  with  respect  to  the  conversion  of  China. 
When  the  gospel  gains  access,  according  to  human 
calculation,  it  must  have  a  speedy  and  wide  circula- 
tion. There  is  no  moral  power  to  confront  it.  The 
religion  of  the  empire  is  baseless.  Nothing  appears 
to  support  it  but  one  vast  scaffold  of  ignorance,  which. 


-CHINA.  107 

it  is  believed,  can  withstand  no  shock,  and  when  it 
yields,  must  bury  the  whole  fabric  in  one  common 
grave. 

March  15th. — On  Saturday,  Capt.  Lavender  came 
to  town  with  the  intention  of  taking  me  with  him  in 
the  afternoon,  to  Whampoa  ;  but  a  long  continued 
shower  prevented.  Arose  early  on  Sabbath  morning, 
and  reached  the  ship  before  breakfast.  The  Bethel 
flag  soon  waved  in  the  breeze,  and  the  silent  invitation 
was  answered  by  an  unexpectedly  large  number  from 
the  two  American  vessels  in  port. 

This  morning  was  spent  in  visiting  two  of  the  three 
islands  contiguous  to  the  shipping,  and  accessible  to 
foreigners.  They  are  known  by  the  names  of  Wham- 
poa, French,  and  Dane's  Islands.  Here,  strangers  enjoy 
the  liberty  of  exercising  their  limbs,  if  they  confine 
themselves  within  certain  limits,  and  of  burying 
their  dead,  if  they  comply  with  the  exorbitant  de- 
mands of  the  avaricious  and  calculating  proprietors. 
If  a  sufficient  number  are  associated,  they  may  extend 
their  ramble  almost  at  pleasure  ;  but  the  probability 
of  defeat,  or  the  fear  of  personal  injury,  is  the  only 
certain  security  from  an  attack  by  the  natives.  The 
solitary  adventurer  is  not  always  molested ;  but  it  is 
uhcays  wise  to  decline  the  experiment,  since  the 
younger  part  of  the  community  are  allowed  by 
their  parents  to  pelt  him  with  stones  and  mud,  and 
''  children  of  a  larger  growth"  are  not  backward  to 
take  from  his  pockets,  or  even  his  person,  whatever 
may  tempt  their  avarice  or  take  their  fancy.  A  shor^ 
time  since,  an  imprudent  stranger  exposed  himself  to 
their  cupidity,  and  was  robbed  of  Ms  watch. 

10* 


108  CHINA. 

It  should  not  be  concealed  that  the  conduct  of  sail- 
ors, permitted  to  enjoy  "liberty"  on  these  islands,  has 
been  highly  offensive  to  the  Chinese.  Maddened  by 
the  fumes  of  a  vile  liquor,  distilled  from  rice,  and,  it 
is  said,  mixed  with  poisonous  ingredients,  the  crews 
of  some  of  the  ships  have  even  gone  to  the  extreme  of 
sacrilege,  assailing  their  very  temples,  and  abusing 
their  gods. 

French  island  is  a  vast  cemetery,  where  multitudes 
of  natives  and  foreigners,  await  the  morning  of  the 
resurrection.  Here  are  three  groups  of  foreigners, 
occupying  different  places,  though  but  a  short  dis- 
tance apart.  The  two  most  contiguous  to  the  pre- 
sent anchorage  are  of  a  recent  date,  and  consist  prin- 
cipally of  Americans  and  English.  The  tombs  of  the 
other  are  inscribed  in  different  languages,  and  refer 
you,  with  a  few  exceptions,  to  the  past  century.  The 
majority  were  cut  off  in  the  morning  of  life — a  solemn 
admonition  to  thoughtless  youth.  It  is  unaccountable 
that  those  who  fall  from  the  ships,  however  expert 
they  may  be  at  swimming,  and  even  accustomed  to 
exercise  in  this  very  river,  seldom  arise  to  the  surface, 
or  are  rescued  from  the  grasp  of  death.  Some  attri- 
bute it  to  an  under  current  of  resistless  power ;  but 
those  who  are  in  the  habit  of  diving  for  pleasure,  ex- 
perience no  difficulty  in  arising  to  the  surface.  Many 
a  mound  is  pointed  out,  where  sleep  the  bodies  of 
those  who  were  healthy,  gay,  unapprehensive  of  their 
change,  the  very  moment  before  it  occurred.  In  the 
midst  of  cheerful  conversation,  there  was  an  abrupt 
pause — a  sudden  plunge — an  awful  eternity. 

Those  foreigners  who  die  at  Canton,  are  generally 


CHINA.  109 

interred  on  the  island,  and  from  appearances,  the 
*'  King  of  Terrors"  has  been  pecuUarly  triumphant 
during  the  last  year.  One  of  our  party,  who  had  just 
returned  from  a  trading  voyage,  read  the  epitaph  of 
two  of  his  acquaintance,  to  whom  he  bade  adieu  one 
year  ago  in  perfect  health.  The  first  intimations  of 
their  death  he  received  with  astonisment,  when  with- 
in a  short  distance  of  their  mouldering  remains. 

Besides  the  number  of  strangers,  who  have  made 
their  grave  in  this  heathen  land,  many  of  the  hills 
are  repositories  of  deceased  natives.  The  sepulchers 
of  the  rich  and  great  are  generally  constructed  of 
hewn  stone,  in  a  semi-circular,  or  horse-shoe  form, 
corresponding  in  appearance  to  the  previous  rank  or 
circumstances  of  the  "  lowly  tenant."  Some  of  them 
are  quite  ornamental  to  the  hills  over  whose  sides 
and  summits  they  are  scattered. 

According  to  the  superstitious  custom  of  the  Chi- 
nese, they  have  just  been  paying  their  annual  visit  to 
their  departed  relatives,  repairing  the  tombs,  decora- 
ting the  surrounding  spot  with  colored  papers,  offering 
sacrifices  to  their  manes,  and  attending  to  numerotis 
rites,  which  they  conceive  to  be  becoming  in  the  liv- 
ing, and  not  simply  gratifying  to  the  dead,  but  quite 
necessary  to  their  comfort.  The  more  wealthy,  on 
these  occasions,  erect  booths  on  the  hills,  assemble 
their  kindred,  prepare  a  sumptuous  entertainment, 
provide  candles,  incense,  gold  and  silver  paper,  suits 
of  clothes,  and  other  articles,  which  passing  by  the  op- 
eration of  fire  into  smoke,  they  imagine  pass  into  the 
world  of  spirits.  Then  they  kneel  and  pray  to  this 
effect,  "We  a  multitude  of  children,  grand-children, 


110  CHINA.      • 

and  other  descendants,  now,  on  such  a  dar,  have 
come  hither  to  worship  at  our  ancestors'  tumuU  ;  we 
pray  that  by  the  protection  of  our  ancestors,  we  may 
become  prosperous,  and  that  their  descendants  may  be 
constantly  supported."  At  this  season,  the  bones  are 
removed,  if  the  body  is  supposed  to  occupy  an  inaus- 
picious place.  Even  those  who  profess  to  beUeve  the 
doctrine  of  spiritual  annihilation,  or  m.etemphsycosis, 
are  among  the  most  scrupulous  in  their  offerings  to 
the  dead. 

It  appears  to  be  a  very  prevalent  sentiment,  that  the 
spirit,  or  one  of  them,  as  they  helieve  in  a  plurality, 
continues  in  the  vicinity  of  the  dispossessed  body,  that 
the  sympathy  between  them  remains  almost  as  perfect 
as  before  their  separation,  and  that  the  comfort  of  the 
living  agent  is  materially  affected  by  the  regard  shown 
to  it,  or  to  its  decaying  companion,  by  earthly  rela- 
tives. The  idea  of  having  none  to  sacrifice  at  their 
tombs,  and  supply  them  with  such  things  as  they  are 
supposed  to  need  in  the  invisible  state,  is  abhorrent  to 
a  Chinaman. 

-^?i_jOne  great  inducement  for  keeping  up  these  cere- 
monies with  so  much  apparent  zest,  is  the  scene  of 
feasting  and  revelry  which  ensues.  If  the  descrip- 
tion applies  with  peculiar  emphasis  to  any  people  in 
the  world,  "  whose  God  is  their  belly,"  it  does  to  the 
Chinese.  It  is  the  exhaustless  theme  of  their  conver- 
sation. "Have  you  eaten,"  is  one  of  the  most  com- 
mon and  polite  salutations  among  them,  and  the  re- 
putation of  a  good  liver  appears  to  excite  both  the  en- 
vy and  respect  of  their  more  restricted  countrymei%^ 

We  visited  a  sugar  e&tabhshment  on  the  island  m 


CHINA.  Ill 

Whampoa.  The  simplicity  and  cheapness  of  the 
works  were  highly  characteristic  of  Chinese  taste  and 
policy.  The  mill  which  expresses  the  liquor  from 
the  cane  was  composed  of  three  vertical  cylinders, 
made  of  a  coarse  granite,  and  with  wooden  cogs. 
The  coppers^  as  boilers  are  termed  in  other  sugar 
growing  countries  of  less  primitive  predilections,  were 
made  of  cast  iron,  which  they  have  the  art  of  redu- 
cing almost  to  the  texture  of  common  paper,  and  of 
welding,  when  cracked  or  broken,  with  entire  facility 
and  firmness.  These  were  arranged  triangularly,  and 
with  little  apparent  regard  to  those  principles  of  gra- 
nulation which  are  elsewhere  adopted.  That  no- 
thing might  reduce  the  quantum  of  manual  labor, 
where  hands  and  mouths  are  so  numerous,  and  wages 
so  low,  the  mill  was  placed  below  the  level  of  the  boil- 
ers, and  the  liquor  carried  in  tubs,  from  the  one  to  the 
other.  As  it  attained  its  consistence  in  each  of  these 
vessels,  instead  of  being  passed  through  a  strainer  into 
the  next,  it  was  transferred  by  hand  to  another  part  of 
the  building,  whence,  after  the  process  of  filtration,  it 
was  returned  to  its  appropriate  caldron. 

The  workmen  were  very  civil  and  obliging.  They 
gathered  around,  invited  us  to  gratify  our  curiosity 
and  palates,  and  presuming  on  equal  liberties,  amused 
themselves  in  examining  our  persons  and  dress.  Eve- 
ry article  of  apparel  was  scrutinized,  and  when  the 
eye  was  not  sufficiently  discriminating,  the  fingers 
were  employed.  Here  again  we  have  had  repeated 
opportunities  of  intercourse  with  the  natives,  and  had 
we  known  the  language,  might  have  turned  it  to  the 
best  account. 


112  CHINA. 

March  20th. — Our  attention  has  been  frequently  ar- 
rested by  processions  passing  through  the  streets. 
Sometimes  they  are  the  retinue  of  men  of  distinction, 
whose  approach  is  announced  by  a  herald  beating  a 
gong  in  a  peculiar  manner,  and  who  move  about  with 
all  the  display  of  badges,  servants,  and  equestrian  at- 
tendants, of  which  their  civil  or  literary  rank  will  ad- 
mit. The  sumptuary  laws  of  the  empire  forbid  that 
parade  of  mere  wealth,  which  is  common  in  other 
countries,  although  the  liberty  of  purchasing  nominal 
titles  and  immunities,  gives  nearly  as  much  import- 
ance to  wealth,  as  though  such  a  statute  was  not  in 
existence.  One  thing,  however,  detracts  from  that 
conscious  security  in  his  possessions,  which  the  man 
of  property  enjoys  under  the  laws  of  Christian  lands. 
There  are  offices  above  the  nominal  rank,  to  which 
wealth  can  raise  its  possessor,  and  these  offices  are  fre- 
quently filled  with  men,  who,  with  the  love  of  money 
and  contempt  of  justice,  so  common  in  China,  can  ge- 
nerally manage  to  stock  their  own  coffers,  at  the  ex- 
pense of  their  unprotected  neighbors.  Occasions  can 
be  seized  upon,  where  they  exist,  or  feigned,  where 
they  have  no  existence,  by  the  skillful  management  of 
which,  these  officers  of  injustice  can  effect  the  most 
avaricious  and  nefarious  purposes. 

But  to  return  from  this  digression. — The  proces- 
sions most  worthy  of  remark,  are  either  designed  for 
religious,  hy menial,  or  funeral  occasions.  Were  it 
not  for  a  few  designating  objects  in  one  part  of  the 
train,  it  would  be  impossible  for  a  stranger  to  deter- 
mine, whether  it  was  designed  to  honor  their  gods, 
feasi  the  living,  or  gratify  the  dead.     The  appearance 


CHINA.  liJ 

of  the  attendants,  the  style  of  the  music,  the  objects  of 
ornament,  and  articles  of  feasting  are  generally  the 
same. 

Some  of  their  burials  exhibit  a  great  show  of  mpurn- 
ing,  but  as  this  is  known  to  be  the  custom  in  China, 
and  to  be  connected  with  other  established  usages, 
such  as  preserving  the  body  of  the  deceased,  until  the 
ordinary  fountain  of  grief  is  stanched,  and  calling  to 
their  assistance  "  such  as  are  skillful  of  lamentation, 'iK 
it  fails  to  excite  the  sympathy  of  genuine  sorrow. 
The  greatest  ceremony  is  made  at  the  funeral  of  a 
parent,  when  the  nearest  male  relative  walks  immedi- 
ately behind  the  body,  and  is  obliged  to  be  supported 
in  the  phrenzy  of  his  professed  grief  The  death  of 
a  wife  is  considered  a  matter  of  much  less  importance. 
The  husband,  on  that  occaaion,  walks  in  an  erect 
posture,  and  with  an  air  of  comparative  indifference. 

The  mourning  habit  is  something  of  a  light  brown, 
with  a  napkin  of  the  same  color,  tied  around  the  head. 
Sackcloth  is  often  worn  ;  the  mourner,  if  not  too  poor, 
keeps  himself  in  deep  retirement  for  a  hundred  days  : 
the  beard  and  hair  are  allowed  to  grow,  and  other  acts 
of  cleanliness  and  comfort  are  dispensed  with,  all  of 
which  are  designed  to  show  the  absorption  of  his  grief, 
and  consequently  his  estimate  of  the  loss  he  has  sus- 
tained. Among  the  Chinese,  the  death  of  a  father  or 
mother  disqualifies  a  son  for  office  for  three  years  ; 
the  Tartars  mourn  a  hundred  days. 

The  bridal  palanquin  and  paraphernalia,  designate 
the  marriage  procession.  The  former  is  exceedingly 
gaudy,  and  1  believe  employed  only  on  this  occasion  : 
the  latter  is  said  to  be  the  only  dowry  of  the  females.  It 


114  CHINA. 

consists  of  fiirniturej  apparel,  wines,  eatables,  and  at 
times,  boxes  of  money.  Of  course,  the  profusion  and 
splendor  vary,  according  to  the  capacity  of  the  father's 
purse  and  heart.  The  palanquin  is  generally  attend- 
ed by  a  few  females,  the  "  handmaids"  of  the  inclosed : 
but  so  closely  is  it  shut  on  every  side,  that  you  cannot 
by  any  contrivance  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  contents. 
The  same  ignorance  is  the  misery  of  the  bridegroom, 
when  he  beholds  the  vehicle  approaching,  and  reflects 
that  it  contains  the  unknown  companion  of  his  fu- 
ture life. 

To-day,  the  largest  procession  I  have  yet  seen,  pass- 
ed. Its  object  was  religious,  in  commemoration  of  the 
birth-day  of  one  of  their  gods — probably  a  deified 
hero.  To  describe  it,  would  be  difficult,  to  imagine 
it  the  product  of  a  rational  mind,  for  any  rational  pur- 
pose, still  more  so ;  but  to  believe  it  the  eflbrt  of  an 
immortal  spirit  to  secure  the  favor  of  one  who  has  the 
disposal  of  its  eternal  happiness,  almost  impossible. 

Among  the  objects  which  principally  attracted  our 
attention,  were  small  temples  fantastically  decorated 
and  furnished  with  gilded  images — pageants  r^sem- 
bUngopen  palanquins,  and  filled  with  roasted  pigs,  orna- 
mented fruits,  cakes  and  flowers — boys  and  girls  gau- 
dily arrayed  on  horseback,  the  first  children  of  wealthy 
parents,  who  represent  oflicial  attendants  upon  the 
gods,  the  others  holding  the  sacred  vessels  of  their 
altars,  and  acting  as  priestesses — groups  of  lads  on 
foot  occupying  different  places  in  the  train,  and  each 
company  wearing  a  distinct  uniform  ;  bands  of  musi- 
cians, both  aged  and  young,  with  gongs,  drums,  tam- 
borines,  cymbals,  stringed  and  wind  instruments ;  be- 


CHINA.  115 

sides  a  large  number  of  coolies,  in  almost  every  color 
and  style  of  dress,  each  furnished  with  a  religious  tab- 
let, or  object  of  ornament :  the  "  tout  ensemble,"  was 
not  imlike  the  display,  on  a  day  of  general  militia 
muster,  in  some  of  the  populous  towns  in  America, 
when  the  different  companies,  arrayed  in  their  pecul- 
iar uniform,  down  to  the  immartial  ragamuffins,  as 
multiform  in  their  dress,  as  in  their  arms,  join  in  one 
general  parade,  and  lend  all  that  is  imposing,  at  least 
in  variety,  to  the  long  drawn  and  ludicrous  spectacle. 
The  resemblance  is  even  more  striking,  in  the  spirit, 
than  in  the  appearance  of  these  two  motley  groups, 
convened  for  such  different  objects.  If  the  Chinese 
had  been  enraged  at  their  deity,  and  intended  this  as 
a  public  expression  of  their  contempt,  it  would  have 
been  more  in  character.  Such  is  the  phrenzy  of  the 
human  mind,  without  the  restraining  and  renewing 
powers  of  the  Holy  Spirit. 

March  25th. — Dr.  Morrison  sent  for  us  this  eve- 
ning, to  meet  Leang  Afa  at  his  rooms.  As  is  gene- 
rally known,  he  is  among  the  first  fruits  of  the  mis- 
sion to  China,  and  if  the  promise  respecting  the  Jews 
be  applicable  to  the  Chinese,  and  the  multitude  com- 
posing ''  the  lump"  be  individually  as  holy  as  "  the 
first  fruits,"  we  may  expect  a  glorious  harvest,  from 
this  neglected  part  of  the  Savior's  vineyard.  Since 
his  conversion  he  has  been  greatly  persecuted,  and  is 
daily  "  counted  worthy  to  suffer  shame  for  His  name." 
Active  and  undaunted  in  the  service  of  his  Master,  he 
has  been  seized,  imprisoned,  spoiled  of  his  goods,  and 
scourged.  His  daily  business,  notwithstanding  the 
rage  of  his  enemies,  and  the  revilings  of  his  friends, 

11 


116  cnmA, 

is  to  preach  and  teach  Jesus  Christ,  "  from  house  to 
house."  He  appears  to  possess  the  spirit  of  a  martyr, 
and  we  have  reason  to  hope,  is  prepared,  if  necessary, 
to  meet  a  martyr's  death.  The  feehngs  he  expressed 
in  welcoming  missionaries  to  his  benighted  country, 
were  awakened  in  us  at  the  sight  of  one,  in  whom  ap- 
peared so  distinctly  the  image  of  the  Savior. 

He  read  the  tenth  chapter  of  Luke  in  Chinese,  and 
explained  with  much  propriety  the  passage,  respecting 
the  harvest  and  laborers.  The  interview  was  closed 
by  a  solemn  and  earnest  petition^  in  his  own  language^ 
which  before  rising  from  our  knees,  was  translated  for 
our  edification,  by  Dr.  M.,  and  offered  to  "the  same 
Lord  over  all."  It  was  mentioned  that  all  his  prayers 
are  so  different  from  the  set  phraseology  of  the  formal- 
ist, and  so  feelingly  adapted  to  circumstances,  thai 
they  carry  with  them  the  evidence  of  their  origin 
and  sincerity.* 

April  2d. — One  of  the  most  popular  amusements  in 
China,  and  one  which  quite  forces  itself  upon  your  at- 
tention at  this  season,  is  the  drama.  If  you  walk 
abroad,  and  allow  your  eyes  their  wonted  liberty,  you 
are  sure  to  see  it ;  if  you  remain  at  home,  and  allow 
your  ears  the  same  freedom,  you  will  certainly  hear 
it,  or  its  accompaniments* 

Stages  are  annually  erected  in  the  most  public  and 
spacious  openings  of  the  streets,  and  frequently  on  the 

*  Others  have  been  successively  associated  with  Leang  Afa,  and 
his  last  report  mentions  that  "there  are  upwards  of  ten  of  us,  who. 
tvith  one  heart  and  united  minds,  continue  to  serve  the  Lord,  ana 
practice  the  holy  doctrines  of  the  Gospel.  Everv  Sabbath  day  we 
assemble  together,  to  praise  the  Savior  for  the  mighty  grace  of  the 
redemption." 


CHINA-  117 

ground  of  wealthy  citizens.  When  the  exhibition  is 
intended  for  the  amusement  of  the  pubhc,  the  expenses, 
it  is  said,  are  defrayed  by  the  inhabitants  of  that  dis- 
trict. The  rich  engage  these  actors  for  the  entertain- 
ment of  themselves  and  their  families,  to  do  honor  to 
their  guests,  and  at  times  simply  to  insure  success  in 
tlieir  temporal  affairs,  as  they  strangely  associate  pros- 
perity in  business,  with  these  and  many  other  equally 
silly  performances.  These  exhibitions  are  frequently 
intended  for  the  honor  and  gratification  of  their  gods. 
The  squares  belonging  to  some  of  the  temples,  are  the 
places  most  commonly  selected,  and  the  scenes  are  at 
times  kept  up  for  seven  successive  days  and  nights. 

The  sentiments  they  entertain  of  the  objects  of  their 
adoration  and  trust,  may  be  gathered  from  the  pieces 
introduced  for  their  amusement.  Many  of  them  are 
of  a  tragic  character,  founded  upon  ancient  chronicles, 
and  designed  to  perpetuate  the  notable  events  of  the 
empire.  That  these  should  be  grateful  to  the  deified 
heroes,  to  whom  the  temples  are  dedicated,  and  who 
were  the  chief  actors  in  the  scenes  described,  is  a  na- 
tural conclusion.  But  what  ideas  must  they  possess 
of  the  moral  character  of  these  honored  beings,  if  they 
believe  that  their  attempts  at  comedy,  buffoonry,  and 
gross  obscenity,  are  acceptable  and  approved. 

The  inconsistencies  and  puerilities,  mentioned  by 
writers^  are  very  glaring.  How  the  spectators  can 
not  only  endure  such  childish  tricks,  but  admire  them, 
must  be  a  source  of  wonder  to  those  who  regard  the 
nation  as  advanced  beyond  the  mere  vaunt  of  superi- 
ority in  taste  and  attainments. 

In  our  estimation,  their  music  js  deficieiit  in  every 


118  CHINA. 

excellence  of  instrumental  harmony.  They  are  fond 
of  sounds,  and  have  a  variety  of  instruments,  and 
practice  sufficiently  to  become  proficients  ;  but  either 
all  our  ideas  on  the  subject  are  wrong,  or  there  is  ve- 
ry little  musical  talent  or  taste  in  the  nation.  Their 
instruments  are  in  general,  differently  constructed  from 
ours,  and  the  musicians  are  not  unfrequently  lads. 
who  appear  in  a  great  measure  to  consult  their  own 
childish  whims,  in  the  manner  and  pauses  of  their 
performances.  In  the  music  which  is  generally  heard 
at  their  processions,  one  is  inclined  to  doubt,  whether 
any  thing  is  aimed  at  beyond  mere  noise,  and  their 
most  popular  tunes,  when  performed  by  practiced  men, 
have  little  in  them  that  strikes  pleasantly  upon  the  ear 
of  any  but  Chinamen.  The  gong  is  generally  produ- 
ced on  every  occasion  which  calls  for  music,  and 
there  are  many  ceremoliies,  both  in  etiquette  and  reli- 
gion, in  which  it  is  considered  the  only  appropriate 
instrument.  Its  loud  and  vibratory  sounds,  according 
to  the  usucil  mode  of  beating  it,  though  considered 
agreeable  b}^  some,  appear  to  me  to  be  on  a  par  with 
the  tones  of  a  cracked  bell, — scarcely  so  mellifluous. 

June  24th. — One  of  the  annual  festivals  has  been 
celebrated  to-dciy,  and  the  confusion  of  a  holyday 
crowd,  the  noise  of  guns,  crackers,  gongs,  and  drums, 
and  the  display  of  streamers  and  ornaments,  of  almost 
every  gaudy  color,  have  fatigued  the  senses  and  ren- 
dered the  shades  and  silenceof  night,  peculiarly  grate- 
ful. The  day  commemorates  the  death  of  a  states- 
man of  high  respectability,  who,  faithful  to  the  office 
intrusted  to  him,  was  so  sensitive  to  the  slanderous 
misrepresentations  of  his  enemiesj  that  he  threw  hinv 


CHINA.  119 

self  into  a  river  and  was  drowned.  His  name  was 
Watune,  and  the  event  took  place  about  two  thousand 
three  hundred  years  ago. 

There  is  a  custom  connected  with  the  observance 
of  this  anniversary,  which  proves  a  source  both  of 
amusement  and  danger,  and  with  which  the  populace 
are  so  captivated,  that  personal  safety  and  legislative 
prohibitions  are  alike  disregarded.  They  have  long 
narrow  shallops,  curiously  constructed  for  the  occa- 
sion, which  they  term  dragon-boats,  probably  from 
their  serpent-like  appearance,  and  with  which  they 
pretend  to  explore  the  rivers  and  creeks,  for  the  un- 
discovered body  of  the  statesman.  These  contain 
from  sixty  to  one  hundred  men,  furnished  with  pad- 
dles, which  they  time  to  the  beat  of  the  gong  and 
drum,  an4  with  which  they  drive  them  forward  with 
great  velocity.  We  have  heard  of  no  accident  to-day, 
although  not  unfrequently  the  scene  closes  with  a 
tragedy.  It  is  the  custom  to  try  the  comparative  speed 
of  the  boats,  and  inflamed  with  the  spirit  of  rivalry 
and  the  fumes  of  samshoo^  they  sometimes  come  in 
contact,  and  convert  their  paddles  into  weapons  of 
death.  Two  years  ago,  beside  running  down  a  num- 
ber of  J)oats,  and  drowning  men  and  women,  one  of 
them  was  upset,  and  eighteen  perished. 

Various  superstitious  customs  are  observed  on  this 
day.  The  mechanics  and  shopkeepers  suspend  their 
labors,  and  too  frequently  indulge  in  feasting  and 
licentiousness. 

August  9th,  1830. — After  a  visit  of  nearly  three 
weeks  at  Macao,  we  are  again  bending  our  course  to- 
wards the  scene  of  our  present  labors.  A  prison  ex- 
11* 


120  CHINA. 

ceptedj  it  would  probably  be  difficult  to  find  a  better 
preparative  for  the  enjoyment  of  verdant  scenery,  in- 
vigorating breezes,  bodily  recreation,  and  ladies'  socie- 
ty, than  a  residence  at  Canton. 

We  engaged  an  English  sail-boat  manned  with 
Lascars,*  and  favored  with  a  fine  breeze,  in  less  than 
twenty-four  hours  reached  our  destination.  The  time 
has  passed  rapidly  and  agreeably,  between  the  im- 
provement of  opportunities  for  usefulness,  and  the  en- 
joyment of  advantages  for  health.  In  connection  with 
the  usual  morning  service,  ordinarily  conducted  by 
Dr.  Morrison,  an  evening  lecture  was  also  held  at  his 
house.  The  attendance  much  exceeded  expectation, 
though  it  was  something  of  a  novelty — probably  the 
first  Protestant  preaching  ever  attended  on  the  Lord's 
day  evening,  in  the  empire  of  China.  Though  in  it- 
self of  comparatively  small  importance,  it  opens  a  de- 
lightful vista  into  the  future,  and  discloses  to  the  eye 
of  faith  an  extended  scene  of  gathering,  attentive, 
praising  multitudes,  filling  the  thousand  temples  of 
Jehovah  which  shall  soon  stud  this  land,  and  scarcely 
capable  of  realizing  the  moral  night  which  shrouds 
our  present  post  of  observation,  and  through  which 
nothing  but  the  lamp  of  prophecy  sheds  the  faint- 
est ray. 

That  such  a  prospect  should  be  considered  a  wild 
fancy  by  a  large  proportion  of  mankind,  who  look  on- 
ly at  things  as  they  appear,  and  overlook  the  determi- 
nation and  ability  of  Jehovah  to  make  them  appear 
otherwise,  cannot  be  wonderful  to  those   who  know 


*  Lascars  are  native  sailors  irom  Beiigal,  or  other  parts  of  India 
Proper. 


CHINA.  121 

the  influence  of  the  senses  upon  the  mind,  and  who 
could  have  seen  the  spectacle  of  idolatry  which  we 
witnessed  during-  our  visit  at  Macao. 

As  a  remedy  to  the  declension  of  trade  and  destruc- 
tion of  fires,  with  which  the  nation  has  been  recently 
visited,  a  famous  geomancer  recommended  the  erection 
of  a  new  temple,  to  be  dedicated  to  the  "god  of  wealth, 
the  god  of  the  north,  and  the  god  of  fire."  A  sub- 
scription was  opened  for  the  purpose,  and  the  individ« 
ual  contributions  varied  from  one  to  one  thousand 
dollars.  A  splendid  pagan  procession  passed  through 
the  streets  for  ten  successive  days.  It  was  composed, 
each  day,  of  distinct  classes  of  persons,  belonging  to 
a  particular  trade  or  neighborhood.  Each  party  de- 
frayed their  own  expenses,  and  from  appearances  aim- 
ed at  eclipsing  the  pomp  of  its  predecessors.  Being  an 
object  of  engrossing  interest,  and  not  very  frequent  oc- 
currence, it  enlisted  among  its  attendants  many  per- 
sons from  those  classes  of  the  community  which,  it  is 
said,  seldom  honor  the  gods  with  their  presence.  As 
usual,  there  was  a  number  of  bands  of  music,  some  of 
which  were  volunteer  companies  of  respectability  ;  but 
never  do  I  recollect  to  have  heard  such  grating,  deaf- 
ening tones,  from  instruments  designed  for  human 
gratification  or  human  endurance. 

Among  the  great  variety  of  objects  intended  to  give 
effect  to  some  of  the  processions,  were  young  girls, 
apparently  standing  in  the  air,  at  least  with  do  other 
visible  support  than  the  decayed  branch  of  a  bush, 
held,  by  some,  at  arm's  length  from  the  body,  or  fur- 
nishing to  others  a  perch  for  their  diminutive  feet.  In 
the  first  instance,  the  branch  appeared  too  feeble  to 


122  CHINA. 

sustain  the  weight  of  the  body,  even  if  the  muscles  of 
the  arm  were  capable  of  such  an  effort,  and  in  the 
other,  it  afforded  no  surface  on  which  to  balance  the 
person,  if  the  vehicle  beneath  had  been  stationary. 
The  probability  is,  that  there  was  a  communication 
of  wire,  or  something  sufficiently  tenuous  and  strong, 
painted  in  imitation  of  decayed  branches,  inclosing 
the  body  and  fastened  to  the  platform,  which  was  car- 
ried beneath  them.  Their  loose  flowing  robes  were 
well  calculated  to  favor  the  illusion. 

In  one  of  the  processions  was  a  large,  hideous  fig- 
ure, made  of  painted  paper,  and  designed  to  materi- 
alize their  fancy  of  what  they  term  "  lung,"  or  the 
dragon.  This  creature,  or  deity,  or  both,  for  their 
systems  recognize  no  distinction,  is  supposed  to  exert 
ii  mighty  influence  in  the  regions  of  the  air.  It  is 
thought  to  answer  in  some  respects,  to  the  Python  of 
the  Greeks — certainly  in  the  locality  and  prevalence 
of  its  dominions  it  is  strikingly  analogoos  to  the 
"dragon,  that  old  serpent"  of  the  true  faith.  Its 
length  of  volume,  which  probably  exceeded  one  hun- 
dred feet,  was  supported  by  a  number  of  men  beneath, 
and  partly  within  it,  who  held  it  upon  poles,  and  gave 
the  huge  monster,  as  it  passed,  the  sinuous  motion  of 
its  genus.  The  day  closed,  or  rather  the  night  was 
spent,  in  the  performance  of  plays  before  the  temple. 
A  temporary  stage  was  erected  for  the  occasion,  and 
the  court  richly  illuminated  with  clusters  of  glass 
chandeliers.  Such  is  the  solemnity  and  reasonable- 
ness of  painim  worship. 

At  present  we  are  returning  in  a  large  native  boat, 
by  what  is  termed  the  inside  passage.     Vast  meadows, 


CHINA.  123 

intersected  by  rivers  and  creeks,  and  bounded  by  ir- 
regular ranges  of  naked  hills,  extend  in  some  places 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  These  aire  all  covered 
with  paddy.  What  a  beneficent  provision  in  these  ex- 
tensive and  irriguous  lands  for  the  rice-eating  millions 
of  China ! 

A  light  breeze  bears  us  along,  while  village  after 
village  rises  to  view,  and  recedes  in  the  distance. 
There  is  very  little  in  the  general  aspect  of  the  country, 
or  any  of  its  isolated  objects,  to  awaken  regret  at  the 
impossibility  of  landing.  The  site  of  the  villages  is 
generally  low  and  level ;  some  of  them  are  flanked  by 
hills,  sacred  to  the  gods  and  the  dead,  and  all,  at  least 
through  our  present  medium — a  heated  atmosphere, 
and  languid  eyes, — destitute  of  any  attractions,  or  even 
an  air  of  comfort.  The  houses  are  generally  small, 
built  of  stone,  mud,  and  brick,  and  presenting  in  a 
group,  a  dull  uniformity  of  appearance. 

Clumps  of  trees  and  patches  of  verdure  give  a  rural 
aspect  to  some  spots  ;  the  margin  of  the  river  in  pla- 
ces is  lined  with  fruit  trees,  principally  the  shadach  ; 
but  the  population  appear  so  poor,  and  their  habits  so 
filthy,  that  they  neutralize  all  the  attractions  of  the 
inanimate  beauties  around  them. 

We  were  obliged  to  stop  at  Heong-shan,  the  principal 
village  between  Canton  and  Macao,  where  our  passes 
and  baggage  were  examined.  Before  the  custom- 
house officers  arrived,  the  water  population  crowded 
around  us,  and  endeavored  by  all  the  force  of  panto- 
mimic argument  to  obtain  our  charities.  Large  pago- 
das surmounted  the  tops  of  some  of  the  highest  hills, 
and  others  of  minor  altitude,  but  generally  upon  the 


124  CHINA. 

principal  elevation  in  the  vicinity,  bring  forcibly  to 
mind  the  denounced  idolatry  of  ancient  days.  How 
animatino:  the  prospect,  when  "  these  high  places  shall 
be  removed,"  and  "  the  mountain  of  the  Lord's  house 
shall  be  established  on  the  tops  of  these  very  moun- 
tains." 

August  27th. — Within  the  past  week,  we  have  vi- 
sited two  of  the  dwellings  of  the  hong  merchants,  sit- 
uated in  the  village  of  Hainam.  As  specimens  of  the 
style  of  living  among  the  most  wealthy  classes  of  the 
nation,  they  are  interesting ;  they  consist,  in  general, 
of  a  group  of  buildings  of  different  dimensions  and 
compartments,  covering  a  large  area,  and  adorned  with 
gardens  and  small  lakes  or  ponds  of  water.  Around 
the  ponds  and  in  them,  were  factitious  rocks  in  stri- 
king imitation  of  nature,  while  the  beautiful  water  lily, 
Nelumbium,  spread  its  broad  leaves  above  and  upon 
the  surface  of  the  waters.  With  the  exception  of  a 
few  detached  retreats,  these  buildings  are  connected  ; 
but  they  branch  off  in  various  directions,  and  are  ap- 
proached by  small  inclosed  avenues.  The  private 
apartments,  accessible  only  by  these  narrow  passage- 
ways, allow  of  retirement  to  the  family,  and  secrecy 
for  scenes  of  carousal,  even  when  the  more  public  halls 
are  open  for  the  reception  of  strangers.  One  suite  of 
apartments  is  fitted  up  for  the  women,  the  other  for 
guests.  With  one  or  two  exceptions,  the  rooms  are 
by  no  means  spacious,  but  gaudily,  and  some  of  them 
richly  furnished.  The  chairs  and  tables  are  large  and 
massive,  and  almost  every  room  has  at  least  two  couch- 
es, with  a  table  between  them,  designed  for  a  luxurious 
tete  a  tete. 


CHiJTA.  125 

But  the  ornamental  objects  are  the  most  attractive. 
Painted  and  intagUated  wails,  chandaliers,  lamps,  a 
variety  of  natural  and  artificial  curiosities,  and  ancient 
relics,  are  displayed  to  as  much  advantage  as  possible. 
Some  of  the  specimens  of  coin  and  ware,  are  very 
ancient,  and  large  vases,  formerly  used  for  idolatrous 
purposes,  very  costly.  One  of  the  rooms  was  fitted 
up  and  furnished  as  a  domestic  chapel.  Incense  was 
burnt  before  a  painted  figure,  intended  to  represent  the 
tutelar  deity  of  the  house.  We  have  referred  to  the 
custom  of  putting  up  tablets  in  the  houses,  at  the  de- 
mise of  parents  and  other  near  relatives.  It  is 
thought  that  one  of  the  three  spirits  which  their  books 
assign  to  each  person,  abides  near  this  tablet,  and  is 
refreshed  and  gratified  by  the  ofierings  which  are  daily 
made  to  it. 

The  proprietor  of  one  of  the  houses  invited  us  to 
the  ceremony  of  burying  his  mother,  which  is  to  take 
place  during  the  approaching  week.  The  body  has 
been  preserved  above  ground  for  a  year  or  more,  and 
now,  for  the  first  time  since  her  death,  the  precise 
place  and  hour  of  interment  have  presented  themselves 
to  the  imaginations  of  the  deceiving,  and  probably  de- 
luded priests.*  Our  host  mentioned  that  one  of  the 
principal  hong  merchants  had  a  number  of  his  deceas- 
ed relatives  unburied  ;  some  of  whom  had  been  kept 
thirty  years,  waiting  for  the  lingering,  auspicious  hour. 
This  is  said  to  be  contrary  to  the  laws  of  the  empire ; 


♦  The  ceremony  was  afterwards  performed  in  a  splendid  manner. 
Kindred,  friends  and  spectators  from  all  the  surrounding  country,  met 
and  offered  sacrifices  to  the  deceased.  The  expense  incurred  was  not 
less  than  ten  thousand  dollars, — Can.  Register. 


126  CHINA* 

but  superstition  has  no  law,  especially  when  protected 
by  the  strong  arm  of  pecuniary  power.  That  many, 
who  are  guilty  of  this  offense,  have  the  same  control 
of  the  law  as  the  one  referred  to,  is  evident  from  the 
fact  that  in  January,  1830,  there  were  reported  to  be 
ten  thousand  coffined  bodies  in  Canton,  not  interred.* 

August  31st,  1830. — Within  the  past  week,  the  most 
gaudy  pageants  and  brilliant  illuminations  have  cheer- 
ed the  darkness  of  the  night.  Large  boats,  adorned 
with  variegated  lamps,  have  passed  the  city  in  a  long 
line,  for  a  number  of  successive  evenings.  These  arc 
frequently  marriage  processions.  The  lights  were  ar- 
ranged in  horizontal  rows,  around  the  hulls  of  the 
vessels,  at  such  distances  as  to  combine  the  effect  of  a 
glowing  sheet  of  flame,  with  that  of  innumerable  in- 
laid gems,  each  shedding  a  luster  far  more  vivid  and 
sparkling  than  their  rich  ground  work.  From  these 
rows  there  were  others  branching  in  different  direc- 
tions, and  forming  different  figures.  The  music  ac- 
companied, or  rather  silenced,  by  the  crasliing  gong, 
was  in  striking  contrast  with  the  taste  displayed  in 
gratifying  the  sense  of  vision.  But  such  sounds,  they 
pretend,  are  more  grateful  to  their  ears  than  the  finest 
strains  of  European  harmony. 

Last  evening  a  ceremony  was  performed  before  the 
factories,  which  combined  all  the  v/hims  of  supersti- 
tion, with  some  of  the  sacrificial  rites  observed  of  old, 
by  divine  appointment.  A  large  quantity  of  tinsel 
paper,  covered  with  a  thin  leaf  of  gold  or  silver,  was 
consumed  amidst  rows  of  lamps   and  insense  sticks, 

> .  ,f% -  >- 

*  Canton  Register. 


CHINA.  127 

to  supply  the  wants  of  departed  spirits.  This  paper 
is  cut  or  formed  in  imitation  of  houses,  garments,  se- 
dan-chairs, boats,  horses,  and  whatever  articles  of  ne- 
cessity or  luxury,  the  deceased  is  supposed  to  require. 
It  is  fancied  that  it  passes  by  the  process  of  fire  into 
the  world  of  spirits,  and  is  there,  by  some  unaccount- 
able means,  converted  into  money,  and  whatever  ob- 
jects are  demanded.  "  The  burning  of  paper  (for  reli- 
gious purposes)  appears  to  have  been  adopted  imme* 
diately  after  the  abolition  of  human  sacrifices,  on  the 
death  of  Che-hwang-te,  who  died  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  years  before  Christ.  He  caused  his  domes- 
tics to  be  put  to  death  and  interred  with  him,  to  attend 
on  him  in  a  future  state.  At  present,  the  consumption 
of  paper,  which  is  annually  used  on  all  religious  oc- 
casions, is  very  considerable,  and  forms  an  exten- 
sive branch  of  trade  in  China."  (Indo  Chinese  Glean- 
er, vol.  ii.  p.  36.)  The  real  wardrobe  is  often  consu- 
med for  the  same  purpose. 

Under  the  influence  of  a  kindred  superstition,  and 
one  equally  extravagant,  it  is  customary  for  suicides 
and  criminals  to  array  themselves  in  their  best  appa- 
rel, in  the  immediate  prospect  of  death,  believing  that 
the  spirit  appears  in  the  invisible  world,  under  the 
same  advantages  of  dress,  as  decked  the  body  at  the 
hour  of  separation.  Besides  these  offerings,  a  table 
was  spread,  and  supplied  with  meats,  fruits  and  wine, 
no  doubt  originally  intended  for  a  feast  upon  a  sacri- 
fice, but  now  perverted  to  the  gross  purpose  of  feeding 
the  spirits  of  the  departed.  One  of  the  most  respect- 
able servants,  arrayed  in  his  best  suit,  kneeled  before 

12 


128  en  INI* 

the  table,  poured  out  a  libation  of  wine,  and  bo\ved 
his  head  to  the  ground  a  number  of  times ;  then  ta- 
king the  offerings  spread  before  him  on  the  table,  he 
threw  a  portion  of  the  fruits  to  the  waiting  specta- 
tors, and  passed  the  rest  to  the  servants  of  the  house.* 

For  several  days,  service  has  been  performed  in  a 
temporary  building  at  the  head  of  China-street,  by 
priests  of  the  Biidh  sect.  The  stage  on  which  they 
stood  was  elevated  above  the  heads  of  the  people,  and 
hung  around  with  large  paintings.  Before  these 
figures,  no  doubt  intended  to  represent  their  male  and 
female  deities,  the  priests,  arrayed  in  their  pontificals^ 
stood,  and  holding  a  paper  in  their  hands,  mumbled 
their  orisons  in  a  style  that  left  no  reason  to  wonder 
at  the  striking  resemblance  noticed  by  the  Roman 
Catholic  missionaries,  to  "  the  holy  manners"  of  their 
church.  This  ceremony  is  a  grand  annual  mass,  for 
the  benefit  of  those  souls  that  have  no  relatives  to  pray 
for  their  release  from  misery,  and  transition  into  happi- 
ness. It  corresponds  in  many  most  striking  particu- 
lars to  the  "  manners"  referred  to,  and  probably  had 
the  same  origin. 

September  21st. — For  several  days  they  have  been 
preparing  some  of  the  principal  streets  for  a  fes- 
tival, in  honor  of  the  deity  who  presides  over  fire,  and 
as  a  thank-offering,  for  preserving  the  city  from  its  de- 
solations.    He  is  represented  with  a  frightful  counte- 


♦  When  laughed  at  for  their  folly,  and  having  the  evidence  of  more 
than  one  of  the  senses,  that  the  offerings  remain,  they  will  often  pre- 
tend that  the  flavor,  or  at  least,  that  sucli  qualities  of  the  food  as  nour- 
ish the  spirit,  are  extracted. 


CHINA.  129 

tenance,  and  a  long  flaming  beard.  To-night,  the 
noise  of  instruments  and  voices  announced  the  com- 
mencement of  the  ceremonies,  and  summoned  multi- 
tudes of  spectators  to  the  scene. 

The  principal  street  was  arched  over  from  the  top 
of  the  houses,  with  cloth  of  such  a  texture,  as  to  pre- 
vent the  rain,  which  was  falling  at  the  time,  from  in- 
terrupting their  engagements.  Beneath  the  atch-way 
were  suspended  glass  chandeliers,  variegated  lamps, 
cloth  festoons  of  the  most  gaudy  colors,  small  illumi- 
nated boats,  furnished  and  peopled  with  a  great  varie- 
ty of  other  ornaments,  all  tastefully  arranged,  and 
glowing  with  a  dazzling  brilliance.  At  each  end  of 
the  street  a  stage  was  erected,  with  carved  or  painted 
images  in  an  alcove,  and  with  hghted  tapers  and  orna- 
mented cakes  standing  before  them.  Musicians  were 
seated  on  these  stages,  who  accompanied  their  noisy 
instruments  with  a  harsh  vociferation.  To  amuse 
the  crowd,  or  gratify  the  gods,  or  both,  men  were  en- 
gaged in  exhibiting  feats  of  manual  and  pedestrial 
dexterity. 

From  the  noise  of  instruments  and  voices,  the  cer- 
emonies or  amusements  must  have  continued  through 
the  greater  part  of  the  night.  In  extending  my  walk 
beyond  the  limits  visited  last  evening,  I  found  that  a 
number  of  streets  were  arrayed  in  the  same  style  as 
the  one  described.  A  splendid  temple  had  been  erect- 
ed at  the  intersection  of  three  of  the  streets,  with  a 
large  stage,  on  which  were  displayed  a  profusion  of  or- 
namental and  sacred  vases,  with  pictures,  an  altar,  and 
jtapers.     The  sides  o(  this  temporary  pavilion,  above 


130  CHINA, 

the  heads  of  the  crowd,  were  composed  of  several 
stories  filled  with  objects  and  images,  representing 
land  and  water  scenery,  and  depicting  the  martial 
feats  of' their  heroes,  and  the  amusements  of  their 
gentry.  Enclosed  within  a  paling,  were  large  figures, 
intended  probably  as  representations  of  certain  spe- 
cies of  men  and  beasts,  but  which  have  no  originals 
in  nature.  The  frightful  distortions  of  countenance^ 
by  which  the  Chinese,  no  doubt,  intend  to  express 
something  extremely  magnanimous,  or  superhuman  ; 
and  especially  the  flame-colored  beard,  marked  out 
the  principal  image  to  be  the  object  of  their  present 
devotions. 

The  street  running  parallel  with  China-street,  in 
many  respects  eclipsed  the  array  of  its  rival.  Through 
the  whole  length  of  it  were  suspended  from  the  arch- 
way above,  a  great  diversity  of  beautiful  cars,  con- 
taining male  and  female  figures,  decked  in  robes  of 
natural  flowers.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  heavy  odor 
exhaled  from  these  gay  garments,  it  would  scarcely 
have  been  suspected  that  they  were  not  the  product 
of  delicate  and  laborious  fingers.  Even  some  of  the 
old  residents  had  always  mistaken  them  for  artificial 
decorations. 

The  performance  on  the  stage  was  continued 
throughout  the  day,  and  swelled  to  almost  a  deafening 
clangor  in  the  beginning  of  the  evening.  The  crowd 
became  so  dense  in  the  street  of  flowers,  that  after 
toiling  with  difiicult  progress,  and  descrying  in  the 
persective  nothing  but  well-stowed  heads,  I  halted  for 


CHINA.  131 

a  short  time  and  returned.  Before  leaving  this  scene 
of  confusion,  I  had  a  fair  opportunity  of  judging  of 
the  merits  of  one  of  their  popular  ballad  singers  ;  and 
though  the  opinion  I  had  formed  was  far  from  being 
flattering  to  the  powers  and  taste  of  Chinese  vocalists, 
I  certainly  saw  no  reason  to  change  it.  Of  all  grim- 
aces and  noises  ever  seen  or  heard,  nothing  but  the 
wildest  buffoonry  could  equal  this.  He  stretched  his 
mouth  to  the  utmost  tension  of  its  elastic  muscles, 
raised  his  voice  to  its  most  unnatural  and  grating  key, 
and  after  a  number  of  long-drawn  shrieks  and  qua- 
vers, exerted  it  to  a  pitch  as  thrilling  as  though  he 
felt  determined  to  close  either  his  own  lips  or  our  ears 
in  perpetual  silence.  It  was  necessary  to  hear  the 
eflbrt,  and  see  the  listening  concourse,  to  believe  that 
such  tortured  faces,  and  torturing  sounds  could  ever 
be  endured.  Another  one  whom  I  unfortunately  en- 
countered yesterday,  left  such  a  stamp  of  his  ludicrous 
appearance  upon  my  imagination,  as  I  fear  will  haunt 
me  for  time  to  come. 

25th. — This  morning,  the  fifth  day  from  its  com- 
mencement, the  splendid  scene  closed.  The  revel 
was  kept  up  all  the  last  night,  and  he  who  could  gaze 
upon  the  living  mass  which  it  assembled,  especially 
after  the  laborer  was  released  from  his  daily  task,  and 
not  feel  the  deepest  compassion  for  the  ignorance  and 
infatuation  of  the  nation,  must  himself  be  as  truly 
pitiable  as  those  whom  he  cannot  pity. 

One  of  the  most  intelligent  Chinamen  mentioned, 
that  a  priest  belonging  to  the  temple  of  the  god  whose 
tutelage  they  thus  gratefully  ackno\vledged   and   im- 

12* 


132  CHINA. 

plored  for  the  future,  made  it  his  business  to  go  rounds 
every  day,  and  take  notes  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
rites  were  conducted.  At  the  close  of  the  ceremonies, 
his  observations  were  carefully  written  on  one  sheet, 
and  passed  into  the  invisible  world  for  the  informa- 
tion of  the  god,  "altogether  such  an  one  as  them- 
selves." 


CHAPTER    V. 


CHINA  CONTINUED. 

'"The  dark  places  of  the  earth  are  full  of  the  habitations  of  cruelty." 

To  give  an  adequate  idea  of  the  various  and  com- 
plicated miseries  existing  in  China,  would  fill  a  vol-  / 
ume.  Female  infanticide,  we  have  reason  to  believe,  ^ 
is  very  common.  It  is  thought  by  some  of  the  best 
Chinese  scholars,  to  be  greatly  increased,  if  it  were 
not  produced,  by  their  philosophical  notions  respect- 
ing the  origin  and  continuance  of  all  things.  They 
believe  that  originally  there  was  but  one  eternal  prin- 
ciple, which  was  merely  the  first  link  of  a  great  ma- 
terial chain,  neither  distinct  from  the  universe,  nor 
endued  with  any  moral  perfections.  They  represent 
this  first  cause — this  first  link  of  the  chain,  by  a  cir- 
cle ;  but  as  they  feel  it  difficult  to  account,  from  what 
they  see  in  nature,  for  all  the  absurdities  which  pre- 
sent themselves,  on  the  supposition  of  a  simple  homo- 
geneous body,  acting  on  itself,  they  suppose  that  when 
the  system  of  nature  assumed  its  present  form,  the 
one  eternal  principle  was  divided,  and  became  two 
powers,  which  is  represented  by  a  figure  of  a  circle 
divided  in  two  by  a  waving  line  across  the  center. 
(See  Indo-Chinese  Gleaner,  vol.  3,  p.  2.)     On  the  reg- 


134  CHINA. 

ular  action  of  these  powers,  the  harmony  of  the  uni- 
verse, both  physical  and  moral,  depends.  Excess  or 
defect  in  either,  deranges  the  system  of  nature,  and 
introduces  disorder  in  the  alfairs  of  mankind.  The 
one  of  themthfey  consider  to  be  of  the  masculine  gen- 
der, the  other  of  the  feminine,  and  the  difference 
between  the  two  they  suppose  as  great  as  between  the 
"  vis  mobile"  and  the  "  vis  inertia"  of  the  old  philo- 
sophers. 

i/To  what  extent  the  inhuman  practice  of  infanti- 
cide prevails  in  China,  we  have  no  means  of  deter- 
mining. In  the  imperial  city,  after  deducting  more 
than  one  half  for  natural  deaths,  the  number  of  ex- 
posed infants  is,  according  to  Barrow,  about  four  thou- 
sand a  year.  [  / 

Some  of  the  scenes  he  witnessed  while  at  Pekin 
were  almost  incredible.  Before  the  carts  go  around 
in  the  mornings  to  pick  up  the  bodies  of  infants  thrown 
in  the  streets — amounting  to  about  four-and-twenty 
every  night — dogs  and  swine  are  let  loose  upon 
them.  The  bodies  of  those  found  are  carried  to  a 
common  pit  without  the  city  walls,  in  which  the  liv- 
ing and  the  dead  are  thrown  together.  This,  howev- 
er, is  a  small  proportion  compared  with  other  places. 

In  some  provinces,  not  one  in  three  is  suffered  to 
live,  and  in  others,  as  the  writer  has  been  informed 
by  the  Chinese  from  those  places,  the  difference  be- 
tween the  male  and  the  female  population  is  as  one 
to  ten.  We  believe  the  last  statement  applies  only  to 
the  poorest  parts  of  the  empire. 

"  The  most  prevalent  mode  of  perpetrating  this 


CHINA.  136 

crime  is  by  suflfocation.  A  piece  of  paper,  dipped  in 
vinegar,  is  laid  over  the  face  of  the  child,  so  as  to  pre- 
vent respiration.  It  is  said  to  be  frequently  done  to 
the  aged  and  afflicted^  to  cut  the  brittle  thread  of 
life:'* 

Infanticide  is  almost  exclusively  limited  to  the  fe- 
male sex  ;  and  the  condition  of  that  class  of  the  com- 
munity, when  spared,  is  an  evidence  as  well  as  cause, 
of  the  real  barbarity  and  misery  of  the  nation. 

A  writer  on  China,  after  quoting  a  large  portion  of 
one  of  their  moral  works  on  the  inferiority  and  treat- 
ment of  females,  makes  the  following  remarks  :  "  The 
very  dependent  and  degraded  state  of  females  in  Chi- 
na, may  be  partly  seen  from  this  extract.  They  are, 
moreover,  not  allowed  the  confidence  of  their  hus- 
bands, nor  to  sit  at  the  table  with  them,  nor  to  have  a 
voice  in  domestic  concerns,  nor  to  visit  the  temples 
where  the  prayers  of  the  unfortunate  are  supposed  to 
find  access.  Religion  is  denied  them.  Little  atten- 
tion seems  to  be  paid  to  the  peculiar  circumstances  in 
which,  as  wives  and  mothers,  they  may  be  placed. 
^  Rise  ;  run  ;  work  ;  eat  little  ;  spend  little  ;  be  silent ; 
keep  out  of  sight  ;  obey  ;  bear ;  and  rather  bleed, 
Starve,  and  die,  than  dare  to  complain,'  is  the  genu- 
ine language  of  the  above  extract.  Though  fortunate- 
ly for  them,  humanity,  common  sense,  and  interest  in 
many  cases,  plead  in  their  favor,  and  procure  a  relax- 
ation of  the  rigor  of  ethical  and  legislative  restrictions, 
yet  where  such  restrictions  have  the  sanction  both  of 


*  Indo-Chinese  Gleaner,  vol.  3,  p.  193, 


136  CHINA. 

public  opinion  and  of  supreme  authority,  how  is  it  pos- 
sible to  prevent  their  hurtful  operation  on  this  tender 
half  of  human  nature."* 

Without  education — crippled  from  infancy — close- 
ly immured — married  without  their  consent — in  some 
instances  even  sold  by  their  parents — and  often  treated 
most  unfeelingly  by  the  relatives,  and  the  other  wives 
of  their  husbands,  we  cannot  wonder  at  the  frequent 
suicides  araon^  them,  of  which  we  read,  nor  of  their 
attempts  to  poison  those  by  whom  all  their  happiness 
and  hopes  are  spoiled. 

The  poverty  of  the  lower  classes  turns  to  their  ac- 
count, in  the  exemption  it  secures  from  the  barbarous 
custom  of  compressing  the  feet,  and  in  the  necessity 
it  enjoins  of  performing  laborious  work,  and  thus  es- 
caping the  imprisonment  to  which  their  superiors  are 
doomed.  For  the  correction  of  these  evils,  and  the 
happiness  of  these  miserable  beings,  ought  we  not  to 
expect  much  from  the  influence  and  self-denying  la- 
bors of  Christian  ladies  ? 

But  suffering  by  the  hand  of  cruelty  is  not  confined 
to  the  female  sex,  in  China.  In  the  present  constitu-* 
tion  of  society,  there  is  scarcely  any  security  for  prop- 
erty or  life  in  the  empire.  Some  of  the  laws  are  un* 
just,  others  perverted  to  the  most  nefarious  purposes. 
The  innocent  are  often  made  to  suffer  for  and  with 
the  guilty,  and  the  mandarines  have  it  in  their  power 
to  dispose  of  those  beneath  them,  according  to  their 
pleasure.  Hence  the  oppression  and  extortions  under 
which  the  nation  has  long  groaned.      Contrary  to  all 

♦  JndorChinese  Gleaner, 


CHINA.  137 

the  laws  of  civilized  lands,  they  consider  each  as 
guilty,  who  might  possibly  be  involved  in  a  crime 
committed,  until  he  proves  his  innocence.  This  ac- 
counts for  that  unreasonable  and  most  cruel  custom 
of  examining  hy  torture.  The  innocent  are  thus 
frequently  confounded  with  the  guilty,  or,  if  capable 
of  resisting  the  dreadful  temptation  of  accusing  them- 
selves falsely,  they  are  often  made  to  suffer  beyond 
the  demerit  of  the  criminal.* 

Their  modes  of  punishment,  when  guilt  is  proved, 
and  especially  in  criminal  cases,  are  often  shocking  in 
the  extreme.  Strangling  and  beheading  are  so  com- 
mon, that  scarcely  any  notice  is  taken  of  them.  "  More 
than  one  thousand  criminals  suffer  death  annually  in 
the  province  of  Canton.     A  learned  Chinese  says,  that 


*  On  every  occasion,  they  torture  by  pulling  or  twisting  round  the 
ears,  (the  torturer  having  previously  rendered  his  fingers  rough  by  a 
powder,)  and  cause  them  to  kneel  a  long  while  upon  chains.  They 
next  employ  what  they  call  the  beautt/s  bar,  (the  breast,  small  of  the 
back,  and  legs  bent  up,  are  fastened  to  three  cross-bars,  which  causes 
the  person  to  kneel  in  great  pain,)  the  parrofs  beam,  (the  prisoner  is 
raised  from  the  ground  by  stnngs  round  the  fingers  and  thumbs,  sus- 
pended from  a  supple  transverse  beam,)  the  refining  furnace,  (fire  is 
applied  to  the  boly,)  and  other  implements,  expressed  by  other  terms. 
If  these  do  not  force  confession,  they  double  the  cruelties,  till  the 
criminal  faints,  and  is  restored  to  life  again,  several  times  in  a  day. 
Prisoners,  unable  to  sustain  these  agonies,  are  often  compelled  to  sign 
a  confession  of  crimes,  of  which,  after  death,  many  of  them  are  pro- 
ved guiltless.  The  cruelties  exercised  by  the  local  magistrates  cannot 
be  described  ;  and  the  various  police  runners  are  equally  ingenious 
in  planning  to  enrich  themselves.  In  criminal  cases,  as  murder  and 
robbery,  in  debts  and  affrays,  they  endeavor  to  involve  all  who  appear 
to  have  the  slightest  connexion  with  the  matter,  that  they  may  obtain 
bribes  from  them  for  the  purchase  of  their  liberty.  These  petty  offi- 
cers load  their  captives  with  fetters,  until  they  cannot  stir  an  inch,  and 
release  them  only  on  receiving  a  large  sura.  Their  sufferings  are 
daily  accumulated,  until  death  is  the  consequence. — Indo-Chinese 
Gleaner,  vol.  1. 


138  CHINA. 

a  hundred,  on  an  average,  are  put  to  death  by  law  itt 
the  province  every  month." 

"  In  the  close  of  1816,  there  were  in  the  various 
prisons  of  the  Chinese  empire,  ten  thousand  two  hun- 
dred and  seventy  criminals  convicted  of  capital  oiFen- 
ces,  and  awaiting  the  imperial  order  to  carry  into  ef- 
fect the  sentence  of  death.  Some  men,  from  their 
sufferings  in  prison,  which  is  generally  so  loathsome 
and  horrible  a  place,  that  it  is  called  "  hell,"  cannot 
support  themselves  in  the  position  required.  At  night 
they  are  chained  to  inclined  boards,  on  which  they 
sleep.  Cleanliness  is  neglected,  and  their  dungeons 
become  offensive  and  unhealthful  in  the  highest  de- 
gree. Money  can  procure  some  alleviation,  and  the 
prisoners  of  long  standing,  attack  in  the  most  ferocious 
manner,  those  unhappy  persons  who  have  newly  en- 
tered. They  seize  them  by  the  arms  and  legs,  toss 
them,  beat  them,  and  bite  them,  to  extort  money  from 
them."*  The  most  heinous  offences  are  visited  with 
inflictions  of  the  most  refined  and  exquisite  cruelty. 
Crucifixion,  cutting  to  pieces,  every  species  of  slow 
and  painful  execution  is  employed. 

♦  Gleaner. 


CttAPTER  Yh 


CHINA,  CONTINUEI>. 

Prom  the  last  date  to  the  time  of  his  departure,  th6 
journal  of  the  writer  is  principally  occupied  with  de- 
tails of  the  religious  services  of  his  fellow-missionary 
and  himself,  among  the  residents  at  Canton,  and  the 
Seamen  at  Whampoa.  As  Mr.  Bridgman  uniformly 
took  part  in  all  the  public  duties  of  the  Sabbath,  we 
were  enabled  to  supply  both  places  with  very  little  in- 
terruption.* A  transcript  has  been  furnished  to  the 
American  Seamen's  Society,  and  published. 

It  may  not  be  misplaced  to  repeat  here,  that  his  ob- 
ject was  to  ascfertain  the  practicability  of  having  a  sea- 
men's chaplain  stationed  at  this  important  mart  of 
commerce,  and  that  the  short  experiment  fully  ap- 
proved the  benevolent  plan.  During  this  limited  pe- 
riod, many  facts  of  no  ordinary  interest  occurred,  which 
proclaimed  the  necessity  of  carrying  on  the  work  com- 
menced, and  the  readiness  of  a  merciful  Savior  to  bless 
the  endeavor. 

*  Besides  the  study  of  the  language,  which  necessarily  occupies 
much  of  Mr.  B.'s  time,  he  has  about  half  a  dozen  promising  Chinese 
-lads  under  his  instruction,  who  have  been  submitted  by  their  parents 
to  his  entire  control,  and  dwell  in  the  factory  with  him.  One  ol  them 
is  the  son  of  Leang  Afa.  Let  those  interested  in  the  conversion  of 
China,  pray  that  these  youths  may  become  Christians,  and  teachers  erf 
•fheir  coimtrymen. 

13 


140  CHINA. 

It  is  affecting  to  consider  what  multitiides,  who 
leave  their  homes  in  health  and  hope,  find  a  grave  up- 
on these  heathen  shores.  Numbers  every  season  are 
buried  from  the  shipping,  and  some  of  the  most  prom- 
ising in  health,  and  prosperous  in  their  calling,  have 
been  this  year  most  unexpectedly  summoned  to  their 
account.  It  was  delightful  to  find  many  of  different 
nations,  mingling  in  the  worship  of  the  same  Lord 
over  all,  and  so  favorably  impressed  with  the  value  of 
spiritual  blessings,  as  to  request  that  their  respective 
ships  might  be  made  the  occasional  chapel. 

The  only  thing  necessary  to  make  the  station  one 
of  the  most  important,  in  foreign  lands,  is  a  perma- 
nent and  commodious  place  of  worship,  where  the 
rules  of  etiquette,  or  want  of  space,  need  prevent  none 
from  attending  ;  and  where  the  chaplain  may  have 
every  advantage  in  pursuing  his  uninterrupted  labors. 

In  connection  with  the  claims  of  the  maratime  com- 
munity, there  is  a  small  population  in  Canton,  who 
for  more  than  half  the  year  have  no  religious  services. 
Gain  being  their  paramount  object,  and  having  little 
or  nothing  to  remind  them  of  their  religious  interests, 
it  may  readily  be  supposed  that  such  will  not  prove 
the  most  favorable  representatives  of  the  Christian 
world,  and  that  the  heathen  will  be  but  ill  prepared  by 
"  their  good  works  which  they  shall  behold,  to  glorify 
God  in  the  day  of  visitation." 

Besides  the  regular  morning  worship,  a  service  was 
established  in  the  evening  of  the  Lord's  day,  at  which 
a  large  and  attentive  congregation  were  generally 
presents 

But  the  subject  of  the  greatest  interest,  connected 


CHINA.  141 

vv^ith  this  scene  of  exertion,  is  the  conversion  of  China 
unto  Him  from  whom  she  has  revolted.  Here  is  an 
object  indeedj  whose  magnitude  beggars  description. 
The  salvation  of  a  whole  empire, — the  most  important 
empire  upon  earth, — itself  more  extensive  than  all  Eu- 
rope, and  containing  about  two  fifths  of  earth's  entire 
population.  Look  where  we  may,  beneath  the  wide 
expanse  of  the  heavens,  we  can  find  no  distinct  enter- 
prise  so  laudable,  so  imperious,  so  inconceivable  in  its 
results,  as  the  conversion  of  China. 

The  real  condition  of  her  hundreds  of  millions,  is 
but  little  understood.*  With  all  her  empty  boast  of 
perfection,  and  the  vapid  eulogiums  of  her  ignorant 
panegyrists,  there  is  probably  no  other  space  upon 
earth  so  filled  with  real  wretchedness  as  China.  Her 
mild  patriarchal  government,  is  a  system  of  injustice 
and  oppression.  From  the  ^'  Dragon  throne,"  to  the] 
lowest  menial  in  authority,  self-aggrandizement  is  the  \ 
reigning  passion, — extortion  and  cruelty  the  means  of  \. 
its  gratification.  Her  plebian  happiness  is  the  com- 
bined result  of  poverty,  virtual  slavery  and  vice. 
Those  who  have  had  the  best  opportunities  of  judg- 
ing, give  the  most  painful  description  of  the  indigence 
and  depravity  of  the  populace.  The  middling  class, 
or  those  who  enjoy  a  competence,  are  a  small  minori- 
ty ;  and  they  are  often  treated  without  justice  or  mer- 
cy, and  if  capable,  are  quite  as  unjust  and  merciless. 

*  When  we  speak  of  the  Chinese  empire,  we  refer  to  all  that  terri- 
tory stretching  between  the  Caspian  sea  on  the  west,  and  the  Pacific 
on  the  east, — between  Siberia  on  the  north,  and  the  China  sea  on  the 
south.  The  most  authentic  census,  taken  in  1812,  and  published  in 
the  last  statutes  of  the  present  dynasty,  give  a  population  of  three  hiB\- 
Ured  and  sixty-two  millions, 


142  CHINA, 

Eren  the  appearance  of  happiness  which  captivates 
the  stranger,  must  be  mere  show ;  for  consisting  as  it 
does  in  earthly  possessions,  there  is  very  httle  in  tlie 
laws,  or  their  corrupt  administration,  to  give  it  basis 
or  perpetuity. 

It  is  true  their  Hterature  is  extensive  :  but  how  far 
it  is  calculated  to  elevate  their  character,  or  meliorate 
their  condition,  may  be  determined  by  the  f\ict,  that 
scarcely  a  subject  of  which  they  treat  is  understood, 
while  the  most  important  truths,  the  only  ones  which 
can  improv^e  the  moral  character  of  man,  are  totally 
unknown. 

Their  philosophy,  history,  and  poetry,  are  so  mixed 
-up  with  the  marvelous  and   absurd,  that  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  maxims  of  their  sages,  some   of  which 
are  excellent,  there  is  nothing  worth  exploring  in  the 
whole  field  of  their  science. 
I       Thus  the   conversion  of  China,  with   all  the  bless- 
/  ings   attendant  upon  Christianity,  becomes   an  object 
L  of  worldly  philanthropy,   as  well  as  of  Christian  be- 
nevolence.    None  whose   heart  is  not   adamant,  can 
gaze  upon  this  scene  of  distress  without  emotion. 

But  how  infinitely  vast, — how  worthy  of  all  sacri- 
fice,— all  hazard,— all  experiment, — does  the  moral  el- 
evation of  this  nation  appear,  when  viewed  in  its  con- 
nection wiih  the  Redeemer's  glory.  Here  is  a  triumph 
and  a  trophy  for  His  victorious  grace, — a  gem,  the 
purest  and  brightest  which  earth  can  offer,*  to  deck 
His  mediatorial  crown  !  With  the  eye  of  this  gracious 
Being  upon  us,  and  His  heart  upon  the  salvation  of 
those  who  have  been  promised  Him,  as  His  inherit- 
ance, what  can  express  our  gratitude, — evince  our  dis- 


CHINA.  143 

cipleship, — or  display  our  allegiance  and  love, — if  the 
conversion  of  China  be  not  the  object  of  our  prayers, 
and  plans,  and  utmost  endeavors. 

For  the  present  accomplishment  of  this  under- 
taking, much,  very  much,  may  be  done. 

"Faith,  mighty  faith,  the  promise  sees, 

Relies  on  that  alone ; 
Laughs  at  impossibilities, 

And  says  it  shall  be  done." 

Missionaries  should  be  sent  forth  to  every  accessible 
place  in  the  empire,  and  to  every  mart  of  her  com- 
merce in  the  circumjacent  seas.  The  coasts  should 
be  invaded,  and  the  sea-ports  entered,  as  they  have 
been,  and  still  are,  by  the  undaunted  genius  of  com- 
merce. Every  opening  should  be  searched  out, — ev- 
ery tenable  post  occupied, — every  lawful  engagement 
subordinated, — every  passport  possessed.  Others  have 
entered,  and  gained  their  respective  objects.  Pagans, 
Jews,  Mohammedans,  Catholics,  nominal  Protestants, 
all  have  penetrated  but  those  who  were  alone  capable 
of  benefiting  the  nation,  and  alone  commanded  to  haz- 
ard their  lives  in  the  attempt. 

Although  there  are  many  serious  obstacles  to  the 
introduction  of  Christianity  in  China,  there  are  also 
the  most  valuable  facilities  inviting  to  the  duty.  En- 
ergy of  mind  and  body  is  a  characteristic  of  the  na- 
tion. They  are  extremely  inquisitive, — patient  in  re- 
search,—fond  of  literature, — free  from  the  shackles  of 
caste^ — and  comparatively  but  little  wedded  to  their 
systems  of  religion. 

These  qualities  added  to  the  fact,  that  the  Bible, 
and  scores  of  excellent  works  have  been  translated  or 
13* 


144  CHINA. 

written  in  their  own  character,  afford  the  greatest  en- 
couragement to  pray  with  expectation,  and  labor  with 
confidence,  for  their  spiritual  welfare. 

The  interesting  voyages  of  Gutzlaff  along  the  coast 
of  China,  which  were  made  after  the  writer  left  Can- 
ton, have  brought  to  light  a  number  of  the  most  im- 
portant circumstances.  Contrary  to  received  opinions, 
tliey  have  shown  that  the  natives  are  fond  of  inter- 
course with  foreigners, — that  they  have  a  high  opin- 
ion of  our  medical  skill,  and  that  they  receive  Chris- 
tian books  with  the  greatest  avidity.  These  voyages, 
together  with  previous  information,  teach  us  that  there 
are  three  direct  ways  of  influencing  China. — occupy- 
ing the  ports  of  commerce  in  the  empire,  accessible  to 
all, — itinerating  in  ships  along  the  coasts, — and  supply- 
ing the  marts  to  which  the  Chinese  trade  in  the  neigh- 
boring kingdoms  and  islands,  with  missionaries  and 
pious  physicians.  In  the  last  mentioned  stations,  ex- 
periment has  proved  that  the  missionary  becomes 
known  both  to  those  whom  he  meets  abroad  and  their 
friends  at  home  ;  his  disinterested  and  unpolitical  ob- 
ject, is  proved  and  approved  ;  and  his  way  thus  pre- 
pared, when  an  opening  may  occur,  to  enter  in  and 
dwell  among  them. 

A  fourth  mode  of  disseminating  the  principles  of 
Christianity  in  China,  was  mentioned  in  the  former 
edition  of  this  book.  At  that  time  it  was  thought  that 
mission  stations  might  probably  be  established  in  the 
maratime  cities  and  adjacent  islands,  at  which  the 
coasting  vessels  touch  for  traffic.  No  experiment  had 
been  made  to  destroy  this  hypothesis, — none,  it  is  true^ 
had  converted  it  into  a  demonstration, — yet  such  was 


CHINA.  145 

the  supposition  of  him  who  had  enjoyed  the  best 
means  of  forming  a  correct  opinion. 

In  a  recent  attempt  made  by  some  of  the  missiona- 
ries and  others,  to  ascend  one  of  the  rivers  of  China, 
their  boat  was  fired  upon  from  shore,  and  some  of  the 
oarsmen  were  wounded.  Such  is  the  systematic  op- 
position of  government  to  intercourse  with  foreigners, 
— such  the  vigilance  and  determination  manifested  in 
debarring  strangers  and  expelUng  intruders,  that  we 
are  obhged  to  abandon  the  hope,  that  foreign  mission- 
aries would  be  tolerated,  at  least  for  the  present,  in 
any  other  places  but  Canton  and  Macao.  Mr.  Ste- 
vens, who  ac"companied  the  expedition  referred  to,  has 
expressed  the  same  opinion.  Its  probability  is  appa- 
rent at  a  moment's  reflection,  and  in  this  light  we 
wish  to  have  it  regarded ; — none  can  pronounce  it  an 
undoubted  verity.  The  difficulties  in  the  way  of 
evangelizing  China,  ought  to  be  universally  under- 
stood. If  they  are  disregarded  by  the  churches,  how 
can  the  proper  agency  be  adapted,  and  the  requisite 
faith  exercised  ?  How  long  this  opposition  to  foreign 
intercourse  may  continue,  or  whether  some  daring 
spirits  may  not  be  soon  employed  by  their  great  Cap- 
tain to  neutralize  its  power,  are  questions  which  can- 
not now  be  decided.  It  is  enough  for  us  to  know  that 
those  other  means  for  sending  the  gospel  into  China, 
which  have  been  mentioned,  are  efficient,  and  extend 
beyond  the  control  of  all  the  government  officers  in 
the  country. 

But  even  if  there  were  highways  opened  through 
every  part  of  the  empire,  there  are  none  "  shod  with 
the  preparation  of  the  gospel  of  peace,"  to  travel  them. 


146  CHINA. 

The  few  missionaries  who  have  been  sent  out,  are  by 
no  means  equal  to  the  duties  of  their  own  stations. 
Those  who  have  not  been  toihng  for  years  at  the  lan- 
^uag'e  are  not  quahfied  for  such  an  undertaking,  and 
the  Christian  world  appears  still  to  slumber  over  the 
claims  and  calls  of  these  perishing  millions.  Admit- 
ting that  every  possibility  of  entering  the  country  is 
precluded,  there  is  preparatory  work  enough  for  hosts 
of  laborers,  and  work  which  must  be  done,  though  the 
Emperor  and  every  subject  in  his  realm  should  unite 
their  voices  in  imploring  our  aid.  The  language  is 
to  be  mastered  before  anything  of  importance  can  be 
attempted ;  and  they  who  can  give  the  greatest  num- 
ber of  years  to  its  acquisition,  are  the  best  prepared  to 
employ  it  to  advantage.  As  the  Chinese  are  a  reading 
people,  it  is  exceedingly  important  that  they  should  be 
made  acquainted  with  many  of  those  branches  of  gen- 
eral literature,  which  have  the  most  beneficial  influ- 
ence. Of  the  history  of  other  nations,  and  the  geog- 
raphy of  other  countries,  they  are,  with  a  very  few 
exceptions,  grossly  ignorant.  China,  according  to 
their  notions,  is  the  center  and  well  nigh  the  sum 
of  the  world ;  the  focus  of  all  intellectual  and  moral 
light  :  not  only  the  glory  of  earth,  but  the  counter- 
part of  heaven.  Europe,  for  instance,  is  represented 
as  a  small  "  outside  island,"  inhabited  by  a  few  thou- 
sands of  merchants,  who  speak  different  languages, 
and  maintain  themselves  principally  by  their  trade 
with  China.  It  is  unnecessary  to  mention  that  the 
tendency  of  such  sentiments  is  fatal  to  the  introduction 
of  all  foreign  influence,  and  until  correct  information 
be  communicated  through  the  medium  of  their  own 


CHINA.  147 

language,  this  haughty  contempt  of  foreign  attain- 
ments and  customs  will  probably  continue.  If  works 
on  all  important  subjects  were  sent  forth,  in  every  pos- 
sible form  through  the  empire,  the  good  effected  would, 
in  all  probability,  be  invaluable.  So  that  on  any  sup- 
position, missionaries  ought  to  be  on  the  ground,  qual- 
ifying themselves  for  labor,  and  preparing  the  means 
by  which  they  are  to  labor,  availing  themselves  of  all 
the  facilities  which  exist,  and  watching  every  provi- 
dential opening  which  may  be  presented. 

The  number  of  missionaries  has  been  increased 
since  the  author  left  this  interesting  country.  About 
eight  have  sailed  from  America  to  join  the  Chinese 
mission.  The  majority  of  these  will  probably  take 
up  thp-ir  resiflpnr.e,  at  least  for  the  present,  at  Singa- 
pore. In  the  approaching  spring,  another  reinforce- 
ment of  about  the  same  number  is  expected  to  embark 
for  South  Eastern  Asia.  Five  of  these  are  ministers 
of  the  Reformed  Dutch  church,  and  will  proceed  to 
Java,  or  the  neighboring  islands. 

But  while  we  rejoice  at  the  growing  interest  which 
the  Lord  is  awakening  for  this  neglected  empire,  we 
are  called  to  deplore  the  loss  of  him,  in  whose  heart 
this  interest  appeared  to  commence,  and  by  whose  in- 
valuable labors  it  has  been  greatly  increased.  It  was 
the  privilege  of  the  writer  and  his  fellow  missionary, 
to  enjoy  much  of  the  society  of  the  devoted  and  la- 
mented Morrison.  The  welcome  he  gave  us  to  these 
heathen  shores,  we  can  never  forget.  His  unifoxm 
kindness  is  equally  vivid  and  grateful  in  our  memo- 
ries. But  there  was  something  beyond  the  express- 
ions of  affectionate  interest  in  our  personal   welfare, 


148  CHINA. 

with  wliicli  the  character  of  this  excellent  man  is  most 
strongly  associated.  From  our  first  private  interview, 
we  saw  in  him  "a  man  of  God," — "a  workman  that 
needeth  not  to  be  ashamed," — "  an  embassador  for 
Christ."  I  remember  the  admiration  and  even  sur- 
prise with  which  the  deep  devotion  of  his  spirit  was 
developed  to  my  mind.  Whether  I  had  feared  that  a 
solitary  residence  among  the  heathen  had  chilled  his 
ardor,  or  whether  I  had  formed  no  definite  opinion  of 
his  religious  character,  and  had  taken  the  common 
standard  by  which  to  measure  him,  I  cannot  now  re- 
call. But  he  soon  discovered,  especially  in  his  more 
retired  and  ordinary  pursuits,  the  power  of  that  holy 
principle,  which  incited  him  to  this  work, — sustained 
him  under  its  disconragempnts, — and  brought  hina 
with  honor  through  the  part  assigned  him.  Frequent- 
ly when  we  called  to  see  him,  it  appeared  as  though 
he  had  just  emerged  from  the  glorious  presence  of  his 
Savior.  His  face  beamed  with  tenderness  and  benig- 
nity, and  the  fervor, — the  liberty, — and  the  glow  of 
spirits  with  which  he  bore  us  with  him  to  the  presence 
of  his  Father,  proved  that  prayer  was  his  element,  and 
"  the  secret  place  of  the  Most  High  his  abode."  A 
deep  solemnity  of  mind, — an  abiding  impression  of 
invisible  realities, — a  sense  of  entire  dependence  and 
unworthiness, — a  constant  conviction  of  the  uncertain- 
ty of  life,  and  an  earnest  desire  to  spend  and  be  spent 
for  the  salvation  of  a  fallen  world,  appeared  to  make 
op  the  habitual  emotions  of  his  soul.  To  some  who 
knew  him  slightly,  he  had  the  aspect  of  sternness  and 
severity.  We  do  not  wish  to  represent  him  as  superi- 
pr  to  all    the  frailties  and  imperfections  of  his  fallei^ 


CttlNA.  149 

race ;  but  still  we  believe  there  were  excellences  of 
character  predominant  in  him,  to  which  very  few  at- 
tain. His  missionary  zeal  lost  none  of  its  first  ardor. 
It  was  in  him  stronger  than  death.  Many  waters 
could  not  quench  it,  neither  could  the  floods  drown  it. 
The  following  short  extract  is  from  a  letter  addressed 
to  me  a  few  weeks  previously  to  my  leaving  the  east, 
and  not  long  before  his  own  transition  to  heaven. 
•'  Mr.  Bridgman  has  written  to  me  about  advising  you 
to  go  home  ;  but  you  and  your  medical  friend  are  the 
best  judges  of  the  expediency  of  such  a  measure.  A 
missionary/' s  home  is  at  his  post,  in  the  scene  of  his 
labors.  My  present  feeling  is,  and  long  has  been,  to 
prefer  dying  at  my  post  in  China,  than  living  away 
from  it,  even  in  the  land  of  my  birthP 

Honored  saint !  he  had  his  request ;  and  when  the 
last  trumpet  shall  arouse  his  sleeping  dust,  with  what 
triumphant  joy  will  he  find  multitudes  rising  with 
him,  who,  through  his  instrumentality,  had  been  pre- 
pared for  the  "  resurrection  of  the  just."  To  his  be- 
reaved partner  and  beloved  children, — to  all  the  friends 
of  his  cause  and  his  Savior,  we  would  say, — 

"  Weep  not  for  the  saint  that  ascends 

To  partake  of  the  joys  of  the  sky ; 
Weep  not  for  the  seraph  that  bends 

With  the  worshiping  chorus  on  high. 
But  weep  for  the  mourners  who  stand 

By  the  grave  of  their  brother  in  sadness ; 
And  weep  for  the  heathen,  whose  land 

Still  must  wait  for  the  day-spring  of  gladness-'* 


CHAPTER  Vn. 


PASSAGE    TO    JAVA. 

Having  received  an  invitation  from  Capt.  Drum^ 
mond,  to  accompany  him  in  the  H,  C.  ship  Castle 
Huntley,  to  Java,  where  he  understood  I  was  going-, 
we  left  Canton  at  midnight  of  December  28th,  and 
proceeded  in  a  large  "  chop  boat"  to  the  ship,  lying  be- 
low the  second  bar.  The  Castle  Huntley,  though 
rather  inferior  in  dimensions  to  some  of  the  vessels  in 
the  same  service,  exceeds  thirteen  hundred  tons  in  bur- 
den, carries  twenty-six  guns,  and  has  a  crew  of  one 
hundred  and  forty  men.  Every  ship  of  this  kind  af- 
fords scope  for  the  most  zealous  chaplain  ;  and  if,  as 
in  the  present  instance,  favored  with  the  advice,  the 
co-operation,  and  the  prayers  of  the  commander,  the 
prospect  of  success  is  highly  animating.  Whenever 
the  weather  admitted,  we  had  divine  service  every 
Sabbath  morning,  on  deck,  and  every  evening  in  the 
cuddy.  A  part  of  almost  every  day  was  spent  on  the 
gun  deck,  among  the  crew,  visiting  the  sick,  instruct- 
ing the  ignorant,  and  exhorting  all  "to  repent  and  be- 
lieve." 

Having  never  been  brought  in  such  constant  con- 
tact with  a  large  number  of  Gailors,  I  had  an  excellent 

14 


15^  I»ASSAGE    to    JAVA* 

opportunity  of  testing  and  correcting  my  previous 
opinions,  respecting  the  best  mode  of  profitable  inter- 
course with  them  on  ship  board. 

A  sailor,  as  all  the  world  knows,  is  a  strange  being. 
Bluntnessis  one  characteristic,  and  bluntnessj  mingled 
with  an  earnest  seriousness,  must  be  employed  to  meet 
it.  No  time  need  be  spent  in  any  conversation  pre- 
liminary to  the  subject  of  personal  religion.  It  gen- 
erally leads  to  such  remarks  or  complaints  from  them, 
as  will  tend  to  defeat  your  object,  rather  than  pro- 
mote it. 

Disrespect,  where  there  is  no  restraint  upon  them, 
and  frequently  a  shocking  oath,  or  a  loud  avowal  of 
their  contempt  of  your  presence  and  purpose,  are  at 
first  employed  by  a  few  of  the  more  hardy  spirits,  to 
show  to  their  shipmates  their  manly  superiority  to  re- 
ligious scruples — and  probably  to  prevent  you  from 
intruding  into  their  retirement,  or  disturbing  their 
consciences.  This,  however,  is  seldom  repeated,  if  the 
case  be  properly  managed  at  the  time.»  Let  them  see 
that  you  are  dauntless — that  all  such  obstacles,  instead 
of  subduing,  only  animate  you — instead  of  irritating, 
only  soften  your  spirit  into  the  deeper  compassion — 
that  you  regard  their  salvation  of  infinite  importance, 
and  could  weep  at  the  enormity  of  their  crimes,  and 
the  imminence  of  their  danger,  and  you  will  general- 
ly find  these  bravadoes,  in  future,  among  the  most  def- 
erential and  docile.  If  the  challange  or  oath  is  as  evi- 
dently intended  for  your  ears,  as  for  their  companions, 
"rebuke  them  before  all,"  showing  at  the  same  time,  that 
you  have  no  wish  to  retaliate,  or   simply  to  put  them 


PASSAGE    TO    JAVA.  153 

to  shame ;  but  to  expose  the  exceeding  guilt  and  mad- 
ness of  such  unprovoked  rebellion  against  God. 

If  you  can  make  a  sailor  feol  that  his  usual  wick- 
edness and  indifference  to  duty  can  proceed  from  no- 
thing but  ignorance,  as  wilful  as  it  is  profound,  and 
that  you  have  no  secular  object  in  view  in  exhorting 
or  instructing  him,  you  have  obtained  a  claim  upon 
his  ear,  and  a  passport  to  his  heart.  When  these  first 
difficulties,  which  are  the  most  appalhng  to  those  un- 
accustomed to  exertion  among  seamen,  are  mastered, 
the  peculiarities  of  cases,  must,  as  on  shore,  indicate 
their  own  treatment. 

Probably  no  unvarying  plan  of  systematic  effort  on 
ship-board  can  be  adopted.  This  must  depend  upon 
the  dispositions  of  the  officers,  the  regulations  of  the 
vessel,  and,  in  a  measure,  the  inclinations  of  the  men. 
Opportunities  for  private  conversation  may  always  be 
found,  or  created,  and  tracts  and  small  practical  works 
may  be  distributed,  under  almost  all  circumstances. 
Every  chaplain  to  seamen — every  missionary  to  the 
heathen — every  traveling  Christian — should  carry  a 
letiding  library  with  them. 

For  the  greatest  benefit  of  this  class  of  men,  we 
must  look  to  those  who  labor  among  them  in  harbor. 
As  a  sailor  has  no  circumspection,  no  forecast,  others 
should  exercise  these  principles  for  him.  The  crimps 
have  long  availed  themselves  of  these  characteristic 
defects,  and  the  consequences  are  too  well  known  to 
be  detailed.  The  boarding  systems  at  home  should  be 
broken  up — of  course  through  the  effect  of  counterac- 
tion. There  must  be  such  a  desperate  invasion  upon 
the  usurped  province  of  every  crimp,  as  to  leave  him 


154  PASSAGE    TO    JAVA. 

no  means   of  subsistence,  unless  he  abandons  his  in- 
human traffic  in  the  souls  and  bodies  of  his  victims. 

The  immense  good  which  may  and  must  result 
from  the  conversion  of  this  class  of  men,  is  best  appre- 
ciated by  those  wlio  have  resided  in  foreign  lands.  Sai- 
lors generally  prove  a  most  serious  detriment  to  all 
missionary  efforts,  and  should  they  become  subjects  of 
religion  themselves^  instead  of  *'  scattering  firebrands, 
arrows  and  death,"  upon  every  heathen  shore  where 
they  touch,  they  would  help  to  sow  "  the  seed  of 
eternal  life,"  even  where  missionaries  have  nev^er 
traveled. 

Among  the  crew,  was  a  young  man  from  New  York, 
whom  the  captain  pointed  out  as  quite  superior  in  in- 
tellect to  his  shipmates,  but  who,  on  account  of  the 
most  glaring  misconduct;  had  been  publicly  flogged. 
I  had  frequent  opportunities  of  conversing  with  him, 
and  found  him  in  a  frame  of  mind,  which  appeared 
favorable  to  religious  impressions.  He  desired  to  ac- 
company me  in  any  capacity,  but  I  did  not  feel  my- 
self at  liberty  to  take  him,  neither  should  I  have  deem- 
ed the  step  prudent  under  any  circumstances,  with 
the  uncertain  prospect  before  me.  The  custom  of 
sending  boys  of  respectability  to  sea,  or  of  allowing 
them  to  follow  their  own  roving  dispositions,  and  make 
a  trial  of  this  mode  of  life,  is  common,  both  in  parts 
America  and  Great  Britain. 

Having  heard  the  opinion  of  many  of  different  na- 
tions, and  in  all  the  capacities  of  the  merchant  service, 
the  writer  feels  the  more  anxious  to  echo  to  the  young 
and  uninitiated,  the  voice  of  experience  on  this  sub- 
ject.    Though    the  topic  has  been  one   of  frequent 


PASSAGE    TO    JAVA,  155 

conversation,  he  has  met  with  none  accustomed  to 
fifood  society,  who,  if  they  were  compelled  to  continue 
this  life,  did  not  deplore  the  necessity  which  bound 
them  to  it,  and  dissuade  their  childen  and  others  from 
entering  upon  it  as  a  matter  of  choice. 

If  the  acquisition  of  wealth,  or  a  simple  livelihood 
be  the  object,  probably  none  of  the  ordinary  pursuits 
of  life  could  prove  less  advantageous.  The  wages, 
if  not  inadequate  to  current  expenses,  are  most  scan- 
tily proportioned  to  them,  and  even  with  the  prospect 
of  a  speedy  advancement,  which  few  enjoy,  and  still 
fewer  realize,  the  result  is  the  same.  The  highest 
station,  to  a  man  of  family,  affords  a  bare  subsistence, 
and  the  liberty  of  a  limited  trade,  generally  adds  but 
very  little  to  the  income.  This,  too,  must  be  connect- 
ed with  the  necessity  of  being  absent  from  his  family 
more  than  three  fourths  of  his  time,  deprived  of  the 
comforts  and  privileges  of  shore,  and  exposed  to  daily 
trials,  of  which  landsmen  have  no  conception. 

The  fact  that  so  few  captains  of  ships  amass  for- 
tunes, and  the  still  more  embarrassing  truth  to  which 
allusion  has  been  made,  that  scarcely  any  continue 
this  line  of  life  from  choice,  are  sufficient  to  control 
the  judgments  of  all  who  are  selecting  their  worldly 
occupations,  and  have  the  advantages  of  the  wide  con- 
tinent of  America  before  them. 

Sometimes  a  seaman's  birth  has  been  selected  for  a 
voyage  or  two,  to  improve  the  morals  of  the  dissipated. 
Those  who  are  lawless  on  land,  are  sent  to  sea  for  sa- 
lutary discipline;  but  here  again,  no  plan  could  be 
more  subversive  of  its  end.  The  mixed  society,  com- 
posed generally  of  the  lowest  class  of  men,  gathered 

14* 


150  PASSAGE    TO   JAVA. 

from  diiFerent  nations,  and  trained  to  different  habits— 
the  want  of  religion  so  prevalent  among  seamen — 
the  unrestrained  licentiousness  of  the  mass — the  tri- 
umphant detail  of  disgraceful  conduct  on  shore,  em- 
bellished by  their  own  wit,  and  set  off  by  the  most 
pithy  vulgarisms  and  blasphemies  they  have  ever  heard 
— usually  prove  as  fatal  to  every  correct  moral  sen- 
timent, as  do  the  tar  and  grease,  and  dirt,  the  ele- 
ment of  the  forecastle,  to  all  ideas  of  refinement  and 
delicacy. 

To  these  general  facts,  it  is  pleasing  to  know  there 
are  exceptions.  Wealth  and  piety  have  been  acquired 
at  sea,  and  the  latter  is  occasionally  found  among  sai- 
lors ;  but  alas  !  the  want  of  each  is  too  common  to 
encourage  the  hazardous  experiment. 

A  few  days  after  leaving  China,  we  made  the  coast 
of  Cochin-China,  and  saw  as  its  most  prominent  ob- 
ject, something  in  appearance  like  a  pagoda,  towering 
on  the  summit  of  a  high  hill.  The  distance  was  too 
great  to  define  the  object,  but  we  have  since  learned 
that  it  is  a  rock  of  this  curious  formation. 

Cochin-China  is  a  kingdom  of  considerable  import- 
ance. Including  Tonquin,  and  a  part  of  Cambojia, 
which  are  now  annexed  to  it,  it  covers  a  large  extent 
of  country,  and  contains  a  hardy,  energetic,  and  intel- 
ligent population.  The  Chinese  language  is  well  un- 
derstood by  the  inhabitants  of  Annam — the  native  ap- 
pellation of  their  own  country — although  they  em- 
ploy another  character,  in  common  intercourse,  which 
bears  affinity  to  the  ancient  Chinese,  or  seal  character. 
The  Roman  Catholics  have  long  had  a  footing  in  this 
kingdom.     They  reckon  about  three  hundred  thou- 


PASSAGE    TO   JAVA*  l&T 

sand  converts,  the  great  majority  being  in  Tonquin. 
Formerly  they  were  high  in  favor  at  the  court,  but  up- 
on the  death  of  the  king,  whom  bishop  Adran  brought 
over  to  France  for  education,  their  influence  diminish- 
ed, and  recently  they  have  suffered  severe  persecution. 
Those  who  have  visited  Cochin-China  for  trade,  give 
no  favorable  account  of  the  honesty  or  liberality  of  the 
natives.  They  are  represented  as  rather  cruel  and 
intolerant,  disposed  to  take  advantage  of  strangers, 
and  unfriendly  to  the  admittance  and  residence  of 
foreigners  among  them.  How  far  the  latter  may  be 
the  policy  of  government^  as  in  China^  we  can  only 
conjecture — but  that  many  of  those  traits  of  charac- 
ter, which  render  them  peculiarly  offensive  to  Protest- 
ant strangers,  are  produced,  at  least  strengthened,  by 
the  intolerant  spirit  of  Catholicism,  there  is  strong 
reason  to  believe.  The  nation  may  be  influenced  and 
approached  through  Siam  or  Cambojia ;  or  it  might 
be  benefited  by  more  direct  means.  The  possibility 
of  the  latter  can  be  ascertained  only  through  the  visit 
of  a  trading  ship. 

We  spent  two  days  in  procuring  water  and  fuel,  on 
the  coast  of  Sumatra.  During  this  time  the  passen- 
gers and  officers  amused  themselves  on  shore,  in  walk- 
ing, shooting,  picking  shells,  ifec.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  temporary  huts,  without  inhabitant,  there 
was  not  a  human  vestige  to  be  seen.  Traces  of  ele- 
phants and  deer,  with  an  abundance  of  snipe  and 
quails,  proclaimed  the  wildness  of  the  region;  while 
swarms  of  most  voracious  and  adhesive  insects  fur- 
nished a  sufficient  reason  for  the  absence  of  man.  It 
was  remarkable  that  though  nothing  which  indicated 
the  presence  of  human  beings  could  be  discovered,  yet 


158  PASSAGE    TO    JAVA. 

the  last  boat  had  scarcely  put  off  from  the  shore,  before 
smoke  began  to  ascend,  and  fires  to  glow,  in  the  very 
place  we  had  left.  Near  this  very  spot,  a  young  mid- 
shipman, belonging  to  the  Company's  service,  was 
murdered  a  few  years  ago.  He  had  wandered  a  short 
distance  from  his  party,  and  in  a  moment  was  attack- 
ed by  a  number  of  natives,  and  transfixed  with  a  vol- 
ley of  arrows.  The  next  morning  we  were  visited 
by  two  or  three  small  canoes,  manned  by  half-naked, 
puny  natives,  bringing  a  few  fowls  to  sell  or  barter. 

A  few  hours  after  leaving  Sumatra,  the  ship  was 
again  riding  at  anchor  abreast  of  Angier.  As  soon 
as  she  was  descried,  boats  were  sent  from  the  neigh- 
boring islands,  with  poultry,  yams,  fruit,  birds,  mon- 
keys, &c.,  all  in  great  abundance,  and  at  the  most  re- 
duced prices. 

The  most  striking  peculiarity  of  the  natives,  is  the 
artificial  shape  and  color  of  their  teeth.  They  con- 
ceive it  a  mark  of  beauty,  some  say  of  distinction  from 
the  brute  creation,  to  pass  a  file  horizontally  over  the 
center  of  the  front  teeth,  giving  to  them  the  form  of  a 
crescent,  and  then  to  stain  them  with  a  vegetable  pre- 
paration, which  often  renders  them  as  black  as  jet. 
The  appearance  is  rather  disgusting  to  a  stranger,  and 
the  disagreeable  effect  is  not  diminished  by  the  general 
custom  among  both  sexes,  of  crammig  their  mouths 
with  betel,  cere,  and  tobacco — the  latter  of  which  is 
left  to  protrude  beyond  the  lips.  This  mixture,  as 
might  be  supposed,  produces  an  action  of  the  salivary 
glands,  and  the  vicinity  of  their  persons  shows  that 
they  are  regardless  of  the  delicacy  of  any  who  may 
be  near  them. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 


JAVA. 


Angier  is  tFie  point  of  Java  where  ships  in  the 
favorable  monsoons  pass,  and  generally  call  for  sup- 
plies of  water  and  provisions.  It  is  situated  on  a 
large  plain,  adorned  with  extensive  groves  of  cocoa- 
nut  trees,  and  flanked  by  an  amphitheater  of  the  most 
diversified  and  picturesque  hills.  The  luxuriance  of 
the  verdure  mantling  every  part  of  the  plain,  and  deck- 
ing the  sloping  sides  and  the  summits  of  the  high- 
lands—with a  charming  variety  of  lofty  forests,  and 
spreading  fields,  produced  the  most  favorable  impres- 
sion of  the  fertility  and  beauty,  for  which  the  island 
is  famed.*  A  small  fort,  a  Bungalo  or  two,  and  a 
native  village  stand  in  close  vicinity,  near  the  shore. 
As  there  is  no  hotel  in  the  place,  I  went  immediately 
to  the  residence  of  one  of  the  Dutch  gentlemen,  to 
whom  I  had  letters,  and  who  received  me  with  much 
kindness. 

Supposing  that  I  was  anxious  to  proceed  to  Bata- 
via  without  delay,  and  being  unable  to  provide  a  car- 
riage immediately,  arrangements  were  made  to  have 

♦  I  saw  it  twice,  once  during  the  rainy  season,  afterwards  in  fine 
weather,  and  it  scarcely  appeared  like  the  same  place. 


160  JAVA. 

me  transported  on  the  shoulders  of  the  natives,  for 
the  first  twenty  miles.  The  idea  of  being  carried 
such  a  distance,  in  a  confined  chair,  over  bad  roads, 
and  through  almost  incessant  showers,  would  not  have 
been  agreeable,  even  had  I  known  the  native  lan- 
guage, been  familiar  with  the  way,  and  acquainted 
with  the  persons  on  whose  hospitality  I  was  obliged 
to  trespass,  for  the  night.  As  my  kind  host  had  made 
every  preparation,  under  the  evident  impression  that 
I  could  not  delay,  and  there  appeared  to  be  no  alterna- 
tive to  a  speedy  departure,  at  least  without  violating 
all  the  rules  of  politeness.  I  was  on  the  point  of  ta- 
king my  position  in  the  vehicle — which,  from  its  struc- 
ture must  have  been  recumbent,  when  the  crack  of  a 
whip  and  the  rattling  of  wheels,  announced  the  ap- 
proach of  a  more  comfortable  conveyance.  It  pro- 
ved to  be  a  government  coach,  which  was  hired  to 
travelers,  and  which  would  be  ready  the  next  day  to 
convey  me  to  Batavia. 

I  was  struck  with  the  timely  interposition  of  Provi- 
dence, and  the  more  so,  as  1  had  scarcely  dismissed 
from  my  mind  the  recollection  of  similar  circumstan- 
ces, when  the  most  seasonable  and  unexpected  relief 
was  experienced,  and  when  comfort  rather  than  neces- 
sity, appeared  to  be  consulted.  It  is  but  one  favora- 
ble incident  of  a  series,  which  connect  the  hours  of 
earliest  remembrance  with  the  present  moment,  many 
of  which  have  been  too  special  ever  to  be  forgotten. 

January  20,  Batavia. — As  the  arrangements  were 
not  made  as  early  as  was  first  expected,  I  remained  at 
Angier  until  yesterday  morning.  About  seven,  A.  M, 
we  started  with  the   expectation  of  proceeding  forty 


Java*  161 

miles,  being  half  the  distance,  and  leaving  the  rest  of 
the  journey  for  the  light  of  the  following  day.  We 
started,  as  is  customary  in  Java,  at  full  gallop,  chan- 
ged horses  every  six  miles,  and  notwithstanding  such 
a  state  of  roads  as  fixed  us  in  the  mud  two  or  three 
times,  accomplished  the  day's  journey  by  about 
two,  P.  M. 

The  face  of  the  country  was  considerably  varied 
with  hill  and  dale,  wildness  and  cultivation.  All  the 
low  and  level  tracts  of  land  were  devoted  to  the  culture 
of  rice,  and  some  of  these  fields  extended  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach.  In  almost  every  part  of  the 
way,  the  natives  of  botli  sexes  were  laboriously  enga- 
ged, tilling  the  land  with  buffaloes,  and  transplanting 
the  young  grain  from  its  original  bed.  Such  had 
been  the  abundance  of  rain  since  the  wet  season  com- 
menced, that  all  the  low  grounds  were  submerged,  and 
the  laborer  was  obliged  to  wade,  often  to  an  inconven- 
ient depth,  in  fulfilling  his  task. 

We  passed  a  number  of  villages,  situated  on  the 
elevated  ridges  of  land,  as  far  as  could  be  discovered, 
(for  they  are  generally  concealed  in  clusters  of  trees,) 
presenting  a  group  of  miserable  huts,  scarcely  suffi- 
cient to  shelter  their  occupants  from  the  rain,  protect 
them  from  beasts  of  prey,  and  contain  their  necessary 
supply  of  provisions.  At  intervals  along  the  road, 
sheds  were  erected  for  market-places,  where  the  na- 
tives assemble  for  traffic.  In  one  of  them,  probably 
two  or  three  thousand  were  collected.  What  a  con- 
gregation for  a  Christian  teacher !  Indeed,  every 
thing  indicated  a  dense  population,  and  seemed  to  in- 
vite the  missionary  to  come  and  be  the  instrument  of 


162  JAVA. 

raising  them  from  their  mental  and  spiritual  degra- 
dation. 

The  house  at  which  I  stopped  stands  some  distance 
from  the  main  road,  on  an  estate  of  more  than  sixty- 
square  miles,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  furious  beasts  and 
elegant  birds.  Tigers  of  the  most  dangerous  descrip- 
tion infest  the  country,  and  even  carry  away  the  na- 
tives, while  the  woods  are  enlivened  by  flocks  of  the 
majestic  and  beautiful  peacock.  The  manager  of  the 
estate  received  and  entertained  me  with  much  hospi- 
tality. The  principal  object  of  curiosity  which  I  saw 
in  accompanying  him  over  part  of  the  estate,  was  a 
large  petrified  tree,  imbedded  in  a  few  feet  of  soil. 

About  seven  this  morning,  we  left  the  estate,  and 
continued  our  journey  with  a  dispatch  proportioned 
to  the  speed  and  manageableness  of  the  ponies.    From 
this  place,  the  country  began  to  assume  an  aspect  of 
less  wildness,  which  increased  as  we   approached  Ba- 
tavia,  and  except  the  deficiency  of  comfortable  dwell- 
ings, reminded  me  forcibly  of  familiar  objects  at  home. 
The  first  appearance  of  Batavia  was   a   group   of 
houses,  extending  some  distance   along  the  road,  and 
occupied  by  Chinamen.     They  were   all   surrounded 
with  water,  many  of  them  flooded  so  as   to  be  unin- 
habitable, while  the  people  were  obliged  to  move  about 
in  boats,  or  splash  along  at  a  depth  which  admitted  of 
but  a  slow  progress.     This   spot  proved  to  be  below 
the  general  level  of  the  country,  and  we  were  happy, 
after   riding  some  distance  at  a  most   tardy  pace,  to 
emerge  from  the  flood,  and  pursue  our  way  on  dry 
land.     The  horses  were  urged  forward  at  their  usual 
speedj  through  streets  consisting  of  Chinese  houses. 


JAVA.  163 

with  a  canal  of  running  water  on  one  side,  until  we 
left  the  precincts  of  the  old  town — where  death  for- 
merly reigned  with  such  awful  sway,  and  entered  the 
vicinity  of  European  dwellings.  The  canal  still  bor- 
dered the  way,  while  handsome  residences,  with 
courts  in  front,  lined  the  opposite  side.  One  of  these> 
proved  to  be  the  hotel,  at  which  the  carriage  stopped 
about  three,  P.  M. 

After  taking  some  refreshment,  I  procured  a  con- 
veyance, and  called  on  Mr.  Medhurst,  the  English 
missionary,  by  whom  I  was  received  with  the  cordiali- 
ty and  kindness  of  a  brother  in  Christ.  To  avoid  the 
malaria  and  heat  of  the  town,  the  residents  have  built 
their  dwelUngs  over  a  large  plain,  which  extends  sev- 
eral miles  in  the  interior,  and  is  intersected  by  the 
finest  roads. 

January  24. — Yesterday,  (Sabbath.)  attended  three 
services  in  the  mission  chapel — two  in  English  and 
one  in  Malay.  Mr.  M.  is  in  the  habit  of  having 
another  service  for  those  who  speak  the  native  lan- 
guage in  town,  and  frequently  in  one  of  the  prisons, 
so  that  the  day  is  filled  up  with  active  exertions.  He 
is  assisted  by  Mr.  William  Young,  a  young  man  who 
is  capable  of  holding  service  in  Malay,  understands 
much  of  Chinese,  and  whose  ability  and  zeal  in  his 
Master's  service,  render  him  a  valuable  acquisition  to 
the  mission.  There  is  another  young  person  connect- 
ed with  the  mission,  a  native  Amboynese,  who  appears 
to  have  been  truly  converted  to  God  within  the  last 
year. 

Java  is  well  known  as  one  of  the  most  import- 
ant   colonial   possessions   attached  to   any  European 

15 


164  iAVA. 

crown.  More  than  two  centuries  have  passed  aWay 
since  the  Dutch  became  masters  of  some  of  its  best 
districts,  and  during  all  this  time  it  has  been  in  the 
hands  of  nations  professing  Protestantism.  Like  the 
other  possessions  of  the  Dutch,  it  has  received  its 
share  of  chaplains  ;  but  compared  with  the  active  zeal 
displayed  in  enlightening  the  natives  of  some  of  the 
other  islands,  scarcely  any  attempts  appear  to  have 
been  made  for  the  conversion  of  Java. 

"  The  island,"  writes  one  who  resides  there,  and 
has  long  had  the  best  opportunities  of  obtaining  the 
most  correct  information,  "  contains  a  population  of 
six  millions — four  of  whom  speak  the  Javanese  lan- 
guage, one  and  a  half  the  Sunda,  and  half  a  million 
the  Malayan.  Its  thiee  principal  towns  are  Batavia, 
Samarang,  and  Soerabaya.  Batavia  contains,  within 
a  circuit  of  twenty  miles,  three  hundred  thousand 
sotils,  of  whom  thirty  thousand  are  Chinese.  Sama- 
rang has  about  two  hundred  thousand  natives  and  ten 
thousand  Chinese,  and  Soerabaya  about  three  hun- 
dred thousand  natives  and  five  thousand  Chinese. 
There  are  besides,  about  ten  thousand  Chinese  scat- 
tered about  in  various  parts  of  the  island.  These 
three  principal  tov/ns  are  frequently  visited  by  stran- 
gers, and  no  foreigners,  who  have  not  excited  the  dis- 
pleasure of  government,  have  been  refused  permission 
to  reside  in  them. 

"  The  Dutch  systematically  avoid  establishing  mis- 
sions among  Mahommetans,  and  endeavor  to  thrust 
their  missionaries  away  into  bye  places  as  much  as 
possible.  Hence  on  the  whole  island  of  Java,  entire- 
ly under  their  own  dominion,  they  have  not  a  single 


JAVA.  165 

missionary.  Formerly,  two  missionaries  were  station- 
ed at  Christian  villages,  but  with  the  exclusive  object 
of  ministering  to  those  who  already  professisd  Chris- 
tianity.     These  are  both  dead.* 

'•  The  two  missionaries  on  the  island  are  stationed 
at  Batavia  and  Soerabaya.  The  first  has  been  allow- 
ed to  become  a  burgher,  which  entitles  him  to  the  right 
of  residence,  the  permanent  tenure  of  property,  and 
the  liberty  of  traveling  through  any  part  of  the  colo- 
ny. He  has  never  experienced  the  least  hindrance 
from  government  in  the  prosecution  of  his  work.  The 
other  missionary  has  not  been  so  much  favored.  The 
authorities  interfered  in  the  midst  of  a  most  interest- 
ing work,  and  his  testaments  and  tracts,  which  the  ea- 
ger natives  flocked  in  thousands  to  receive,  were  all 
seized.  At  Soerabaya,  some  good  people  have  formed 
themselves  into  an  auxiliary  missionary  society,  estab- 
lished a  school  for  heathen  children,  and  exerted 
themselves  in  preparing  and  distributing  tracts  among 
the  natives.  They  have  done  much,  and  would  effect 
more  if  a  missionary  resided  among  them. 

"  There  is  an  opening  for  missionaries  at  Batavia, 
Samarang,  and  Soerabaya  :  every  facility  would  be 
afforded  by  their  brethren,  in  two  of  these  settlements. 
Assistance  in  the  native  languages,  books,  residence, 
and  advice,   would  be  most  freely  given."     The  New 


♦  "  It  may  here  be  observed,  that  the  missionaries  formerly  sent  out 
by  the  Dutch  Society  were  illiterate  men,  which  added  to  the  general 
prejudice  against  missionary  efforts,  tended  to  bring  their  office  into 
contempt.  Since  then,  the  character  and  qualifications  of  their  mis- 
sionaries have  greatly  improved,  but  the  prejudice  still  continues 
strong  against  them,  and  it  seems  indigenous  to  a  Dutchman's  mind 
;o  consider  a  missionary  as  vastly  inferior  to  a  settled  minister." 


166  JAVA, 

Testament  and  other  books  have  been  translated  into 
the  Javanese,  which,  with  the  numerous  Christian 
works  printed  in  tlie  Malay  and  Chinese  languages, 
afford  the  greatest  advantages  for  effecting  immediate 
good. 

The  writer  having  accepted  the  kind  invitation  of 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Medhurst,  to  take  up  his  residence  with 
them,  devoted  his  time  principally  in  accompanying 
the  missionary  in  his  daily  labors  among  the  heathen, 
and  in  studying  that  dialect  of  the  Chinese  language 
which  is  the  most  current  in  their  foreign  settlements. 
A  journal  of  events,  kept  at  the  time,  has  already 
been  published.  A  few  extracts  will  give  the  reader 
an  idea  of  the  nature  of  the  field,  and  the  necessity  of 
aid  in  its  cultivation. 

January  26th. — Spent  part  of  this  morning  among 
the  Chinese  residents  in  town.  Mr.  M.  generally  de- 
votes a  portion  of  every  day  to  visiting  the  nativ^es  and 
Chinese,  for  the  purpose  of  conversing  and  distribu- 
ting tracts.  In  every  house  where  there  appears  to  be 
a  probability  of  engaging  the  occupants  in  conversa- 
tion, he  enters — sometimes  by  invitation — generally 
"  sans  ceremonie." 

The  Chinese  sense  of  politeness  is  such,  as  always 
to  secure  him  a  reception  sufficient  for  his  purpose. 
If  not  too  much  occupied,  they  listen  with  apparent 
attention,  and  receive  the  tracts  readily.  To  the 
dwellings  of  the  Malay  there  is  not  the  same  liberty 
of  access. 

February  4th. — In  our  usual  round,  we  visited  a 
hospital  to-day,  where  the  leprous,  blind,  and  deranged 
are  kept.     Of  the  former  class,  were  some  of  the  most 


JAVA.  167 

miserable  objects  I  ever  beheld.  Unable  to  leave  their 
couch,  with  limbs  partially  consumed,  withered,  and 
covered  with  a  loathsome  ulceration,  they  were  pecu- 
liarly calculated  to  impress  the  mind  with  a  sense  of 
the  more  deplorable,  and,  by  human  means,  equally 
incurable  malady  of  the  heart,  of  which  this  dreadful 
infliction  is  an  emblem,  and  was  a  punishment. 
"  Who  maketh  thee  to  differ  from  another  ?" 

One  of  them  mentioned  to  Mr.  Medhurst  that  he 
believed  his  disease  was  the  punishment  of  sin,  in 
a  former  life,  according  to  their  notion  of  the  metem- 
phsychosis  ;  and  when  referred  to  the  demerit  of  guilt 
in  the  present  existence,  as  a  more  plausible,  and  an 
adequate  reason,  pointed  most  significantly  in  reply,  to 
a  youth  of  but  twelve  years  of  age,  who  was  a  much 
greater  sufferer,  and  on  M.'s  presumption,  a  less  guilty 
sinner  than  himself.  Among  the  blind,  was  quite  a 
youth,  who  could  not  imagine  why  he  should  be  thus 
se\^erely  visited,  since  he  once  saved  the  life  of  a  fel- 
low being,  at  the  hazard  of  his  own.  Self-righteous- 
ness with  its  consequence — a  disposition  to  murmur 
against  the  afflictive  dispensations  of  Providence,  alas, 
how  prevalent  in  every  country  ! 

Mr.  Medhurst  frequently  avails  himself  of  the  mo- 
ral precepts  of  their  sages,  as  an  admitted  rule  of  con- 
duct, and  then,  upon  their  confession  of  guilt,  declares 
the  only  way  in  which  God  can  be  just,  and  the  sin- 
ner j«9*tfied. 

February  5th. — Have  just  returned  from  an  inter- 
esting visit  to  one  of  the  bazaars  ;  about  two  or  three 
thousand  natives  and  Chinese  were  collected.  The 
latter  compose  the  great  majority  of  tradesmen  in  Ba- 
15* 


168  JAVA. 

t-avia,  being-  more  ingenious,  active,  shrewd,  and  gain- 
seeking  than  the  natives.  Wherever  money  is  to  be 
made  by  dint  of  traffic,  manufacture,  gambhng  or  gul- 
hng,  Chinamen  are  sure  to  be  found.  Acquainted 
from  long  experience  with  the  best  mode  of  gaining 
his  object,  M.  went  directly  into  a  part  of  the  market, 
where  the  men  generally  resort  after  their  most  im- 
portant business  is  finished,  to  purchase  as  much  to- 
bacco as  they  require  before  the  next  market  day. 
The  anxieties  of  trade  have  so  far  subsided  before 
they  reach  this  place,  as  to  render  it  much  less  diffi- 
cult to  secure  their  attention  to  an  object,  which  yields 
no  immediate  palpable  advantage.  His  success  in 
gaining  their  audience,  and  in  awakening  a  desire  to 
obtain  books,  was  truly  animating.  In  a  very  short 
time  his  budget  of  tracts — many  of  them  of  a  large 
size,  as  the  Gospel  of  Matthew,  had  entirely  disap- 
peared. 

What  is  remarkable  and  very  encouraging,  is  the 
surprising  change  evinced  in  the  disposition  of  the 
natives  within  the  last  year.  Until  this  recent  date, 
he  was  obliged  to  return  with  the  number  of  his 
books  undiminished.  He  scarcely  succeeded  in  dis- 
tributing a  dozen  copies  in  as  many  months,  on  ac- 
count of  the  influence  and  dread  of  their  Mahomme- 
tan  priests  and  rulers.  Since  the  commencement  of 
this  happy,  and  as  far  as  visible  means  are  concerned, 
unaccountable  change  in  the  minds  of  the  people, 
hundreds  have  been  distributed  without  the  least  dif- 
ficulty. 

Another  fact,  full  of  promise,  connected  with  the 
reception  of  these  books,  is  the  eagerness  of  the  natives 


JAVA.  169 

to  understand  their  contents,  and  the  means  they  of- 
ten employ  to  obtain  this  knowledge.  It  is  said,  that 
those  unacquainted  with  letters  will  go  through  their 
villages  to  have  the  books  read,  and  that  rather  than 
remain  ignorant  of  their  truths,  they  will  carry  them 
to  the  chief  men,  and  even  the  priests  themselves. 
M.  says  that  these  very  rulers  and  priests,  who 
were  formerly  so  distant  and  ill-disposed  toward  him 
and  his  poison^  have  condescended  to  come  and  solicit 
Christian  books  for  their  own  perusal.  Yet  nothing 
beyond  the  simple  disposition  to  receive  and  read  these 
books,  has  thus  far  appeared.  The  valley  remains  in 
deathful  silence,  and  the  bones  are  very  dry ;  but  the 
prophet  has  entered  ;  '•  thus  saith  the  Lord  God,"  be- 
gins to  be  heard,  and  we  look  and  pray  for  the  breath 
of  Jehovah  to  come  and  breathe  upon  the  slain. 

14th. — Yesterday,  (Sabbath,)  besides  the  ordina'ry 
English  and  Malay  services  in  the  mission  chapel,  we 
visited  a  large  prison  containing  about  three  hundred 
native  convicts.  The  missionary,  or  one  of  the  young 
men  who  assist  him,  holds  service  here  every  Sabbath. 
It  was  a  subject  of  considerable  anxiety  to  the  prison- 
ers, chiefly  Mahommetans,  at  the  commencement  of 
these  religious  exercises,  to  ascertain  the  precise  ob- 
jects of  the  preacher.  Some  imagined  that  the  re- 
demption to  which  he  referred,  was  deliverance  from 
chains  and  imprisonment.  Others  were  filled  with 
apprehension,  and  fancied  from  his  statements  of  the 
evil  and  demerit  of  sin,  that  they  were  forthwith  to 
be  sold  as  slaves,  and  transported  to  some  distant 
country. 

With  a  few  exceptions,  they  all  assembled  beneath 


170  JAVA. 

a  cluster  of  large  shady  trees,  and  remained  in  a  sitting- 
posture,  until  the  services  were  closed.  The  counte- 
nances of  many  of  them  disclosed  an  interest  in  the 
subject,  which  could  not  fail  to  animate  the  speaker. 
One  of  the  prisoners  who  died  a  short  time  since, 
gave  pleasing  evidence  of  the  benefit  of  these  instruc- 
tions, and  confided  his  departing  spirit  into  the  hands 
of  the  Savior,  of  whom  he  had  heard  in  this  place  of 
confinement.  Thus  the  very  prison  may  become  the 
gate  of  heaven,  and  the  fetters  of  the  guilty,  the  ap- 
pointed instrument  to  keep  them  back  from  destruction, 
and  ''  compel  them  to  come  in." 

17th. — For  nearly  a  week,  the  Chinese  have  been 
enjoying  their  greatest  holyday.  It  is  with  them,  the 
season  of  new  year  ;  work  is  generally  suspended — 
their  best  robes  are  displayed — children  are  loaded 
with  costly  ornaments,  and  carried  in  complimentary 
form  from  house  to  house,  while  the  best  wishes  for 
temporal  prosperity,  a  long  purse  and  life,  are  inter- 
changed. The  tables  groan  beneath  their  luxurious 
burdens — the  gods  are  supplied  with  every  variety  of 
eatables,  and  their  faces  are  tinged  with  the  smoke  of 
tapers  and  incense.  Every  one  yields  himself  up  to 
pleasure ;  and  gambling,  the  delight  of  the  nation, 
groups  its  votaries  "  in  the  house  and  by  the  way- 
side." 

When  we  enter  their  dwellings,  tea  is  generally 
handed  round  in  small  cups,  and  the  pipe  is  seldom 
used  before  they  offer  it  to  the  visitor. 

Here,  as  at  Canton,  the  most  common  figure,  before 
which  they  offer  their  sacrifices,  is  the  representative 
of  an  ancient  deified  hero,  called  in  the  Mandarin  dia- 


JAVA.  171 

lect,  Kwanfootze,  He  has  been  adopted  by  the  reign- 
ing Tartar  family  as  their  patron  deity.  An  imperial 
proclamation  was  issued,  commanding  the  homage  of 
the  whole  empire  to  this  pretended  god  of  war.  In 
every  painting  he  appears  as  an  exceeding  gross,  ill- 
favored  being,  with  an  idiotical  formation  of  head, 
small  lengthened  eyes,  running  up  the  forehead,  brows 
extending  to  an  elevation  of  nearly  forty-five  degrees ; 
ears  reaching  almost  in  a  line  with  the  top  of  the  head, 
with  a  forehead  not  unlike  the  upper  part  of  a  cone, 
and  cheeks  and  chin  resembling  its  extended  base. 
To  this  is  added  a  long  spare  beard,  which  he  is  stro- 
king in  calm  reflection  with  his  right  hand. 

Behind  his  chair  stands  a  black  figure,  said  to  rep- 
resent an  adjutant — holding  a  huge  weapon  in  his 
hand,  with  a  countenance  of  deadly  rage,  his  eyes 
bursting  from  their  swollen  sockets — and  in  a  stoop- 
ing posture,  as  if  communicating  the  most  exaspera- 
ting intelligence  to  the  unruffled  warrior. 

The  former,  though  the  most  common,  is  by  no 
means  the  only  image  employed  for  religious  purposes. 
A  celebrated  Esculapius,  of  whose  surgical  and  magi- 
cal powers  the  most  fabulous  legends  are  preserved 
and  credited,  often  occupies  the  place  appointed  for 
the  deity,  on  the  wall  opposite  the  door  of  entrance, 
and  receives  the  adoration  of  the  household.  He  is 
painted  in  the  act  of  conjuring  an  invisible  being, 
with  his  face  toward  the  heavens,  and  a  small  wand 
in  his  outstretched  hand,  while  a  hideous  figure  an- 
swering to  their  idea  of  a  dragon — which  they  ima- 
gine to  be  the  chief  agent  in  the  kingdom  of  Provi- 
dence— answers  the   summons,  and  appears  in  the 


172  JAVA. 

clouds.  Other  representations  are  often  preferred,  not 
unfrequently  the  form  of  a  female,  and  by  some,  mere- 
ly the  Chinese  character  for  spirit,  happiness,  long 
life,  wealth,  &c.  Small  images  placed  before  these 
paintings  are  also  common. 

21st. — In  our  rounds  to-day,  we  met  a  Chinaman 
from  the  province  of  Teo-chew,  or  Tay-chew,  who 
related  some  of  the  horrid  cruelties  practiced  upon  the 
female  infants  of  the  common  people.  He  says  the 
custom  of  infanticide  is  almost  universal  among  this 
class  of  the  community.  If  the  parent  supposes  that 
the  marriage  portion  received  for  the  bride,  will  be 
greater  than  the  expense  of  bringing  her  up,  she  is 
allowed  to  live  ;  but  if  he  apprehends  straightened 
circumstances  before,  or  a  failure  at  the  time,  she  is 
always  dispatched.  The  disproportion  of  sexes  is  so 
great,  that  in  a  village  of  three  thousand  men,  not 
more  than  three  or  four  hundred  can  procure  wives. 
If  you  expostulate  with  them  on  their  worse  than 
brutal  cruelty,  they  reply  with  the  most  unnatural  ap- 
athy, "  rice  is  dear,  and  no  benefit  will  accrue  to  us 
from  raising  these  children.  As  soon  as  they  are 
married,  they  become  the  property  of  another,  and  as 
they  are  not  allowed  to  marry  relations,  or  even  those 
of  the  same  family  name,  they  join  another  clan,  and 
only  support  them  in  their  rivalry." 

March  22d. — Arose  early,  and  rode  about  eighteen 
or  twenty  miles  in  the  country,  to  a  village  inhabited 
by  natives  and  Chinese,  and  containing  a  few  Euro- 
pean dwellings.  We  selected  Tuesday,  because  it  is 
the  principal  market  day  in  the  week.  The  Amboy- 
uese  convert,  to  whom  reference  has  been  made,  starts 


JAVA,  lf3 

cd  yesterday  afternoon,  with  about  two  hundred  Ma- 
lay tracts,  and  as  many  Chinese.  On  our  arrival  w© 
found  him  surrounded  by  the  natives,  and  actively 
eno^aged  in  his  interesting  work. 

The  scene  was  one  of  lively  interest.  Wherever 
the  teacher  took  his  station,  a  crowd  resorted,  and  lis- 
tened attentively  to  the  doctrines  ot  the  gospel.  That 
the  truth  might  be  the  more  widely  proclaimed,  every 
part  of  the  bazaar  was  visited,  and  in  the  course  of 
two  hours,  not  a  tract  remained  in  our  possession. 

There  was  much  of  that  melancholy  interest  on  the 
rOad,  which  is  felt  in  passing  through  the  deserted  ru- 
ins of  a  once  populous  city.  Extensive  avenues  of 
trees,  courts  overgrown  with  shrubbery,  and  gate- 
posts still  standing,  mark  the  situations,  where,  in 
days  of  eastern  prosperity,  large  mansions  appeared. 
Batavia  presents  many  such  relics  of  the  past  age,  im- 
pressing upon  the  mind  the  moral  of  those  changes, 
which  a  thoughtless  world  dreading,  hasten  upon 
themselves.  To  many  of  the  living  it  requires  no 
stretch  of  memory,  and  to  the  youna:,  no  strength  of 
fancy,  to  conjure  up  the  scenes  of  life  and  gaiety  in 
which  the  past  generation  figured.  Statrly  buildings 
adorn  the  face  of  the  country — the  festive  halls  are 
lighted — the  giddy  throng  assemble  —peals  of  exhila- 
rating music  swell  upon  the  ear,  and  for  a  moment  en- 
trance the  soul  ;  successive  nights  are  spen.t  in  feast- 
ing, and  every  species  of  amusement ;  and  the  as- 
sembly breaks  up,  only  to  restore  their  flagging  pow- 
ers for  another  encounter. 

,  A  living  witness  informed  me,  that  he  had  been 
present  when  two  hundred  were  invited,  and  where 


174  JAVA. 

the  revel  continued  for  as  much  of  three  successive 
days  and  nights,  as  the  powers  of  nature  would  ad- 
mit. He  has  known  balls  with  their  luxurious  ac- 
companiments to  be  kept  up,  at  one  house,  for  three 
consecutive  nights. 

But  there  are  other  visions  of  an  opposite  charac- 
ter, associated  in  fancy  with  the  history  of  Batavia, 
and  called  up  by  these  desolations.  The  place  is  one 
aceldema,  where  residents  and  visitors,  natives  and 
strangers,  men  of  every  country,  class,  and  clime,  have 
found  a  common  grave. 

It  must  have  required  more  than  an  ordinary  strug- 
gle to  debar  from  the  minds  of  the  gradually  thinning, 
and  .still  assembling  votaries  of  pleasure,  the  intru- 
ding question,  "  Who  of  us  shall  meet  again  ?"  What 
a  strange,  unnatural  connection,  between  the  powerful 
ravages  of  death,  and  the  thoughtless  revels  of  the 
dying !  It  is  like  decking  the  victims  of  the  mon- 
ster with  the  votive  wreath,  and  leading  them  gaily 
forth' to  the  dreaded  altar.* 

March  25th. — An  hour  was  spent  this  morning  in 
conversation  with  a  number  of  Cochin-Chinese.  It 
was  conducted  partly  in  French,  a  limited  knowledge 
of  which  they  had  ^acquired  from  the  Roman  Catholic 
priests  in  their  country,  partly  in  Malay,  picked  up  in 
trading,  and  partly  by  means  of  the  Chinese  written 
character.  They  professed  the  Catholic  religion,  and 
evinced  a  degree  of  caution  and  bigotry,  which   had 

*  If  from  what  has  been  ascribed  to  an  exhausting  sun  and  pesti- 
lential malaria,  were  deducted  the  eflects  of  the  excitable  and  irregu- 
lar living  of  the  East,  Batavia,  and  other  tropical  regions,  would  be 
stripped  of  many  oi  those  sepulchral  associations  with  which  they  are 
now  shrouded. 


JAVA*  in 

no  doubt  been  inspired  by  their  caculating  leaders. 
To  employ  their  own  expression^  there  were  thousands 
upon  thousands  of  Catholics  in  the  country,  and 
priests  from  France^  Portugal,  Bengal  and  America* 
They  spoke  of  convents  belonging  to  different  orders 
of  monks.  It  was  quite  evident  from  their  questions 
and  remarks  that  they  had  been  apprised  of  the  exer- 
tions of  Protestants,  and  prepared  for  a  probable  en- 
counter. 

A  tract  was  presented,  containing  nothing  obnox- 
ious to  Catholicism,  but  their  imagination  soon  fur-, 
nished  it  with  the  most  pernicious  doctrines,  and 
though  they  did  not  read  a  single  page,  they  were 
perfectly  aware  of  its  soul  destroying  contents.  Their 
principal  objections  to  the  religion  of  the  Dutch  and 
English  were,  the  want  of  celibacy  among  the  priests, 
and  of  auricular  confession  among  the  people.  They 
spoke  of  the  instruction  they  had  derived  from  cate- 
chisms— 'Such  as  the  frequent  worship  of  "  la  tres 
sainte  rierge,"  but  upon  being  asked  if  they  had  read 
the  Bible,  replied  in  Chinese,  it  was  forbidden,  disap- 
proved, adding  in  French,  "  It  is  contraband."  One  of 
them  inquired  of  M.  how  many  disciples  he  had. 
The  indirect  reply  was,  that  he  deemed  something 
beyond  the  mere  profession  indispensable  to  true  re- 
ligioU)  and  consequently  never  included  in  such  an 
estimate,  those  who  were  not  sincere.  "  Ah,"  said  the 
shrewd  inquirer,  "  the  fault  is  in  your  doctrines  ;  if 
they  were  true,  there  would  be  no  lack  of  genuine 
disciples."  He  was  asked  what  he  considered  true 
doctrine.  "  Oh,"  said  he  ironically,  "  your  books  are 
full  of  it."  But  you  know  nothing  of  the  contents  of 
16 


if  6  uya^ 

our  books,  and  how  are  you  qualified  to  condehiil 
them.  "  I  have  no  time,"  said  he,  "  to  prattle  any 
longer  with  you,"  and  waited  only  long  enough  to 
hear  that  the  truth  was  of  sufficient  importance  to  de- 
mand his  time,  and  that  a  good  man  ought  to  make  it 
a  matter  of  most  diligent  inquiry.* 

This  then  is  the  effect  of  Romanism,  falsely  termed 
Christianity,  and  this  the  batrier  it  erects  against  the 
pure  doctrines  of  the  cross.  If  the  word  of  these 
men  can  be  relied  on,  how  widely  prevalent  must  be 
its  errors,  and  anti-christian  its  influence  in  Coch in- 
China. 

March  29th. — Having  made  arrangements  to  make 
a  tour  of  about  sixteen  or  eighteen  miles  in  the  coun- 
try, we  arose  this  morning  and  pursued  our  journey 
some  distance  by  the  light  of  the  moon.  The  un- 
disturbed serenity  of  the  hour — the  somber  shade  of 
the  forest,  and  the  pale  beauties  of  the  open  land- 
scape— the  freshness  of  the  dewy  morning,  and  above 
all,  the  tranquilizing  influence  of  the  moon  with  its 
thousand  associations,  combined  to  produce  the  most 
delightful  effect  upon  the  mind  sobered  by  a  tempora- 
ry suspension  of  thought,  and  still  unruffled  by  the 
cares  of  the  day. 


*  Since  writing  the  above,  ten  Roman  Catholic  Missionaries,  in- 
cluding four  natives  and  six  Europeans,  have  arrived  at  Batavia,  on 
their  way  to  Cochin-China.  According  to  their  statement,  there  are 
three  hundred  thousand  Roman  Catholics  in  Cochin-China  and  Ton- 
quin.  According  to  the  authority  upon  which  the  number  of  Catho- 
lics is  given  in  China,  there  are  in  Tonquin  and  Cochin-China,  four 
Bishops,  fifteen  European  missionaries,  upwards  of  one  hundred  na- 
tive missionaries,  and  more  than  four  hundred  thousand  converts. 
More  than  three  fourths  of  this  number  are  in  Tonquin,  now  subject 
to  Cochin-Chinaj 


SJLYA.  ITT 

Oil  account  of  the  frequent  rains,  and  the  bad  state 
of  those  roads  which  are  not  kept  at  the  expense  of 
government,  we  were  obliged  to  exchange  oar  mode 
of  conveyance  after  the  first  four  miles,  and  make  the 
whole  of  the  remaining  journey  on  horseback.  Such 
was  the  depth  and  tenacity  of  the  mud  in  some  spots, 
that  the  horses  could  scarcely  proceed,  and  the  bridges 
which  were  covered  with  a  wicker  work  of  bamboo, 
were  so  wet  and  smooth  before  the  sun  appeared,  that 
once  my  horse  slipt  and  fell  in  an  instant,  and  had  it 
not  been  for  a  sudden  and  successful  feat  of  agility,  by 
which  I  found  myself  standing  at  his  side,  my  limbs 
would  probably  have  been  crushed. 

There  was  nothing  remarkable  in  the  face  of  the 
country.  The  land  was  generally  level,  the  smaller 
elevations  being  selected  for  the  site  of  native  villages, 
and  the  low  grounds  covered  with  rice.  We  passed 
near  the  establishment  of  the  former  Rajah  of  the  islr 
and.  The  only  insignia  of  royalty  remaining,  are 
three  or  four  beautiful  waringin  trees,  always  planted 
in  Java  before  the  houses  of  native  princes. 

One  of  the  descendants  of  the  royal  family  joined 
us  on  horseback,  and  continued  some  distance  in  the 
way  we  were  traveling.  He  conversed  sensibly  on 
the  subject  of  religion,  and  although  professedly  Ma- 
homedan,  did  not  pretend  to  palliate  the  evil  conse- 
quences of  some  of  the  prophet's  doctrines,  nor  refuse 
to  receive  a  Christian  book. 

About  nine  o'clock  we  reached  a  small  settlement 
of  Portuguese,  whose  ancestors,  by  the  might  and 
'power  of  the  sword,  were  obliged  to  renounce  Catholic 
gism  4nd  embrace   the  Protestant  faith.     Havijig  left 


178  JAVA. 

word  that  we  would  return  in  time  to  preach,  we  con- 
tinued our  journey  about  three  miles  farther,  to  the 
market  place. 

In  this  part  of  our  way  the  country  was  adorned 
\v^ith  the  most  extensive  groves  of  cocoa-nuts  I  ever- 
beheld.  The  oil  of  this  nut  is  much  employed  by 
the  natives,  both  in  their  cooking  and  in  anointing 
their  bodies.  By  the  time  we  reached  our  destination, 
the  rays  of  the  sun  were  very  oppressive  ;  but  the 
sheds  under  which  the  natives  assembled  afforded 
some  relief,  and  enabled  us  to  prosecute  our  labors. 
Mr.  M.  and  the  Amboynese  convert  who  accompanied 
us,  spent  two  or  three  hours  in  preaching  to  the  na- 
tives and  distributing  books.  The  crowd  was  not  as 
great  as  at  other  places  we  had  visited,  although  the 
tracts  were  disposed  of  with  little  difficulty. 

We  noticed  two  or  three  young  men,  better  habited 
and  in  appearance  more  intelligent  than  the  common 
class,  whose  conduct  betrayed  their  opposition  to  our 
object.  Having  watched  their  suspicious  movement, 
and  found  that  they  were  not  satisfied  with  what  tracts 
they  had  procured,  but  were  impudently  helping  them- 
selves to  others,  M.  took  from  them  what  they  had  re- 
ceived, and  refused  to  give  them  a  single  one.  This 
determined  measure  had  the  desired  effect ;  they  soon 
disappeared. 

We  returned  to  the  Portuguese  settlement  about 
mid-day,  and  after  resting  an  hour,  and  taking  some 
refreshment,  were  invited  to  the  house  of  God,  by  the 
Ijamiliar  tones  of  the  church-going  bell.  About  thirty 
convened  in  an  old  building  erected  in  1674,  after  the 
ancient  style  of  Dutch   architecture.     Mr.  Medhurst 


JAVA.  179 

addressed  the  assembly,  endeavoring  to  impress  some 
of  the  lessons  of  Christianity,  which  it  is  very  evident 
they  knew  merely  in  theory.  They  had  been  favor- 
ed with  the  labors  of  a  missionary,  whose  bones  now 
repose  before  the  door  of  the  church.  To  me,  the 
occasion  was  imusually  impressive,  and  though  I  un- 
derstood but  little  of  the  language,  my  reflections 
were  I  hope  not  without  profit.  It  was  strange  to 
find  a  house  dedicated  to  God  amid  these  wilds  of  hea- 
thenism— strange  that  it  should  have  stood  a  century 
and  a  half  in  such  a  placJe,  and  still  more  deplorable 
than  strange  that  its  light  should  have  been  so  com- 
pletely lost  during  all  this  time,  in  the  darkness  that 
surrounds  it. 

I  was  surprised  and  grieved  to  find  that  the  mis- 
sionary conceived  himself  under  no  obligations  to 
preach  to  the  unchristianized  natives,  and  that  their 
unhallowed  feet  were  not  allowed  to  tread  the  thresh- 
hold  of  this  sacred  place.  No  wonder  its  own  chil- 
dren have  dwindled  to  a  handful,  and  its  light  become 
well  nigh  extinct. 

March  31st. — This  evening,  attended  service  in  the 
Dutch  church,  preparatory  to  the  sacrament.  This 
ordinance  is  administered  twice  a  year  in  Batavia,  one 
of  these  occasions  being  on  good  Friday,  which  oc- 
curs to-morrow.  When  we  entered,  the  clerk  was 
reading  the  Bible,  and  continued  until  the  dominie 
commenced.  Singing  and  reading  the  Scriptures  are 
always  continued  half  an  hour  before  the  service,  du- 
ring which  time  it  is  expected  that  the  congregation 
will  assemble. 

The  order  of  service  was  very  different  from  that 
16* 


180  JAVA. 

observed  in  the  Dutch  churches  m  America.  The 
minister  commenced  by  pronouncing  a  blessing  upon 
the  congregation,  which  was  received  standing,  after 
which  a  hymn  was  sung,  the  exordium  remotum  de- 
livered, and  prayer  offered.  Then  the  text  was  an- 
nounced, and  the  first  division  of  the  subject  exhaust- 
ed, which  was  followed  by  singing,  a  long  exhorta- 
tion to  alms-giving,  and  two  collections  for  the  church 
and  the  poor.  These  were  received  in  the  black  hag^ 
w4th  a  small  bell  at  the  bottom.  When  the  exhorta- 
tion to  charity  was  concluded,  the  deacons  left  their 
places,  and  the  second  division  of  the  subject  was  re- 
sumed, and  continued  amid  the  noise  and  confusion 
of  their  employment,  and  probably  half  an  hour  after 
they  had  finished.  Another  hymn  was  then  sung, 
after  which  all  who  expected  to  commune  on  the  ap- 
proaching day,  were  requested  to  arise  and  answer  a 
number  of  questions  in  regard  to  their  faith.  With 
a  very  few  exceptions,  the  whole  congregation  arose. 
This  was  succeeded  by  a  prayer,  the  publication  of 
new  members,  a  hymn,  and  the  blessing.  My  com- 
panion, who  understood  the  sermon,  repeated  its  sub- 
stance on  our  return  home.  The  subject  was  the  bu- 
rial of  the  Savior  by  Joseph  of  Arimathea,  and  Nico- 
demus.  The  speaker  was  animated  and  eloquent,  but 
his  exhibition  of  doctrine  and  character  was  lamenta- 
bly defective. 

The  Dutch  church  in  these  islands  was  planted 
nearly  the  time,  when  our  fathers  colonized  New  Am- 
sterdam. That  zeal  for  the  Savior's  glory,  and  at- 
tachment to  the  doctrines  of  her  standards,  character- 
ized the  eastern  branch  of  the  mother  church  equally 


JAVA,  181 

with  the  western,  is  proved  by  historic  testimony. 
We  have  one  of  the  least  ambiguous  evidences  of  this 
fact  in  the  ardor  and  enterprise  with  which  her  minis- 
ters engaged  in  the  duty  of  evangehzing  the  heathen 
around  them.  The  Bible  was  translated — works  of 
much  utility  and  merit  were  written — preaching  was 
commenced — schools  opened — in  fact,  every  thing 
which  could  be  attempted  for  the  heathen,  was  done 
by  these  men ;  missionary  societies  were  then  un- 
known. 

How  long  the  church  continued  unimpeachable  in 
doctrines  and  morals,  we  have  no  data  to  determine. 
The  history  as  far  as  it  goes,  and  tradition  subsequent- 
ly, depend  for  their  faithfulness  so  much  npon  the  sen- 
timents of  those  by  whom  they  were  written  or  pre- 
served, that  unless  we  can  determine  the  character  of 
the  recorder  or  narrator,  we  cannot  decide  upon  the 
right  interpretation  of  his  facts. 

The  deterioration  of  the  churches  at  home  :  the 
neglecting  to  appoint  chaplains,  when  the  company 
was  disorganized  ;  the  subordination  of  the  ministry 
to  the  secular  power;*  the  dissipated  habits  of  Eastern 
society,  added  to  the  worldly  spirit  and  unsound  faith 
of  many  of  the  chaplains,  are  quite  sufficient  to  ac- 
count for  the  sad  change  which  came  over  this  once 
flourishing  part  of  the  Savior's  vineyard. 

April  5th. — To  day  is  the  commencement  of  the 
cheng  heng  in  the  Mandarin  dialect,  tsing  ming  sea- 
son, when  the  Chinese  repair  to  the  graves  of  the  de- 


*  This  may  result  as  much  from  the  management  of  the  local  offi- 
•cers  as  from  the  disposition  of  the  general  |;overament. 


182  JAVA, 

ceased  and  sacrifice  to  their  manes.  Desirous  of  im- 
proving" the  opportunity  of  usefulness,  we  visited  the 
largest  cemetery  in  the  vicinity  of  Batavia,  and  spent 
part  of  the  morning  in  conversation  and  distributing 
tracts.  Many  thousands  were  present,  though  in  none 
could  Ave  discover  that  solemnity,  or  sadness  of  asso- 
ciation, which  we  generally  connect  with  the  place  of 
the  dead,  and  which  might  be  thought  to  result  from 
communion  with  invisible  spirits. 

The  graves,  with  a  few  exceptions,  were  adorn- 
ed with  colored  paper;  one  of  the  sepulchers  of 
the  great  was  covered  with  mats,  and  converted  into 
a  scene  of  pompous  ceremony  and  shameful  carousal. 
This  tomb  was  more  magnificent  than  any  thing  of 
the  kind  I  had  seen  in  China.  It  occupied  enough 
ground  to  bury  one  hundred  men  in  ordinary  graves, 
was  composed  of  a  high  and  spacious  mound,  with  a 
platform  of  cement  in  front,  surrounded  with  a  wall, 
and  decorated  with  pilasters  of  the  same  material. 
Two  hideous  stone  figures,  more  like  lions  than  any 
other  creatures  of  earthly  shape,  were  seated  on  pe- 
destals to  guard  the  entrance.  On  the  platform,  cov- 
ering an  area  of  about  fifty  feet  by  twenty,  was  spread 
a  table,  with  a  great  variety  of  viands,  fruits,  preserves, 
(fee,  denominated  a  sacrifice  to  the  dead,  but  design- 
ed to  gorge  the  living.  Before  the  table  two  men 
were  kneeling,  one  with  his  head  to  the  ground,  the 
other  holding  a  small  tablet  in  his  hand,  from  which 
he  read  for  the  information  of  the  departed  spirit,  an 
address  concerning  the  devotion  of  the  relatives,  and 
their  desire  to  be  reciprocally  honored.  The  tablet 
was  pronounced  in  a  corruption  of  the  Mandarin  dia- 


JAVA.  183 

lect,  which  is  generally  considered  the  most  dignified 
expression  of  the  Chinese  character.  This  being 
performed,  the  men  arose,  the  assembly  began  to  talk 
and  laugh,  the  music  struck  up,  and  the  dead  were 
soon  forgotten.  We  did  not  remain  to  witness  the  rev- 
el which  ensues.* 

Stages  were  erected  before  the  temple,  upon  which 
children  were  acting  for  the  amusement  of  the  popu- 
lace. Mr.  Medhursl  was  interrupted  in  publishing 
the  Gospel  to  this  multitude,  by  a  deranged  China- 
man, who  has  either  conceived  a  strange  disposition 
to  ridicule  the  missionary,  or  been  incited  by  others  to 
oppose  him.  He  appeared  with  a  book  in  his  hand, 
and  after  the  manner  of  M.  pretended  to  quote  a  pas- 
sage and  explain  it  to  the  people.  His  conversation 
to-day  was  very  obscene;  generally  he  conceives  a 
most  absurd  sentiment,  which  he  gravely  repeats  in 
the  reading  dialect,  as  though  borrowed  from  some 
sacred  book,  and  then  descants  on  its  meaning  in  the 
colloquial,  to  the  great  amusement  of  his  auditory. 
Many  tracts  were  distributed,  and  instructive  senti- 
ments expressed  before  we  returned. 

7th. — This  morning  visited  a  temple  dedicated  to 
Twa-Sai-Yah,  the  son  of  a  mandarin,    who  presided 


*  The  tombs  pf  the  wealthy  generally  face  A  pond  of  water,  and  ex- 
tend to  its  edge!  The  Chinese  have  a  strange  superstition  connected 
with  what  they  term  "  fung  shuy,"  which  expression  means,  wind 
and  water,  and  appears  to  be  applied  to  the  science  of  determining 
the  sites  of  buildings  and  graves.  When  the  dead  are  displeased 
with  the  situation  of  their  sepulchers,  some  temporal  calamity — gene- 
rally a  want  of  success  in  making  money,  is  thought  to  be  a  certain 
evidence  and  infliction.  A  small  temple  is  erected  on  the  ground, 
most  frequently  dedicated  to  the  god  of  happiness,  and  believed  to  con- 
ciliate the  spirit  of  the  place. 


1&4  JAVA, 

over  the  district  of  Teo.  Twa^  i^oArien  province.  Tho 
image  is  represented  with  an  extended  sword  in  the 
right  hand.  The  father  was  appointed  to  office  du- 
ring the  present  dynasty,  and  it  is  remarkable  that  the 
alledged  circumstance  for  which  the  son  was  deified, 
so  incredible  in  its  nature,  and  yet  so  widely  credited, 
should  be  of  such  a  recent  date.  On  the  arrival  of 
the  mandarin  to  the  place  of  his  appointment,  he  was 
informed  that  a  gigantic  snail,  or  rather  an  incarnate 
elf  under  that  form,  held  its  abode  in  a  lake  or  pond 
of  the  district,  and  annually  devoured  hundreds  of 
men. 

The  same  fact  was  stated  to  the  son  of  the  officer, 
a  heroic  youth,  who  seized  a  sword,  plunged  in  the 
pond,  and  appeared  no  more.  The  water  was  drain- 
ed, and  the  young  man  was  found  standing  upon  the 
monster,  having  transfixed  his  body,  and  rather  than 
lose  his  prey,  held  him  in  that  position,  until  they  both 
had  perished. 

The  men  who  have  erected  the  temple  we  visited, 
and  who  came  from  that  district  of  China,  say  that 
the  shell  of  this  huge  creature  has  been  employed  for 
an  incense  vase,  in  a  temple  erected  to  the  honor  of  the 
heroj  ever  since  the  event ;  and  that  it  measures  one 
yard  in  diameter.  It  is  from  a  strange  idea  that  dis- 
tinguished men  on  earth  are  equally  distinguished 
in  heaven,  and  capable  of  affi)rding  assistance  to  mor- 
tals, that  they  are  induced  to  multiply  their  temples, 
upon  the  demise  of  every  extraordinary  character. 

Mr.  M.  has  witnessed  some  of  the  incantations 
which  they  practice,  to  obtain  the  inspiration  of  such 
deified  men.     Upon  the  performance  of  some  ridicu- 


jAvi.  185 

loiis  ceremony,  the  subject  becomes  convulsed,  exerts 
himself  with  violencCj  frequently  cuts  his  body  with  a 
sword,  and  when  necessarily  composed  from  the  exhaus- 
tion of  effort  and  pain,  is  thought  to  be  tranquilized 
by  the  influence  of  the  deity,  and  prepared  to  answer 
such  questions  as  are  proposed.  As  the  inquiries  are 
generally  about  matters  of  deep  interest,  his  replies 
are  noted  down  with  all  possible  dispatch,  and  his  ad- 
vice carefully  and  confidently  followed.  The  evi- 
dence of  true  inspiration,  is  the  rapidity  with  which 
his  wounds  heal,  and  the  success  which  attends  his 
prescriptions. 

How  far  Satan  may  be  allowed  id  assist  in  these 
delusions,  none  can  determine  ;  but  that  there  is  some- 
thing like  infernal  interventioUj  or  most  stupid  credu^ 
lity,  perhaps  both,  is  very  probable  to  those  who  have 
any  tolerable  acquaintance  with  heathen  lands. 

April  14. — This  afternoon,  we  rode  about  six  miles 
in  the  country,  and  attended  a  Chinese  ceremony, 
Which  reminded  us  of  the  "  bloody  rites  of  Moloch." 
It  occurs  on  the  birth-day  of  one  of  the  Taou  gods, 
and  is  performed  by  running  barefoot  through  a  large 
heap  of  ignited  charcoal.  The  pile  was  about  ten  or 
twelve  feet  square,  and  nearly  two  feet  in  hight.  It 
threw  out  an  intense  heat.  The  crowd  was  large,  and 
the  crash  of  gongs  almost  deafening.  On  our  arrival 
we  found  two  priests  standing  near  the  fire,  earnestly 
reading  a  book,  though  the  noise  drowned  their  voi- 
ces, and  performing  a  variety  of  strange  acts,  which 
they  appeared  to  derive  from  its  pages.  One  of  them 
held  a  cow's  horn  in  his  hand,  with  which  he  occa- 
sionally assisted  the  noise,  while  the  other,  after  burn- 


i§6  JAVA* 

ing  paper,  and  makino^  his  obeisance,  advanced  to  the 
fire,  sprinkled  water  upon  the  heap,  struck  it  violently 
with  a  sword,  threw  in.  more  of  the  paper,  bowed  his 
head,  and  frequently  gazed  upwards  with  an  express 
sion  of  most  intense  earnestness,  his  body  being,  as 
might  be  supposed,  bathed  in  perspiration.  After  this, 
they  both  approached  the  fire,  went  through  a  num^ 
ber  of  antics,  and  finally  dashed  through  the  coals. 
A  passage  was  kept  clear  from  an  adjacent  temple  to 
the  spot,  and  as  soon  as  the  priests  had  set  the  example, 
a  number  of  persons,  old  and  young,  came  running 
from  the  temple  with  idols  in  their  hands,  and  carried 
them  through  the  fire.  Others  followed  the  example, 
and  among  them  an  old  man^  who  rathet  staggered 
than  walked  in  the  midst  of  the  heap.  This  part  of 
the  ceremony  lasted  but  a  few  minutes,  and  the  crowd 
soon  dispersed. 

It  is  thought  to  be  a  test  of  the  moral  character  of 
those  who  attempt  it.  If  they  have  a  '•  true  heart," 
and  faith  in  the  god,  they  are  never  injured.  It  is 
performed  by  some  in  fulfillment  of  a  vow  made  in 
times  of  danger  or  necessity.  One  of  the  votaries 
last  year  fell  down  in  the  midst  of  the  pile,  and  was 
severely  burned.  Our  budget  of  Chinese  tracts  was 
disposed  of  as  speedil)^  as  they  could  be  handed  out. 
Indeed,  it  was  necessary  to  check  their  violence  in 
snatching  them  away. 

26th. — Mr.  Medhurst  has  generally  a  number  of 
schools,  both  Malay  and  Chinese,  in  which  Christian 
books  are  introduced,  and  over  which  himself  and 
Mr.  Young  maintain  a  strict  superintendence.  The 
parents  are  willing  that  he   should  have  the  direction 


JAVAv  iBf 

of  the  school,  on  condition  that  he  pay  a  proportion 
of  the  teacher's  wages.  I  have  visited  them  a  number 
of  times,  and  was  favorably  impressed  with  the  course 
pursued,  in  rendering  intelligible  to  their  minds  th6 
truths  of  Christianity,  and  the  absurdity  of  Paganism. 
It  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  effectual  means  which 
could  be  adopted,  of  establishing  the  one  system  upon 
the  ruins  of  the  othet. 

In  striking  contrast  with  these,  and  indeed,  with 
all  schools  conducted  on  the  ordinary. principles  of 
teaching  at  home,  are  the  attempts  of  the  native 
school-masters,  to  instruct  their  pupils. 

This  morning  we  walked  a  short  distance  in  the 
country^  to  distribute  tracts  in  the  adjacent  campongs, 
and  among  the  travelers  who  are  constantly  passing  to 
and  from  the  town.  The  noise  of  school-boys  attract- 
ed our  attention,  and  upon  coming  to  the  shed  in 
which  they  were  assembled,  we  found  fifteen  of  the 
native  children  conning  the  Arabic  Koran  in  a  loud 
sing-song  toncv  Not  seeing  the  teacher,  we  inquired 
for  him,  and  found  that  he  was  employed  in  cultiva- 
ting his  land,  some  distance  from  them,  while  they 
amused  themselves  in  this  unprofitable  exercise.  The 
teacher  confessed  that  he  did  not  understand  what 
was  contained  in  the  book,  and  that  he  was  persuaded 
of  the  unprofitableness  of  such  instructions  as  he 
could  give ;  but  he  said  the  importunity  of  the  pa* 
rents  imposed  a  necessity  upon  him. 

To  read  the  Koran  in  a  certain  tone  of  vOicCj 
without  comprehending  a  word  of  its  meaning,  is  the 
object,  if  not  the  achme,  of  education,  among  the  in* 
dolent  Malays.     The  advantage  is^  that  they  become 

17 


188  JATA. 

acquainted  with  the  Arabic  character,  which  is  eifii- 
ployed  in  writing  their  own  language,  and  which  as- 
sists them  to  understand  Christian  books  in  the  ver- 
nacular. They  are  generally  willing  to  hear  any  con- 
versation on  religion,  and  seldom  refuse  a  tract,  espe- 
cially when  its  contents  are  previously  made  the  sub- 
ject of  remark. 

May  6th,  (Friday.) — On  Wednesday  morning,  six 
o'clock,  we  left  this  place  in  a  government  vehicle, 
and  reached  Bitenzorg,  the  residence  of  the  governor, 
in  about  four  hours.  The  distance  is  thirty-nine 
miles.  The  governor,  it  is  said,  performs  the  journey 
in  two  hours  and  a  half,  or  three  hours,  and  men  of 
less  distinction  and  fewer  advantages,  generally  in 
four.  Our  conveyance  was  exceedingly  shabby,  and 
the  horses  puny  and  way-worn.  Although  apprehen- 
sive that  the  old  vehicle  might  give  way,  nothing  oc- 
curred to  stop  our  progress,  but  the  escape  of  one  of 
the  poneys,  which,  by  some  unaccountable  means, 
cleared  himself  from  the  harness,  and  took  another 
direction. 

The  palace,  as  the  residence  of  the  governor  is 
called,  is  rather  a  splendid  edifice,  built  in  the  form  of 
a  crescent,  though  with  a  glaring  architectural  blun- 
der. It  has  one  window  more  on  one  side,  than  the 
other,  which,  when  standing  in  front  of  the  door, 
makes  the  building  appear  as  though  it  had  a  deficien- 
cy in  the  curve.  It  has  a  park  in  front,  stocked  with 
deer,  and  an  extensive  garden  in  the  rear,  laid  out 
and  ornamented  in  a  handsome  style.  The  plot  is 
undulating,  the  walks  are  broad  and  well  graveled, 
the  trees  and  shrubbery  rare  and  beautiful,   and  the 


ficene  is  adorned  with  lakes,  bridges,  a  small  island, 
jet  d'eau,  and  a  cascade.  It  is  kept  at  an  expense  to 
government  of  seven  thousand  rupees  a  month. 

Between  Bitenzorg  and  the  neighboring  mountains, 
which  lift  their  lofty  heads  ten  or  eleven  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  the  face  of  the  country  is  much  more 
diversified  and  beautiful  than  the  low  unvarying  levd 
©f  Batavia.  We  were  in  hopes  of  having  a  clear 
view  of  the  crater,  the  smoke  from  which  is  distinct- 
ly seen  from  Batavia ;  but  an  intervening  peak  com- 
pletely hid  it  from  our  sight  before  we  reached  Biten- 
zorg. Among  the  objects  of  curiosity  in  tfeis  place, 
is  an  old  tablet,  the  characters  of  which,  as  far  as  the 
knowledge  of  numerous  visitors  go,  are  entirely  dis- 
tinct from  any  thing  to  be  foiind  in  present  use,  or  in 
antiquarian  research. 

Our  time  was  spent  in  visiting  the  Chinese  and  na- 
tive villages,  and  distributing  tracts.  The  Chinese 
camp,  as  their  settlements  are  denominated,  is  exten- 
sive and  populous.  They  listened  attentively  to  the 
instructions  of  Mr.  Medhurst,  and  received  the  book$ 
with  pleasure. 

In  our  visits  among  the  Javanese,  we  called  upon 
the  ex-royal  family,  who  still  exercise  the  highest 
functions  entrusted  by  government  to  the  natives. 
The  establishment  is  very  commodious,  and  though 
without  splendor,  much  superior  to  any  of  their 
buildings  I  have  yet  ^een.  The  present  governor  is 
fifty-seven  years  of  age,  and  his  father,  who  in  his 
old  age  has  become  a  Mahommedan  priest,  eighty- 
one.  There  are  five  generations  of  them  now  living, 
#p.d  the  old  man  numbers  no  less  than  two  hundred 


190  JAVA. 

and  fifty  descendants  upon  earth.  Oar  books  were 
received  at  the  palace  with  politeness^  and  a  number 
of  them  distributed  in  the  villag-es. 

The  principal  Chinaman  in  authority  at  Bitenzorg, 
returned  to  Batavia  with  us.  Though  without  any 
apparent  regard  for  Christianity,  he  appears  so  well 
persuaded  of  the  absurdity  and  evil  consequences  of 
many  of  the  established  snperstitionSj  that  he  has  been 
opposing  them,  by  all  the  weight  of  his  authority,  and 
with  considerable  success.  A  small  temple,  which 
they  venerated  for  its  mystic  influence,  has  been  remo- 
ved, and  houses  have  been  erected  on  its  site.  The 
custom  of  calling  in,  those  to  prescribe  for  the  sick^ 
whom  they  suppose  capable  of  being  possessed  at  op- 
tion, and  to  whose  absurd  vagaries  they  attach  the 
highest  virtue,  has  been  abolished.  The  influence  of 
the  priests  has  been  attacked  and  diminished,  and 
other  measures  are  contemplated,  which  will  tend, 
though  unintentionally  on  his  part,  to  prepare  the  way 
for  a  pnrer  and  less  cumbrous  faith.  Mr.  M.  spent 
much  of  the  time  in  teaching  the  nature  and  enfor- 
cing the  reasonableness  of  the  Christian  religion  upon 
the  mind  of  our  fellow  traveler.  We  can  go  to  no 
place,  where  there  is  not  an  extensive  field  of  useful- 
ness, and  all  prepared  to  the  laborer's  hand. 

These  facts,  recorded  at  the  time,  show  the  exten- 
sive sphere  for  missionary  exertion  in  Java.  At  the 
same  time,  they  give  but  a  very  partial  view  of  the 
various  sicenes  of  labor  and  interest,  which  might  have 
been  daily  visited,  had  our  number  borne  some  tri- 
fling proportion  to  our  opportunities  of  usefulness. 
The  towns,  the  roads,  the  native  schools,   and  above 


JAVA.  191 

*Tl,tlie  passers  or  bazaars,  (as  they  are  termed  in  India,) 
which  are  held  in  every  part  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, furnish  scope  for  the  zeal  of  a  large  number  of 
missionaries. 

These  labors,  with  the  regular  services  in  English  and 
Malay — the  visitation  of  the  Chinese — superintend- 
ence of  schools — the  never  ending  study  of  langua- 
ges and  preparation  of  books ;  besides  all  the  various 
charitable  objects  in  which  the  missionary  must  be 
the  chief  agent,  and  his  own  duties  of  every  day's  re- 
currence— constitute  the  immense  burden  which  is 
made  to  rest  with  its  chief  weight  upon  the  shoulders 
of  one  man.  Soon  may  this  neglected  island  receive 
the  attention  it  claims  of  the  Christian  world. 

The  three  large  settlements,  Batavia,  Samarang, 
and  Soerabaya,  ought  to  be  immediately  occupied, 
and  made  the  head  quarters  of  missionary  operation. 
From  these  points  *'  the  light  of  life"  might  radiate, 
until  the  rays  met  in  every  patt  of  this  dark  domain. 

The  writer  is  obliged  to  add,  with  pain,  that  since 
the  above  was  written,  the  prospect  of  unrestrained 
effort  has  assumed  a  less  flattering  aspect  than  when 
he  resided  at  Batavia.  Mr.  Bruckner,  who  was  ab- 
sent at  the  time  from  the  island,  for  the  purpose  of 
printing  some  works  in  the  Javanese  language,  and 
who  returned  soon  afterwards,  was  arrested  by  the 
authorities,  in  the  midst  of  a  most  interesting  series 
of  labors.  The  eager  natives  were  thronging  his 
house  to  receive  the  tracts  he  brought  with  him,  when 
the  government  officers  interfered,  took  away  the 
books,  and  placed  a  veto  upon  their  future  distri- 
bution. 

IT* 


192  JAVA. 

The  following  fact  is  extracted  from  the  fifth  num- 
ber of  the  first  volume  of  the  Chinese  Repository — a 
work  deserving  the  perusal  of  all  who  take  an  inter- 
est in  the  history,  literature,  religion,  present  condi- 
tion, and  prospects  of  China  and  the  neighboring 
kingdoms  and  islands  : 

"  The  whole  population  of  a  small  village,  wishing 
to  become  Christians,  and  to  be  instructed  in  the  truths 
of  the  gospel,  requested  the  resident  at  Soerabaya  to 
send  them  a  teacher  with  Bibles )  which  he  refused^ 
declaring  that  he  would  not  allow  them  to  become 
Christians,  as  they  were  quite  happy  enough  without 
Christianity ;  and  further,  that  Christian  tracts,  in  the 
Javanese  language,  have  been  confiscated,  and  the 
funds  of  the  Dutch  Bible  Society  occasionally  applied 
to  purposes  merely  literary." 

These  facts  certainly  cannot  have  been  rightly  rep- 
resented to  the  King  of  Holland,  or  we  have  reason 
to  believe  the  evils  would  soon  be  corrected.  The 
bugbear  of  insurrection^  by  which  those  who  oppose 
missions  profess  to  be  frightened  themselves,  and  at- 
tempt to  scare  others,  cannot  alarm  one  who  knows 
the  tendency  of  Christian  principles.  We  sincerely 
hope  that  the  subject  will  be  investigated  by  the  au- 
thorities in  the  mother  country,  and  that  the  present 
and  eternal  happiness  of  so  many  millions  of  souls, 
will  not  be  allowed  to  yield  to  the  cruel  and  unwise 
policy  of  a  few  local  ofiicers.  If  the  same  liberty 
which  is  enjoyed  throughout  every  part  of  British 
India,  were  allowed  the  missionaries  in  this  and  the 
neighboring  islands,  rebellions  would  he  no  more  f re- 


JAVA.  193 

quent  than  in  Hmdosta?i,  and  the  greatest  advantage 
would  soon  be  realized  by  all  parties. 

Since  the  above  was  published  in  the  first  edition 
of  this  book,  we  have  seen  an  extract  of  a  letter  from 
the  King  of  Holland,  to  the  Bible  Society  in  Batavia, 
in  which  his  majesty  expresses  his  pleasure  in  hearing 
that  the  Scriptures  had  been  translated  into  the  Javan- 
ese tongue.  The  inference  of  course  is,  that  the  King 
is  favorable  to  the  distribution  of  the  Bible  among  the 
millions  of  his  deluded  subjects  in  this  island.  We 
sincerely  hope  that  measures  will  soon  be  taken  to 
have  this  beautiful  and  populous  region,  brought  un- 
der the  benign  influence  of  Christianity. 


CHAPTER     IX. 


PASSAGE    FROM    JAVA    TO    SINGAPORE. 

On  Saturday  evening,  June  'Ith,  embarked  in  the 
English  ship  Bencoolen,  Captain  Roberts,  for  Singa- 
pore. The  next  morning,  before  daybreak,  we  weigh- 
ed anchor,  and  avaihng  ourselves  of  the  land  breeze, 
stood  to  sea.  After  sailing  gently  a  day  or  two,  and 
passing  a  few  unimportant  islands,  we  entered  the 
straits  of  Banca,  between  the  island  of  that  name  and 
Sumatra.  The  tin  mines  on  Banca,  in  the  possession 
of  the  Dutch,  are  said  to  yield  a  large  quantity  of  good 
metal. 

The  immense  island  of  Sumatra,  extending  about 
one  thousand  miles  in  length,  and  varying  from  one 
to  two  hundred  in  breadth,  lay  before  us  like  a  motion- 
less sea.  The  maratime  parts  on  both  sides  are  low 
and  marshy,  though  it  is  intersected  longitudinally  by 
chains  of  unequal  mountains,  some  of  them  nearly  as 
high  as  the  loftiest  summit  of  the  Alps.  AVe  passed 
the  mouths  of  several  large  rivers,  the  currents  from 
which  appeared  to  reach  the  opposite  side  of  the  strait. 

Sumatra  is  divided  into  a  number  of  distinct,  in- 
dependent kingdoms  :  the  most  important  of  which, 


196  SUMATRA. 

are  known  by  the  names  of  Meiiangkahoo  Balla  and 
BaUumary  or  Kampang. 

In  former  times,  Menangkaboo  held  the  empire  of 
the  whole  island,  and  at  the  present  day  its  Sultan  com- 
bines the  influence  of  a  sovereign  prince  with  that  of  a 
moslem  pontiff.  The  Dutch,  before  their  recent  ex- 
pulsion and  massacre,  succeeded  in  conquering  this 
strong  hold  of  the  country,  and  establishing  them- 
selves, as  they  thought,  in  perpetual  security.  Had 
they  retained  their  dearly  bought  possession,  they 
could,  in  all  probability,  have  commanded  the  resour- 
ces of  the  island.  A  carriage  road  connects  this  cen- 
tral spot  with  Padang,  about  half  a  day's  journey  to 
the  west,  and  a  large  river  opens  a  free  communication 
between  it  and  the  east,  through  which  its  products 
are  transported  to  Singapore.  The  inhabitants  of 
this  ancient  kingdom  were  early  converted  to  Islam- 
ism.  Pagarooyoong,  its  capital,  is  the  chief  resort  of 
pilgrims  of  that  religion,  and  was  formerly  the  great 
seat  of  literature  in  the  island.  The  natives  of  Me- 
nangkaboo are  in  advance  of  all  their  neighbors,  in 
letters  and  the  arts.  They  have  borrowed  the  Ara- 
bic character,  and  "  their  whole  literature  consists  in 
transcripts  from  the  Koran,  and  in  bold  historic  tales."' 
They  have  long  been  famed  for  the  manufacture  of 
arms,  and  for  their  delicate  workmanship  in  gold. 

In  the  country  of  Balla,  which  includes  the  north- 
ern division  of  the  island,  is  the  famous  kingdom  of 
Acheen,  with  which  foreigners  are  well  acquainted. 
It  carries  on  a  considerable  trade  with  parts  of  India- 
its  Sultan  being  the  principal  merchant  of  the  place. 
The  inhabitants  are  more  muscular,   industrious  and 


StJMATRA.  197' 

sagacionsj  than  the  other  natives  of  the  island ;  they 
profess  the  faith  of  Mohammed,  and  are  said  by  travel 
ers  to  exemplify  some  of  its  sanguinary  principles. 
Still  they  are  under  the  iron  sway  of  a  hereditary  des- 
potism, and  subject  to  laws  as  rigorous  as  they  are 
partial  in  their  penal  inflictions.  The  most  severe 
punishments  fall  generally  upon  the  lowest  classes  of 
society. 

The  interior  of  this  general  division  of  the  island, 
is  the  beautiful  country  of  the  Battahs^  part  of  which 
stretches  over  a  spacious  campaign  between  two 
ridges  of  mountains,  and  is  adorned  with  an  extensive 
lake.  According  to  Sir  Stamford  Raffles,  who  visited 
their  country,  "  the  Battahs  are  an  extensive  and  pop- 
ulous nation  of  Sumatra,  occupying  the  whole  of 
that  part  of  the  island  lying  between  Acheen  and 
Menangkaboo,  reaching  to  both  the  shores.  The 
coast  is  but  thinly  inhabited  ;  but  in  the  interior,  the 
people  are  sjiid  to  be  as  thick  as  the  leaves  of  the  fo- 
rest ;  perhaps  the  whole  nation  may  amount  to  be- 
tween one  and  two  millions  of  souls.  They  have  a 
regular  government,  deliberative  assemblies,  and  are 
great  orators.  Nearly  the  whole  of  them  write,  and 
they  possess  a  written  character  peculiar  to  themselves. 
In  their  language  and  terms,  as  well  as  in  some  of 
their  laws  and  usages,  the  influence  of  Hindooisra 
may  be  traced ;  but  they  have  also  a  religion  peculiar 
to  themselves.  They  acknowledge  the  one  and  only 
great  God,  and  they  have  a  trinity  of  great  Gods,  sup- 
posed to  have  been  created  by  him." 

Other  writers  declare  that  they  believe  in  two  dei- 
ties of  totally  o])posite  character,    and  like  the   gQnt- 


198  Sumatra: 

Tality  of  heathen  tribes,   they  are  exceedingly  super 
stitious  in  matters  of  sorcery. 

Tappanooly  and  Natal  are  Dutch  settlements,  situ- 
ated in  the  very  heart  of  the  Battah  country.  Sir 
Stamford  visited  the  former^  '•'  with  the  determination 
to  satisfy  his  mind  respecting  the  reports  of  tlieir 
cannibalism.  Accordingly,  he  caused  the  most  intel^ 
ligent  chiefs  of  that  place  to  be  assembled,  and  in  the 
presence  of  witnesses^  obtained  the  following  informa- 
tion : — It  is  the  universal  and  standing  law  of  the  Bat- 
tabs,  that  death  by  eating  shall  be  inflicted  in  the  fol- 
lowing cases.  1st.  For  adultery.  2d.  For  midnight 
robbery.  3d.  In  wars  of  importance^ — that  is  to  sayj 
in  one  district  against  another — the  prisoners  are  sac- 
rificed. 4th.  For  intermarrying  in  the  same  tribcj 
which  is  forbidden  from  the  circumstance  of  their 
having  ancestors  in  common,  and  5th.  For  a  treach- 
erous attack  on  a  honse,  village  or  person." 

It  is  calculated,  the  same  author  affirms,  that  not 
less  than  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  Battahs  are  annu- 
ally eaten,  in  times  of  peace.  Formerly  it  was  usual 
to  eat  their  parents,  when  too  old  for  work  ;  this  prac- 
tice, however,  has  been  abandoned.  When  the  par- 
ty is  a  prisoner  taken  in  war,  he  is  eaten  immediately, 
and  on  the  spot ;  and  whether  dead  or  alive,  it  alters 
not  the  case. 

-  The  Battahs  are  described  as  fairer  and  smaller 
than  the  Malays — fond  of  dress-,  and  more  partial  to 
horse  flesh  than  to  any  other  kind  of  animal  food. 
Polygamy  is  common.  The  women  are  employed  as 
slaves,  while  the  men  pass  the  time  in  war,  indolence, 
gambling,  and  childish  sports.     Such  is  their  estimate 


SUMATRA.  199 

of  the  difference  between  the  sexes,  that  they  visit  the 
same  offense  with  a  much  more  severe  punishment 
upon  the  men,  than  upon  their  more  ignorant  and  less 
culpable  wives.  As  far  as  can  be  gathered  from  nu* 
merous  sources,  we  conclude  that  cannibalism  is  not 
practiced  so  much  from  relish  as  from  revenge,  or  for 
the  purpose  of  public  justice.  And  yet  it  is  confident- 
ly and  credibly  affirmed,  that  "  such  are  the  brutal 
and  depraved  habits  of  a  few,  that  they  are  unable, 
from  custom,  to  relish  any  other  kind  of  food."* 

In  Ballum-ary  or  Kampang,  the  third  division  men- 
tioned, are  the  kingdoms  of  Palembang  and  Lampong. 
The  former  comprehends  the  south-eastern  portion  of 
Sumatra,  and  the  latter  extends  to  its  southern  extre- 
mity. Immense  and  impenetrable  forests  cover  a 
large  region  of  this  southern  division  of  the  island — 
the  inhabitants  are  generally  poor,  and  their  customs 
like  those  of  their  neighbors.  Palembang,  where  the 
Dutch  had  a  factory,  is  represented  as  a  large  city, 
inhabited  by  emigrants  from  China,  Siam,  and  Java, 
as  well  as  by  the  natives  of  the  country. 

Besides  these  kingdoms,  there  are  many  independ- 
ent states,  situated  on  the  large  rivers,  answering  in 
sreneral  features  to  those  described. 

What  an  immense  sphere  does  this  island  present 
for  missionary  exertion !  The  Dutch  and  English 
have  alternatety  held  the  foreign  stations  of  the  island^ 
and  the  latter  have  sent  a  few  missionaries  to  Bencoo- 
len  and  Padang,  but  the  great  work  of  converting  its 
millions  to  Christ  was  neither  commenced  nor  prose- 


*  Chinese  Repository,  vol.  3,  no.  7. 
18 


tilted  with  sufficient  energy.  At  present  there  is  not 
a  missionary  on  the  island.  The  writer  became  ac- 
quainted Avith  a  pious  gentleman,  who  resided  at  Pa- 
dang,  and  who  promised  to  furnish  such  a  statement 
of  the  country  and  its  inhabitants,  as  would  interest 
the  Christian  community,  and  supply  hints  for  their 
benevolent  efforts.  Since  that,  the  Dutch  have  been 
forcibly  driven  from  their  settlements— many  of  them 
were  massacred  by  the  enraged  natives,  and  whether 
the  person  referred  to,  and  a  companion  of  congenial 
sentiments,  escaped,  is  uncertain,  as  no  intelligence 
has  been  received  from  them  since  the  dreadful  ca- 
tastrophe. 

Some  of  the  islands  near  the  west  coast  of  Suma^ 
tra  are  described  as  fertile  and  populous.  Pulo  Nyas 
is  inhabited  by  an  interesting  race  of  men,  who  are 
remarkably  ingenious,  and  carry  on  an  extensive  traf- 
fic." From  all  accounts,  the  place  is  exceedingly  fa- 
vorable for  missionary  labor,  and  We  know  of  no  ob- 
stacles to  its  immediate  occupancy.* 

Along  the  whole  line  of  this  western  coast  of  Su- 
matra, aiid  among  the  adjacent  islands,  the  pious  mer- 
chant has  it  in  his  power  to  exert  the  greatest  influ- 
ence. It  is  a  favorite  resort  for  trading  vessels  from 
America  and  England,  and  according  to  the  testimo- 
ny of  one  who  has  been  engaged  in  the  traffic,  the 
most  dishonorable  and  dishonest  means  are  often  em- 
ployed in  defrauding  the  natives.  Should  houses  of 
commerce,   superintended  by  pious   agents,  be   estab- 

♦  We  are  happy  to  learn  that  the  American  Board  for  Foreign  Mis- 
sions have  resolved  on  sending  missionaries  to  this  island,  as  soon  as 
they  can  oe  obtained^ 


»UMJlTRA.  ^1 

irelied  ill  the  most  populous  and  advantageous  posi- 
tions :  and  should  ships  in  their  visits  to  other  places 
of  trade,  carry  with  them  those  who  are  capable  of 
instructing  the  natives,  immense  good  would  infalli- 
bly accrue  to  the  heathen. 

On  our  way  to  Singapore,  we  passed  by  a  number 
of  islands,  which  are  occupied  by  pirates,  who  infest 
the  adjacent  seas,  and  watch  for  such  vessels  as  they 
suppose  may  be  safely  and  successfully  attacked. 
Three  masts  generally  afford  security,  although  even 
ships  have  been  assailed,  and  those  of  the  crews  who 
have  remained  to  tell  the  tale,  escaped  with  difficulty. 
We  saw  a  number  of  proas  in  the  straits  of  Banca, 
but  our  appearance  was  too  formidable  to  invite  an  en- 
counter, or  they  too  peaceful  to  attack  us. 

The  Sabbath  v/as  a  -day  of  delightful  serenity,  and 
the  enjoyment  of  its  hallowed  privileges  added  not  a 
little  to  its  tranquilizing  features.  The  willingness 
with  which  the  tracts  were  received  and  read  by  pas- 
sengers and  crew,  afforded  a  fresh  proof  of  the  impor- 
tance of  always  being  furnished  with  a  supply  of  these 
powerful  though  unobtrusive  monitors. 

On  Monday  morning,  weighed  anchor  early,  hav- 
ing been  becalmed  the  previous  night,  and  stood 
through  the  straits  lying  between  Pulo  Battam  and 
the  Great  Dryon.  It  is  questionable  whether  any 
ships  have  preceded  us  since  1803.  It  proved  to  be 
a  safe,  and  in  many  respects,  an  advantageous  passage. 
The  land  on  both  sides  is  uniform,  and  the  scenery 
perfectly  wild  and  rather  interesting.  I  do  not  recol- 
ieet  ever  to  have  sailed  so  great  a  distance  Bmox^g 
such  ^  flunjber  of  scattered  islands^ 


202  SINGAPORE. 

On  Tuesday  morning,  June  14th,  the  ship  came  fa 
anchor  in  Singapore  roads.  The  harbor  of  Singa- 
pore is  very  extensive.  It  is  surrounded  by  numer- 
ous islands,  stretching  far  in  the  distance,  and  is  ca- 
pable of  affording  safe  anchorage  to  any  number  of 
shipping. 

There  is  nothing  very  striking  in  the  aspect  of  the 
place.  The  site  of  the  business  part  of  the  town  is 
either  a  depressed  hill  or  a  redeemed  jungle.  Most  of 
the  private  residences  are  situated  upon  a  plain,  of 
considerable  extent,  while  a  few  mansions  crowning 
the  adjacent  hills,  relieve  the  dull  uniformity  which 
a  level  situation  gives  to  so  many  eastern  towns.  Be- 
ing a  free  port  for  all  but  Americans,  many  European 
ships  and  native  craft  are  generally  lying  in  the 
harbor. 

On  my  arrival,  I  found  the  missionaries  well,  and 
Mr.  Tomlin  on  the  eve  of  embarking  for  Siam.  Wc 
were  all  struck  with  the  concurrence  of  events,  and 
could  not  but  adore  the  goodness  of  the  Lord  in  the 
peculiarity  of  the  providence.  Mr.  T,  had  been  wait- 
ing a  long  time  for  an  opportunity,  and  this  very  vessel 
had  been  detained  contrary  to  expectations,  beyond  the 
appointed  period  of  sailing.  The  very  day  after  my 
arrival  she  obtained  her  port  clearance,  but  through  the 
compliance  of  the  captain,  the  time  of  sailing  was 
deferred  until  Friday  morning.  An  opportunity  was 
thus  presented  to  meet  all  those  engagements  which 
appeared  important,  before  leaving  Singapore. 

It  was  cheering  to  find  from  the  missionaries,  that 
the  same  disposition  to  receive  Christian  books  which 
was  manifested  by  the  Malays   at  Batavia,  prevailed 


PASSAGE    TO    SIAM.  203 

fils©  at  this  and  some  of  the  neighboring  stations. 
The  change  is  of  a  very  recent  date,  and  the  hearts 
and  hands  of  the  missionaries  are  strengthened  in 
their  work. 

On  Friday,  June  17th,  we  embarked  in  an  Arab 
vessel,  with  a  European  commander,  for  Siam.  Mr. 
Tomlin,  Mr.  Daniell,  a  pious  officer  in  the  Indian  ar- 
my, and  myself,  were  obliged  to  occupy  the  same  half 
of  the  poop-cabin.  The  opposite  side  contained  two 
of  the  supercargo's  wives,  who  were  never  seen  by 
any  but  the  husband  and  servants.  The  crew  con- 
sisted of  six  and  forty  men,  the  principal  part  of  whom 
were  Arabs,  and  of  course,  professors  of  Islamism. 
There  was  something  in  their  expressive  features  and 
muscular  forms,  which  completely  distinguished  them 
from  the  Bengalese  and  Malays.  The  prominent 
nose,  penetrating  eye,  curling  locks,  and  heavy  beard, 
characterized  the  majority.  Their  conduct,  too,  was 
in  striking  opposition  to  any  thing  I  had  ever  witness- 
ed in  any  other  vessel.  Five  times  a  day  they  bent 
the  knee,  and  bowed  the  head,  in  social  worship.  The 
principal  services  are  performed  at  day-dawn,  and 
sun-set. 

At  these  seasons,  the  Muezziii  ascended  the  quar- 
ter-deck— the  only  place  on  ship  board,  which  would 
answer  the  purpose  of  a  minaret,  and  stopping  his  ears 
with  his  fingers,  to  exclude  all  earthly  sounds,  pro- 
claimed in  the  most  serious  manner,  the  appointed 
hour  for  their  devotions.  He  was  soon  joined  by  the 
majority,  who  with  their  faces  toward  the  west^  the 
direction  of  the  Moslem's  kiblah  from  our  present  po- 
jitioii,  spent  aboul  half  an  hour  in  their  fruitless  task. 
18* 


S04  PASSAGE    TO    SIAM. 

They  heed  not  the  presence  of  man- — never  miss  the 
hour  of  prayer,  and  express  an  earnestness  which  tes- 
tifies that  they  have  not  the  most  remote  suspicion  of 
their  dreadful  delusion.  The  mate  generally  leads 
the  devotions,  standing  a  short  distance  in  advance  of 
the  rest.  The  countenances  of  some  of  them  were 
deathfully  solemn,  and  their  voices,  especially  when 
mingled  in  general  response,  of  a  deep  sepulchral  tone. 

In  their  intercourse  with  each  other,  they  evince  a 
cheerfulness  and  apparent  affection,  which  is  seldom 
found  among  European  sailors.  It  is  true,  there  is 
much  less  distinction  between  the  officers  and  com- 
mon sailors,  and  much  more  liberty  taken  by  the  lat- 
ter, than  in  the  generality  of  other  vessels  ;  but  eve- 
ry object  of  subordination  is  gained,  and  though  rath- 
er sportful,  the  command  is  obeyed  with  prompt  activi- 
ty. Deluded  men  !  they  express  a  belief  that  all 
Christians  are  to  be  converted  to  their  faith,  and  that, 
within  two  centuries  from  the  present.  I  could  al- 
most wish  for  the  gift  of  tongues,  to  be  instrumental 
of  teaching  them  their  error,  and  pointing  them  to  the 
only  Savior,  whose  spreading  kingdom  will  blot  the 
very  name  of  their  deceiver  from  under  heaven, 
doubtless  much  v/ithin  the  specified  period.  Some,  to 
whom  Arabic  Bibles  were  offered,  received  them  with 
pleasure,  and  devoted  much  time  to  their  examination. 
They  soon  discovered  the  inconsistency  between  the 
practice  of  nominal  Christians,  and  the  precepts  of 
the  Savior. 

Our  room  was  consecrated  to  the  worship  of  the 
true  God,  and  the  sacrifice  of  morning  and  evening 
praise  was  there  offered.     The  usual  services  of  the 


PASSAGE    TO    SIAM.  205 

Sabbath  were  also  maintained.  On  all  these  occa- 
sions, the  captain,  the  only  European  on  board,  at- 
tended. 

For  probably  half  our  passage,  we  had  the  coast  of 
the  Malayan  peninsula,  and  the  neighboring  islands,  in 
view.  The  former  is  a  range  of  abrupt,  irregular 
hills,  flanked  in  many  places  by  peaks  of  the  same 
character,  though  of  different  altitudes,  and  present- 
ing an  appearance  which  might  be  easily  mistaken  by 
the  distant  observer  for  towers,  pagodas,  minarets,  for- 
tifications, and  castles.  On  the  way  we  were  fre- 
quently struck  with  the  sun-set  splendors  of  the  heav- 
ens, and  led  to  admire  the  glories  of  that  Being,  of 
whom  his  most  lovely  works  are  but  the  faintest  re- 
flection. 

On  Thursday,  30th  June,  1831,  we  arrived  at  the 
bar,  ofl'the  mouth  of  the  Meinam,  and  anchored.  The 
coast  of  Siam  is  so  low,  that  at  the  distance  of 
the  horizon  at  sea,  you  can  distinguish  it  only  by  a 
roughness  without  the  usual  undulation.  English 
vessels  are  obliged  by  treaty  with  that  government,  to 
wait  here  for  a  pilot.  It  is  said  to  be  impossible  for 
large  ships  to  cross  the  bar,  except  at  the  highest  tides, 
the  water  seldom  exceeding  eighteen  feet,  and  rising 
at  times  not  above  twelve  or  fourteen.  Understand- 
ing that  the  pilot  would  not  be  on  board  for  a  week, 
we  left  the  ship  on  Saturday,  in  the  jolly  boat,  for 
Bankok.  About  five  o'clock,  we  reached  Paknam,  a 
small  village  some  three  or  four  miles  from  the  shore 
of  the  sea. 

The  Siamese  have   attempted  to  render  the  river 
impassable  to  foreign  invaders.     A  barrier  of  large 


206  SI  AM. 

piles,  many  yards  in  depth,  runs  from  one  bank  to  the 
other,  with  the  exception  of  a  narrow  passage-way 
for  vessels  ;  each  shore  is  lined  with  a  battery  ;  and 
a  large  fortification  or  castle  has  been  erected  in  the 
stream,  to  command  the  approach,  as  well  as  to  ob- 
struct the  passage  of  the  place.  The  appearance  of 
this  castle,  with  a  small  spiral  pagoda  or  monument, 
at  a  short  distance,  is  imposing  and  beautiful. 

It  was  our  intention  to  pass  Paknam,  without 
stopping  ;  but  the  king's  officers  hailed  us,  and  the 
governor  detained  the  captain  about  an  hour.  The 
old  gentleman  made  the  best  of  the  time  in  asking 
such  questions,  and  offering  such  remarks,  as  were 
dictated  by  his  curiosity,  and  his  still  more  insatiable 
cupidity.  During  this  interview,  the  passengers,  who 
remained  in  the  boat,  afforded  considerable  amuse- 
ment to  the  natives,  by  partaking  of  a  cold  repast. 
We  prevailed  upon  them  to  taste  the  biscuit  and  beer, 
on  which  we  were  feasting,  and  received,  in  return, 
shell-fish  and  segars,  made  of  a  dried  leaf,  rolled  up, 
and  inclosing  a  little  cut  tobacco.  Many  of  the  men 
were  muscular,  and  symmetrical  in  form — probably 
selected  for  the  service  in  which  they  are  engaged. 

The  Siamese  shave  the  head,  except  on  the  crown, 
where  they  allow  the  hair  to  grow  sufficiently  long  to 
give  it  the  uprightness  and  apparent  rigidity  of  bris- 
tles. Their  dress  is  scanty  ;  the  limbs  and  upper 
part  of  the  body  being  exposed.  There  is  no  differ- 
ence in  this  respect,  from  the  king  to  his  meanest  sub- 
ject. The  women  are  almost  as  denuded  as  the  men. 
It  is  a  universal  custom,  with  both  sexes,  to  chew  the 
betel  and  cere,  and  among  the  men,  from  early  youth 


SIAM.  207 

to  the  most  decrepid  age,  there  is  scarcely  an  excep- 
tion to  the  habit  of  smoking.  Between  the  two,  the 
jaws  are  seldom  allowed  to  be  at  rest. 

From  Paknam  to  Bankok,  the  distance  is  probably 
twenty-five  or  thirty  miles.  We  left  the  former  place 
about  six  in  the  evening,  and  arrived  at  half-past 
twelve.  On  the  way,  we  were  entertained  by  many 
objects  of  interest  and  novelty. 

The  Meinam  is  a  noble  river — probably  half  a  mile 
in  average  width,  and  sufficiently  deep  to  admit  to 
Bankok,  the  largest  ships  which  can  pass  the  bar. 
Its  banks  are  low,  and  covered  with  jungle.  As  we 
proceeded,  the  lights  on  the  shore  were  numerous  in 
many  places,  and  we  were  convinced  from  their  re- 
flection in  the  river,  that  the  houses  were  built  upon 
piles  or  rafts.  In  one  or  two  places  our  ears  were  sa- 
luted with  music,  which  came  over  the  water,  at  this 
late  and  silent  hour,  with  a  soothing  melody.  The 
instruments  were  chiefly  on  the  percussion  principle, 
and  the  soft  and  delicate  harmony  of  their  tones,  form- 
ed a  perfect  contrast  to  the  harsh  strains  with  which 
we  had  been  tortured  in  China.  But  the  objects  of 
our  greatest  admiration,  were  the  swarms  of  fire-flies 
on  each  shore,  and  passing  from  one  side  of  the  river 
to  the  other.  Though  not  to  be  compared  in  size  or 
brilliancy  to  the  famed  lantern-fly,  (fulgora  laternaria,) 
of  South  America,  described  by  Madame  Merian  ;   still 

"  Innumerous  tribes 
From  the  wood-cover  swarmed,  and  darkness  made 
Their  beauties  visible  :  one  while  they  streamed 
A  bright  blue  radiance  upon  flowers  that  closed 
Their  gorgeous  colors  from  the  eye  of  day  j 


209  SIAM. 


Now  motionless  and  dark,  eluded  search, 
Self-shrouded,  and  anon  starring  the  sky, 
Rose  like  a  shower  of  fire."* 


Thousands  of  these  insects  would  light  together 
on  one  tree,  and  give  it  a  most  beautiful  and  vivid  il- 
lumination. There  appeared  to  be  a  complete  uni- 
formity in  the  motions  of  them  all, — so  that  the  glare 
would  break  forth  and  close  in,  as  though  they  inha- 
led a  common  breath,  or  emitted  their  light  by  some 
other  simultaneous  impulse.  It  required  no  stretch  of 
fancy  to  imagine  ourselves  in  those  fairy  regions  of 
which  we  had  heard  in  childhood,  and  especially  as 
we  were  inclined  to  indulge  in  transient  slumbers,  and 
would  frequently  awake  from  forgetfulness  to  the  nov- 
el and  dreaming  pictures  around  us. 

In  one  place^  where  the  natives  were  on  the  look-out^ 
and  where,  as  we  had  since  ascertained,  there  is  a 
fort,  we  were  hailed,  and  asked  a  number  of  ques- 
tions. Having  obtained  permission  to  proceed,  we 
did  not  stop,  but  told  them  our  destination,  and  heed- 
ed not,  neither  understood  their  cries. 

Before  we  left  the  ship,  we  visited  one  of  the 
Chinese  junks,  waiting  on  the  bar  for  a  favorable 
wind,  and  were  much  disappointed  to  learn  that  Gutz- 
Jaff  had  sailed,  but  a  few  days  before,  for  China.  As 
there  were  Christian  books  in  the  junks,  and  some  of 
the  sailors  were  well  acquainted  with  his  history, 
there  was  Mttle  reason  to  doubt  the  correctness  of  the 
statement.  We  were  thus  prepared  to  hear,  that  he 
had  actually  embarked  on  the  expedition  in  which  his 

*  j^outhe^'s  IV^adoc, 


iSiAM.  209 

heart  has  been  absorbed,  and  for  which  t)ivine  Provi- 
dence had  now  opened  a  way. 

Soon  after  midnight  we  reached  the  residence  of 
Seignor  Carlos  de  Silveira,  the  Portuguese  consul,  who 
received  us  with  much  kindness  and  hospitality.  This 
gentleman  entertained  the  missionaries  during  the 
early  part  of  their  first  visit — assigned  them  a  house 
on  his  own  lands — and  when  they  were  opposed  by 
the  Roman  Catholics,  and  through  them,  by  the  na- 
tive authorities,  continued  their  Warm  friend,  not- 
withstanding the  threatened  loss  of  all  his  property, 
and  the  menace  of  expulsion  from  the  Siamese  do- 
minions. The  same  disinterested  kindness  has  ever 
been  evinced  by  R.  Hunter,  Esq.,  the  only  English 
merchant  in  the  place,  who  in  the  time  of  their  great- 
est trial,  received  the  missionaries  into  his  house,  and 
exerted  all  his  influence  on  their  behalf — determined 
to  risk  every  thing,  rather  than  have  them  driven 
from  the  kingdom.  Mr.  H.  remains  in  the  country, 
and  will  no  doubt  ever  render  the  missionaries  all  the 
assistance  which  his  well  known  character,  and  the 
rank  the  king  has  conferred  on  him,  enable  him  to 
afford. 


CHAPTER  X. 


SIAM    CONTINUED. 

On  his  first  visit,  the  writer  spent  six  months  at 
Siam,  which  time  was  devoted  to  the  study  of  the 
Chinese  and  Siamese  languages,  and  to  the  ordinary- 
duties  of  the  mission.  A  few  general  remarks, 
founded  upon  the  information  obtained  at  that  time, 
and  corrected  and  enlarged  by  a  succeeding  visit,  will 
give  the  reader  some  idea  of  the  place  and  its  inhab- 
itants. 

The  country,  as  far  as  regards  scenery  and  improve- 
ments, is  extremely  uninteresti»g.  There  is  not  a 
hill — scarcely  a  mound  to  interrupt  the  dead  level, 
which  spreads  in  a  wide  compass  around  the  capital. 
The  soil  is  exceedingly  productive  ;  it  surpasses  in 
the  rich  variety,  and  abundance  of  its  fruits,  nearly 
all  the  adjacent  regions,  and  is  probably  not  surpassed 
by  any  country  of  the  east.* 

Bankok,  the  capital,  is  situated  upon  the  Meinam. 


*  Besides  the  more  valuable  productions,  Siam  abounds  in  the  most 
delicious  fruits  of  the  east — plantains,  oranges,  shadachs,  durians^ 
the  bread  fruit,  and  above  all,  the  mangosteen  and  mango,  in  the 
greatest  perfection. 

19 


21^  '  siaM. 

The  palaces  of  the  two  kings,  and  of  some  of  the 
princes,  are  inclosed  within  a  wall,  while  the  suburbs 
extend  about  two  or  three  miles  above  and  below  the 
royal  residences,  and  on  each  side  of  the  river.  As 
the  houses  are  generally  situated  upon  the  water,  or 
near  its  edge,  the  river  may  be  considered  as  the  high- 
vvay,  the  mart  and  pleasure  grounds  of  the  city. 
Here  the  mass  of  the  population  reside,  carry  on  their 
business  and  take  their  recreation.  The  most  pro- 
jecting row  of  houses  is  built  upon  bamboo  rafts,  and 
moored  or  secured  to  fixtures  upon  shore.  Of  course, 
their  locality  can  be  changed  without  difficulty,  and 
sometimes,  without  the  concurrence  of  the  inmates. 
It  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  see  them  come  floating 
down  the  stream,  with  all  their  contents,  set  adrift, 
perhaps,  by  ships  in  their  vicinity,  and  carrying 
away,  in  their  turn,  those  against  which  they  may  be 
driven  by  the  impulse  first  received,  or  the  eddies  into 
which  they  are  whirled. 

Those  houses  situated  nearer  the  shore,  or  partly 
on  the  bank  of  the  river,  are  founded  upon  piles  rais- 
ed above  the  rise  of  the  tides.  These  are  generally 
inhabited,  although  some  of  the  best  are  used  as 
cool  retreats  for  the  kings  and  men  of  wealth,  who 
live  on  shore.  In  many  places,  the  dwellings  retire 
some  distance  from  the  margin  of  the  riverj  and  either 
form  a  narrow  extended  street,  as  on  the  city  side  of 
the  water  ;  or  branch  off  toward  the  interior ;  or  are 
scattered  over  the  face  of  the  country,  amid  gardens, 
jungle,  and  rice  fields.  There  are  many  interesting 
and  varying  views,  as  you  pass  up  the  winding  course 
of  Meinam*     The  finest  specimens  of  architecture  are 


the  temples,  which  generally  occupy  the  best  sites,  and 
cover,  with  the  array  of  monastic  buildings  attached 
to  them,  a  large  area  of  ground.  These  and  the  pal- 
aces, glittering  with  gold  and  other  ornaments,  to- 
gether with  a  few  mansions  belonging  to  the  princes, 
derive  no  trifling  part  of  their  magnificence  from  the 
contiguity  and  contrast  of  the  mean  huts  composing 
the  remainder  of  the  city. 

In  passing  along  the  river,  many  rural  beauties  are 
fancied  to  exist  on  shore.  A  variety  of  palms,  the 
bread  fruit,  the  silk  cotton,  (Bombax  cliba,)  the  tam- 
arind, with  a  profusion  of  other  less  majestic,  though 
equally  valuable  trees — all  flourishing  in  this  congen- 
ial soil,  and  blooming  in  the  richest  luxuriance,  ap- 
pear like  groves,  and  arbors,  and  parks;  while  the 
houses  and  temples,  peeping  through  the  self-formed 
avenues,  are  mistaken  for  dwellings  of  taste  and  com- 
fort. But  the  place  is  disenchanted  of  its  beauty,  the 
moment  the  shore  is  gained.  The  temples  excepted, 
where  some  little  taste  and  ingenuity  are  displayed, 
every  thing  is  improvable,  but  nothing  improved. 
Neither  order,  convenience,  ornament,  nor  comfort, 
are  consulted  in  the  situation  and  structure  of  their 
houses. 

In  and  near  the  city,  a  few  streets  have  been  laid 
out,  while  in  many  parts,  instead  of  accommodating 
the  houses  to  any  line  of  roads,  the  roads,  or  paths, 
are  interrupted  and  bent  in  almost  every  direction,  by 
the  encroachment  of  the  buildmgs.  The  want  of 
roads  and  good  foot-paths,  and  almost  all  conveniences 
for  out-door  exercise,  is  one  of  the  most  serious  objec- 
tions to  a  residence  in  Siam,     The  natives,  like  their 


214  SIAM. 

god  Budha,  appear  to  luxuriate  in  indolence,  and  con- 
sequently, when  obliged  to  move,  are  contented  with 
the  most  passive  modes  of  locomotion.  The  rivers^ 
creeks,  and  canals,  are  so  numerous,  that  they  can  go 
in  boats  to  almost  every  place,  were  business  or  pleas- 
ure calls  them. 

There  are  many  points  of  painful  interest  con- 
nected with  the  state  of-  society  in  iS-iam.  Its  popula- 
tion, consisting  of  four  or  five  millions  of  souls,  is 
made  up  of  Siamese,  natives  of  Laos,  Cambojians,  Pe- 
guins,  Malays,  Burmese,  descendants  of  Portuguese, 
Cochin-Chinese,  and  Chinamen. 

With  the  exception  of  the  Chinese,  who  pay  a  tri- 
ennial capitation  sum,  this  whole  population  is  divi- 
ded into  two  classes — such  as  are  bound  to  perpetual 
slavery,  and  those  who  are  submitted  to  a  service  tax 
of  a  portion  of  their  time.  The  former  are  either 
conquered  enemies,  from  the  country  of  Laos  and  the 
Malayan  peninsula,  or  stolen  subjects  from  the  fron- 
tiers of  Burmah  and  Pegu.  Twenty  thousand  Laos 
captives  were  transferred  at  one  time  from  their  native 
land,  and  distributed  among  the  Siamese  princes,  and 
men  of  authority.  These  poor  creatures  are  more  op- 
pressed than  all  their  fellow  slaves.  As  you  enter  the 
palaces  of  the  kings,  or  mansions  of  the  great  men, 
it  is  distressing  to  witness  women  and  men  of  every 
age,  toiling  in  fetters,  as  though  the  clank  of  their 
chains  was  music  in  the  ears  of  their  cruel  lords. 
The  reason  assigned  for  such  inhumanity,  is  the  fear 
of  their  escape  ;  but  one  is  strongly  tempted  to  believe, 
from  this  and  other  cruelties  equally  revolting,  that 
they  estimate  their  own  importance,  as  much  by  the 


SIAM.  215 

misery  as  the  multiplicity  of  their  slaves.  Many  of 
this  class,  having  no  employment  at  home,  are  sent 
out  to  labor  for  the  benefit  of  their  masters  ;  some  of 
them  own  several  thousands,  and  derive  considerable 
emolument  from  their  services. 

It  is  not  uncommon  to  expose  these  unfortunate 
beings  to  sale,  often  at  the  most  reduced  prices,  and 
to  have  them  purchased  even  by  officers  of  govern- 
ment, for  a  traffic  as  vile  as  the  deepest  depravity 
could  suggest.  Numbers  of  females  are  daily  sent 
forth  in  the  most  disgraceful  capacity,  and  if  they  do 
not  return  at  night  with  a  sum  fixed  by  their  masters, 
they  are  often  cruelly  beaten.  If  they  refuse  this  odi- 
ous life — and  some  of  them  have  spurned  its  debase- 
ment— the  master  is  quite  at  liberty  as  to  the  mode 
and  measure  of  the  punishment.  To  the  number  of 
slaves  already  mentioned,  must  be  added  the  children, 
whom  the  allcdged  necessities  of  their  parents  oblige 
them  to  sell,  and  who  are  bought  for  any  purpose 
which  their  covetous  or  licentious  masters  may 
choose. 

The  other  class  referred  to,  who  are  submitted  to  a 
service  tax  of  part  of  their  time,  includes  all  the  oth- 
er inhabitants  of  the  country,  with  the  exception  of 
the  Chinese.  Even  the  natives  of  Siam,  and  the  no- 
minal Christians,  descendants  of  Portuguese,  are 
among  the  number.  These,  with  some  exceptions 
of  the  more  wealthy,  are  reduced  to  a  state  of  partial 
slavery,  being  obliged  to  employ  much  of  their  time 
in  the  king's  service,  and  receiving  for  their  labor  the 
smallest  compensation.  If  they  are  not  so  fortunate 
as  to  lay  by  a  small  store  during  their  liberty,  for  this 

19* 


216  SIAM. 

hour  of  need,  or  their  wives  and  children  are  unsmC' 
cessful  in  a  petty  trade,  by  which  many  of  them  sub- 
sist, they  and  their  famihes  are  reduced  to  the  greatest 
straits. 

By  the  laws  of  the  land,  or  the  neglect  of  their  ad- 
ministration, they  are  allowed  to  pilfer  from  the  poor 
hucksters,  such  eatables  as  their  necessities  require, 
and  their  strength  can  secure.  The  Chinese  who  sell 
vegetables  and  fruit,  complain  bitterly  of  this  custom- 
redress  is  out  of  the  question.  Some  of  this  class 
have  little  or  no  time  to  themselves — others  have 
liberty  of  one  third,  one  half,  and  two  thirds  of  the 
year.  What  are  the  particular  rules  of  this  difference, 
I  am  not  informed.  Those  slaves  and  subjects  allot- 
ted by  the  king  to  the  princes  and  officers  of  govern- 
ment, have  the  names  of  their  masters  written  upon 
their  arms,  and  are  quite  at  their  control. 

The  more  respectable  and  wealthy,  ^  mentioned  a>^ 
exceptions  to  this  system  of  service  taxation,  are  ex- 
ceptions only  to  a  limited  extent.  They  are  either 
employed  as  civil  or  military  officers  in  his  majesty's 
service,  or  are  obliged  to  procure  a  substitute  for  their 
own  bodily  labor.  In  fact,  with  all  their  boasts  of 
freedom — and  freemen  is  the  appellation  by  which  the 
nation  is  known,  in  their  own  language,  Siam  is  a 
land  of  slaves  •  the  king  being  the  only  exception  to 
universal  vassalage.  His  majesty  can  employ  any 
subject  upon  any  business,  for  any  length  of  time, 
under  any  circumstances,  and  upon  any  conditions. 
A  portion  of  almost  every  day  is  spent  by  the  officers 
and  the  princes,  in  lying  prostrate  before  him,  and 
awaiting  his  pleasure. 


&IAM.  217 

Tlie  Chinese  have  been  mentioned  as  enjoying" 
more  liberty,  and  greater  advantages  than  others. 
Even  they  groan  under  the  burden  of  taxes,  and  when 
convicted  of  crime,  often  unjustly  as  they  affirm,  are 
made  to  expiate  their  guilt  by  manual  labor,  continu- 
ed beyond  all  bounds  of  equitable  punishment.  Ma- 
ny of  them,  while  toiling  daily,  and  throughout  tho 
day,  for  the  king,  are  thrown  for  their  sustenance  upon 
the  mercy  of  their  friends,  the  charities  of  the  public, 
or  those  dishonorable  measures  which  the  starving  in 
his  majesty's  service  are  allowed  to  employ. 

As  a  necessary  consequence  of  these  oppressive  cus- 
toms, paverty  is  a  co-mmon  evil.  The  great  mass  of 
the  inhabitants  have  barely  enough  to  support  their 
existence,  and  that  upon  the  most  simple  fare.  Du- 
ring the  term  of  service  required  by  their  masters, 
they  scarcely  receive  sufficient  for  their  individual 
maintenance, — and  even  their  own  time,  when  made 
available  to  private  interest,  is  not  secure  from  an  arbi- 
trary call  to  extra  service,  or  war.  At  one  season  of 
the  year,  crowds  of  boats  are  moored  abreast  of  the 
palace.  These  belong  to  men  who  reside  in  the  coun- 
try, and  who  are  annually  called  from  their  homes 
and  rice  fields,  ta  spend  two  or  three  months  in  prac- 
ticing the  art  of  gracefully  paddling  the  king's  boats. 
During  all  this  term  of  useless  service,  they  are  un- 
der the  necessity  of  supporting  themselves,  and  neg- 
lecting their  families. 

The  misery  of  the  nation  is  increased  by  the  cor- 
rupt administration  of  justice.  Many  of  the  laws  are 
equitable,  but  alas !  they  are  only  imperative  when 
the  judge  can  make  them  answer  a  private  end.     Of 


218  SIAM. 

the  unwritten  statutes,  which,  hke  the  traditions  of 
the  elders,  are  the  only  ones  deemed  practical,  the 
most  imperative  law  is  the  royal  nod, — the  next  is  the 
pleasure  of  the  prime  minister ;  and  so  through  the 
descending  scale  of  official  rank,  the  superior  has  the 
the  control  of  the  inferior,  and  his  will  the  precedence 
of  the  litera  scripta. 

P^rom  the  throne  to  the  lowest  bench  of  justice,  the 
all  absorbing  object  is  self-aggrandizement.  Even 
the  monarch  appears  to  regard  his  own  interest  as 
perfectly  distinct  from  the  prosperity  of  his  subjects. 
In  times  of  scarcity,  as  the  writer  has  witnessed,  there 
is  frequently  no  provision  made  for  the  suffering 
poor,  when  it  might  be  effected  with  little  cost  or 
trouble.  In  fact,  such  is  the  sovereignty  of  money, 
that  multitudes  prefer  putting  up  with  indignities  and 
losses — for  which  the  law,  according  to  its  letter  and 
intention,  would  afford  redress — rather  than  be  com- 
pelled through  necessary  bribes,  or  an  unjust  decision, 
to  risk  the  endurance  of  additional  suffering,  by  an 
appeal  to  justice. 

Besides  these  evils,  over  which  the  common  people 
have  no  control,  there  are  others  of  a  moral  nature, 
which  greatly  aggravate  their  present  sufferings. 
Among  these,  is  the  abuse  of  the  marriage  contract, 
with  its  train  of  complicated  miseries.  Polygamy  is 
in  high  vogue.  The  king's  seraglio  contains  between 
five  hundred  and  one  thousand  women  ;  and  all  the 
princes,  in  fact  the  whole  kingdom,  have  no  other 
limitation  to  numbers,  than  their  wishes  and  wealth. 
The  poorer  classes  are  of  course  restricted  by  neces- 
sity, and  one  evil  is  thus  checked  by  another. 


SIAM.  119 

Connected  with  this  multiplication  of  wives,  and 
its  consequent  relaxation  of  all  the  ties  of  kindred  and 
affection,  there  are  other  prevalent  customs  in  Siam, 
quite  as  fatal  to  human  happiness.  A  man  who  is 
unsuccessful  in  gambling,  or  reduced  to  poverty  by 
other  means,  may  sell  his  wife — with  the  liberty  of 
redeeming  her  for  the  same  sum  and  expenses  she 
has  incurred  ;  or  if  his  admiration  of  her  good  quali- 
ties ceases,  he  may  put  her  away  and  procure  another. 
If  the  wife  was  purchased— a  common  substitute  for 
courtship — and  has  no  children,  there  is  generally  no 
difficulty  in  dissolving  the  connection.  If  she  be  able 
to  pay  the  amount  of  her  original  purchase,  she  may 
have  the  same  advantage  over  her  husband.  In  ordi- 
nary cases,  however,  the  concurrence  of  both  parties 
is  so  far  necessary,  that  the  rejected  one,  whose  con- 
sent has  not  been  obtained,  can  claim  a  support,  or  a 
sum  of  money  as  an  indemnification. 

A  man  who  fancies  the  wife  of  another,  can  gene- 
rally obtain  her,  if  his  dignity  or  wealth  gives  him 
the  advantage  of  her  husband.  And  a  creditor,  if  he 
can  get  nothing  else,  can  take  the  wife  and  children 
of  the  insolvent.  If  the  happiness  of  individuals  and 
society  at  large  depends  upon  the  inviolable  sanctity 
of  the  marriage  contract,  which  its  very  institution 
would  proclaim,  it  will  readily  be  believed  that  sucli- 
an  abuse  of  all  that  is  sacred  in  the  most  important 
relation  of  life,  must  prove  fatal  to  every  thing  but  tho 
mere  semblance  of  domestic  enjoyment. 

Gambling  is  another  source  of  depravity  and 
wretchedness  in  Siam.  The  king  derives  a  large  rev- 
enue frorn  this  licensed  evil,  and  the  den^oniapal  sp\- 


220  SIAM. 

lit  it  engenders,  and  the  dreadful  crimes  it  instigates, 
prove  it  to  be  a  moral  maelstrom,  where  the  happiness 
and  hopes  of  thousands  are  forever  lost. 

The  shameless  indecency  of  language  and  dress, 
the  latter  of  which  has  been  already  referred  to,  is  al- 
so productive  of  great  evils.  The  most  common  epi- 
thets of  abuse  in  the  kingdom  would  shock  vulgarity 
itself  in  civilized  countries,  and  yet  this  is  the  lan- 
guage employed  by  high  and  low,  men  and  women, 
from  the  angry  mother  to  her  suckling,  and  from  the 
stammering  child  to  its  offending  parent.  You  sel- 
dom go  abroad,  or  have  a  company  pass  your  dwell- 
ing, without   hearing  the  vilest  terms    mixed  up  with 


expressions  of  anger,  and  gracing  every  effort  at 
pleasantry. 

Besides  these  prevalent  evils,  lying,  cheating,  and 
pilfering,  are  exceedingly  common — robbery  and  mur- 
der by  no  means  rare.  Those  who  hav^e  commercial 
dealings  with  them,  declare  that  dishonesty  and  deceit 
are,  with  the  fewest  exceptions,  characteristic  of  the 
nation.  The  meanness  of  the  great  to  obtain  favors, 
especially  from  foreigners,  is  despicable.  They  will 
accept  any  thing  as  a  present,  and  offer  nothing  worth 
receiving  in  return — they  will  crave  most  importu- 
nately, and  often  cringingly,  what  they  know  you 
want — they  will  buy,  and  frequently  endeavor  to  cheat 
the  seller  out  of  much  of  the  stipulated  sum — they 
will  borrow  and  never  return — and  when  they  can 
get  nothing  more  from  you,  unless  they  desire  your 
society  as  amusement,  they  never  come  near  you. 

This  picture  of  the  political  and  moral  condition 
of  Siam  is  dark.     As  far  however,  as  a  careful   apd 


eiAM.  221 

iiiiniite  examination  can  insure  correctness,  it  is  delin- 
eated with  justice.  It  has  its  lights,  and  those  who 
have  but  a  partial  acquaintance  with  the  place,  may 
suppose  that  we  give  it  too  deep  a  coloring,  without 
considering  that  they  behold  it  only  in  its  most  fa* 
vorable  aspect,  and  through  a  flattering  mediumi 

Some  of  the  more  pleasing,  and  to  a  hasty  inspec- 
tion, discernable  shades  of  the  picture,  we  have  hinted 
at.  One  is  the  large  number  of  Chinese,  whose  con- 
dition is  better  than  their  fellow-citizensj  and  who 
make  an  important  figure  in  the  business  of  the  place. 
Another  is  the  undue  proportion  of  princes,  who,  like 
the  feudal  barons  of  old,  move  about  in  considerable 
style,  and  impress  the  mind  with  some  idea  of  their 
importance.  A  third  is  the  overwhelming  number  of 
priests,  whose  office  confers  immunities,  such  as  honor 
without  respectability,  and  support  without  labor. 

Besides  these,  the  majority  of  the  common  people, 
who  occupy  the  most  conspicuous  houses,  are  the  for- 
tunate class  of  tradesmen  and  shop-keepers,  from 
whose  prosperity  it  would  be  as  unwise  to  deduce  an 
opinion  of  the  general  condition  of  the  people,  as  to 
take  the  most  successful  merchants  at  home,  as  a  cri- 
terion of  the  wealth  of  the  community  at  large.  An- 
other light  to  the  sketch,  which,  however,  is  but  a 
reflected  one,  is  the  exceeding  productiveness  of  the 
country,  and  of  course,  the  cheapness  of  the  necessa- 
ries of  life. 

These  things  being  the  most  obvious  to  those  who 
pay  only  a  transient  visit  to  the  place,  who  know  no- 
thing of  the  language,  and  have  no  opportunity  of 
witnessing  the   interior  of  society,   they  imagine,    as 


S22  SIAM. 

they  do  in  regard  to  other  heathen  countries,  that  the 
•people  are  happy ^  and  that  western  refinement  and  re- 
ligion would  not  improve  their  condition. 

The  religion  of  Siam  is  Buddhistic.  From  the 
best  authorities,  there  are  more  than  twenty  thousand 
priests  in  the  kingdom,  one  half  or  two  thirds  of 
whom  reside  in  Bankok,  and  its  vicinity^  The  tem- 
ples are  built  at  the  expense  of  the  king,  or  the  prin- 
cipal men  in  the  kingdom.  His  majesty  has  shown 
himself  peculiarly  zealous  in  the  maintenance  of  the 
State  religion.  He  has  many  temples  with  their 
monasteries,  under  his  own  patronage,  which  are  call- 
ed by  his  name,  and  supported  by  his  royal  bounty. 
These  occupy  the  best  grounds,  and  are  built  in  a 
style  of  splendor  with  which  nothing  but  the  palace 
Can  compare. 

For  the  support  of  the  priests,  a  monthly  allowance 
of  rice  and  money  is  made  from  the  public  treasury. 
Besides  this,  they  enjoy  not  only  the  religious  merits, 
but  the  temporal  advantages  of  mendicity.  Every 
morning  they  sally  forth  to  collect  the  alms  of  the 
people,  and  generally  succeed  in  getting  enough  for 
themselves,  and  a  host  of  human  and  canine  pension- 
ersj  whom  their  charity  attracts  from  every  quarter. 
The  rarest  delicacies  of  the  season  are  among  the 
gifts  with  which  they  are  loaded ;  and  the  women, 
who  appear  by  far  the  most  devout,  never  visit  the 
temples  without  carrying  such  presents  as  their  cir- 
cumstances will  permit. 

The  priesthood  is  supplied  by  men  of  all  classes  in 
society.  The  temples  or  monasteries  are  the  only 
schools  of  learning  in  the  kingdom,  and  as  education 


stAM»  228 

is  very  prevalent,  there  is  scarcely  an  individual  who 
does  not  pass  some  portion  of  his  life  in  these  estab- 
lishments. Admittance  may  be  obtained  on  the  most 
easy  terms.  Any  person  may  enter  who  can  show 
that  he  has  an  official  release  from  the  service  tax^  is 
not  in  debt,  and  has  the  consent  of  parents  or  wife. 
Each  may  remain  as  long  as  he  pleases,  and  retire  at 
option.  When  provisions  are  dear,  many  avail  them- 
selves of  this  easy  mode  of  support,  and  while  neces- 
sity presses  or  indolence  prompts,  they  enjoy  all  the 
honors  and  profits  of  the  yellow  robe.  A  large  num- 
ber take  upon  themselves  the  monastic  vow  for  life, 
and  spend  all  their  days  in  the  prescribed  round  of  seC' 
ular  and  sacerdotal  duties. 

The  elders  teach  their  younger  brethren,  preach  at 
the  pagodas,  or  in  private  houses,  solemnize  marria- 
ges, attend  at  funerals,  consecrate  new  houses,  shave 
the  heads  of  children,  perform  certain  offices  for  the 
recovery  of  the  sick,  and  the  absolution  of  the  dead, 
and  visit  those  scenes  where  their  sacred  presence  and 
magical  arts  are  deemed  necessary.  In  former  days, 
they  decided  difficult  cases  of  judicature  by  enchant- 
ment ;  but  since  Mammon  has  usurped  the  throne  of 
justice,  causes  are  found  less  complicated,  and  the 
priests'  services  are  superseded. 

The  greatest  show  of  respect  is  paid  to  the  priests. 
Even  the  king  bows  down  in  their  presence,  and  the 
common  people  bestow  on  them  the  same  sign  of  ado- 
ration with  which  they  honor  the  idols.  But  this  re- 
spect is  chiefly  nominal,  or  if  real,  it  is  to  the  robe, 
and  not  the  man.  His  majesty,  with  all  his  profes- 
sions of  inferiority,  reserves  to  himself  the  right  of 

20 


$^24  ^  stxu. 

stripping  off  this  sacred  garment,  and  punishing  thd 
unworthy  wearer.  Some  time  ago  the  principal  priest 
or  pope  was  found  guilty  of  some  heinous  misdemea- 
nor, upon  which  he  was  disrobed,  dishonored,  and 
made  a  servant  to  the  royal  elephants.  The  chief  im- 
munities attached  to  the  priesthood  are  exemption 
from  service  tax  and  military  duties.  But  here  again, 
the  king  has  taken  liberties  upon  some  occasions,  and 
shown  that  his  will  and  interests  are  superior  to  all  the 
laws  and  rights  of  religion.  Some  years  ago,  many 
in  the  inferior  grades  of  sanctity  were  drafted  into  the 
army,  which  occasioned  among  them  the  most  turbu- 
lent commotion.  It  ended  in  a  partial  rebellion— a 
plot  to  assassinate  the  king,  and  finally  in  the  appre- 
hension of  seven  hundred  of  their  own  number. 

With  so  few  restraints,  and  surrounded  by  so  many 
objects  of  temptation,  it  is  rather  surprising,  that  any 
of  them  should  maintain  a  consistent  conduct ;  such 
is  the  case,  however,  with  a  few  who  are  intelligent^ 
exemplary,  and  highly  esteemed  ;  but  the  majority 
bear  a  very  different  character,  and  pursue  a  disgrace- 
ful course  of  life. 

The  influence  of  all  this  display  of  idolatry  upon 
the  nation,  argues  very  little  in  favor  of  the  moral 
advantages  of  Buddhism.  Those  who  are  the  most 
dishonest  in  the  means  they  adopt  to  secure  wealth, 
are  often  the  most  liberal  supporters  of  the  priests  and 
their  mummeries.  In  fact,  a  blind  and  nearly  equal 
reverence  for  the  priests  and  their  idols,  and  a  due  re- 
gard to  the  temporal  wants  of  the  former,  is  the  main 
article — too  often  the  sum  of  their  practical  religion. 

The  religion   of  Burmah,   Pegu,   and  Laos,  being 


/  «iAM.  225 

the  same,  the  natives  of  these  respective  countries, 
who  reside  in  Siam,  join  in  the  worship  of  their  mas- 
ters. 

The  Chinese  have  brought  their  creed  and  idols 
with  them,  and  here,  as  at  home,  they  worship  their 
gods  for  temporal  favors,  and  express  their  reverence, 
only  by  "  sacrificing  to  their  net  and  burning  incense 
to  their  drag."  Many  of  them  are  Buddhists  ;  they 
readily  unite  with  the  Siamese,  if  any  end  can  be 
gained  by  doing  so. 

The  Malays  practice  a  species  of  Islamism,  mixed 
up  with  some  of  the  ancient  rites  and  customs  of  their 
Pagan  forefathers.  They  are  exceedingly  noisy  in 
their  devotions.  At  some  seasons,  whole  companies 
of  them  spend  hours  at  a  time  in  trilling  out  loud, 
and  long-drawn  cries.  The  voices  of  men  and  wo- 
men, of  infancy,  manhood,  and  decrepitude,  are  min- 
gled in  such  grating  and  boisterous  strains,  as  conj- 
pletely  to  disturb  the  surrounding  region,  and  to  inter* 
rupt  the  repose  of  night. 

The  Portuguese  profess  a  corrupt  Catholicism, 
which  symbolizes,  in  many  respects,  with  the  supersti- 
tions of  their  Pagan  neighbors,  and  proves  quite  as 
inert  in  its  moral  influence.  There  are  about  one 
thousand  of  them,  who,  with  one  or  two  respectable 
exceptions,  are  as  deeply  sunk  in  mental  and  moral 
debasement  as  the  lowest  class  of  pagans  around  them. 
Destitute  of  the  force  of  truth  in  their  creed,  of  mo- 
rals in  their  practice,  of  respectability  in  their  charac- 
ter, and  even  of  pecuniary  show  in  their  external  cir- 
cumstances ;  their  religion  makes  the  least  possible 
proo;ress  among;  their  heathen  neighbors, 


22C  SIAM. 

The  deep  degradation,  and  scandalous  immoralities 
of  many  of  them,  cast  dishonor  on  the  Christian  name^ 
to  which  they,  as  well  as  all  their  brethren  in  the 
East,  most  pertinaciously  cling-. 

A  person  may  form  some  idea  of  the  comparative 
reasonableness  of  these  different  religions,  without 
leaving  his  abode.  One  night  he  hears  the  bells  and 
drums  of  Buddhism  ;  the  next,  the  wearisome  cando- 
ry  cries  of  the  Mussulmans;  the  third,  the  gong, 
drums  and  squibs  of  the  Chinese  ;  and  the  fourth,  the 
bells,  drums,  crackers,  and  guns  of  the  Roman  Catho- 
lics, who  seem  determined  to  confound  the  confusion 
of  them  all,  and  to  bear  away  the  inglorious  palm. 

Until  very  recently,  nothing  was  attempted  by  the 
Protestant  world  for  the  moral  benefit  of  Slam.  The 
first  missionaries  who  visited  the  place,  belonged  to 
other  stations,  and  went  to  Siam  unsent  by  the  church- 
es at  home.  Had  it  been  left  to  their  tardy  opera- 
tions, the  probability  is,  that  the  kingdom  would  still 
Iiave  been  supposed  inaccessible,  or  unimportant,  as 
a  field  of  Christian  missions. 

In  the  autumn  of  1828,  Messrs.  Gutzlaff  and  Tom- 
lin  arrived  at  Siam,  and  commenced  an  interesting  se- 
ries of  labors,  in  the  joint  capacities  of  missionaries 
and  physicians.  Their  journals  are  before  the  Chris- 
tian public.  Mr.  Tomlin  was  driven  from  the  place 
by  ill  health,  after  a  residence  of  nine  months,  and 
Mr.  Gutzlaff  continued  the  duties  of  the  mission  for 
nearly  three  years.  During  this  time,  the  New  Tes- 
tament and  parts  of  the  Old,  were  translated ;  a  vo- 
cabulary was  formed,  and  two  or  three  religious  books 
written.     One  of  the  tracts  went  through  the  press. 


siAM.  227 

and  has  been  circulated.  The  other  works  required 
revision  and  correction,  and  owing  to  a  train  of  provi- 
dential obstacles  have  not  been  printed  to  this  day. 
Mr.  Gutzlaff  had  also  the  gratification  of  baptizing  a 
Chinaman,  who  had  renounced  his  idols  and  heathen- 
ish customs,  and  who,  as  far  as  could  be  judged,  had 
been  made  "  a  partaker  of  the  promise  in  Christ  by 
the  Gospel." 

A  few  days  after  the  departure  of  Mr.  Gutzlaff  for 
China,  Mr.  Tomlin  and  myself  reached  the  place. 
We  immediately  unpacked  our  books — the  published 
tract  spoken  of,  and  others  in  the  Chinese  language, 
opened  the  medical  depository,  engaged  teachers,  and 
commenced  our  labors.  These  interesting  duties 
were  continued  six  months,  when  my  fellow  mission- 
ary was  called  away  to  another  sphere  of  exertion ; 
and  I  was  obliged,  from  a  declension  of  health,  to  try 
the  effect  of  a  change  of  air  and  scene. 

A  narrative  of  events  during  this  period,  has  been 
published.  Our  time  was  most  actively  employed  in 
laboring,  to  the  extent  of  our  ability,  and  in  extend- 
ing our  ability  for  increased  exertion.  Throngs  of 
patients,  afflicted  with  almost  every  disease,  daily  ap- 
plied for  relief,  and  crowds  of  applicants  for  books 
soon  carried  away  our  entire  stock.  Of  the  former 
number,  many  were  greatly  benefited.  How  far  our 
spiritual  applications  were  productive  of  good,  was 
not  so  easy  to  ascertain  ;  although  we  have  reason  to 
believe,  that  our  "labors  were  not  in  vain  in  the  Lord." 

A  few  extracts  from  the  journal  kept  at  that  time 
will  give  an  idea  of  such  facts  as  were  thought  wor- 
thy of  memorizing. 

20* 


228  SIAM. 

Monday  afternoon,  July  4th,  we  called,  with  our 
friend  Mr.  Silveira,  on  the  Prah  Klang,  the  director 
of  all  the  commercial  aftairs  of  Bankok,  and  one  of 
the  principal  ministers  of  state.  On  our  way  to  his 
establishment,  about  two  miles  from  our  present  abode. 
we  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  a  part  of  the  city, 
and  its  suburbs.  For  a  long  distance  the  houses  are 
built  on  rafts,  on  each  side  of  the  river,  and  the  only 
communication  is  by  boats. 

The  dwellings  and  shops  are  constructed  of  a  slen- 
der material,  and  covered  with  attap.  Skiffs  are  em- 
ployed by  the  natives,  for  transporting  their  persons 
and  light  effects.  These  are  so  exceedingly  small, 
that  their  progress  is  very  rapid,  and  their  safety  pre- 
carious. The  paddler  is  obliged  to  sit  in  the  middle 
and  on  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  and  even  then,  his  life 
is  endangered  by  the  least  want  of  skill,  or  agitation 
of  the  waves.* 

The  women,  like  those  in  China,  bear  a  part  in  all 
kinds  of  drudger^^  and  become  exceedingly  coarse, 
and  immodest  in  appearance  and  conversation. 

We  landed  abreast  of  the  Prah  Klang's  dwelling, 
and  not  finding  him  at  home,  proceeded  a  short  dis- 
tance to  a  pagoda,  or  rather  a  suite  of  buildings,  at 
which  he  has  been  occupied  for  the  last  seven  years. 
The  princes  and  men  of  office  generally  expend  part 
of  their  income  in  erecting  temples  and  supporting 
priests.  What  a  reflection  upon  those  who,  knowing 
the  true  God,  and  possessing  abundant  means  for  ex- 


♦  Many  of  them  have  been  overturned  in  our  sight,  and  numbers 
drowned  within  a  short  distance  from  our  cottage. 


8IAM.  229 

tending  that  knowledge,  neither  make  provision  for 
their  own  eternal  welfare,  nor  oifer  their  abased  priv- 
ileges to  those  who  might  improve  them  ! 

We  were  apprised  of  approaching  the  presence  of 
the  Prah  Klang,  by  the  strange  actions  of  our  inter- 
preter, a  Portuguese  by  extraction,  and  the  only  ad- 
mitted medium  of  communication  between  the  great  . 
man  and  foreigners.  When  he  saw  him,  though  at 
a  distance  of  twenty  or  thirty  yards,  he  bent  his  bo- 
dy, and  crept  along  like  a  sportsman  approaching  the 
game  unobserved.  In  this  inclining  posture,  he  con- 
tinued until  within  a  few  yards  of  the  object  of  his 
reverence,  when  he  laid  himself  prostrate  on  the 
ground,  and  awaited  the  pleasure  of  his  superior.  We 
all  approached  and  tendered  the  obeisance  required  of 
foreigners,  namely  taking  off  the  hat,  bowing,  and 
sitting  in  his  presence.  With  the  exception  of  a 
well-conditioned  body  held  in  an  erect  posture,  there 
was  nothing  to  distinguish  the  old  man  from  the  most 
menial  of  his  train.  All  the  workmen  and  attend- 
ants, while  in  his  presence,  walked  with  their  heads 
as  near  the  ground  as  possible.  His  person  was  en- 
tirely bare,  with  the  exception  of  the  cloth  which  is 
usually  worn,  and  there  was  nothing  in  the  texture  of 
that  to  attract  our  attention. 

He  made  a  number  of  inquiries  respecting  our  sev- 
eral offices,  and  especially  our  objects  in  visiting  Siam ; 
and  appeared  satisfied  when  Mr.  Tomlin  mentioned 
that  he  and  myself  came  on  the  same  errand  which 
brought  GutzlafF  and  himself  before.  But  that  our 
fellow  passenger,  Lieut.  Daniell,  should  have  come, 
merely  for  the  benefit  of  health,  was  quite  a  paradox 


230  SIAM. 

to  the  old  man.  The  visit  of  a  British  officer  by  no 
means  tended  to  allay  the  suspicions  and  fears  with 
which  the  Burmese  war  had  filled  their  neighbors. 
The  interview  was  soon  closed.  The  interpreter 
was  commanded  to  take  us  around,  and  show  us  "  the 
great  Babylon"  which  the  old  gentleman  was  building, 
and  part  of  which  he  himself  assisted  us  to  admire. 

On  Tuesday  morning,  we  breakfasted  with  Mr. 
McDonell,  the  only  European  merchant  in  Siam,  in 
the  absence  of  Mr.  Hunter,  and  afterwards  went  to 
the  walls  of  the  palace,  to  see  the  objects  of  curiosity 
there.  Among  a  number  of  the  largest  elephants  we 
ever  saw,  were  the  famed  white  ones  of  the  king,  sup- 
posed to  be  the  habitations  of  former  sovereigns,  and 
kept  with  the  greatest  care.  None  but  the  most  hon- 
ored and  virtuous  are  thought  to  be  favored  after  the 
present  existence,  with  such  a  rare  and  dignified  resi- 
dence. Their  hue  is  far  from  being  white ;  it  is  near- 
er the  color  of  cream. 

We  walked  nearly  round  the  palace  walls ;  but 
were  not  allowed  to  enter.  They  inclose  an  exten- 
sive area,  and  the  buildings  they  contain  appear,  judg- 
ing from  the  roofs  and  spires,  to  be  both  gaudy  and 
commodious.  We  visited  a  large  pagoda,  surround- 
ed by  many  smaller  apartments,  and  lofty  pillars. 
Some  of  the  latter  were  of  considerable  elevation. 
The  principal  temples  were  closed,  and  the  priests, 
who  were  lying  about  on  their  mats  in  the  other 
buildings,  showed  no  disposition  to  gratify  our  curi- 
osity. One  of  them,  with  whom  we  attempted  to 
converse  on  the  folly  of  idol  worship^  threatened  to 
tell  the  king  that  we  were  defaming  his  gods. 


8IAM.  231 

Early  in  the  week  we  transferred  our  residence  to 
the  small  house  allotted  to  the  missionaries  by  our 
hospitable  friend.  It  stands  upon  poles,  beneath 
which  the  waters  constantly  flow,  and  though  humble 
in  appearance,  and  scanty  in  dimensions,  answers 
all  our  purposes.  Its  super-aqueous  situation  and  nu- 
merous crevices  render  it  delightfully  airy,  and  this  is 
the  point  of  chief  importance  in  the  summer  of  these 
tropical  regions. 

The  associations  of  the  place  are  solemn  and  awa- 
kening. But  a  few  months  since,  its  doors  were 
opened  to  receive  our  brother  and  sister  in  this  mis- 
sion. Now  the  latter  lies  sleeping  in  death,  but  a 
short  distance  from  us,  and  our  fellow  laborer  has 
been  called  away  to  other  scenes  of  exertion.  We 
feel  impressed  with  the  admonition,  "  whatsoever  thy 
hand  findeth  to  do,  do  it  with  thy  might.  God  grant 
us  grace  to  improve  the  lesson  of  his  providence,  and 
to  work  while  it  is  day. 

25th. — Since  our  arrival,  the  medical  depository 
has  been  a  scene  of  much  activity,  from  the  numerous 
calls  for  aid.  The  diseases  of  the  natives  are  vari- 
ous; many  of  them  brought  upon  themselves  by  their 
iniquities,  and  some  of  a  deep  and  desperate  maligni- 
ty. Our  want  of  extensive  science  and  practice, 
more  especially  my  own,  proves  rather  inconvenient  in 
cases  of  a  complicated  nature  ;  but  generally,  and  at 
times  strikingly,  our  prescriptions  are  made  to  answer 
the  desired  end. 

31st. — To-day  we  had  a  number  of  calls,  principal- 
ly for  medicine.  One  of  the  applicants  was  a  Siam- 
ese of  considerable  distinction.     Another  did  not  como 


232  siAM. 

himself,  but  sent  his  servant  with  a  very  pohte  letter. 
The  former  evinced  much  confidence  in  our  prescrip- 
tions, and  could  scarcely  be  prevented  from  giving  us 
a  recompense.  The  chief  grounds  of  our  refusal  to 
accept  remuneration  for  medicines,  are  the  import- 
ance of  having  this  strong  argument  against  the  de- 
vices of  the  enemy,  and  the  suspicions  of  the  people  ; 
and  the  unimportance  of  the  sum  which  they  would 
or  could  bestow.  The  utmost  caution  is  necessary  to 
secure  the  confidence  of  the  natives,  and  we  know  of 
no  better  means  by  which  our  motives  and  object  may 
be  known  and  commended,  than  by  proving  that  we 
act  upon  such  principles  of  disinterestedness,  as  they 
have  never  seen  exemplified  before.     '    * 

The  simplicity  of  the  native  character  both  amu* 
ses  and  interests  us.  Even  men  of  standing  in  socie- 
ty, evince  all  the  artlessness  of  children  with  us. 
They  examine  with  the  most  minute  curiosity  the  tex- 
ture and  fashion  of  the  dress,  and  not  unfrequently 
extend  their  scrutiny  to  the  body,  testing  with  their 
hands  the  depth  and  breadth  of  the  chest,  the  appear- 
ance of  the  hands,  and  arms,  and  face,  and  expressing, 
as  they  proceed,  their  admiration  or  the  contrary,  with 
the  utmost  candor.  They  often  ask  for  whatever 
they  fancy,  though  in  use,  and  if  you  refuse  their  re- 
quest, will  point  you,  if  it  be  an  article  of  dress,  to 
other  garments  which  they  suppose  abundantly  suffi- 
cient for  one  body,  while  they  very  significantly  re- 
mind you,  that  the  greater  part  of  their  own  is  not 
even  covered. 

Though  rather  troublesome  for  the  present,  we  are 
pleased  to   find  this  characteristic  so  prominent,     It 


siAti.  233 

sho\\rs  us  their  idea  of  the  superiority  of  foreigners, 
at  least  in  some  respects,  and  we  hope  will  render 
them  less  tenacious  of  their  religious  opinions,  when 
they  find  them  so  totally  different  from  the  sentiments 
of  more  polished  nations.  Some  of  them  exhibit 
much  affection  and  gratitude  for  the  medicine  and 
books.  To-day  the  number  of  applicants  for  the  lat- 
ter has  exceeded  any  thing  of  the  kind  we  have  yet 
witnessed.  High  and  low,  priest  and  people,  men 
and  women,  old  and  young,  natives  and  foreigners,  all 
throng  our  cottage,  and  urge  their  suit  with  an  elo- 
quence which  can  scarcely  be  resisted.  The  small 
number  of  books  compared  with  the  wants  of  the 
people,  makes  us  cautious  in  their  distribution,  and 
them  earnest  in  their  requests.  The  novelty  of  the 
thing  is  no  doubt  the  great  attraction.  Still,  we  know 
that  their  hearts  are  in  the  Lord's  hands,  and  that 
the  heathen  are  the  purchase  and  inheritance  of  the 
Savior. 

As  the  tract,  though  not  clothed  in  Scripture  phra- 
seology, and  not  free  from  errors,  is  an  epitome  of 
God's  word,  and  illustrates  particularly  the  redemption 
of  the  Savior,  we  are  encouraged  to  believe  that  it 
shall  produce  effect. 

August  1st. — Whenever  the  weather  would  admit, 
we  have  spent  an  hour  or  two  before  breakfast,  in 
teaching  the  people,  from  house  to  house.  They  lis- 
ten to  the  Gospel  with  attention,  and  though  their  own 
idolatry  is  plainly  denounced,  say  nothing  in  its  vin- 
dication. We  daily  meet  with  the  very  counterpart 
of  characters  in  Gospel  lands;  men  who  will  take 
the  subject  from  your  lips,  and  descant  upon  it  with 


/ 


234  siJiM. 

eloquence,  to  those  around  them  ;  but  who  evidently 
know  little  of  its  import,  and  nothing  of  its  power. 
Their  eloquence  is  exhausted  upon  minor  topics,  and 
when  reminded  of  the  great  mysteries  of  the  Gospel, 
— the  points  of  difference  between  Christianity  and 
the  ethics  of  Confucius,  they  show  by  their  silence 
that  they  are  quite  as  ignorant  as  their  audience. 

August  20th. — Since  our  arrival,  we  have  been  vis- 
ited by  several  of  the  princes,  whose  curiosity  and 
covetousness  prove  rather  troublesome.  The  most 
interesting  character  among  them  makes  himself  well 
known  to  all  visitors,  and  would,  if  divested  of  the 
fear  of  royal  displeasure,  and  rightly  guided  in  his 
fondness  for  foreign  customs,  become  the  greatest 
blessing  to  the  nation.  He  is  the  younger  son  of  the 
ex-queen;  his  elder  brother,  entitled  by  birthright  to 
the  throne,  in  the  place  of  the  reigning  monarch,  has 
become  a  priest,  by  which  he  is  saved  the  mortification 
of  bowing  down  to  one  whom  he  is  unwilling  to  re- 
gard as  his  superior.  The  title  of  our  visitor  is, 
^'Lord  of  heaven."  His  age  is  about  twenty-three. 
He  has  acquired  a  smattering  of  English,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  intelligent,  manly,  and  improvable  charac- 
ters in  the  kingdom.  He  is  desirous  to  obtain  a  cor- 
rect knowledge  of  our  language,  and  probably  makes 
this  his  principal  object  in  visiting  us.  Our  prayerful 
endeavor  is  to  instruct  him  in  the  principles  of  the 
Gospel,  and  bring  him  to  a  knowledge  of  "  the  truth 
as  it  is  in  Jesus."  We  are  animated  in  our  efforts  by 
the  mere  possibility  that  he  may  be  preparing  to  exert 
an  extensive  influence  in  favor  of  Christianity — that 


perhaps  he  may  be  kept  from  the  throne,  only  to  fill 
it  in  future  as  "  a  nursing  father"  to  the  church. 

This  evening  is  the  fourth  in  succession  that  we 
have  been  honored  by  the  visits  of  young  men  in  the 
higher  walks  of  life.  One  of  them  was  a  prince,  to 
whom  Mr.  Tomlin  had  given  an  English  Bible  when 
at  Siam  before.  He  has  a  peculiarly  amiable  counte- 
nance, and  fascinating  demeanor ;  but,  like  all  his 
countrymen,  is  as  inquisitive  as  a  child  in  examining 
every  foreign  trifle  that  catches  his  eye.  He  took  tlie 
last  bound  tract  on  our  table,  and  left  upon  our  minds 
an  impressive  concern  for  his  everlasting  welfare. 

Two  of  the  Prah  Klang's  sons,  with  their  suites^ 
spent  the  last  evening  with  us.  The  elder  is  an  in- 
telligent though  crafty  youth,  who  exerts  a  powerful 
influence  for  one  of  his  age,  and  is  probably  destined 
to  make  a  conspicuous  figure  on  the  political  arena  of 
Siam.  From  his  inquiries  about  the  book  we  had 
been  distributing,  whether  it  was  written  and  printed 
by  natives,  and,  if  not,  who  it  was  that  had  taught 
foreigners  the  language,  we  thought  we  saw  symptoms 
of  alarm,  or  suspicion,  which  were  probably  transmit- 
ted from  the  old  man  who  sent  him.  We  gave  him 
an  unbound  volume  of  the  book,  about  which  he  in-^ 
quired)  assured  that  he  could  find  nothing  exceptiona- 
ble in  it,  and  hoping  that  he  might  be  led  to  examine 
it  much  more  minutely  and  profitably,  than  the  when^ 
the  where^  and  the  how^  of  its  production. 

August  22d. — An  event  occurred  to-day,  which 
we  earnestly  pray  may  be  repeated,  until  the  whole 
kingdom  is  converted  to  Christ.  A  priest,  of  a  very 
respectable  appearance  and  train,  sent  a  messenger  be- 

21 


fore  him,  to  inform  us  that  he  had  read  onr  book  with 
approbation,  and  being  unable  to  comprehend  some 
of  its  doctrines,  would  be  happy  to  receive  from  our 
lips  a  solution  of  his  difficulties.  He  waited  a  short 
distance  from  the  house,  until  the  messenger  returned 
to  him  with  a  favorable  answer.  He  remained  a  long 
time,  and  plied  us  with  such  questions  as  convinced 
us  that  he  had  thought  deeply  on  the  subjects.  The 
Savior  of  sinners  was  the  burden  of  his  inquiries — 
who  he  was — what  was  the  distinction  between  him 
and  the  Father — whether  his  love  extended  to  men  of 
all  nations — how  he  expiated  the  sins  of  the  guilty — 
and  whether  God  the  Father  bore  an  equal  affection 
to  the  world. 

He  was  particular  in  inquiring  about  the  nature  of 
sin,  the  process  by  which  the  heart  could  be  sanctifi* 
ed,  and  the  manner  of  divine  worship.  Many  points  of 
minor  importance  were  proposed,  and  a  number  of  his 
own  opinions  submitted  to  the  test  of  our  faith.  Such 
Was  the  earnestness  of  the  man,  that  when  he  thought 
his  questions  not  perfectly  understood,  he  would  turn 
to  a  Chinese  youth  in  his  train,  and  beg  him  to  put 
the  inquiry  in  Chinese.  It  afforded  a  good  opportuni- 
ty for  preaching  the  Gospel  to  apparent  advantage, 
and  many  most  important  ideas  were  suggested  to  his 
inquiring  mind. 

September  iOth. — Three  priests  of  distinction  spent 
part  of  the  evening  with  us.  Probably  with  the  fears, 
though  evidently  not  the  object  of  Nicodemus,  they 
came  "  by  night."  They  had  been  before,  and  had 
greatly  interested  us  by  their  mild  and  friendly  demea- 
nor.    Of  Jesus  and  his  religion,  they  always  speak 


siAM.  237 

with  approbation,  though,  we  fear,  not  always  with 
sincerity.  It  is  dehghtful  that  his  blessed  name,  and 
some  knowledge  of  his  character  and  offices,  are  be- 
coming familiar  to  these  deluded  men.  It  is  by  no 
means  uncommon  for  us  to  be  saluted  by  the  title  of 
disciples  of  Jesus, — often  with  an  encomium  upon 
the  gracious  Being  whom  we  serve.  The  folly  and 
consequences  of  idol  worship  were  plainly  pointed 
out  to-night,  and  the  unpublished  portion  of  Scripture, 
containing  the  sermon  on  the  mount,  given  to  one  o£ 
them  to  read  aloud. 

That  their  own  religion  sits  lightly  upon  many  of 
them,  is  evident  from  numerous  facts.  Some  of  them 
do  not  hesitate  to  eat,  and  even  to  ask  us  for,  articles 
strictly  prohibited  in  their  laws.  Though  not  allowed 
to  partake  of  any  thing  after  the  mid-day  meal,  two  of 
-eur  visitors  had  infringed  the  rules  befo.rcj  and  were 
waiting  to-night  only  for  the  assent  of  their  superior. 

Since  our  arrival,  the  priests  have  constituted  a 
large  proportion  of  our  visitors.  Hundreds,  probably 
thousands,  have  applied  for  books  and  medicines,  and 
not  a  few  of  them  have  become  very  sociable,  and  frer 
quently  spend  part  of  the  day,  or  evening,  with  us. 
They  express  not  the  least  aversion  to  the  dissemina- 
tion of  a  faith,  which  they  might  know  is  opposed  to 
their  own.  Many  of  them,  there  is  every  reason  to 
believe,  eare  nothing  about  their  own  religion,  and 
know  as  little  about  ours.  Not  expecting  to  remain 
in  these  monasteries  beyond  the  term  of  their  pupilage^ 
they  appear  to.  feel  themselves  quite  as  much  at  liber- 
ty to  gratify  their  curiosity,  as  to  sacrifice  it  to  an  ob- 
ject in  which  they  have  no  permanent  interest.     Se- 


238  siAM. 

lected  from  all  classes  of  society,  and  destined  to  fill 
all  stations  in  public  life — having  abundant  leisure  to 
read,  and  seemingly  desirous  to  learn  the  contents  of 
our  little  volume — we  should  be  callous  indeed,  if  our 
hearts  did  not  often  move  with  sorrow  for  their  blind- 
ness, and  prompt  the  most  fervent  intercessions  on 
their  behalf. 

Our  most  frequent  visitor  was  introduced  to  us  by  a 
note  from  GutzlafF,  in  which,  he  is  recommended  as 
'•a friend  of  truth,  thoroughly  versed  in  the  doctrines 
of  Buddhism,  humble  and  docile,  a  chaplain  to  his 
majesty."  He  is  far  above  the  standard  of  his  coun- 
trymen, and  one  of  the  finest  models  of  unchristian- 
ized  men  we  ever  saw.  He  evinces  nothing  of  the 
idle  curiosity  of  his  countrymen  ;  but  is  fond  of  sci- 
ence, and  particularly  anxious  to  learn  the  habits,  lan- 
guages, and  religions  of  Other  nations.  He  comes 
often  for  instruction,  and  proves  himself  an  apt  and  as^ 
sidiious  scholar.  There  is  something  more  than  ordi- 
narily engaging  in  his  countenance  and  deportment  : 
and  the  knowledge  he  has  acquired  of  Christianity, 
and  the  apparent  candor  with  which  he  speaks  of  the 
gracious  Redeemer,  render  ten-fold  more  deplorable 
his  remaining  darkness,  and  controlling  fears.  At  his 
first  visit  we  gave  him  the  manuscript  life  of  Jesus, 
which  he  read ;  since  then,  he  has  taken  different 
parts  of  the  unpublished  Gospels  for  perusal. 

September  19th. — Spent  part  of  the  afternoon,  and 
dined,  in  company  with  one  of  the  Cambojian  princes. 
He  was  anxious  to  see  the  style,  and  taste  the  dishes 
of  a  European  dinner,  and  Mr.  Silveira  very  obliging- 
ly gratified  hini.     About  twenty  years  ago,  himself 


«iAM.  239 

and  elder  brother  fled  from  some  disturbances  in  their 
own  coiintryj  and  placed  themselves  under  the  pro- 
tection  of  the  king  of  Siam.  The  king  of  Cambodjia, 
their  father,  has  since  died,  and  though  the  brother  was 
the  lawful  heir  to  the  throne,  their  patron  has  sternly 
refused  them  the  liberty  of  returning  home.  A 
brother  younger  than  either  of  those  in  Siam,  has 
obtained  the  crown. 

This  prince,  though  among  the  most  intellectual  in 
the  kingdom,  has  still  all  the  curiosity  of  the  most 
ignorant.  Much  of  his  time  in  the  company  of  for- 
eigners, is  employed  in  making  familiar  and  ludicrous 
remarks  to  his  attendants.  These  generally  spread 
themselves  on  the  floor,  according  to  an  order  which 
appears  to  exist  among  them,  and  as  near  his  chair  as 
possible.  Whatever  strikes  the  prince  as  peculiarly 
good  or  offensive,  he  hesitates  not  to  pass  to  his  pros- 
trate train,  for  examination  and  remark. 

The  two  most  important  facts  we  have  gathered 
to-day,  are  that  Cambodjia  contains  more  than  half  the 
population  of  Siam,  and  has  no  Romish  priests  to  op- 
pose the  introduction  of  pure  rehgion.  As  far  as  we 
can  determine,  a  few  catechists  are  all  that  the  Roman 
Catholics  have  been  able  or  disposed  to  furnish  their 
proselytes  in  that  country,  although  the  priests  from 
Cochin-China  and  Siam  occasionally  pay  them  a  visit. 

There  is  every  reason  to  believe  that  a  Protestant 
mission  might  be  planted  in  Cambodjia.  The  best 
situation  would  probably  be  near  one  of  the  mouths 
of  its  famous  river,  or  perhaps  in  the  vicinity  of  some 
of  the  settlements  of  Malays.  Chinese  or  Japanese, 
who  have  emigrated  to  that  country.  An  annual  tr?^ 
2V 


240  SIAM. 

ding  vessel  visiting  the  place  would  be  of  double  Utili- 
ty— rendering  an  acceptable,  if  not  a  necessary  ser- 
vice to  the  missionaries,  and  improving  by  its  traffic 
the  secular  condition  of  the  people.  Here  again  we 
must  look  to  the  "  ships  of  Tarshish"  for  those  pre- 
paratory and  consecutive  services,  by  which  the  Sav- 
ior's reign  on  earth,  we  believe  is  to  be  hastened. 

October  22d,  1831. — The  present  month  is  one  of 
special  interest  to  the  Siamese.  The  priests  are  kept 
more  employed  at  their  solemnities  than  at  any  other 
time,  and  the  whole  nation,  including  the  king,  show 
more  than  a  usual  devotion  to  their  idols.  Oiferings 
are  made  to  the  river,  for  its  use  and  abuse,  during  the 
year.  A  part  of  their  ceremonies  consists  in  illumin- 
ations and  fire-works. 

Last  night  we  took  a  boat,  and  went  to  the  palace 
to  witness  an  exhibition,  in  which  the  monarch  him- 
self takes  an  active  part.  The  current,  which  at  this 
season  runs  usually  at  the  rate  of  four  or  five  miles 
an  hour,  kept  us  some  time  on  the  way,  and  made  us 
avail  ourselves  of  every  course  in  which  its  strength 
could  be  best  avoided.  Part  of  the  way,  we  passed 
among  boats  moored  near  the  shore  ;  part,  between 
floating  houses  and  the  land,  and  part,  through  small 
creeks  or  canals,  which  run  nearly  parallel  with  the 
river.  This  afforded  another  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  style  in  which  multitudes  are  obliged,  and  appa- 
rently contented,  to  live.  The  contrast  is  striking  be- 
tween the  small  and  well-peopled  huts  of  the  com- 
mon classes,  and  the  spacious  ground  and  buildings 
of  some  of  the  princes.  These  last  occupy  the  best 
situations  on  shore,   and  are  generally  grouped  with 


StAM.  241 

temples,  and  the  dwellings  of  priests  who  are  sup- 
ported at  their  expense. 

We  passed  the  Prah  Klang,  sitting  in  one  of  the 
floating  houses,  amusing  himself  with  firing  squibs 
in  the  water.  The  number  and  variety  of  small 
boats  before  the  palace  did  not  equal  our  expectations. 
As  a  mark  of  respect  we  were  all  obliged  to  keep  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  whence  the  person  of 
the  king  could  not  be  distinguished.  We  waited  un- 
til near  midnight,  before  a  lamp  was  lighted  at  the 
palace.  A  discharge  of  fire-works  was  then  heard, 
and  two  large  vessels,  on  either  side  of  the  king's  wa- 
tering-house, were  lighted  up  with  lamps.  Then  a 
number  of  small  boats  were  richly  illuminated,  and 
sent  down  the  tide.  After  which,  rockets  and  a  few 
inferior  exhibitions  of  fire-works,  were  presented. 

The  full-orbed  moon  moving  in  silent  majesty 
above  us,  and  shedding  a  lovely  radiance  over  the 
scene,  repaid  us  richly  for  the  beauties  which  her  lus- 
ter had  eclipsed.  When  shall  "  her  light  be  as  the 
light  of  the  sun,  and  the  light  of  the  sun  as  the  light 
of  seven  days,"  in  "  this  region  and  shadow  of  death  !" 

November  8th.— For  a  number  of  days,  the  king 
has  been  visiting  the  pagodas  supported  by  himself, 
and  furnishing  the  priests  with  such  articles  of  neces- 
sity and  luxury,  as  his  zeal  and  bounty  dictate.  This 
work  is  considered  highly  meritorious ;  it  is  perform- 
ed annually  at  this  season.  The  temples  built  and 
supplied  from  the  king's  treasury  are  numerous, 
amounting  to  between  twenty  and  thirty,  and  many 
days  are  usually  expended  in  completing  the  round. 
The  principal  priest  of   each  temple  is  arrayed  on 


242  siAM. 

these  occasions  by  the  hand  of  his  royal  master — the 
priest,  according-  to  the  humble  profession  of  the  mon- 
arch, being  the  superior. 

To-day  the  procession  passed  our  house.  It  con- 
sisted of  perhaps  a  hundred  barges — many  of  them 
more  elegant  than  any  thing  of,  tlie  kind,  I  had  ever 
beheld.  The  guard-boats — a  splendid  array — led  the 
van.  Some  of  them  were  so  long  and  narrow,  and 
so  well  manned,  that  they  were  capable  of  almost 
volatile  speed,  though  at  the  slightest  inclination  it 
was  evident  that  they  would  plunge  their  contents  in 
the  wave  beneath  them.  Others  of  more  substantial 
material,  and  larger  dimensions,  carried  pieces  of  ord- 
nance on  pivots,  and  were  managed  by  soldiers  dres- 
sed in  a  flaming  uniform. 

The  king's  galley  followed,  said  to  be  at  least  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  length,  and  propelled  by 
eighty  men.  A  curve  at  the  bow  and  stern  raises  it 
some  distance  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  and 
adds  much  to  the  elegance  of  its  structure.  It  is 
made  of  one  tree,  and  many  lives  were  sacrificed  in 
transferring  it  from  its  original  bed  to  this  place. 
This,  however,  is  no  consideration  with  the  Siamese. 
It  is  by  no  means  uncommon  for  numbers  to  perish, 
in  conveying  the  kings,  or  men  of  authority,  on  expe- 
ditions of  importance.  Excessive  toil,  an  exhausting 
climate,  and  wantof  relief— the  boats  being  too  narrow 
to  carry  more  than  one  set  of  hands — soon  produce 
fatal  consequences  to  the  unpitied  boatmen. 

His  majesty's  portly  person  had  no  other  covering 
than  a  cloth  about  the  loins  ;  he  was  attended  by  a 
few  of  the  women  and  children  of  his  large  family. 


siAM.  243 

The  boats  of  the  princes  followed,  many  of  them  but 
little  inferior  to  the  king's,  and  all  with  horses'  tails, 
— the  insignia  of  their  rank,  suspended  from  the  bow. 
The  train  was  closed  by  the  barges  of  persons  of  less 
importance,  and  the  whole  extended  probably  more 
than  a  mile.  We  were  obliged,  at  the  command  of  a 
precursor,  to  shut  the  door, — a  ceremony  expected 
from  all,  before  whose  houses  such  a  sacred  personage 
passes.  The  length  of  the  array — the  great  diversity 
of  boats — the  unanimous  shouts  bursting  from  so  ma- 
ny lips — the  noise  of  those  who  beat  time,  with  the 
uniform  motions  of  the  paddles,  and  the  rapidity  with 
which  the  pageant  hastened  by,  rendered  the  scene  as 
lively  to  the  senses,  as  its  object  was  sickening  to  the 
mind  of  the  Christian  beholder.  How  dreadful  is 
the  influence  of  the  great  deceiver  over  this  nation, 
commanding  his  thousands  of  the  pride  and  power  of 
the  kingdom  to  one  feat  of  idolatry. 

December  1st. — For  about  two  months,  the  Mei- 
nam  has  overflowed  its  banks,  and  laid  the  surround- 
ing country  under  water.  It  is  said  not  to  have 
equaled  its  present  bight  for  the  last  thirty  years. 
Th'is  morning  we  took  a  boat  and  steered  for  the  fields 
where  we  had  repeatedly  walked,  expecting  to  see  one 
liquid  expanse,  unbroken  save  by  the  trees  and  scatter- 
ed houses.  We  were  disappointed,  for  though  we 
proceeded  some  distance,  and  might  have  gone  as 
much  farther  as  we  pleased,  the  luxuriant  rice  had  so 
far  overtopped  the  level  of  the  water,  that  at  a  dis- 
tance the  latter  was  not  perceptible.  The  laborers 
were  moving  about  in  boats,  cutting  the  paddy,  and  at- 
tending to  other  business.     The  country  is  nearly  s% 


M4  siAM. 

dead  level,  for  an  immense  distance,  and  so  general  is 
the  present  flood,  that  it  is  said  you  can  leave  the 
channel  of  the  river,  and  make  a  straight  course  to 
Juthia,  the  ancient  capital,  about  one  hundred  miles 
distant. 

That  there  would  be  some  obstruction  from  the  tops 
of  the  paddy  appears  to  us  very  evident,  unless  the 
soil  is  more  depressed,  or  less  productive  above  Ban- 
kok  than  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  The  houses  built 
upon  rafts  have  greatly  the  advantage  at  the  present 
crisis.  In  many  of  the  others  the  water  is  so  deep, 
that  their  occupants  are  obliged  to  erect  platforms 
^bove  the  floor  upon  whicli  to  sit  and  sleep.  It  is  a 
time  of  suffering  to  the  poor,  many  of  whom  have 
made  no  provision  for  this  exigence,  and  are  compell- 
ed to  throw  themselves  upon  the  charities  of  a  heart- 
iess  pecrjT^e. 

December  6th. — About  a  fortnight  ago,  a  Cliina 
boy  appeared  before  our  door,  and  being  friendless, 
poor,  and  ill,  entreated  us  to  take  him  in.  His  case 
demanded  our  pity,  and  we  could  not  refuse.  His 
employment  had  been  suspended  on  account  of  the 
overflovvins:  of  the  waters,  and  no  man  would  receive 
him.  While  they  have  means,  there  is  no  want  of 
relatives  an4  friends  ;  but  when  the  appeal  is  only 
to  pity,  it  is  of  little  avail.  The  cruelty  of  the  Chi- 
nese especially,  is  unnatural.  They  have  even 
brought  their  sick,  reduced  to  the  last  extremity  of  dis- 
ease, and  after  laying  them  before  the  door,  endeavor- 
ed to  make  their  escape  unobserved,  glad  to  get  rid 
of  the  incumbrance,  and  careless  of  the  consequen- 
ces.    The  boy  lingered  until  Sunday,  when  he  was 


found  dead  on  the  steps  leading  to  his  door.  He  had 
probably  felt  a  sense  of  suffocation,  and  died  in  the 
attempt  to  get  into  the  air. 

There  was  something  very  affecting  in  his  case. 
Of  six  of  the  dialects  spoken  in  the  empire,  and  em- 
ployed more  or  less  by  those  who  are  found  in  these 
parts,  his  was  the  only  one  of  which  neither  our 
teacher  nor  ourselves  knew  any  thing.  We  had  both 
been  laboring  the  very  day  of  his  death  to  communi- 
cate so?iie  idea  of  spiritual  things  to  his  mind,  but 
without  effect.  Oh,  how  impressive  is  the  call  from 
the  clay,  which  its  immortal  tenant,  in  deep  ignorance 
has  just  left ! 

December  25th,  Sabbath. — Besides  the  small  band, 
consisting  of  only  four  or  six,  who  usually  worship 
with  us.  there  were  two  strangers  present  this  morn- 
ing. They  had  called  for  medicines  before,  and  from 
their  willingness  to  listen  to  the  doctrines  of  salva- 
tion, and  a  partial  knowledge  of  these  doctrines  pre- 
viously obtained,  much  interest  was  excited  on  their 
behalf.  One  of  them  mentioned  a  few  days  ago,  that 
he  had  known  the  God  of  heaven  for  a  number  of 
years ;  but  had  never  seen  the  "  sacred  books," — 
doubtless  a  very  imperfect  acquaintance.  The  other 
said  that  his  neighbors  came  to  his  house  to  worship 
the  true  God  with  him ;  but  here  again  we  cannot 
but  suspect  a  near  approach  to  heathenism,  both  in 
their  ideas  of  the  Lord  and  of  the  manner  of  his 
worship. 

They  appear,  however,  like  those  who  are  "  feeling 
after  the  Lord,"  and  we  earnestly  hope  that  He  may 
be  found  of  them.     There  is  something  so   peculiar 


346  stAiyt« 

in  their  case,  that  we  are  encouraged  to  believe  an  in- 
visible hand  is  leading  them  "  out  of  darkness  into 
marvelous  light." 

27th. — To-day  we  saw  an  illustration  of  heathen 
cruelty.  The  skiff  of  a  lad  was  upset  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  shore.  He  clung  to  the  boat  and  beg- 
ged the  assistance  of  two  men  going  by.  They  pas- 
sed within  a  few  feet  of  him  and  paid  no  attention  to 
his  request.  He  was  carried  about  half  a  mile,  with 
a  strong  current,  and  though  others  approached  very 
near,  none  would  stop  to  rescue  him.  When  I  saw 
him  last,  he  was  laboring  with  his  feet  and  the  pad- 
dle, to  get  his  boat  to  the  shore.  I  asked  the  inhuman 
men  the  cause  of  their  cruelty.  Some  made  no  re- 
ply. One  answered  in  a  tone  of  excitement,  "  He  did 
not  call,"  though  he  evidently  knew  not,  if  he  even 
turned  to  see,  whether  the  lad  was  not  too  much  ex- 
hausted for  the  exertion.  Though  this  instance  is 
the  first  of  the  kind  I  have  seen,  it  is  by  no  means  un- 
common. Mr.  Tomlin  says,  they  have  even  been 
obliged  to  hire  them  to  rescue  their  suffering  fellow- 
men  from  imminent  danger.  What  a  blessing  is  the 
Gospel,  in  its  meliorating  as  well  as  saving  influences, 
upon  the  character  of  man  ! 

Another  event,  which  evinces  the  patriotism,  per- 
haps the  cruelty,  of  a  Brutus,  has  recently  occurred. 
The  king  was  informed  that  his  son,  the  heir  appa- 
rent of  the  throne,  was  in  the  habit  of  smoking  opi- 
um. He  immediately  commanded  his  property  to  be 
sold,  and  his  person  to  be  arrested  and  imprisoned,  for 
Execution.  The  mother  interceded  in  vain.  The 
other  princes,  and  men  in  authority,  exerted  their  in- 


SlAM.  ^i7 

fiuence  in  behalf  xof  the  youth,  with  no  better  effect. 
The  second  king,  though  very  ill,  finding  that  the 
prince  was  about  to  suffer  a  cruel  death  for  a  common 
crime^  was  conveyed  to  the  palace,  and  succeeded  in 
averting  the  threatened  doom.  The  circumstance 
has  produced  considerable  excitement,  and  may  tend, 
in  a  measure,  to  prevent  the  prevalence  of  a  ruinous 
vice. 

December  29th. — To-day  we  are  cheered  by  some 
pleasing  facts,  which  render  it  evident  that  the 
seed  sown  in  this  wilderness  begins  to  appear.  The 
two  persons  mentioned,  as  the  increase  to  the  usual 
number  of  Sabbath  worshipers,  came  again  to-day. 
One  of  them  had  had  his  head  cut  by  a  stone  thrown 
at  him,  while  these  two  and  a  friend  were  convened 
for  reading  the  Scriptures  and  prayer.  The  house, 
they  say,  was  assailed  by  a  number  of  Siamese,  who 
were  probably  offended  at  their  departure  from  the 
heathenish  customs  of  their  neighbors.  They  were 
informed  of  the  sufferings  often  endured  by  God's  chil- 
dren, for  the  same  cause,  and  they  manifested  no  dis- 
position to  be  prevented  from  their  newly  commenced 
duties. 

In  visiting  a  sick  man,  who  is  in  a  shocking  state 
of  disease,  we  found  that  he  knew  something  of  the 
Lord,  and  professed  to  worship  him  alone.  He  was 
too  weak  to  read  himself,  but  a  neighbor  came  in,  and 
read  the  Christian  tract  to  him.  This  neighbor  had 
been  employed  as  a  carpenter,  by  us,  and  manifested 
much  intelligence  and  interest  in  his  inquiries  about 
the  Christian  religion.  Yesterday  he  was  instructed, 
at  his  own  request,  in  the  nature  of  prayer — a  subject 

22 


248  SI  AM. 

upon  which  their  previous  notions  render  the  natioit 
absurdly  ignorant.  My  teacher,  whose  own  heart  is 
hke  the  nether  millstone,  mentioned  the  case  of  a  man 
who  came  to  see  him  after  the  business  of  the  day,  to 
have  the  sacred^  books  explained.  He  said  that  the 
man  had  no  idea  how  the  Lord  of  heaven  should  be 
worshiped,  and  when  informed  of  our  Sabbath  servi- 
ces, asked  whether  he  might  attend. 

Another  striking  case  occurred  in  the  dispensary 
to-day.  While  a  lad  was  employed  in  reading  part  of 
a  Siamese  tract,  another,  of  about  eight  or  nine  years 
of  age,  who  sat  near,  repeated  some  of  it  before  him. 
I  asked  him  how  he  knew  it ;  he  replied  that  his  fa- 
ther and  mother  taught  him — that  they  read  the 
Christian  tract  every  day,  and  worshiped  the  Lord  of 
heaven.  That  there  is  some  truth  in  this,  is  evident 
from  his  own  knowledge. 

Thus  the  Lord  shows  us  that  our  labors  are  not  in 
vain,  just  at  the  time  when  my  companion  is  leaving 
the  place,  and  my  own  health  has  become  so  much  im- 
paired, as  to  unfit  me  in  a  great  measure  for  exertion, 
and  to  render  a  change  desirable,  if  not  necessary. 
How  important  that  this,  and  every  other  heathen  sta- 
tion, should  be  occupied  by  numbers,  that  when  some 
were  compelled  to  retire,  others  might  remain  to  carry 
on  the  work. 

January  2d,  1832. — The  priest  who  was  at  first  in- 
troduced to  us  by  letter,  and  who  has  called  repeatedly 
since,  came  this  evening  with  another,  who  had  also 
visited  us  previously.  They  had  heard  before  enter- 
ing the  house  that  we  both  were  going,  and  appeared 
more  than  usually  affectionate.     We   spent  all  the 


SIAM.  ^9 

evening  in  endeavoring  to  persuade  them  to  turn  from 
idols  to  the  only  living  and  true  God.  They  listened 
with  attention,  asked  many  questions — one  of  which 
was,  whether  God  disallowed  idol  worship — and  ap- 
peared more  solemn  than  we  had  seen  them  before. 
The  superior  has  a  mind  of  ready  and  comprehensive 
powers.  He  has  copied  nearly  two  of  the  Gospels, 
and  generally  understands  what  he  reads.  He  spoke 
of  the  fig  tree  which  Jesus  cursed,  and  we  endeavor- 
ed to  enforce  its  application  upon  himself  We  have 
reason  to  believe  that  he  is  convinced  of  the  folly  of 
idolatry,  and  impressed  in  some  degree  with  the  rea- 
sonableness, if  not  necessity,  of  the  Christian  religion. 
But  his  rank  is  high,  and  the  consequences  of  changing 
his  faith,  which  his  grasping  mind  no  doubt  fully 
apprehends,  will  probably  produce  a  struggle  of  soul, 
before  he  is  made  to  submit.  His  plea  for  not  being 
a  Christian,  is  ignorance.  ^  He  says  he  knows  but  lit- 
tle yet.  May  "the  fear  of  God  which  is  the  begin- 
ning of  wisdom,"  embolden  him  to  profess  Christ  be- 
fore his  perishing  countrymen. 

January. — There  is  something  in  the  beauty  of  the 
heavens  at  this  season  of  the  year,  which  makes  up 
for  the  destitution  of  every  earthly  charm,  and  exceeds 
anything  I  ever  noticed  in  other  climates.  For  many 
weeks  there  has  scarcely  fallen  a  drop  of  rain.  The 
atmosphere  during  the  day  is  so  clear,  that  the  eye 
wanders  through  the  boundless  field  of  vision,  with  a 
most  animating  range.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  glo* 
ries  of  the  morning  and  evening  twilight.  The  bur- 
nished heavens, — the  broad  rays  of  the  hidden  sun, 
shooting  up  the  wide  arch  of  the  firmament, — often  sue* 


250  SIAM. 

ceeded  by  transverse  streaks  of  the  most  delica(e  and 
varying  colors,  and  these  yielding  to  a  thousand  softer 
and  still  softer  tinges,  hold  our  eyes  and  hearts  at  the 
close  of  each  day,  in  glowing  admiration,  nntil  the 
stars  have  one  by  one  unveiled  their  glories,  and  all 
the  celestial  worlds  beam  forth  through  the  azure  with 
the  brightest  radiance.  Between  the  rains  and  the 
commencement  of  the  hot  weather — a  space  of  per- 
haps three  months — the  climate  is  delightfully  tempe- 
rate. The  summer  commences  very  early,  and  the 
beat  is  often  intense  before  the  rainy  season  begins. 

January  5th. — As  we  passed  up  the  river  this  morn- 
ing, the  gilded  temples  and  spires  of  idolatry  gleamed 
in  the  first  rays  of  the  rising  sun,  and  shed  a  luster 
on  the  scene  around  them.  Priests  in  crowds  were 
passing  about,  while  women  with  large  vessels  of  boil- 
ed rice,  and  other  provisions,  were  sitting  before  the 
doors  of  the  floating  houses,  or  in  their  boats,  measur- 
ing to  each  his  allowance.  This  finished,  they  put 
both  hands  to  their  forehead,  by  which  gesture  they 
worship  their  idols,  while  the  priest  deigns  them  no 
recognition  of  their  reverence.  We  called  upon  a  man 
in  public  office,  and  were  informed  that  the  king  is 
preparing  to  consecrate  eight  new,  and  newly  repaired 
temples.  On  the  occasion  he  throws  av/ay  avast  sum 
of  money  in  support  of  his  "royal  estate."  A  fixed  es- 
timate is  placed  upon  his  person,  his  palace,  some  of 
his  wives,  his  sons,  his  plate  and  other  articles.  Each 
distinct  sum  is  written  on  a  scrap  of  paper,  and  put 
within  a  lemon.  Some  of  them  amount  to  one  thou- 
sand dollars  a  piece.  His  majesty  ascends  an  eleva- 
ted place,  and  scatters  these  lemons  among  the  assem^ 


stAM.  251 

hied  crovvdj  and  those  who  get  them  receive  their  re- 
spective sums,  upon  presenting  the  paper.  Thus  like 
the  afflicted  at  the  pool  of  Bethesda,  the  most  needy- 
are  thrust  aside,  while  the  more  vigorous  and  less  mis- 
erable come  before  and  divide  the  spoil. 

We  passed  a  funeral  procession.  The  body  was 
placed  in  a  coffin  shaded  by  a  large  canopy.  From 
the  coffin  a  piece  of  white  cloth  was  passed  over  the 
shoulder  of  a  lad,  dressed  to  represent  an  angel,  and 
fastened  to  the  garment  of  a  priest,  sitting  near  the  bow 
of  the  boat.  By  this  means  they  say  the  priest  con- 
ducts the  deceased  to  happiness.  The  body  is  then 
taken  to  a  temple,  and  burned  according  to  the  custom 
of  the  country. 

Before  returning,  we  called  at  two  of  the  most  spa- 
cious and  magnificent  pagodas  in  the  city.  The  su- 
periority of  the  one  consists  in  the  situation  and  ar- 
rangement of  its  buildings — the  other  in  their  multipli- 
city and  magnificence.  In  entering  the  outer  court  of 
the  latter,  the  attention  is  first  arrested  by  large  im- 
ages, more  like  horses  than  any  other  animals,  and 
occupying  the  place  of  warders.  All  the  gates  are 
guarded  by  these,  and  another  class  of  still  stranger 
figures,  intended  to  represent  the  body  of  a  man,  with 
a  face  of  mixed  features — a  combination  of  man,  beast, 
and  bird — all  distorted,  and  giving  the  countenance  a 
hideous  expression.  Withm  this  outer  court,  are  a 
large  temple  and  oratory,  where  the  priests  deliver 
their  discourses,  two  or  three  high  towers  and  an  ex- 
tensive row  of  open  buildings.  Having  passed  through 
the  court,   you  enter  a  second  gate,  and  find  a  more 

22* 


252  siAM. 

spacious  area,  surrounded  by  walls  and  corridors,  and 
embellished  with  spires  of  still  larger  proportions. 

A  quadrangular  block  of  buildings  stands  in  the 
middle  of  this  area,  having  a  central  temple  on  each 
side,  and  connected  by  smaller  ranges.  We  entered 
one  of  the  large  temples,  desirous,  if  possible,  to  pass 
through  and  examine  the  interior.  A  number  of 
priests  were  stretched  upon  their  beds,  sleeping  :  oth- 
ers were  whiling  away  the  time  at  trifling  employ- 
ments, and  before  them  and  a  large  idol,  objects  of 
nearly  equal  veneration,  women  were  worshiping. 
Again  our  irreverence  was  the  subject  of  inquiry,  and 
again  we  pointed  them  to  Him  who  had  denounced 
such  abominations,  and  who  alone  is  to  be  worshiped. 
Some  were  silent  and  sullen,  and  refused  to  open  the 
inner  door.  One  who  had  perhaps  received  a  ray  of 
true  light,  helped  us  in  explaining  our  message.  Af- 
ter almost  compassing  the  buildings,  which  proved  no 
inconsiderable  walk,  we  found  an  open  door,  and  en- 
tered. The  whole  outer  range  we  had  thus  surround- 
ed, with  another  of  nearly  equal  extent,  a  few  feet 
within,  was  completely  filled  with  rows  of  gilded  im- 
ages, of  different  sizes,  and  in  different  attitudes.  The 
number  of  idols  was  variously  stated  by  the  priests, 
and  others.  Our  own  calculation  made  the  aggre- 
gate between  six  and  seven  hundred,  though  we 
could  not  have  seen  them  all,  and  none  of  the  natives 
would  admit  that  there  were  less  than  a  thousand. 
The  largest  image  was  upwards  of  thirty-five  feet 
high.  Inclosed  by  these  ranges  of  buildings  we 
found  another  court,  containing  a  number  of  tasteful 
ornaments,  of  a  pyramidal  form,  and  with  a  splendid 


temple  in  the  center.  Had  "  Holiness  to  the  Lord," 
been  inscribed  here,  this  inner  temple,  as  guarded  as 
the  "sanctum  sanctorum,"  would  have  appeared  more 
beautiful  than  any  thing  of  the  kind  we  had  ever  seen. 

While  our  eyes  were  employed  in  examining  these 
objects  of  admiration  and  horror,  our  tongues  were  ac- 
tive in  argument  with  the  priests  and  others  who  fol- 
lowed us.  The  longest  discussion  took  place  in  pre- 
sence of  the  largest  idol,  with  two  young  men,  who 
were  more  zealous  for  the  honor  of  their  gods,  than 
any  we  had  before  met.  One  of  them  insisted  that  the 
image  could  speak,  for  pointing  to  a  large  tablet  be- 
fore him,  he  said  "  all  this  was  dictated  by  him."  The 
other,  retorting  our  exposure  of  their  folly,  scornfully 
represented  the  cross,  with  his  fingers,  believing  that 
all  foreigners  were  Roman  Catholic  idolaters,  and 
plainly  showing  that  papal  abominations  had  proved 
an  offense,  even  to  these  ignorant  heathen.  We  were 
assisted  in  correcting  this  mistake — alas,  how  com- 
mon among  the  ignorant  ! — by  an  intelligent  looking 
man  of  middle  age,  who  had  evidently  received  some, 
correct  and  impressive  knowledge  of  Christianity — 
probably  from  the  books,  and  who  aided  us  in  our  ar- 
guments with  much  apparent  interest. 

In  some  of  their  temples  there  is  a  great  display  of 
paintings,  and  the  subjects  brought  together  show  the 
extreme  ignorance  and  depravity  of  the  nation.  The 
walls  of  one  of  them  which  I  visited,  were  completely 
covered  with  representations  of  heaven,  earth,  hell, 
and  one  of  the  stars  of  which  their  books  speak. 
There  were  angels,  men,  and  monkeys,  foreigners,  or 
caricatures  of  white  men,    and    dignified   natives — 


254  siam. 

scenes  of  gaiety  and  sadness — by  land  and  sea— of 
war  and  peace — with  almost  every  sketch  which  could 
be  framed  from  their  sacred  books,  or  conceived  by 
their  versatile  limners.  Such  another  chamber  of  im- 
agery I  never  beheld.  My  informant,  the  prince,  re- 
marked that  the  object  of  these  paintings  was  to  in- 
struct the  illiterate,  through  the  medium  of  their 
senses.  How  far  he  is  indebted  to  some  of  his  friends 
for  this  truly  papal  apology,  I  know  not  ;  but  that  he 
is  familiar  with  many  of  the  notions  of  the  Romish 
church,  is  quite  evident.  One  day  h^  pointed  to  the 
tower  connected  with  a  temple,  and  inquired  if  I  knew 
what  was  deposited  in  it.  I  told  him  that  J  had 
heard  that  some  of  them  contained  money.  He  re- 
plied, not  money,  but  the  bones  of  God.  I  asked  him 
how  that  was  possible,  for  God  has  no  body,  and  a 
spirit  has  no  bones.  He  answered  the  Roman  Cath- 
olics speak  of  the  bones  of  God.  I  told  him  that  the 
Roman  Catholics  in  these  countries  were  very  igno- 
rant ;  but  I  scarcely  believed  quite  so  ignorant  as  to 
speak  of  preserving  the  bones  of  God — they  must  have 
meant  the  bones  of  good  men.  O  yes,  said  he,  I 
mean  the  same  thing,  these  are  the  bones  of  good  men. 
I  am  not  certain  but  that  my  apology  was  unwarrant- 
ed, for  their  saints  hold  the  same  place  and  receive 
the  same  honors,  as  the  gods  of  the  heathen. 

The  journal  of  our  first  visit  to  Siam  closes  with 
the  last  notice.  The  greater  part  of  the  occurrences 
recorded  at  the  time,  have  been  omitted.  Enough  has 
been  extracted,  to  present  to  those  who  did  not  read 
the  journal,  some  glimpses  of  Siam  and  her  popula- 
tion,  as  well  as  some  idea  of  the  means  employed  to 


siAM.  255 

raise  them  in  the  scale  of  human  and  responsible  be- 
ings. The  most  important  inquiry  remains  to  be  an- 
swered— What  has  been  the  result  of  these  exertions 
and  favorable  appearances — how  many  "have  turned 
to  God  from  idols,  to  serve  the  living  and  true  God, 
and  to  wait  for  His  Son  from  heaven  ?"  We  answer  : 
We  know  not  that  this  has  been  the  case  with  any — 
the  time  has  been  too  contracted  to  draw  a  conclu- 
sion. A  heathen's  mind  cannot  be  enlightened  in  a 
day,  neither  is  it  reasonable  to  suppose  that  his  heart 
will  be  renovated,  until  his  judgment  is  reformed. 
The  means  which  ordinarily  lead  to  this  result  have 
not  been  employed.  We  have  done  little  more  than 
scatter  the  good  seed,  and  that  upon  ground  loaded 
with  noxious  weeds,  without  having  had  time  to  wit- 
ness its  springing,  still  less  to  cherish  it  into  lively 
strength. 

And  here  it  may  not  be  misplaced  to  caution  the 
reader  against  those  favorable,  though  false  conclu- 
sions, which  are  too  frequently  deduced  from  mission- 
ary journals.  The  difficulties  of  writing  so  as  to  in- 
form the  Christian  world  of  actual  occurrences,  and 
yet  not  to  sacrifice  a  faithful  report  to  the  dreaded 
evils  of  misinterpretation,  every  missionary  must  feel. 
The  song  of  the  ploughman  and  sower,  especially  if 
he  express  the  joyous  expectation  of  the  harvest,  is 
confounded  with  the  shouts  of  the  reaper,  and  then, 
when  the  mistake  is  discovered,  the  laborer  and  not 
the  listener  is  blamed.  We  do  not  say  that  no  mis- 
conceptions have  been  transferred  from  the  mind  of 
the  sanguine  reporter  to  his  reader ;  but  in  the  great 
majority  of  cases  where  mistakes  exist,    we   believe 


256  siAM. 

they  originate  with  the  latter.  For  instance,  when 
we  speak  of  the  avidity  with  which  the  heathen  re- 
ceive Christian  books,  the  best  motive  is  charitably 
conceded  them,  when  even  the  worst  may  have  been 
artfully  concealed.  When  their  conversation  is  de- 
tailed, they,  receive  credit  for  a  certain  amount  of 
knowledge,  which  among  Christians  is  connected  with 
their  expressed  sentiments,  but  which  their  future 
lives  prove  they  do  not  possess.  They  are  believed 
sincere,  when  they  neither  feel  what  they  say,  nor 
know  that  the  truths  they  profess  should  control  the 
heart.  Their  own  views  and  associations  of  every 
thing  sacred  are  so  opposite  to  ours,  that  without 
much  experience  and  severe  scrutiny,  we  cannot  de- 
termine the  standard  by  which  to  test  them  ;  and  even 
with  this  intimate  acquaintance  with  their  modes  of 
thought,  and  measures  of  estimate,  there  is  constant 
danger  of  being  deceived  through  the  hypocrisy  >f 
some,  and  the  self-ignorance  of  others. 

In  our  excursions  abroad,  and  in  their  visits  to  us, 
we  met  with  numbers  who  evinced  a  superficial  know- 
ledge of  the  contents  of  the  book  we  had  distributed. 
A  few  seemed  to  manifest  some  impression  of  the 
truth  upon  their  hearts.  We  had  pleasing  evidence 
that  the  spirit  of  inquiry  was  abroad  ;  but  there  were 
no  grounds  of  certainty  to  conclude  that  any  had  been 
''renewed  in  the  spirit  of  their  minds.'- 


CHAPER  XI 


Passage  to  Singapore  and  Malacca. 

January  14th,  1832. — Soon    after    midnight,    on 
Friday  last,  we  left  Bankok  and  proceeded  in  a  barge 
to   Paknam,    where   the    brig    Sebastian   was    lying. 
Capt.  D.  L.  Shaw  had  insisted  npon  our  taking  a  pas- 
sage with  him,  for  which  he  refused  all  compensation. 
Messrs.  Hunter  and  McDonald,  by  whom  the  ship  was 
chartered,  and  the  only  Europeans  in  the  place,  were 
among  oup  fellow  passengers.     We  reached  the  brig 
early  on  Saturday  morning,  and  immediately  weighed 
anchor.     In  passing  over  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Meinam,  the  hne  gave  just  as  much  water  as  the  ves- 
sel drew;  yet  nothing  occurred  to  impede  our  progress, 
and  in  a  few  hours  we  were  ploughing  our  way  down 
the  Gulf  of  Siam.     With  a  leading  wind  almost  the 
whole  passage,  and  with  no  obstacle,  apparent  danger, 
or  peculiarity  of  any  kind,  we  reached  Singapore  yes- 
terday (Friday)  morning.     I  took  up  my  abode  with 
Mr.  Thomsen,  and  Mr.  Tomlin  proceeded  to  Malacca, 
where  Mrs.  T.  is  residing. 

Singapore  is  an  important  missionary  station.     It 
contains  a  population  of  about  twenty-one  thousand 


258  SINGAPORE. 

souls,  of  whom  upwards  of  eight  thousand  are  Chi- 
nescj  and  seven  thousand  Malays.  The  remamder 
consist  of  Europeans,  (of  these,  there  are  upwards  of 
one  hundred,)  Indo-Britains,  Armenians,  Arabs,  Hin* 
doos,  Bugis,  and  Javanese.  As  a  sphere  for  missionary- 
operations,  Singapore  owes  its  greatest  value  to  its  rela- 
tive advantages.  There  is  no  other  mart  of  commerce 
so  much  frequented  by  native  vessels,  from  the  differ- 
ent kingdoms  and  islands  of  South-Eastern  Asia. 
China,  Cochin-China,  Cambojia,  Siam,  the  Malayan 
Peninsula,  on  the  continent,  and  Sumatra,  Jciva,  Bor- 
neo, Celebes,  Bali,  Manilla,  besides  many  other  islands 
farther  east,  and  numerous  places  of  less  importance, 
in  all  the  neighboring  settlements  of  the  Straits,  send 
forth  their  yearly  fleets  to  this  free  port  ;  and  return 
to  their  respective  places,  loaded  with  the  comforts, 
the  luxuries,  drugs  and  dregs  of  civilized  nations. 
Many  of  these  proas  are  from  places  which  have  nev- 
er been  frequented  by  Europeans,  and  where  there 
would  be  the  utmost  hazard  in  venturing. 

How  important  that  this  fountain  of  commerce 
should  be  supplied  with  "  the  water  of  life,"  and  made 
to  send  forth  its  rich  streams  into  the  different  and 
distant  tracts  of  heathenism  with  which  it  commu- 
nicates. 

But  like  the  other  ultra-Ganges  stations,  Singapore 
has  received  very  little  attention  from  Christian  socie- 
ties at  home.  At  present,  Mr.  Thomsen  is  the  only 
missionary  in  the  place.  Being  laboriously  engaged 
in  the  work  of  translation  and  printing — the  primary 
and  most  indispensable  business  of  a  missionary — and 
enervated,  almost  exhausted,  by  the  ravages  of  a  pro- 


SlNGAt»0{lfi»  259 

tifacled  illnessj  he  has  but  little  time  and  strength  to  at- 
tend to  the  external  duties  of  the  station, 

Singapore  is  the  great  factory  of  Malayan  publican 
tions,  and  the  depot  of  Christian  books,  in  the  common 
languages  of  the  Straits,  and  neighboring  islands.  A 
greatly  altered  version  of  the  Malayan  New  Testa* 
ment  is  nearly  completed  by  Mr.  Thomson,  and  will 
soon  be  ready  to  take  the  place  of  the  old  edition,  pre- 
pared by  the  early  Dutch  chaplains.*  Considering 
the  poverty  of  the  language,  and  the  many  disadvan- 
tages under  which Jts  translation  was  made,  the  old 
version  is  a  work  of  much  merit ;  still,  it  contains 
words  and  phrases  quite  unintelligible  to  the  reader, 
who  neither  understands  the  Arabic  vocabulary,  nor 
the  Bible  idiom.  Beside  this  important  work,  which 
is  now  partially  printed,  a  number  of  others  have  is- 
sued from  the  same  press,  and  been  extensively  circu- 
lated. There  are  at  present  three  Chinese  schools,  in 
the  place,  under  the  superintendence  of  Miss  Martin^ 
The  little  comparative  stress  laid  upon  the  mere  ac^ 
quisition  of  the  Chinese  characters,  as  well  as  the 
pains  taken  to  illustrate  the  ideas  they  convey  in  the 
native  tongue  of  the  children,  is  highly  commendable, 
and  worthy  of  universal  imitation.  A  desire  to  ac- 
quire the  language  is  their  only  inducement  to  attend, 
but  as  the  books  employed  are  all  adapted  to  convey  a 
far  more  important  knowledge,  the  great  object  of  the 
teachers  may  be  readily  gained  without  interfering 
with  that  of  the  parents  and  children. 

Formerly  there  were  two   or  three  Malay  schools, 

♦  This  edition  has  been  finished:,  and  is  now  in  circulation. 
23 


260  SINGAPORE. 

under  the  superintendence  of  Mrs.  Thomsen,  but  a 
want  of  sufficient  health  to  contend  with  the  embar- 
rassments, which  indifference,  indolence,  and  Maho- 
medanism  combined  to  produce,  has  obliged  her  to 
discontinue  her  labors  for  the  present. 

The  good  which  might  be  effected  in  Singapore  by 
education,  is  incalculable.  It  is  true  it  requires  much 
"zeal,  self-denial,  and  perseverance  in  the  teachers,  but 
if  there  were  those  who  gave  their  sole  attention  to  the 
schools,  the  obstacles  which  now  exist  would  gradu- 
ally yield,  until  the  task  became  comparatively  easy. 
The  sphere  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  ladies.  A  num- 
ber of  girl  and  infant  schools  might  be  established,  to 
the  great  advantage  of  children,  parents,  and  society 
at  large. 

The  European  population  of  Singapore  are  greatly 
favored  in  the  faithful  preaching  of  one,*  who  has 
their  eternal  welfare  at  heart,  and  whose  prayers,  and 
counsels,  and  purse,  and  heart,  and  hands  are  devoted 
to  every  cause  that  glorifies  his  Lord. 

January  29th. — We  determined  to  spend  part  of 
yesterday  among  the  Chinese.  Malays,  and  others  in 
the  town.  The  engagement  was  very  animating. 
We  soon  separated, — Mr.  Thomsen  took  the  Malays 
and  Kalings,  and  I  the  Chinese.  Wherever  we  stop- 
ped, numbers  gathered  around  us,  and  listened  to  our 
remarks,  and  received  our  books  with  the  utmost  read- 
iness. They  even  came  to  the  door  of  the  carriage 
to  solicit  tracts,  when  they  were  all  disposed  of,  and 
we  were  about  returning  home. 

♦  The  Rev.  R.  Burn. 


SINGAPORE.  261 

February  26th. — This  morning  we  took  a  number 
of  books,  in  three  of  the  most  current  languages  of  the 
Straits,  and  visited  the  southerp  and  western  shores  of 
Singapore  island.  On  the  way  we  passed  a  number 
of  boats  covered  with  small  mats,  and  inhabited  by 
a  race  of  people,  who  prefer  these  confined  prisons  to 
a  residence  on  land.  As  their  mode  of  life  is  the 
same  as  that  of  those  who  dwell  on  the  waters  in 
China,  and  tradition  says  that  the  latter  are  emigrants 
from  some  external  country,  it  is  at  least  possible, 
that  they  and  the  orang  laut,  as  these  are  called,  may 
have  had  a  common  origin.  They  live  almost  as  ir- 
rationally and  slothfully  as  the  indolent  tribes  of  beasts 
around  them.  Every  movement  seems  dictated  by 
the  necessities  of  the  day. 

We  found  a  very  thin  scattered  population  onshore, 
scarcely  any  of  whom  were  capable  of  reading.  They 
had  lately  caught  two  or  three  tigers,  of  a  huge  size, 
and  terrific  appearance.  Their  snare  is  a  large  hole, 
which  they  fill  with  water,  and  then  cover  over  with 
brush.  A  dog  is  fastened  to  the  center  of  a  narrow 
board  which  passes  over  the  pit,  and  is  made  of  such 
frail  material,  that  when  the  ravenous  animal  leaps 
upon  his  prey,  there  is  nothing  to  support  him,  and 
he  sinks  into  the  water  beneath.  In  some  places  the 
country  has  been  cleared  and  entirely  deserted.  Af^ 
ter  forming  a  settlement,  by  removing  all  the  thick  un- 
derwood, and  planting  fruit  trees,  if  a  sudden  death, 
or  something  a  little  uncommon  occurs,  they  imagine 
that  the  place  is  infested  by  a  malicious  spirit,  and 
immediately  leave  it.  We  found  a  few  Chinese  scat- 
pered  about,  where  there   were    any  advantages  fof 


S^62  MALACCA. 

making  money,  and  to  them,  and  to  all  who  conid 
read,  we  gave  books. 

March  6th,  Tuesday. — I  left  Singapore  for  Malacca 
on  Saturday,  in  one  of  the  small  vessels  plying  between 
the  two  places.  I  was  the  only  exception  to  a  crew 
and  cargo  of  Chinese,  and  natives  of  the  country.  The 
place  assigned  for  European  passengers  is  so  low  and 
crammed  with  goods,  that  I  was  obliged  to  creep  into 
it, — and  then  the  only  choice  of  posture  was  between 
lying  and  sitting.  There  was,  however,  a  free  cur- 
rent of  air,  which  is  far  more  important  in  these  hot 
regions,  than  all  other  external  comforts.  Had  the 
breeze  with  which  we  started,  continued,  twenty-four 
hours  would  have  completed  our  passage;  but  a^ we 
were  becalmed  through  the  greater  part  of  the  day, 
we  did  not  arrive  until  Monday  morning.  The  num- 
ber of  Chinese  on  board  afforded  free  exercise  for  my 
stammering  tongue,  and  rendered  the  voyage  a  season 
of  instruction  to  at  least  a  few  of  them. 

The  town  of  Malacca,  from  the  offing,  has  a  rural 
aspect.  It  stands  on  a  plain,  with  numerous  trees  in- 
terspersed among  the  houses,  though  without  any 
striking  feature.  The  most  commanding  object  in 
the  vicinity,  is  the  ruins  of  a  large  Romish  church, 
founded  by  Francis  Xavier,  which  occupies  the  princi- 
pal elevation  near  the  sea-shore.  There  is  a  small  light- 
house and  telegraphic  apparatus  upon  the  same  site, 
The  interior  of  the  country  is  diversified  with  a  few 
hills,  and  a  range  of  distant  mountains  bounds  the 
prospect. 

The  place  is  rendered  sacred  by  the  early  death  of 
two  most  useful  missionaries.     Milne  and  OpUie  ?ire 


MALACCA.  263 

names  which  shall  ever  be  remembered  among  the 
distinguished  benefactors  of  China.  Though  their  ca- 
reer was  brief,  their  labors  were  arduous,  and  the 
works  they  have  written  and  translated  into  the  Chi- 
nese language,  are  among  the  means  by  which  the  re- 
generation of  that  empire  is  to  be  produced.  Mr. 
Hughes  is  the  only  missionary  at  the  station.  Tom- 
lin  returned  with  me  from  Siam,  to  take  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  college  ;  Mr.  Kidd,  the  principal, 
having  been  obliged  to  return  to  Europe  for  the  bene- 
fit of  his  health. 

March  9th. — Malacca  boasts  a  healthful  climate,  in- 
teresting scenery,  and  pleasant  roads.  The  principal 
"  drive"  for  exercise,  is  around  a  large  Chinese  ceme- 
tery, which  stretches  over  an  irregular  surface  of 
ground,  and  incloses  two  or  three  miles  within  its 
limits.  Some  of  the  tombs  are  extensive  and  ornamen- 
tal. There  are  one  or  two  retreats  a  few  miles  from 
the  town,  along  the  sea-shore,  to  which  the  residents 
resort  for  relaxation  from  duty,  and  bodily  recrea- 
tion. 

This  evening,  attended  a  religious  meeting,  in  one 
of  the  Chinese  schools.  It  was  conducted  as  lecture 
meetings  are  in  Christian  lands,  by  prayer,  singing, 
reading,  and  exhortation.  More  than  a  dozen  China- 
men were  present,  and  gave  good  attention.  The 
place,  object,  worshipers,  and  especially  the  season,  a 
week  day  evening,  imparted  a  peculiar  interest  to  the 
occasion.  Oh  how  animating  the  prospect,  when  the 
Lord  shall  be  worshiped  in  heathen,  as  in  Christian 
lands ;  much  more  delightful,  when  "  His  will  shall 
be  done  in  earth,  as  it  is  in  heaven." 


264  MALACCA. 

March  12th. — The  Anglo-Chinese  college,  in  this 
place,  was  instituted  for  the  purpose  of  qualifying 
young  men  to  become  teachers  to  their  countrymen, 
with  the  earnest  hope  that  the  "  God  of  all  grace" 
would  sanctify  their  talents  to  himself  Among  the 
few  who  have  fully  answered  the  expectations  of  the 
missionaries,  is  Leang-Afa,  who  received  his  early  and 
lasting  impressions,  while  engaged  as  a  printer  to  this 
institution.  If  native  teachers  are  to  become  the 
chief  instruments  in  the  conversion  of  the  nations, 
schools  of  this  kind  are  probably  the  means,  by  which 
they  are  to  be  trained  for  their  office.  For  some  years 
past,  the  number  of  young  Chinese  in  the  college  has 
equaled  between  five-and-twenty  and  thirty.  The 
aim  of  the  teachers  is  to  give  them  instruction  in  the 
Christian  books,  translated  into  their  language — also 
to  teach  them  the  English,  and  advance  them  in  their 
own  literature,  All  the  Chinese  connected  in  any 
capacity  with  the  institution,  are  called  together  every 
morning  at  seven  o'clock,  for  the  reading  of  the  Scrip- 
tures, singing  and  prayer.  An  hour  later,  those  who 
do  not  understand  the  Chinese,  are  assembled  by  the 
Malay  missionary  for  the  same  purpose.  The  remain- 
der of  the  time  is  devoted  to  their  several  engage- 
ments, and  the  day  is  concluded  as  it  was  commenced. 

On  the  Sabbath,  there  is  preaching  in  the  chapel 
belonging  to  the  society,  by  both  the  missionaries,  in 
the  languages  of  their  departments.  Two  or  three 
stated  services  are  also  held  in  the  week,,  generally  in 
the  school-rooms,  where  a  small  number  assemble,  and 
the  services  are  conducted  as  the  one  described. 

Connected  with  the  college,  is  a  printing  establish- 


MALACCA.  265 

ment,  where  a  large  proportion  of  the  Christian  books 
distributed  at  the  idifferent  Chinese  stations,  is  prepar- 
ed. There  are  also  fonts  of  EngUsh  and  Arabic  type, 
the  latter  for  the  Malayan  language.  Malacca  is 
highly  and  justly  celebrated  for  the  number  of  its  na- 
tive schools.  Children  of  Chinese,  Malay,  Portu- 
guese, and  Kaling  parents  are  all  taught  in  their  re- 
spective languages,  the  truths  of  Christianity. 

There  are,  at  present,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
or  two  hundred  Chinese  boys,  belonging  to  the 
schools,  superintended  by  the  principal  of  the  college  ; 
one  hundred  Chinese  girls  under  the  instruction  of 
Miss  Wallace  ;  between  two  hundred  and  fifty  and 
three  hundred  Malay  children,  under  the  care  of  Mr. 
Hughes,  the  Malay  missionary  ;  and  about  two  hun- 
dred more,  principally  Tamul  and  Portuguese,  in 
charge  of  the  ladies  belonging  to  the  Resident's  house- 
hold, and  one  or  two  others  of  a  kindred  zeal,  who 
live  in  the  place.  These  schools,  as  the  reader  may 
infer,  afford  a  fine  sphere  for  female  usefulness.  They 
have  been  much  blessed  with  the  influence  and  effi- 
cient labors  of  active  ladies,  and  might  be  made  still 
more  extensively  beneficial,  if  they  received  the  pat- 
ronage from  abroad  which  they  require.  Alas  that 
this  should  be  the  chief  complaint,  in  every  place 
where  efforts  are  made  for  the  conversion  of  the  hea- 
then. In  every  plan  of  Christian  benevolence,  the 
missionaries  and  teachers  find  a  liberal  patron,  an  effi- 
cient coadjutor,  and  a  most  congenial  friend,  in  the 
Hon.  S.  Garling,  Resident  of  the  station. 

Since  the  writer  left  Malacca,  several  changes  have 
occurred.     Some  of  the  girls'  schools  have  been  sus- 


266  MALACCA. 

pended  for  want  of  funds,  and  two  or  three  ladies 
who  were  actively  engaged  in  teaching  have  been  re- 
moved. Mr.  and  Mrs.  Evans,  of  the  London  Mission- 
ary Society,  have  been  added  to  the  mission.  The 
former  has  taken  the  place  of  Mr.  Tomlin  in  the  An- 
glo-Chinese college,  and  Mr.  T.  has  entered  into  the 
important  work  of  teaching  the  young  on  a  more  ex- 
tensive plan,  than  had  been  pursued  before. 

It  is  highly  important,  that  female  education  in  Ma- 
lacca and  in  all  the  East,  should  be  taken  up  by  la- 
dies in  Christian  countries,  and  supported  with  the 
zeal  and  perseverance  which  the  object  demands. 
The  author  is  happy  to  state  that  a  society  for  the 
promotion  of  female  education  in  the  East  was  formed 
in  London,  in  July  1834.  The  editor  of  the  London 
edition  of  this  work  writes  in  a  note  on  this  place,  that 
"  a  grant  of  £50  (nearly  225  dollars)  has  already  been 
transmitted  to  the  Malacca  schools,  and  the  committee 
have  made  choice  of  a  lady,  in  all  respects  well  fitted 
for  the  work,  who  is  now  (March  1835)  on  the  point 
of  proceeding  thither,  to  undertake  their  superintend- 
ance.  The  committee  hope  shortly  to  send  an  agent 
to  Singapore,  and  they  believe  that  in  many  of  the 
places  mentioned  in  this  work,  schools  might  be 
established,  with  every  prospect  of  success,  were  a  suf- 
ficient amount  of  funds  placed  at  their,  disposal  to  ena- 
ble them  thus  to  extend  their  efforts." 

On  Tuesday  evening,  March  27th,  left  Malacca  in 
a  native  brig,  bound  to  Singapore,  with  such  a  num- 
ber of  fellow-passengers,  principally  Chinese,  as  at 
night  filled  the  berths,  covered  the  floor  of  the  poop- 
cabin,  occupied   nearly  all  of  the  space  below  decks. 


SINGAPORE.  267 

and  rendered  it  difficult  to  walk,  without  treading  up- 
on some  of  them.  Owing  to  calms,  opposing  winds, 
and  numerous  obstructions  on  the  uncoppered  bottom 
of  the  vessel,  we  did  not  arrive  until  Monday  morning, 
April  2d. 

When  confined  a  number  of  days,  with  the  same 
persons,  it  is  difficult,  without  a  great  command  of 
their  language,  to  comply  with  the  promptings  of  duty 
and  compassion  towards  them.  The  subject  of  Chris- 
tianity, after  being  introduced  a  few  times,  and  en- 
larged upon  sufficiently  to  teach  them  how  they  can  be 
saved,  becomes  stale,  and  requires  a  variety  of  phrase- 
ology to  place  it  in  different  lights,  and  render  it  at  all 
interesting.  One  expedient  has  been  adopted,  and  I 
believe  with  profit.  When  assembled  in  groups  for 
conversation,  of  which  they  are  very  fond,  I  have  in- 
terrupted them — offered  the  most  respectable  of  their 
number  a  Christian  book,  to  read  and  explain,  for  the 
edification  of  the  rest;  and  then  joined  the  company 
upon  the  floor,  as  an  auditor  and  occasional  prompter. 
At  these  seasons  I  have  felt  the  deepest  interest  in  in- 
terceding in  their  behalf,  and  could  not  but  hope  that 
the  plan  would  be  blessed. 

After  returning  to  Singapore,  the  writer  awaited  the 
first  opportunity  for  Siam.  During  this  interval,  he 
frequently  accompanied  Mr.  Thomsen,  in  the  distribu- 
tion of  books,  both  on  shore,  and  in  the  harbor.  The 
season  at  which  the  Chinese  visit  the  tombs,  afforded 
an  opportunity  for  much  exertion,  both  in  teaching 
them  orally  and  in  distributing  books.  All  the  junks 
from  China  were  supplied,  and  others  from  Siam, 
which  were  manned  with  Chinese  sailors. 


268  PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 

April  18th. — Last  evening  embarked  in  a  China 
junk,  for  Siam.  An  effort  was  made  to  procure  a  pas- 
sage, immediately  on  my  arrival  from  Malacca,  but  the 
captains  of  the  junks  refused  to  take  me,  from  fear  of 
incurring  the  displeasure  of  the  Siamese  king.  For 
the  present  opportunity,  I  am  indebted  to  the  kindness 
of  W.  Scott,  Esq.,  the  custom-house  officer,  who,  from 
his  situation,  has  much  influence  with  the  Chinese. 

The  junk  is  about  two  hundred  tons  burden.  In 
construction  she  is  rather  superior  to  the  majority  of 
Chinese  vessels,  presenting  a  less  stern-like,  semi-lu- 
nar bow  to  the  water,  and  consequently  being  swifter 
and  safer.  She  carries  upwards  of  forty  men,  and  has 
one  or  two  passengers  beside  myself  Mine  is  the  on- 
ly white  face  and  English  tongue  on  board.  It  will 
probably  surprise  a  western  sailor  to  learn,  that  the 
men  receive  only  about  fifteen  dollars  a  voyage,  which 
consumes  generally  from  four  to  nine  months,  and  it 
will  be  no  less  amusing  to  a  western  traveler  to  hear 
that  a  native  passenger  pays  but  four  dollars  from 
Singapore  to  Siam,  including  his  fare,  which  in  itself 
is  one,  and  at  times,  two  months'  board  and  logding. 

The  place  assigned  me,  is  a  box,  on  the  quarter- 
deck, resembling  an  oven,  and  so  straitened  in  its  di- 
mensions, that  I  am  under  the  necessity  of  creeping 
into  it,  and  then  can  sit  upright  only  upon  a  low 
trunk.  With  the  exception  of  the  captain,  who  prob- 
ably wishes  to  frighten  me  out  of  a  little  more  money, 
or  into  a  little  less  comfort  than  was  stipulated,  the 
crew  are  rudely  civil  and  obliging, 

19th. — Have  succeeded  in  changing  my  apartment 
for  another  at  its  side,  less  attractive  in  external  ap- 


PASSAaE  TO  SIAM.  269 

pearance,  but  rather  broader  and  cooler.  The  cap- 
tain has  relaxed  the  muscles  of  his  face,  and  we  are 
all  now  on  the  best  possible  terms.  It  proves  a  great 
source  of  amusement  to  them,  to  see  me  walk  the 
deck  for  exercise.  Bodily  exertion  of  any  kind  ap- 
pears to  the  minds  of  all  these  natives  to  be  incompati- 
ble with  comfort.  They  have  an  idea  that  this  ex- 
ercise must  be  a  religious  performance ;  and  when 
I  come  out  they  frequently  mention  the  number  of 
steps  and  turns  which  the  duty  demands.  I  attempt 
to  show  them,  by  disappointing  their  conjectures,  that 
this  is  the  suggestion  of  their  own  fancies.  It  re- 
quires much  presence  of  mind,  in  taking  recreation, 
not  to  interfere  with  some  of  their  strange  notions. 
They  have  an  idea,  that  walking  with  the  hands  be- 
hind the  back  is  an  ill  omen,  and  retards  the  progress 
of  the  vessel.  Other  whims,  too  numerous  and  absurd 
to  mention,  prove  rather  annoying,  where  there  is  lit- 
tle disposition  to  be  unbending  in  trifles,  and  none  to 
indulge  them  in  their  superstitions.  I  find  it  an  ex- 
cellent school  for  the  employment  and  improvement  of 
my  limited  ability  in  that  dialect  of  the  language  which 
is  of  the  most  service  in  Siam. 

2ist. — All  things  go  on  well  but  the  junk,  and  she 
reminds  one  of  a  well-saturated  log  of  wood,  in  her 
grievous,  groaining  movements.  For  the  last  forty- 
eight  hours,  it  is  doubtful  whether  we  have  made 
more  than  half  the  number  of  miles.  When  the  wind 
is  abeanij  so  great  is  the  lee-way,  that  there  is  but  lit- 
tle advantage  in  weighing  the  large  wooden  anchor. 
If  by  any  means  they  are  obliged  to  lower  the  main- 
sail, it  is  painful  to  witness  the  exertion  of  muscles  and 


270  PASSAGE  TO  SIAM. 

lungs  required  to  hoist  the  cumbrous  mat*  to  its 
place.  Two  windlasses,  one  of  which  extends  across 
the  junkj  and  the  other,  from  the  main-mast  to  the 
side,  are  put  in  requisition,  in  this  laborious  task^ 
The  Chinese  seem  determined  to  lay  their  muscles 
Under  the  least  possible  obligations  to  mechanical 
agency.  When  they  wish  to  pump  the  ship,  a  pole  is 
placed  across,  and  some  hight  above  the  hatch-way, 
to  which  a  pully  is  suspended.  At  one  end  of  the 
rope  passing  through  the  pully,  a  large  buclret  is  let 
down  and  drawn  up  by  a  number  at  the  other  end, 
while  one  or  two  are  stationed  below  to  fill  it.  The 
work  goes  on  most  cheerfully,  though  with  the  least 
show  of  subordination-^the  sailors  having  generally 
as  much  to  say  as  the  officers,  and  the  officers  as  much 
to  do  as  the  sailors. 

23d. — Last  night  the  riot  and  revel  of  idolatry  com^ 
menced.  From  the  parade  of  gongs,  gilt  paper,  and 
other  ominous  articles  with  which  I  was  familiar,  I 
was  apprised  of  their  intentions,  and  my  spirit  was 
stirred  within  me.  I  raised  my  voice — endeavored  to 
convince  them  of  their  error,  ridiculed  their  folly, 
warned  them  of  their  guilt,  tried  every  expedient ; 
but  all  in  vain.  The  gongs  and  drums  struck  up,  the 
paper  was  lighted,  and  cast  into  the  sea,  and  the  vain 
offering  quickly  and  irreverently  finished.  They  told 
me  that  the  morrow  was  the  hirth-day  of  their  god- 
dess Ma-cho-po. 

This  morning,  at  the  dawn  of  day,  the  same  ser- 
vice was  performed,  and  again  at  8  o'clock,  with  m.any 

♦The  sails  of  native  vessels  are  generally  made  of  mats. 


1?XlSSA(iE  fO  St  AM.  ^71 

J^dditional  offerings  of  flesh,  fish,  and  cake.  Again  1 
summoned  my  tongue  to  the  contest ;  but  with  no 
better  success  than  before.  Some  laughed  ;  others 
Were  angry.  The  chief  officer,  to  whose  reason  an 
tippeal  was  made,  and  whose  previous  conduct  con- 
vinced me  that  he  was  a  man  of  sense,  took  my  inter*- 
ference  in  high  dudgeon.  My  boy,  feeling  apprehen- 
sive of  the  consequences  of  denouncing  their  popular 
deity  with  such  forwardness,  came  and  begged  me  to 
desist.  I  certainly  had  no  design  to  irritate  them 
needlessly,  nor  any  fear  of  attempting  what  u  sense  of 
duty  prompted.  "What  grieved  me  peculiarly,  was 
the  office  of  a  quiet,  interesting  man,  somewhat  ad-- 
vanced  in  life,  who  had  read  the  Christian  books  in 
my  cabin,  and  who  appeared  to  comprehend  many  of 
their  truths.  Instead  of  manifesting  the  least  regard 
for  what  he  had  been  taught,  he  stood  before  the  im^ 
age,  kneeled  a  number  of  times,  and  bowed  his  hoary- 
head  almost  to  the  deck.  There  was  but  one  retreat 
from  this  affecting  scene,  and  were  it  not  for  this  re- 
fuge, the  missionary's  heart  would  often  sink  in  utter 
despondency,  beneath  the  pressure  of  his  trials.  Oh, 
how  refresliing  it  is  at  such  seasons,  to  paur  out  the 
soul  in  prayer  to  Him  who  not  only  has  the  power, 
but  has  annountjed  his  determination  to  destroy  idola^ 
try,  and  restore  His  ignorant,  rebellious  creatures  to 
Himself. 

The  conversation  on  the  subject  of  idolatry,  com^ 
menced  publicly  this  morning,  and  resumed  at  differ- 
ent times  throughout  the  day,  will,  I  sincerely  hope, 
lead  them  to  reflect  upon  the  stupidity,  as  well  as  th« 
crime,  of  worshiping  those  whom  they  acknowledge 

24 


272  PASSAGE  TO  SIAM* 

to  have  been  but  men,  and  only  the  dumb  images  of 
whom  they  thus  reverence.  One  favorite  plea  with 
them  iS;  that  different  countries  have  different  customs, 
— in  other  words,  that  fashion  is  law,  and  her  vaga- 
ries imperious.  Another  reason  which,  if  true,  would 
be  more  rational,  is,  that  those  whom  they  worship, 
though  they  were  mortals  like  themselves,  have  been 
transformed  into  gods,  as  the  reward  of  their  merit. 

As  has  been  mentioned,  one  thing  which  gives  pe- 
culiar zest  to  a  Chinaman's  sacrifice,  is  the  feast  which 
follows.  A  good  sized  porker,  preserved  many  months 
for  the  occasion,  was  slaughtered  this  morning,  and 
after  the  formal  presentation  of  part  of  it  to  the  image, 
applied  to  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  really  intend- 
ed. They  had  been  living  before  upon  rice,  salt  fisli 
and  vegetables,  and  were  prepared  to  welcome  and  en- 
joy this  temporary  change  of  diet.  A  delicate  cut  was 
very  kindly  offered  to  me,  which  I  accepted,  "  asking 
no  questions  for  conscience  sake."  Of  all  their  or- 
dinary meats,  pork  is  the  favorite  among  the  Chinese* 

May  2d.— Contrary  to  the  expectations  of  myself 
and  others,  we  were  not  out  of  sight  of  land  more  than 
twenty-four  hours.  Five  days  have  nearly  passed 
since  we  opened  the  rugged  scenery  of  Tringano  ;  and 
though  we  have  been  proceeding  with  all  sails  set,  and 
a  considerable  breeze  a  part  of  the  time,  we  have 
scarcely  succeeded  in  leaving  it  out  of  sight.  Trin- 
gano appears  to  be  a  projection  from  the  peninsula  of 
Malacca, — peculiarly  varied  in  its  general  aspect,  and 
notable  for  its  piracies.  It  is  said  that  the  rajah  is  the 
head  of  the  banditti.  I  was  by  no  means  grieved  to 
learn  that  our  vessel  is  too  large  to  invite  an  attack 


PASSAGE  TO  SIAM.  273 

from  these  desperate  marauders.  About  three  years 
ago  my  friend  and  fellow-missionary,  Medhurst,  visit- 
ed this  place  in  a  small  boat,  and  encountered  the 
most  frightful  dangers  from  pirates  on  the  way. 

The  revengeful  and  sanguinary  character  of  its  in- 
habitants he  thus  describes.  "  What  most  disgusts  and 
offends  the  eye  of  a  stranger  when  passing  through 
the  town  of  Tringano,  is  the  multitude  of  deadly  wea- 
pons which  abound  among  the  people.  Every  man 
has  a  kreise*  sometimes  two,  and  a  sword  besides, — 
with  one,  two,  and  frequently  three  spears  on  his 
shoulder ;  so  that  the  mass  of  the  people  can  do  no 
work,  having  to  carry  such  a  load  of  destructive  in- 
struments about  with  them.  The  consequence  is,  the 
men  are  all  idlers,  and  the  women  do  all  the  work. 
The  people  being  so  plentifully  armed,  quarrels  are 
very  frequent  and  murders  not  uncommon.  Imme- 
diately a  cross  word  is  given,  the  kreise  is  drawn.  If 
the  offender  endeavors  to  escape,  the  spear  is  thrown 
at  him,  and  if  that  misses,  another  is  ready,  and  fre- 
quently a  third,  to  do  the  work  effectually."  "Almost 
every  evening  one  or  another  falls  a  victim  to  these 
deadly  weapons.  No  notice  whatever  is  taken  of 
these  murders  by  the  ruling  powers,  however  numer- 
ous and  glaring  they  may  be.  The  administration 
of  justice  is  lax  in  every  respect.  The  thief  has  only 
to  restore  the  thing  stolen  and  receive  a  reprimand  ; 
but  if  he  is  caught  a  second  time  making  such  depre- 
dations, he  then  loses  a  hand  or  foot,  which  is  imme- 
diately cut  off  at  the  joint  of  the  wrist  or  ankle.  There 

•  A  weapon  resembling  a  large  dirk. 


274  PASSAGE    TO    SIAM. 

is  no  such  thing  as  flogging,  or  imprisonment;  or 
working  in  chains  ;  all  which  degrading  punishments 
the  high  spirit  of  the  Malays  would  not  brook  ;  gladly 
preferrJDg  death  in  their  stead." 

This  afternoon,  another  feat  of  idolatry  was  per- 
formed. It  was  intended  for  an  act  of  homage  to  the 
presiding  deity  of  a  hill,  opposite  to  which  we  are 
sailing.  Lamps  were  lighted,  paper  burned,  cakes 
and  fruit  spread  on  a  mat,  the  gongs  rung,  and  the 
aged  man  spoken  of  before,  bowed  his  head  a  number 
of  times  nearly  to  the  deck.  My  spirits  have  seldom 
sunk  so  low.  After  what  has  been  said,  and  what 
their  reason  assents  to,  the  noise  sounded  to  me  like 
the  knell  of  the  second  death. 

9th — ^Last  night  we  encountered  a  severe  squall. 
The  lightning,  thunder,  wind  and  rain  gave  the  scene 
a  sublimity,  which  the  hurried  confusion  and  want  of 
skill  evident  among  the  boatmen,  would  have  convert- 
ed into  terror  to  my  mind,  had  it  not  been  for  "  my 
hiding  place  and  my  shield."  When  the  squall  came 
on,  the  mate  called  for  gold  paper,  and  holding  it  up 
before  the  face  of  the  storm,  bowed,  and  threw  it  into 
the  deep.  What  particular  deity  he  was  thus  appeas- 
ing, it  would  probably  have  puzzled  his  own  imagin- 
ation to  decide. 

Last  year  it  is  said  that  thirty  or  forty  vessels  were 
lost,  on  their  return  passage  from  different  places. 
]^Iy  teacher  says,  that  seventeen  which  sailed  from  Si- 
am,  and  four  out  of  six  from  Singapore,  bound  to  Chi- 
pa,  never  arrived.  Several  hundreds  of  their  coast- 
ing vessels  are  reported  to  have  met  a  similar  destiny. 

For  two  days  we  have  been  sailing  in  the  vicinity 


PASSAGE    TO    SIAM.  275 

of  most  interesting  upland  scenery.  It  varies,  from 
the  small  mound,  through  almost  every  gradation  of 
hight  and  peculiarity  of  formation,  to  the  lofty  moun- 
tain, at  whose  feet  this  morning's  mists  were  spread 
in  delicate  fleeces,  and  whose  majestic  head  overlooks 
the  floating  clouds  which  love  to  linger  around  it. 
The  castellated  form  of  some  of  the  peaks,  rising  to  a 
considerable  perpendicular  elevation,  is  a  peculiar 
feature. 

On  the  coasts  of  the  Malayan  peninsula,  there  are 
a  number  of  native  states,  in  which,  according  to  the 
belief  of  those  who  have  visited  them,  missionaries 
might  reside  and  labor.  Some  of  these  are  subject 
to  the  king  of  Siam,  and  the  rest  under  the  govern- 
ment of  native  rajahs.  From  the  most  authentic  in- 
formation that  could  be  obtained,  both  from  the  na- 
tives themselves,  and  the  Malays  in  their  vicinity,  it 
appears  there  are  four  tribes  of  aborigines  living  in  the 
Malayan  peninsula,  and  known  by  the  name  of  Sa- 
mang,  Sakei,  Udei,  and  Rayat.  In  stature  and  fea- 
tures they  all  like  the  Malays.  The  Samang  tribe 
live  in  the  depths  of  the  forest,  and  never  come  down  to 
the  villages.  They  neither  sow  nor  plant,  but  sub- 
sist upon  the  fruits  of  the  forest,  and  the  spoils  of  the 
chase.  Their  sole  employment  is  hunting.  What- 
ever they  meet  they  kill  with  the  sumpit,  and  eat  all, 
whether  bird,  beast,  or  reptile.  Their  language  is  not 
understood  by  any  one  but  themselves.  They  lisp 
their  words,  the  sound  of  which  is  very  indistinct,^ 
more  like  the  noise  of  birds  than  the  voices  of  men. 
Thjey  have  neithec  king  nor  chief,  but  there  is  one 
whom  they  style  Puyungy  to  whom  they  refer  all 

2i* 


276  PASSAGE    TO    SIAM. 

their  requests  and  complaints,  invariably  abiding  by 
his  decision.  They  have  no  religion,  no  priests,  and 
no  ideas  whatever  of  a  Supreme  Being,  the  creation  of 
the  world,  the  soul  of  man,  sin,  heaven,  hell,  angels, 
or  a  day  of  judgment..  The  Puyung  instructs  them 
in  matters  relating  to  ghosts,  evil  spirits,  and  sorcery, 
by  the  belief  of  which  they  are  all  influenced.  They 
never  quarrel  nor  go  to  war  with  another  tribe.  When 
one  of  the  Samang  tribe  dies,  the  head  only  is  buried.; 
the  body  is  eaten  by  the  people,  who  collect  in  large 
numbers  for  that  purpose. 

The  aborigines  were  originally  one  tribe  only,-— 
known  in  Malacca  by  the  name  of  Jakon  ;  from  them 
sprang  the  Sakei,  Udei,  and  Rayat.  The  four  tribes 
are  much  alike,  and  speak  the  same  language, 
though  they  keep  distinct.  Three  of  them  cultivate 
the  ground,  trade  in  the  neighboring  villages,  and  bury 
their  dead.  The  bark  of  trees  furnishes  them  with 
clothing,  the  roots  and  leaves  with  medicine,. and  the 
branches  and  foliage  with  shelter  for  the  night. 
They  are  entirely  ignorant  of  their  own  history,  nei- 
ther knowing  whence,  nor  how,  nor  when  they  came 
to,  the  country.* 

10th. — To-day  a  new  feast  of  idolatry,,  at  least  new 
to.  me.  A  raft  of  bamboos  was  prepared,  which  they 
almost  filled  with  gold  and  silver  paper.  This  they 
let  down  into  the  sea,  and  then  fired  the  paper,  amid 
the  noise  of  the  gong,  the  solemn  antics  of  the  old 
man,  and  the  offering  of  a.  variety  of  eatables,  some  of 


*  These  extracts  are  from  a  small  sheet  published  in  the  straits  of 
Malacca,  some  tim?  ^igo. 


PAj^A-GE    TO    SIAM.  277 

which,  with  less  thaatheir  usual  wisdom,  were  thrown 
iato  the  water. 

i4th.— liast  night  we  cast  anchor  outside  of  the  ban, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Meinam  ;  and  now  we  are  waiting 
for  dispatches  fr6m  the  owner  at  Bankok.  Notwith- 
standing the  rigid  laws  of  the  kingdom  against  the 
importation  of  opium,  and  the  rank  and  office  of  the 
person  to  whom  the  junk  belongs,  we  have  a  quantity 
on  board,  which  will  no  doubt  detain  uSy  until  safely- 
smuggled  on  shore.  The  weather  is  very  oppressive. 
Scarcely  a  breath  of  air  finds  its  way  into  my  apart- 
ment, while  the  sun  beats  upon  it  with  his  fiercest 
rays.  We  find  ourselves  greatly  favored,  notwith- 
standing the  apparent  dullness  of  our  daily  progress. 
Two  junks  came  to  anchor  shortly  after  we  arrived, 
one  of  which  sailed  a  month,  and  the  other  half  a 
month  before  us.  The  last  mentioned  one  refused  to 
take  me, — another  instance  of  the  Lord's  kindness  in 
disappointing  our  plans. 

Thus  closes  the  passage.  I-  have  seldom^  if  ever, 
been  so  much  impressed  with  the  degradation  of  the 
heathen,  as  during  the  month  spent  on  board  this  junk. 
How  striking,  how  total  the  change  which  the  Gospel 
of  Jesus  makes  in  a  rational  mind !  In  fact,,  no  mind 
is  rational,  until  restored  to  its  original  harmony  by 
the  influence  of  the  Gospel.  The  condition  of  the 
heathen,  i&  more  deplorable  than,  that  of  many  ma- 
niacs in  Christian  lands ;  for  these  may  have  lucid 
intervals.  They  are  sunk  below  the  brutes,  for  their 
apprehension  of  things  is  correct  as  far  as  it  goes. 
They  are  beneath  the  very  stock  and  stone  they  wor- 
ship, for  these  cannot  mistake  their  worshipers  for 


278  PASSAGE    TO    SIAM. 

dead  men, — while  their  worshipers  madly  confound 
them  with  the  living.  Let  those  who  say  there  are 
no  advantages  in  the  Christian  religion,  come  forth 
and  look  upon  these  heathen.  Civilization^— if  that 
which  has  not  a  true  religion  for  its  basis  merits  the 
name, — has  been  exerting  its  influence  for  centuries, 
among  the  nation  to  which  this  crew  belongs.  And 
yet  what  do  they  know  ?  All  that  they  behold  in  cre- 
ation,— all  that  they  witness  in  providence, — all  that 
their  reason  can  suggest, — does  not  lead  them,  neither 
did  it  their  sages,  to  the  obvious  conclusion,  that  there 
is  one  Supreme  Being.  In  regard  to  the  object  of  the 
present  life,  the  realities  of  the  future,  and  every  thing 
relating  to  their  eternal  interests,  no  frenzied  imagina- 
tion could  be  wilder.  And  this  ignorance  extends  not 
only  to  the  most  important  of  all  truths,  but  also  to 
the  most  simple  subjects  of  worldly  science.  Of  his- 
tory, geography,  astronomy,  philosophy,  medicine,  all 
of  which  they  profess  to  understand,  they  know  but 
very  little ;  and  the  influence  of  that  little  is  nullified 
by  the  mass  of  errors  with  which  it  is  mixed  up.  I 
sincerely  hope  that  the  mode  and  frequency  of  social 
worship,  and  the  observance  of  the  Sabbath  which 
they  have  witnessed,  together  with  the  books  distribu-- 
ted,  and  our  frequent  conversations,  may  be  blessed  to 
the  eternal  welfare  of  some  of  these  ignorant,  though 
amiable  men.  Four  of  us  have  daily  crowded  into 
my  little  den,  and  regularly  maintained  a  morning  and 
evening  service.  It  has  been  a  source  of  frequent  re- 
gret, that  there  was  no  place  on  board  sufficiently  spa- 
cious to  accommodate  more,  where  the  noise  and  bus- 


PASSAGE    TO    SIAM.  279 

tie  were  not  so  great  as  to  prevent  the  performance  of 
religious  exercises. 

16th. — Still  at  anchor.  A  number  of  Chinese  junks 
returning  to  the  empire,  and  smaller  ones  passing  to 
and  from  the  Meinam,  give  much  life  to  the  scene.  It 
is  said  there  are  upwards  of  eighty  vessels  trading  be- 
tween China  and  Siam  this  season.  Beside  the  exer- 
cise of  patience,  it  affords  a  favorable  opportunity,  as 
the  eye  ranges  over  a  part  of  this  heathen  kingdom,  to 
reflect  upon  the  nature  and  dreadful  responsibility  of 
the  missionary  work,  under  existing  circumstances. 
Were  it  not  for  the  promise  of  sufficient  grace,  and 
the  constant  intercessions  of  the  Advocate  with  the 
Father,  the  mind  would  recoil  from  the  contempla- 
tion, and  if  it  could  not  bury  itself  in  forgetfulness, 
would  lie  down  in  despair.  And  why  should  one  be 
left  to  attempt  that  alone,  which  devolves  upon  many, 
as  an  equal  duty,  and  which  demands  the  united  la- 
bors of  a  host  ?  Can  the  unwillingness,  or  even  the 
deepest  sense  of  unfitness  to  come  up  to  the  help  of  the 
Lord,  release  any  from  the  obligation  imposed  by  the 
Savior's  command  ?  i^xalted,  though  neglected  Sav- 
ior, arise  and  plead  thine  own  cause  ;  then  shall  the 
heathen  be  saved. 

19th,  Friday. — After  a  detention  of  three  days,  be- 
fore the  owner  could  receive  information  of  our  arrival, 
and  the  opium  could  be  transferred  to  vessels  better 
adapted  for  smuggling,  we  weighed  anchor,  and  enter- 
ed the  Meinam.  With  a  fresh  and  free  breeze,  we 
soon  reached  Paknam,  which  is  the  post  of  the  first 
revenue  officer.  To  this  town  the  river  is  lined  with 
a  thick  junglcj  with  no  cleared  spots,  and  with  but;  ono 


280  PASSAGE    TO    SIAM. 

or  two  fisherman's  huts  along  the  shore.  The  follow- 
ing morning  a  number  of  government  officers  came 
on  board,  and  after  drinking  tea,  and  disputing  with 
the  captain  some  time  about  the  amount  of  presents 
(more  properly  bribes)  each  should  receive,  they  bore 
away  their  fardels,  and  left  us  to  proceed.  They  did 
not  know  but  that  every  box  on  board,  except  one  of 
mine  which  attracted  their  curiosity,  and  every  part 
of  the  ship,  except  the  most  exposed  places,  were  stow- 
ed with  contraband  goods. 

To  a  stranger,  the  curiosity  of  the  Siamese,  and 
country-born  Chinese,  appears  very  childish.  While 
I  was  sitting  and  conversing  with  one  of  them,  two  or 
three  were  behind  me,  examining  my  dress,  and  lifting 
up  the  outer  garment  to  see  the  texture  and  number 
of  those  within,  Their  cupidity  is  as  annoying  as 
their  curiosity  is  amusing.  Their  ideas  of  beneficence 
are  limited  to  deeds  of  alms-giving, — principally  the 
support  of  the  priests  ;  and  when  one  of  them  of  some 
rank,  heard  that  I  was  engaged  in  labors  of  t>enevo- 
lence,  he  gave  me  no  rest,  with  his  unwearied  impor- 
tunity,— first  begging  for  what  caught  his  eyes,  and 
then  for  money.  That  I  should  have  come  to  Siam, 
without  the  expectation  or  desire  of  amassing  wealth, 
— merely  to  teach  them  about  the  God  of  heaven,  and 
give  them  books  and  medicine,  was  so  incredible  to 
those  who  had  heard  little  of  the  missionaries  before, 
that  they  would  repeat  the  same  question  about  my 
object  in  coming,  as  though  the  reply  they  uniformly 
received  was  too  absurd  to  claim  a  moment's  remem- 
J)rance. 

After  the  morning  scene  closed,  and  the  tide  favor« 


PASSAGE    TO    SIAM.  281 

ed,  we  proceeded  up  the  river,  doubtful  whether  we 
should  be  able  to  pass  the  situation  of  another  custom- 
house officer,  about  twelve  miles  further,  witliout  some 
detention.  The  officer  did  not  even  board  us.  Here, 
as  at  Paknam,  are  batteries  on  each  side  of  the  river, 
one  of  which  is  very  extensive,  with  a  collection  of 
native  huts  in  their  vicinity.  On  Friday  morning,  I 
left  the  jnnk  at  anchor  a  few  miles  below  Bankok,  and 
came  in  a  small  boat  to  the  house  of  our  former  pat- 
ron and  friend,  Mr.  Silveira. 


CHAPTER  XIL 


SIAM. 


My  second  residence  in  Siam  consumed  between 
fiv^e  and  six  months.  The  object  which  hastened  my 
departure  from  the  Straits,  before  there  could  be  a  ra- 
tional hope  of  the  restoration  of  health,  was  the  sup- 
plying of  the  Chinese  junks,  about  returning  to  the 
empire,  with  Christian  books.  It  appeared  so  doubt- 
ful whether,  even  if  I  remained  longer  at  Singapore,  I 
should  not  be  eventually  compelled  to  try  a  change 
to  a  cold  climate,  that  I  felt  determined,  rather  to  haz- 
ard the  experiment  upon  my  health,  than  to  suffer  an 
opportunity  of  such  extensive  usefulness  to  pass  unim- 
proved. With  the  blessing  of  the  Lord,  striking,  and 
encouraging  in  many  respects,  I  arrived  in  time  to  fur- 
nish about  fifty  junks,  bound  for  China,  and  Hainam, 
its  dependency,  with  the  Scriptures  and  Christian 
books.  The  delay  of  a  week  would  have  lessened 
this  number  materially.  Nearly  thirty  had  already 
sailed,  and  the  rest  were  hastening  away  with  the 
greatest  dispatch.  The  mornings  and  evenings  of 
nearly  three  weeks  wera  thus  employed,  at  the  close 
of  which  time  a  return  of  debility  confined  me  to  in- 

25 


284  siAM. 

door  labors,  and  even  these  received  but  a  superficial 
attention. 

The  most  hopeful  circumstance,  concerning  the  mis- 
sion, is  the  number  of  attendants  upon  our  Sabbath 
services.  For  the  greater  part  of  the  time,  between 
twelve  and  twenty  Chinese  have  been  present, — few  in- 
deed, contrasted  with  the  myriads,  who  cling  with 
madness  to  their  idols,  but  encouraging  when  com* 
pared  with  the  past.  Our  auditory  has  been  gradu- 
ally increased  by  a  species  of  management,  which,  had 
I  remained,  would  probably  have  swelled  it  to  a  large 
congregation.  In  conversing  with  the  numerous  ap- 
plicants for  medicine,  I  told  such  as  I  thought  could 
well  attend,  of  our  Sabbath  services,  and  appointed 
that  day  and  hour  for  them  to  come  for  a  fresh  supply 
of  medicine.  Many  who  commenced  their  attend- 
ance through  these  means,  became  too  much  interest- 
ed in  their  new  pursuit  to  discontinue.  Beside  this, 
about  half  a  dozen  have  enjoyed  the  benefit  of  daily 
worship  and  catechetical  instruction.  The  effect  has 
been,  that  the  majority  have  had  their  ideas  on  the 
doctrines  of  Christianity  greatly  enlarged,  and  a  few 
have  manifested  such  a  power  of  the  truth  upon  their 
hearts,  as  I  sincerely  hope  may  prove  to  them  the 
dawn  of  an  eternal  day.  These  have  rejected  their 
idols,  and  established  the  daily  worship  of  the  true 
God. 

I  have  not  ventured  to  baptize  any,  and  consequent- 
ly denominate  none  of  them  converts.  The  most 
hopeful  have  lived  too  far  to  bring  them  under  such  a 
course  of  instruction  as  seems  important,  where  the 
mind  is  just  emerging  from  gross  darkness,  and  where 


siAM.  285 

the  light  itself  shines  so  dimly.  I  expected  soon  to 
leave  the  place,  and  feared  that  a  change  of  circum- 
stances might  produce  a  change  in  their  impressions 
and  conduct;  and  what  was  more  controlling  to  my 
own  judgment,  1  knew  that  if  they  were  the  children 
of  God,  they  would  remain  such — if  not,  the  adminis- 
tration of  this  rite  might  prove  a  source  of  delusion  to 
their  own  minds,  and  of  scandal  to  those  around 
them.  The  person  who  was  baptized  by  my  prede- 
cessor, GutzlafF,  appears  to  know  the  truth  in  the  love 
of  it.  He  has  renounced  all  the  absurd  notions  and 
customs  sanctioned  by  their  religious  creeds,  and 
blended  with  the  renown  of  their  ancient  moralists — an 
evidence  of  mental  renovation,  which  can  be  estima- 
ted only  by  those  who  know  how  the  Chinese  plume 
themselves  upon  the  parade  of  this  knowledge,  and 
with  what  difficulty  they  are  made  to  abandon  it  as 
absurd. 

The  Siamese  were  much  more  reserved  than  be- 
fore, probably  at  the  suggestion  or  command  of  those 
who  begin  to  open  their  eyes  upon  the  consequences 
of  intercourse  with  us,  and  tremble  for  the  doom  of 
their  gods  and  temples.  A  fabric  of  idolatry,  so  ex- 
tensive and  consolidated  as  the  prevailing  religion  of 
Siam,  based  upon  the  interests  of  a  vast  body,  quite  a 
nation  of  priests,  supported  by  the  superstition,  the 
pride,  and,  of  course,  the  power  of  the  kings,  the 
princes  and  the  whole  community,  cannot  be  expect- 
ed^ even  to  totter  upon  the  application  of  so  slight  a 
force  as  we  have  brought  to  bear  against  it.  This 
remark  is  made  to  guard  against  the  impression  of 
many;  that  the  ruling  powers  of  Siam,   and  the  com- 


286  SIAM. 

munity  at  large,  are  rather  patrons  than  opposers  of 
Christianity.  However  favorably  the  few  who  con- 
templated the  subject  may  have  received  it  when  it 
was  novel,  and  a  matter  of  curious  inquiry,  yet  that 
was  not  the  time  of  trial. 

The  power  of  the  truth  in  pulling  down  strong 
holds  without,  their  venerated  temples  and  idols,  and 
the  still  stronger  holds  within,  even  all  their  sacred 
associations,  and  deep-rooted  habits,  had  not  been  ex- 
perienced nor  understood.  Neither  do  I  believe- it 
yet  known,  except  to  a  very  limited  extent,  although 
there  appears  to  have  been  suspicions  in  the  minds  of 
a  few,  of  the  object  and  probable  tendency  of  our  la- 
bors in  the  kingdom. 

The  medical  department  commenced  with  the  mis- 
sion is  v/ell  adapted  to  the  place.  It  is  calculated  to 
give  influence  to  the  missionary,  if  successful  in  his 
practice.  It  attracts  many  from  different  and  distant 
parts,  to  whom  we  could  otherwise  have  no  possible 
access.  It  affords  an  opportunity  for  instructing  those 
who  come,  and  lays  them  under  such  obligations  as 
can  be  employed  in  securing  both  their  attention  to 
your  remarks,  and  their  attendance  upon  the  establish- 
ed ordinances  of  religion.  But  this  charity  is  dicta- 
ted by  a  regard  to  the  welfare  of  this  life,  as  well  as 
of  the  life  to  come.  The  most  common  complaints 
are  those  which  yield  readily  to  our  applications,  but 
whose  permanent  cure  baffles  the  skill  of  the  natives, 
and  resists  the  power  of  all  their  medicines. 

The  Chinese  doctors,  with  the  wisdom  which  dis- 
tinguished our  own  ancestors,  mix  up  as  many  as 
sixty  or  seventy  different  ingredients  in  one  dose,     Ig 


rrorant  of  chimical  affinities  and  changes,  they  imagine 
that  out  of  all  the  articles  which  make  up  the  com- 
pound, some  one  will  probably  have  the  desired  effect. 

The  following  are  a  few  extracts  from  the  journal 
kept  at  the  time. 

21st. — A  busy  day.  Great  numbers  for  books. 
More  than  I  remember  ever  to  have  seen  before.  They 
were  principally  Hainam  men,  from  a  vessel  which 
they  are  building  in  our  neighborhood.  This  after- 
noon commenced  visiting  the  China  junks,  to  supply 
them  with  the   Scriptures,  and  other  religious  books. 

Having  a  letter  to  the  captain  of  the  port,  who  acts 
as  interpreter  between  foreigners  and  the  Prah  Klang, 
I  called  at  his  house,  and  was  informed  that  the  king 
had  commanded  his  officers  to  prohibit  me  from  dis- 
tributing the  books,  which  he  had  heard  I  brought 
with  me.  "  If  we  wanted  to  disseminate  our  religion," 
his  majesty  remarked,  "  we  must  go  to  some  other 
country."  A  number  of  considerations  prevented  a 
change  in  my  plans,  and  looking  for  wisdom  to  Him 
in  whose  hand  are  the  hearts  of  kings,  I  went  from  the 
interpreter's  house  to  the  great  business  on  which  I 
came  forth.  In  four  of  the  five  junks  visited,  the 
books  were  well  received.  Occasionally  you  meet 
with  those  who  are  full  of  all  suspicion,  and  with 
whom  little  can  be  done: 

22d. — Arose  early,  and  went  on  board  of  four  junks. 
In  the  first  I  met  with  a  man  who  appeared  not  only 
friendly,  but  acquainted,  at  least  to  some  extent,  with 
the  true  God  and  his  redeeming  Son.  After  a  little^ 
conversation,  he  said  he  was  a  Kelesetan^  [Christian,, 
according   to  his    pronunciation,]    belonging   to    the 

2&* 


288  s'lAM. 

island  of  Hainam — that  there  were  three  or  four  Pa- 
dres, and  about  three  thousand  native  Christians  [Pa- 
pists] on  the  island.  It  confirms  the  account  that  I 
had  previously  received  respecting  the  Catholics  hav- 
ing retained  a  considerable  footing  there,  when  expel- 
led from  China.  I  gave  him  the  Scriptures,  and  a 
number  of  other  books,  some  of  which  he  promised  to 
carry  to  his  friends'  of  the  same  profession  at  home. 
From  his  unreserved  manner,  he  could  scarcely  have 
suspected  that  there  was  any  difference  between  me 
and  his  own  priests,  although  he  said,  in  reply  to  a 
question  on  the  subject,  that  they  did  not  distribute 
the  Scriptures  in  the  Chinese  language. 

Have  been  again  somewhat  troubled  with  the  con- 
firmation of  yesterday's  report.  Mr.  Silveira  having 
business  with  the  acting  Prah  Klang,  was  informed 
that  the  king  had  really  said  the  books  must  not  be 
distributed  in  his  kingdom.  Mr.  S.  thinks,  and  with 
much  reason,  that  the  priests  are  taking  the  alarm, 
and  employing  their  influence  with  the  king  to  pre- 
vent their  downfall.  I  think  I  never  enjoyed  the  se- 
cond psalm  so  much  as  to-day* 

June  12th.~Since  the  last  date,  I  have  been  em- 
ployed, early  and  late,  in  visiting  about  fifty  junks. 
With  a  very  few  exceptions,  the  book's  have  been 
thankfully  received,  and  the  instructions  and  exhorta- 
tions have  been  heard  with  attention,  I  hope  with  pro- 
fit. Some  days  the  engagement  has  been  delightful. 
Everywhere  the  most  hearty  welcome  was  given,  and 

♦  The  king's  officers  admitted  that  it  did  not  interfere  with  his  ma- 
jesty's command  to  supply  the  Chinese  junks  with  books,  though  I  nei- 
ther promised  or  intended  to  conftae  Enyself  to  them. 


SIAM.  280 

at  times  the  noisy,  though  respectful  salutation  of  the 
gong  has  been  added.  Often  has  it  been  cheering  to 
witness  the  readiness  with  which  the  most  important 
doctrines  of  Christianity  were  comprehended,  and  ani- 
mating has  been  the  assurance  that  "our  labor  is  not 
in  vain  in  the  Lord."  Oh,  how  easy  is  the  conversion 
of  a  fallen  world  to  the  power  of  Omnipotence.  This 
is  our  dependence — and  here  we  rest ;  and  our  con- 
stant and  only  aim  should  be  to  have  Jehovah  make 
bare  his  arm  in  this  glorious  work. 

June  25th. — Attention  lately  confined  to  in-door  la- 
bors. Among  the  numerous  patients  were  two  most 
pitiable  objects.-  One  of  them  was  speechless,  and 
unable  to  walk  from  paralysis  ;  but  so  sensitively  alive 
to  his  miserable  condition,  that  he  wept  in  anguish  at 
the  probability  of  never  being  restored.  Even  if  re- 
lief was  within  the  efficacy  of  medicine  and  the  skill 
of  the  practitioner,  they  have  not  sufficient  patience  to 
be  healed.  Often  have  they  come  with  inveterate  dis- 
eases, and  though  they  have  been  forewarned  of  the 
consequences  of  not  repeating  their  calls,  yet  from  not 
being  healed  immediately,  they  have  lost  their  faith  in 
the  remedy,  and  never  applied  again. 

The  most  trying  circumstance  of  the  past  week,  and 
one  which  has  called  forth  many  a  sigh,  is  the  con- 
duct of  the  boy,  who  had  been  with  me  for  nearly  a 
year,  and  who  I  hoped  had  passed  from  death  unto 
life.  He  had  been  addicted  to  intemperance  before  he 
entered  our  service,  but  had  appeared  for  a  long  time 
perfectly  reformed.  While  with  me  at  Singapore,  he 
was  associated  in  the  family  in  which  I  lived,  with  a 
profligate  fellow  servant^  whom  I  have  heard  him 


290  SIAOT. 

warn  against  the  evil  consequences  of  dissipation,  hvtt 
who  seduced  him  into  the  very  crimes  he  had  himself 
so  solemnly  condemned.  Before  I  suspected  the  least 
misdemeanor,  his  conduct  had  become  so  offensive  to 
the  public,  that  I  was  compelled  to  dismiss  him  imme- 
diately from  my  service.  I  know  of  nothing  more 
painful  to  a  missionary's  heart  than  an  event  of  this 
kind.  Those  who  have  followed  to  the  grave  a  cher- 
ished child — one  who  was  their  solace  in  loneliness, 
and  their  hopo  in  coming  years,  may  form  some  idea 
of  this  trial.  But  no  !  what  is  a  bodily  pang,  a  tem- 
porary separation,  to  spiritual,  eternal  wretchedness.  To 
see  the  '•  rulers  of  darkness"  recapture  those  who  we 
hoped  had  been  wrested  from  their  dominion,  and  to 
find  the  gloom  of  the  second  death  closing  upon  those 
who  we  fondly  believed  had  emerged  into  light,  pro- 
duce, for  the  moment,  something  of  the  agony  which 
belongs  to  the  destiny  of  the  lost. 

July  7th. — Several  circumstances  have  rendered  the 
week  one  of  more  than  ordinary  interest.  Among 
these,  was  a  visit  from  two  men  for  books,  who  had 
obtained  some  notion  of  the  true  God,  and  the  ques- 
tions of  one  of  whom  manifested  a  strong  conviction 
of  the  credibihty  of  the  Christian  religion.  The  poor 
man,  when  inquiring  about  the  manner  of  divine  wor- 
ship, was  confounded  at  every  step.  To  worship  with- 
out images,  pictures,  inscriptions  of  any  kind,  without 
incense  sticks,  offerings  of  eatables,  or  any  of  those 
rites  with  which  every  thing  sacred  is  associated  in  his 
mind,  was  more  than  he  could  readily  digest.  Some 
of  them  exhibit,  when  you  talk  to  them,  the  wonder 
of  children  in  hearing  a  marvelous  tale;     The  great 


SIAM.  291 

Deceiver  has  persuaded  them  that  the  right  exercise 
of  the  heart  is  a  secondary,  and  quite  an  unimportant 
matter  in  sacred  duties. 

Yesterday  the  man  whom  Gutzlaff  had  baptized 
called  for  the  first  time.  He  had  been  absent  to  Co- 
chin-China  and  China,  and  had  discovered  from  more 
than  mere  observation,  that  notwithstanding  the  sim- 
ilarity of  name,  our  doctrines  and  those  of  the  Papists 
were  v^ery  different.  He  said  they  would  not  acknow- 
ledge him  in  Amooy,  although  he  confessed  himself  a 
disciple  of  Jesus,  and  showed  his  credentials,  no  doubt 
with  a  very  different  expectation.  That  idol  which 
they  adored,  and  the  strange,  unintelligible  mode  of 
their  worship,  were  quite  as  offensive  to  him,  as  his 
knowledge  of  the  Savior,  and  ignorance  of  their  abom- 
inations, were  to  them. 

Have  been  visited  three  or  four  times,  by  two  of 
the  interesting  Chinese,  spoken  of  in  a  previous  part 
of  this  journal.  They  came  expressly  for  divine  wor- 
ship, and  would  repeat  their  visits  more  frequently, 
were  it  not  for  the  distance  of  their  residence  from  us. 
This  morning  they  brought  an  acquaintance  with 
them,  who  had  some  knowledge  of  the  books,  and  who 
cheerfully  engaged  with  us  in  our  usual  service.  Our 
friends  had  been  rather  beforehand  in  their  reckon- 
ing, having  mistaken  this  day  (Saturday)  for  the  Sab- 
bath. The  elder,  with  all  his  other  good  qualities,  is 
the  personification  of  Chinese  politeness — the  other  is 
too  modest  and  retiring  to  exhibit  what  his  kind  heart 
dictates, 

17th.  —Passing  down  the  river  yesterday  evening, 
we  saw  a  collection  of  persons  assembled  in  two  or 


292  siAM. 

three  places,  attending  to  the  discourses  of  the  priests. 
At  one  of  the  houses  where  we  stopped  a  few  mo- 
ments, an  old  spectacled  Talapoin  was  seated  on  a 
platform,  preaching  to  an  assembly,  principally  of  wo- 
men, who  listened  in  the  reverential  posture  of  Siam — 
sitting  with  their  feet  concealed,  and  their  hands  rais- 
ed to  the  level  of  their  faces.  The  dull  monotony  of 
the  old  man's  chant  is  usually  relieved  by  a  timely  in- 
terlude of  music,  though  we  did  not  stop  to  witness 
this  part  of  the  performance. 

The  present  month  is  the  commencement  of  the 
Prassah — the  longest  sacred  season  in  the  year,  con- 
tinuing for  three  successive  months.  Tt  is  observed 
in  commemoration  of  the  time  that  Sonmahkodom* 
the  last  incarnation  of  Buddh,  disappeared  from  this 
world.  They  say  that  he  left  three  impressions  of 
his  feet  on  earth — one  in  Siam,  another  in  Burmah, 
and  a  third  in  Ceylon.  Pilgrimages  are  frequently 
made  to  the  vestige  visible  in  the  hill-country  of  Siam, 
and  are  considered  as  meritorious  by  these  idolaters  as 
is  a  visit  to  the  holy  city  of  the  Jews,  the  Mahome- 
dans,  or  the  Catholics,  by  their  respective  devotees. 
During  this  protracted  season,  the  priests  are  kept 
most  busily  engaged.  Every  day  there  is  service  at 
the  place,  at  the  mansions  of  many  of  the  principal 
men  in  the  kingdom,  and  frequently  at  the  houses  of 
the  common  people.  This  service  is  maintained  at 
the   place  throughout  the    year.     The  night  which 

*  According  to  tradition,  the  brother  of  Somriahkodom,  a  great  mal- 
efactor, was  crucified  for  his  crimes.  I  have  been  asked  whether  he 
and  Jesus  were  not  the  same.  The  devil  would  no  doubt  have  it  be- 
lieved, according  to  siimilar  attempts,  (e.  g.  the  Philippian  damsel)^ 
that  Christ  and  this  infamous  character  were  one. 


SIAM.  203 

closes  the  Prassah  is  a  season  of  many  ceremonies 
and  much  noise.  Guns  are  fired  from  the  forts  sur- 
rounding the  city,  at  short  intervals,  until  morning, 
after  which,  for  a  long  time,  lamps  are  suspended  up- 
on high  poles,  by  all  who  can  afford  the  expense. 
The  object  of  the  noise  is  to  frighten  the  evil  spirits 
from  these  precincts — the  lights  are  to  prevent  the  re- 
turn of  these  dreaded  genii. 

Other  means  are  employed  by  the  priests  for  the 
same  purpose.  They  often  surround  a  place,  from 
which  they  wish  to  debar  their  invisible  enemies,  with 
a  thread,  which  by  their  incantatory  powers  they  im- 
agine can  render  an  impassable  barrier.  The  whole 
walled  city  is  thus  guarded.  Even  human  bodies  are 
believed  to  be  secured  from  demoniacal  possessions  by 
the  same  means.  It  is  strange  but  true,  that  similar 
methods  are  employed  by  the  priests  in  taking  aliga- 
tors  when  they  appear  in  the  river,  and  according  to 
the  uniform  testimony  of  spectators,  they  prove  gene- 
rally successful.  In  statements  of  this  kind,  and  ma- 
ny others  equally  credible,  I  have  been  at  a  loss  what 
to  believe.  If  the  priests  are  not  assisted  by  the  spi- 
rits whom  they  profess  to  control,  they  must  possess 
all  their  power,  or  they  never  could  impose  upon  such 
a  variety  of  witnesses. 

Before  we  reached  home,  my  ears  were  shocked  by 
an  oath  in  English  from  one  of  the  heathen  boys,  who 
was  assisting  to  propel  the  boat.  It  was  the  only 
phrase  he  uttered  in  the  language,  and  in  all  proba- 
bility the  only  one  he  knew.  It  reminded  me  of  a 
similar  expression  which  I  had  heard  from  one  of  an- 
other nation,  residing  in  Siam,  and  who  manifested  no 


294  siAM. 

other  acquaintance  with  the  Enghsh  language  than 
this  offensive  sentence.  The  language  of  cursing, 
and  the  habit  of  brandy  drinking,  are  considered  in 
many  heathen  nations  as  characteristic  of  Christians.* 

31st. — Yesterday  afternoon  the  prince  Chow  Fah\ 
sent  for  me  to  dine  at  his  house.  The  message  was 
committed  in  such  a  manner,  or  to  such  a  messenger, 
as  would  admit  of  no  refusal,  although  it  was  raining 
at  the  time  and  likely  to  continue.  We  are  often  obli- 
ged to  gratify  them  contrary  to  our  inclinations,  that 
we  may  secure  their  favor,  and  be  better  enabled  to 
benefit  them  and  their  nation.  The  entertainment 
was  in  Europeim  style,  and  consisted  of  a  variety  of 
dishes.  He  did  not  partake  with  us,  it  being  the  cus- 
tom of  the  princes  to  eat  alone — he  offered  as  an  apol- 
ogy, that  he  had  dined. 

After  dinner  he  amnsed  us  with  music  upon  some 
of  their  native  instruments,  being  himself  an  amateur, 
and  aided  by  the  vocal  strains  of  one  of  his  attend- 
ants. Between  the  musical  powers  of  the  Chinese 
and  Siamese,  as  has  been  mentioned,  there  is  a  striking 
contrast,  altogether  in  favor  of  the  talent  and  taste  of 
the  latter.  The  instruments  are  much  more  melodi- 
ous, and  their  voices  softer  and  more  natural.  They 
usually  employ  two  instruments  of  percussion,  proba- 
bly borrowed  from  the  Javanese.  The  one  is  made 
of  transverse  pieces  of  bamboo,  suspended  by  strings 
upon  a  small  shallop  frame-work ;  the  other  consists 
of  a  number  of  hollow  copper  vessels  of  different  sizes, 

♦  Bruce  in  the  interior  of  Abyssinia  met  a  person  who  had  picked 
up  a  few  words  of  English,  and  those  the  vilest  in  the  language, 
t  "  Lord  of  Heaven." 


huttg  upon  a  circular  frame.  Theil*  sWeetest  wind- 
instruments  are  borrowed  from  the  Laos.  They  are 
made  of  a  number  of  reeds  of  unequal  lengths  put  to- 
gether, and  perforated  so  as  to  give  the  necessary  dis- 
tinction of  notes.  On  this  instrument  the  prince  per- 
forms with  much  taste.  The  more  we  see  of  this 
young  man,  the  more  we  are  struck  with  the  variety  of 
his  talents.  O  that  the  Savior  would  verify  the  pre- 
diction  and  promise  in  him,  "  Kings  shall  see  and 
arise,  'princes  also  shall  worship." 

September  2d. — Our  little  worshiping  assembly  has 
just  dispersed.  About  twenty  were  present.  It  is  so 
affecting  to  have  a  company  of  poor  pagans  assemble 
on  the  Lord's  day,  to  hear  the  doctrines  of  the  Gospel^ 
and  bow  the  knee  to  their  great  Author,  that  I  can 
scarcely  endure  the  thought  of  leaving  them,  and  am 
at  times  perplexed  to  know  whether  even  measures 
for  self-preservation  ought  not  to  yield  to  the  claims 
of  a  whole  kingdom.  I  must  however  remember,  that 
if  the  first  be  necessary,  the  other  must  in  any  case  be 
abandoned.  The  harvest  truly  is  great,  but  the  labor- 
ers are  few. 

Two  events  have  recently  occurred,  which  tend  td 
promote  the  objects  of  the  mission.  They  have  been 
constructing  a  brick  foot-path  between  our  premises 
and  the  Chinese  settlement.  The  way  was  almost  im- 
passable before,  even  to  the  bare-footed  peripatetics. 
It  is  now  made  of  materials,  and  in  a  manner  which 
will  probably  surmount  the  hight  of  the  annual  flood, 
and  resist  the  action  of  its  waters.  Though  a  misera- 
ble place  to  walk  for  exercise,  on  account  of  the  nar- 
rowness of  the   way,    the  crowd  of  passengers,    and 

26 


296  siAM. 

what  is  worse  than  all,  the  number  and  annoyance  of 
the  dogs,  yet  it  is  the  only  ahernative,  during  the  great- 
er part  of  the  year,  to  remaining  within  our  own  httle 
inclosure,  and  it  is  essential  to  the  prosecution  of  those 
external  duties  which  ought  not  to  be  neglected  in 
this  mission.  Its  chief  advantage,  however,  is  the 
facility  with  which  visitors,  patients  and  worshipers 
can  come  to  the  house. 

The  other  event  is  an  agreement  entered  into,  with 
Chow  Fah,  which  affords  to  me  advantages  for  the  ac- 
quisition of  their  language,  and  opens  a  door  for  in- 
structing him.  Every  second  day,  he  sends  for  me 
to  come  and  teach  him  the  English,  and  the  alternate 
day  he  sends  a  teacher  to  instruct  me  in  Siamese. 
Want  of  health  prevents  me  from  availing  myself  of 
the  benefits  of  the  arrangement,  except  in  a  limited 
measure,  and  I  am  sorry  to  find,  that  want  of  inclina- 
tion or  fear  debars  him  from  the  full  advantages  of 
that  information  which  I  am  principally  anxious  to 
impart.  He  bids  fair  for  the  throne,  and  is  perhaps 
afraid  of  any  thing  which  might  render  his  success 
doubtful.  He  hears  considerable  however  in  the  way 
circumlocution.  In  fact,  I  am  withheld  from  the 
plainest,  most  pointed  conversation,  only  by  the  appre- 
hension of  defeating  my  own  object ;  and  when  there 
are  sufficient  grounds  for  dismissing  this  apprehension, 
the  effort,  in  the  Lord's  strength,  shall  be  made.  Still 
I  very  much  fear,  that  an  imperfect  knowledge  of  his 
language  renders  all  my  instructions  comparatively 
unavailing. 

13th. — To-day  Mr.  Hunter  sent  for  us,  to  witness  a 
sight  which  has  attracted  much  attention  in  Siam,  and 


siAM.  297 

which  would  be  considered  equally  strange  in  more 
enlightened  countries.  It  was  a  young  child  sporting 
iu  the  water  as  in  its  native  element,  with  all  the 
buoyancy  and  playfulness  of  a  fish.  Its  evolutions 
are  astonishing,  sometimes  rolling  over  with  a  rapid 
motion,  and  apparently  no  exertion,  then  turning 
round  like  a  hoop,  by  bending  its  face  under,  as  it  lies 
on  its  back,  and  throwing  its  feet  over  its  head.  It 
floats  like  a  cork,  with  no  apparent  motion  of  any 
of  the  muscles^— occasionally  allows  itself  to  sink  un- 
til only  the  half  of  its  head  is  seen — dives — holds  its 
face  under  water  enough  to  alarm  those  who  are  ig- 
norant of  its  powers,  and  yet  appears  to  breathe  as 
easily  as  though  it  had  suffered  no  suspension  of  respi- 
ration. From  its  actions  and  countenance,  it  is  evi- 
dently deliofhted  with  the  exercise,  evinces  no  fatigue 
nor  the  least  apprehension,  and  often  cries  when  taken 
up.  It  is  a  singular  object,  both  out  and  in  the  water. 
It  is  three  years  old — very  small^-can  neither  speak 
nor  walk — is  very  defective  in  sight— will  take  nothing 
but  its  earliest  provision — in  fact,  appears  quite  idi- 
otic, and  has  exhibited  the  same  fondness  for  the  wa- 
ter, and  peculiar  fetes  in  it,  from  its  first  year  of  age — 
the  first  time  that  it  was  tried. 

24th.— A  governor  of  one  of  the  Malayan  districts 
has  been  charged  with  oppressing  the  people,  for  his 
own  aggrandizement.  Not  satisfied  with  punishing 
the  guilty,  they  have  seized  his  wife,  children,  and  re- 
latives, and  doomed  them  all  •'  to  slavery  and  chains" 
for  life.  This  case  of  unrighteous  dealing  is  by  no 
ijrieans  singular.  The  Siamese  have  lately  been  enr 
^aged  in  a  war  with  spnje  of  the  Malay  tribes  ijj  ih^ 


298;  siAM. 

peninsula,  and  owing  to  their  superiority  in  numbers 
and  equipments,  have  conquered  their  enemies,  and 
plundered  their  country.  It  is  said  that  as  many  as 
fiv^e  thousand  prisoners— families,  as  well  as  fothers — 
have  been  sent  as  slaves  to  Siam.  I  visited  a  compa- 
ny of  them  to-day,  and  was  shocked  at  their  condition. 
Aged  and  young — honorable  and  base  were  huddled 
together  like  swine — filthy,  diseased, — some  extreme- 
ly ill,  destitute  of  nourishment,  medicines  or  attention. 
They  were  serving  out  a  coarse  kind  of  rice  to  them 
by  a  careful  and  parsimonious  measurement,  without 
allowing  them  any  condiment  to  give  it  a  relish,  or 
even  fuel  to  cook  it. 

25th. — My  visits  to  the  prince  have  been  supended 
some  time  on  account  of  the  death  of  an  aunt,  who  was 
living  with  him.  On  these  occasions  all  the  servants 
and  subjects  are  obliged  to  have  their  heads  shaved. 
To-day  he  took  me  to  see  the  style  in  which  the  body 
is  preserved,  and  witness  some  of  the  ceremonies,  pre- 
paratory to  its  being  burned.  It  is  partially  embalm- 
ed in  a  sitting  posture,  with  the  feet  drawn  up,  and 
the  elbows  between  the  knees.  The  shrine  or  case  in 
which  it  is  preserved  is  constructed  like  a  pyramid, 
and  decked  with  canopies  and  other  ornaments.  The 
priests  were  present,,  and  had  been  repeating  their 
prayers  in  a  faneral  tone  of  voice.  At  six  in  the  eve- 
ning twenty-four  drums  were  beat,  and  trunjpets 
blown — to  frighten  away  the  evil  spirits,  as  I  conjec- 
tured, by  way  of  interrogation — but  from  mere  custom, 
as  my  quick-sighted  informant  replied.  He  admitted, 
Iiowever,  th^t  they  did  believe  they  cpuld  drive  away 


SI  AM.  -299 

•evil   spirits,   though   guns  and    not  drums  were  the 
proper  instruments. 

Their  superstition  in  regard  to  these  demons  is  ex- 
treme. He  declares  they  are  frequently  seen,  and 
heard  and  felt  in  inflicting  deadly  diseases  upon  per- 
sons. They  have  even  the  power,  as  he  and  the 
whole  nation  suppose,  of  introducing  into  the  body 
substances  too  large,  and  hard  to  be  digested.  "  You 
hear  a  noise  generally  upon  the  wall  where  you  are 
sleeping.  If  you  start  and  inquire  the  cause,  the  ob- 
ject is  immediately  introduced  through  the  mouth  ;  if 
you  lie  still  and  maintain  silence,  they  cannot  adminis- 
ter the  fatal  dose."  This  art  is  also  ascribed  to  men, 
who,  by  their  magic,  can  reduce  pieces  of  leather  and 
other  substances  to  an  almost  impe^^ceptible  size,  and 
when  they  are  combined  with  food  or  medicine  and 
swallowed,  can  make  them  return  to  their  original 
form.  This  they  declare  has  been  satisfactorily  deter- 
mined by  post  mortem  examination.  I  have  heard 
the  same  from  the  Chinese,  who  stand  in  much  dread 
of  many  of  the  Siamese,  believing  that  they  can  en- 
gage malicious  spirits  on  their  errands  of  death,  and 
that  it  is  often  done  to  avenge  a  private  animosity,  or 
gain  other  objects.  Very  recently  the  brother  of  the 
Prah  Klang,  who  frequently  takes  his  place  in  com- 
mercial transactions  with  foreigners,  died.  We  all 
suspected,  from  the  slightness  of  the  indisposition,  and 
the  suddenness  of  the  death,  that  it  must  have  been 
occasioned  by  ignorance  or  design  in  the  native  doc- 
tors. When  the  body  was  burnt,  those  who  were 
present  testified,  that  a  large  piece  of  flesh  was  founql 
oiujconsumed  in  the  fire,  which  they  knew  must  have 
.2.6* 


300  ^lAU. 

produced  his  disease.  This  flesh  was  takeii,  distribu- 
ted among  the  relatives,  and  eaten,  under  the  impres- 
sion that  none  who  have  employed  this  preventive, 
can  ever  be  destroyed  by  the  same  means.  Among 
other  witnesses,  a  little  artless  lad,  son  of  the  Phra 
Klang,  told  my  friend  Hunter  of  this  fact,  and  exhibit- 
ed strong  feelings  of  disgust  when  he  declared  that 
they  had  made  him  eat  part  of  the  flesh.  The  priests, 
it  is  said,  by  much  praying  have  the  control  of  these 
spirits,  or  at  least  are  beyand  their  control,  which  fur- 
nishes a  probable  clue  to  the  origin  and  object  of  the 
superstition. 

October  2d. — Yesterday  and  to-day  I  have  been  vis- 
iting the  Malay  captives.  The  place  was  the  same 
as  before,  but  the  company  was  different,  and  their 
numbers  increased.  It  is  quite  sickening  to  witness 
their  misery.  Some  of  them  had  died ;  others  were 
apparently  in  the  last  stage  of  existence.  Multitudes 
were  ill,  none  of  whom  had  comforts  adapted  to  their 
wants,  and  many  of  them,  especially  the  children,  ex- 
hibited such  a  painful  expression  of  countenances  as 
quite  made  the  heart  to  bleed.  We  supplied  some  of 
them  with  mats  to  keep  them  from  lying  on  the  cold 
ground.  I  was  happy  to  learn  that  their  measure  of 
rice,  though  of  the  most  inferior  quality,  had  been  en- 
larged, and  a  little  dried  fish  added  to  their  allow- 
ance; but  oh,  what  fare  for  the  emaciated  bodies  and 
squeamish  appetites  of  the  diseased  ! 

To-day  I  took  such  medicines  as  I  thought  might 
be  serviceable,  but  was  disappointed  to  find  that  the 
greater  part  of  yesterday's  company  had  been  removed. 
Among  the  objects  of  pity  was  a  mother,  whose  child 


»1AM.  301 

had  been  torn  from  her,  and  was  about  to  be  sent  to  a 
distant  part  of  the  kingdom.  She  was  almost  fran- 
tic,— at  times  on  her  knees  before  those  who  had  the 
management  of  the  business,  begging  them  to  restore 
her  child — and  again  running  to  the  boat  which  they 
were  pushing  from  the  shore,  and  crying  out  after  the 
object  of  her  affections^  in  the  most  impassioned  man- 
ner. No  notice  was  taken  of  her,  the  boat  moved  off. 
and  she  was  left  to  the  painfulness  of  probably  an  eter- 
nal separation.  We  asked  those  to  whom  the  poor 
woman  appealed  for  pity,  why  they  did  not  attend  to 
her.  They  replied^  that  they  had  received  orders,  and 
were  afraid  to  disobey  them. 

October  7th. — To-day  our  number  exceeded  twenty 
by  one  or  two.  In  the  evening  the  priest  called  and 
reiturned  three  volumes  of  the  word  of  God,  which  he 
had  taken  to  copy.  Not  knowing  whether  I  should 
ever  have  another  opportunity  for  private  conversa- 
tion with  him,  and  feeling  a  strong  interest  in  his 
eternal  welfare,  I  spoke  as  freely  as  I  could  on  the  im- 
portance of  having  the  heart  interested  in  the  truths 
which  he  had  taken  some  pains  to  learn.  I  mention- 
ed that  his  was  the  simple  knowledge  of  the  head, 
which  could  be  of  no  avail  toward  his  salvation,  as 
long  as  the  affections  were  unmoved,  and  his  idolatry 
retained.  By  a  word  or  two  and  a  very  significant 
gesture,  he  made  me  to  understand  that  the  fear  of  de- 
capitation was  the  great  preventive  to  a  change  of  his 
faith.  I  told  him  what  the  Savior  commanded  his  dis- 
ciples, about  not  fearing  those  who  could  kill  only  the 
body,  and  that  thousands  for  the  love  of  Jesus  and 


302  SIAM. 

eternal  life  had  been  transported  on  fiery  chariots  to 
heaven. 

His  case  reminds  one  of  the  priests  in  the  Savior's 
day,  who,  it  is  said,  believed ;  but  did  not  confess  him 
openly,  for  the  same  reason.  I  think  there  is  but  lit- 
tle doubt,  but  that  if  a  change  of  circumstances  should 
dissipate  these  fears,  he  would  be  among  the  first  in 
the  kingdom  to  embrace  Christianity.  Alas,  that 
such  a  change  of  circumstances  should  be  at  all  ne- 
cessary ! 

October  14th. — Since  the  commencement  of  our 
Sabbath  service,  I  have  never  seen  such  fixed  and 
thoughtful  attention  as  was  apparent  toward  the  close 
of  this  morning's  exhortation.  The  Spirit  of  the  living 
Savior  was  doubtless  in  our  midst,  and  the  hearts  of 
many.  I  sincerely  believe,  felt  his  sacred  presence. 
Again  the  sadness  of  separation  came  over  my  spirits, 
and  again  I  commended  this  little  band  to  "  the  Shep- 
herd and  Bishop  of  souls."  The  more  we  labor  for 
the  heathen,  the  more  we  see  the  necessity  of  laboring 
with  our  own  hearts.  It  is  difficult  to  say  which  is 
the  most  painful,  to  toil  with  no  encouragement,  or  to 
leave  unaccomplished  the  most  encouraging  labors. 
If  there  were  others  to  take  the  place  of  those  who  are 
compelled  to  retire  ;  or  if  the  flock  from  whom  their 
pastor  is  removed  had  attained  to  strength ;  the  trial  is 
■comparatively  light.  To  labor  with  patience  and  per- 
severance, expectation  and  prayer,  is  not  sufficient  at 
least  for  the  comfort  of  the  instrument ;  he  must  learn 
to  have  his  spirit  so  attuned,  that  the  animating  strain 
*"  I  can  do  all  things  through  Christ,  which  strength- 


SIAM.  303 

eneth  me,''  may  allow  of  the  interlude,  ''not  my  will,  but 
thine  be  done." 

During  the  past  week  I  have  supplied  the  Burman 
camp  with  tracts  brought  with  me,  in  their  own  lan- 
guage. The  books  were  well  received  by  priests  and 
people. 

24th. — Have  been  informed  upon  good  authority 
that  the  Roman  Catholics  in  China  are  reinforced  this 
year,  by  a  bishop  and  four  missionaries  ;  and  in  Siam 
by  one  missionary.  The  viceroy  of  Saigon,  in  Co- 
chin-China,  who  was  very  favorable  to  that  religion^ 
and  a  man  of  vast  power  in  the  kingdom,  has  lately 
died,  which  has  produced  such  apprehensions  among 
the  priests  in  regard  to  their  safety,  that  they  have 
begged  the  bishop  of  Siam  to  oifer  public  prayers  for 
their  preservation.*  The  same  authority  states  that 
the  number  of  Christians  in  Corea  is  about  ten  thou- 
sand. They  have  no  European  priests,  but  are  sup- 
plied by  natives  from  China.  A  bishop  and  several 
missionaries  are  soon  to  be  appointed. 

The  most  prevalent  languages  employed  by  the  na- 
tives and  foreign  residents  at  Siam,  are  the  Siamese 
and  Chinese.  The  spoken  language  of  the  Siamese 
is  simple  and  nervous.  Like  the  Chinese,  there  is  a 
great  deal  of  tone  in  their  ordinary  pronunciation,  but 
unlike  many  dialects  of  that  language,  the  sense  is 
not  determined  by  accent.  These  modulations  of 
voice  are  heard  more  distinctly  in  reading,  when  you 
perceive  there  are  three  keys,  a  number  of  notes  apart, 
through  which  they  pass  by  rules,  which  I  believe  cus- 

♦  They  have  since  suffered  severe  persecutiou. 


304  SIAM. 

torn  alone  regulates,  though  it  teaches  them  with  un- 
erring precision.  In  their  books,  they  are  exceedingly 
fond  of  epithets,  turgid  phrases,  and  a  certain  corres- 
pondence of  sound  in  words  and  members  of  sen- 
tences. The  object  of  language  is  often  entirely  for- 
gotten. Instead  of  being  regarded  as  the  vehicle  of 
thought,  they  appear  to  consider  it  as  superior  to  all 
sentiment,  often  multiplying  expressions  without  the 
least  additional  force  or  variation  to  the  ideas.  The 
majority  of  their  books  contain  little  else,  than  this 
pompous  display  of  verbiage.  A  number  of  works 
have  been  written  in  the  language.  Some  of  them 
treat  of  anatomy,  medicine,  law  and  other  sciences; 
but  a  large  proportion  are  novels  and  fables,  as  full  of 
absurdities,  and  puerilities,  as  the  former  are  desti- 
tute of  truth  and  utility.  There  is  scarcely  any  dif- 
ference in  the  mode  of  speaking  the  language  through- 
out the  kingdom, — the  tones  vary  a  little,  but  so  little 
that  all  understand'  each  other  with  perfect  facility. 
The  Bali  or  Pali  is  the  sacred  tongue  of  Budha,  and 
studied  by  the  priests.  Many  Pali  words  have  been 
introduced  into  their  writinofs.  The  court  lano-uasfG 
is  principally  Cambodjian.  The  first  legislator  was 
from  Cambodjia,  and  though  he  lived  nearly  twelve 
centuries  ago,  the  language  remains  unchanged.  The 
common  era  of  Siam  is  the  commencement  of  his  po- 
litical career. 

The  language  of  Cambodjia  is  very  different  from 
the  Siamese.  The  Cambodjians  employ  the  Pali  cha- 
racter in  their  moral  writings,  but  have  another  for 
ordinary  subjects.  The  Laos  appears  more  a  dialect 
,of  the  Chinese  than  a  distinct  tongue,  though  the  chja- 


SIAM.  305 

meters  employed  by  the  two  nations  are  somewhat 
different.  Between  the  Burmese  and  Siamese  there 
is  scarcely  any  resemblance. 

The  most  common  colloquial  dialect  of  the  Chinese 
in  Siam  is  the  Tay-chew  or  Teo-chew.  It  resembles 
the  Fokien  more  than  any  other  dialect,  but  still  dif- 
fers so  much  from  it,  both  in  phrases  and  accent,  that 
without  accommodation  on  one  or  both  sides,  there 
can  be  but  little  intercourse  between  the  natives  of  the 
two  places.  There  is  not  the  same  fullness  and  dis- 
tinctness of  sound  in  the  Tay-chew  dialect  as  in  the 
other.  The  consequence  is,  it  is  more  difficult  to  ac- 
quire, and  especially  to  employ  intelligibly  to  the  na- 
tives. This  may  be  owing,  however,  to  the  great 
want  of  uniformity  among  themselves,  as  also  to  the 
fact  that  they  are  poorer  and  less  cultivated  than  the 
inhabitants  of  Fokien,  and  consequently  if  you  do  not 
happen  to  strike  the  very  term  and  tone  which  they 
employ,  they  have  no  means  of  gathering  your  idea. 

There  is  nothing  in  a  missionary's  labor  which  tries 
his  patience  and  power  of  application  so  much  as  these 
difficult  and  different  languages.  No  effort  of  genius 
can  overcome  the  obstacles  with  which  he  continual- 
ly meets.  It  is  true  there  is  a  talent  for  languages, 
which  gives  immense  advantages  to  those  who  pos- 
sess it,  but  the  acquisition  of  the  Chinese  depends  up- 
on a  close  imitation  of  writings,  which  can  scarcely 
be  said  to  be  governed  by  any  principles,  and  in  which 
the  idiom  is  totally  opposite  to  any  thing  known  or 
employed  among  western  nations.  First,  a  know- 
ledge of  the  true  character  must  be  acquired,  and  then 
you  must  pore  over  the  books  in  which  these  nume- 


306 


SIAM. 


rous  characters  are  employed,  until  you  perceive  how 
they  are  combined  to  convey  different  ideas.  The 
man  who  has  the  most  extensive  acquaintance  with 
their  classical  and  historical  works,  who  can  servilely 
imitate  their  style,  and  liberally  quote  their  senti- 
ments, is  the  literary  man  in  China,  and  of  course  the 
one  best  calculated  to  influence  and  control  the  mind 
of  the  empire.  It  is  the  untiring  exertion  required  in 
mastering  these  difficulties,  connected  with  the  effects 
of  a  climate  unfavorable  to  close  mental  application, 
which  has  injured  the  health  of  the  majority  who  have 
devoted  themselves  to  this  mission.  This  fact  how- 
ever, should  not  discourage  any  who  feel  it  their  duty 
to  consecrate  their  lives  to  the  salvation  of  these  na- 
tions. The  chief  difficulties  belong  rather  to  the  lite- 
rature of  the  language,  than  to  a  sufficient  knowledge 
of  it,  far  useful  purposes.  The  colloquial  dialects, 
though  they  all  require  attention,  may  yet  be  obtained 
without  injury  to  the  health,  and  without  that  appli- 
cation of  mind  which  is  necessary  for  literary  pur- 
poses. To  live  with  them,  or  to  have  them  live 
with  you— to  talk,  though  you  blunder — to  question, 
though  you  cannot  understand  the  answer— to  repeat 
or  even  write  down  what  you  hear,  and  inquire  where 
you  are  ignorant — to  dismiss  all  pride,  all  diffidence, 
and  to  lay  every  man  and  every  thing  under  contri- 
bution to  your  object,  is  the  best  way  to  study  lan- 
guages, and  a  way  which  confines  no  one  to  his  desk. 
It  is  an  important  rule  never  to  be  ashamed  of  your 
ignorance,  nor  backward  to  ask  about  even  what 
you  ought  to  know.  And  no  plan  have  I  found  so 
profitable   as  employing  the  pencil  in  catching  words 


SXAM.  $07 

and  sentences  from  the  lips  of  those  who  are  talking, 
and  then,  if  you  think  it  too  impolite  to  make  the  man 
his  own  interpreter  on  the  spot,  to  defer  the  inquiry 
for  a  future  period.  I  have  known  one  or  two  ladies 
whose  health  was  delicate)  and  yet  who  had  made 
themselves  such  proficients  in  the  Chinese,  that  they 
could  converse  on  all  subjects,  and  read  and  explain 
the  Christian  books  with  facility.*  Still  no  other  lan^^ 
guage  in  the  East,  probably  no  other  in  the  world) 
presents  such  difficulties  to  its  complete  acquisition  as 
the  Chinese.  The  Siamese,  especially  the  spoken  lan- 
guage, is  by  no  means  appalling.  The  Malayan, 
employed  in  the  Straits  and  throughout  the  islands,  is 
simplicity  itself  It  is  doubtful  whether  there  is  an^ 
other  language  in  the  world  which  can  be  so  quickly 
understood,  and  employed  by  foreigners  of  all  nations* 
November  4th. — Expecting  to  leave  the  place  be- 
fore this  day,  I  had  made  arrangements  for  those  who 
were  disposed  to  continue  the  Sabbath  services*,  to 
meet  in  future  in  the  same  place  and  at  the  same  hour. 
All  whom  I  had  any  reason  to  expect,  came,  and  these 
brought  others  with  them,  so  that  the  number  was  as 
great  as  usual.  Having  in  the  presence  of  all,  men- 
tioned the  person  by  whom  1  desired  the  exercises  to 
be  principally  conducted,  I  resigned  the  office  to  him, 
and  sat  as  a  listener.  The  audience  were  very  silent 
and  attentive,  and  the  expounder  animated  and  happy 
in  his  views  and  illustrations.  It  was  very  evident  to 
me,  that,  exclusive  of  the  obligations  which  would 
probably  bind  a  greater  number  to  me  than  to  the  sub- 

*  Being  familiar  with  the  subjects,  these  books  are  more  easily  com- 
prehended by  us  than  their  own. 

27 


308  SIAM. 

stitute,  or  to  their  own  best  interests,  the  change  is  ill 
many  most  important  respects  desirable.  In  power  of 
language  he  has  greatly  the  advantage,  at  least  in  his 
own  dialect,  which  is  more  famihar  to  others,  and 
less  to  myself  than  the  Fokien.  His  knowledge  is 
quite  extensive — the  result  evidently  of  much  reading, 
and  I  hope  of  spiritual  illumination.  Besides,  he 
knows  their  modes  of  thinking  and  reasoning  on  moral 
subjects,  and  the  objections  they  entertain  against 
Christianity,  which  have  been  often  urged  against  his 
faith,  but  which  they  are  more  backward  to  express  in 
my  presence. 

Before  leaving  Siam,  it  was  my  intention  to  have  vis- 
ited other  parts  of  the  kingdom.  Jiithia,  the  ancient 
capital,  and  Chantibun,  situated  on  the  coast  towards 
Cochin-China,  are  places  containing  a  large  popula- 
tion, and  presenting  many  facilities  for  missionary 
labor.  I  have  frequently  conversed  with  those  v/ho 
were  acquainted  with  these  parts  of  the  country,  and 
from  all  that  I  could  gather,  they  appeared  to  be  in- 
viting and  important  spheres  of  Christian  exertion. 
At  Juthia,  probably  at  Chantibun,  the  Roman  Catho- 
lics have  missionaries.  It  might  be  a  little  difficult  at 
first  to  get  access  to  these  places,  as  the  Siamese  pos- 
sess the  jealousy  and  timidity  of  some  of  their  neigh- 
bors ;  but  time  would  no  doubt  soon  remove  their  sus- 
picions, and  open  the  way  to  every  part  of  the  king- 
dom. 

Since  the  writer  left  Siam,  other  missionaries  have 
entered  the  field.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jones,  of  the  American 
Baptist  Church,  arrived  early  the  following  year.  In 
a  communication  made  to  the  society  to  which  he  be- 


SIAM.  309 

loHgs,  Mr.  J.  states,  under  date  of  September  22d,  1833, 
that  the  little  congregation — of  which  frequent  men- 
tion has  been  made  in  this  volume — continue  to  wor- 
ship in  the  place  appointed  them,  and  that  twenty 
were  present  on  the  preceding  Sabbath.  In  another 
letter  written  in  December  of  the  same  year,  he  says 
"  our  little  assembly  of  Chinese  still  continues,  con- 
ducted by  Bunty  as  usual.  We  have  had  for  some 
months  as  good  evidence  as  I  could  expect,  that  two 
or  three  of  his  associates  were  true  converts  ;  but 
owing  to  my  ignorance  of  their  language,  and  their 
slight  acquainance  with  Siamese,  I  had  hitherto  de- 
clined their  repeated  solicitations  for  baptism.  At 
length  circumstances  were  such  that  I  did  not  feel  at 
liberty  to  decline  any  longer,  and  on  Sabbath  morning 
the  8th  inst.,  1  administered  the  rite  to  Chek  Bunty, 
Ohek  Peng  and  Check  Leang-Seah."  Chsk  is  a  fa- 
miliar appellative  among  the  Chinese  ;  signifying 
uncle. 

Still  more  recently,  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Johnson  and 
Robinson,  and  Dr.  Bradley,  of  the  American  Board, 
have  joined  the  mission.  In  a  letter  dated  April  20th, 
1835,  Mr.  Robinson  writes  that  ''  the  prejudices  of  the 
people  are  gradually  giving  way,  since  they  see  we 
have  come  to  dwell  among  them,  with  our  wives  and 
children."  ''The  little  company  of  Chinese  continue 
to  meet  on  the  Sabbath,  under  the  care  of  brother 
Jones ;  another  has  been  baptized  since  our  arrival. 
We  have  established  a  Chinese  school,  with  from  ten  to 
fifteen  scholars,  in  which  none  but  Christian  books  are 
taught.  We  hope  soon  to  institute  others,  both  for 
Chinese  and  Siamese," 


CHAPTER     XIII 


PASSAGE    FROM    SIAM. 

On  Monday  morning,  November  5th,  Mr.  Hunte? 
called  for  me  in  a  barge,  and  took  me  to  the  schooner 
in  which  I  was  going  to  Singapore,  and  which  was 
lying  outside  of  the  bar.  The  schooner  was  chartered 
by  him,  and  through  his  influence  and  the  kindness 
of  captain  Norris,  I  was  again  laid  under  obhga- 
tions  for  a  passage  without  its  expense.  The  vessel 
was  less  than  a  hundred  tons  in  measurement,  and 
four  of  us  were  obliged  to  stmo  away  in  a  very  small 
cabin.  Nothing  peculiar  occurred  on  the  passage,  ex- 
cept that  we  came  near  getting  on  a  lee  shore,  through 
the  inattention  of  the  helmsman.  Supposing  that  we 
were  running  in  aline  with  the  peninsula,  we  descried 
land  immediately  before  us,  and  were  obliged  to  beat 
some  time  against  a  head  sea,  before  we  felt  it  safe  to 
bear  away.  Had  the  wind  been  powerful,  and  the  sea 
high,  or  had  we  not  enjoyed  the  advantages  of  day- 
hght,  the  result  would  have  probably  been  disastrous-. 

November  23d. — Visited  a  Borneo  proa,  in  compa- 
ny with  Mr.  Thomsen,  to  obtain  information  respect- 
ing that  island,  and  to  distribute  books.     The  princi- 

27* 


312  RHIO. 

pal  man  with  whom  we  conversed,  proved  himself  in- 
telligent; and  commnnicative.  He  belonged  to  Ben- 
jar-Massin,  about  which  place  and  the  other  Dutch 
settlements,  Sambas  and  Pontiana,  he  manifested 
much  knowledge.  He  represents  the  Dyaks  residing 
near  the  settlements,  and  in  the  interior,  as  exceeding-' 
ly  numerous.  Formerly  they  were  all  very  ferocious ; 
but  the  character  of  many  of  them  has  been  in  a  mea- 
sure meliorated  by  intercourse  with  foreigners,  and 
perhaps  by  some  little  sense  of  fear,  as  well  as  of 
profit  resulting  from  this  connection.  This  applies 
principally,  if  not  exclusively,  to  those  who  reside 
near  the  station.  He  speaks  of  thousands  of  Chinese 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  mines,  which  abound  in  the  in- 
terior,—a  fact  fully  confirmed  by  Europeans  who  have 
visited  these  places. 

On  Wednesday,  Nov^ember  28th,  Mr.  Thomsen  and 
myself  left  Singapore  for  Rhio,  in  the  ship  Dedierika, 
captain  TownsendJ  who  went  out  of  his  way  to  ac- 
commodate us,  and  would  receive  nothing  for  our  pas- 
sage. Owing  to  calms,  we  were  nearly  three  days  in 
accomplishing  what  we  expected  to  perform  in  four- 
and-twenty  hours.  Our  object  was  to  visit  Mr.  Went- 
ing,  the  Dutch  missionary,  and  distribute  books  among 
the  Malays  and  Chinese.  We  found  a  few  thousand 
of  each   class  residing  in   Rhio  and  its  neighborhood. 

Mr.  W.  occupies  a  small  island  by  himself,  which, 
with  others  in  the  vicinity,  was  formerly  infested  by 
pirates.  It  was  given  by  the  Dutch  authorities  to  the 
Netherlands'  Society,  on  the  condition  that  tlieir  mis- 
sionaries should  make  it  their  abode.  The  house  is 
situated  on  its  highest  eminence,  commanding  an  en- 


RHIO.  313 

chanting  prospect,  and  exposed  to  every  cooling  breeze. 
The  islet  contains  abowt  one  or  two  hundred  acres  of 
land.  Beside  the  variety  of  its  own  surface,  checker- 
ed with  lofty  trees  and  native  dwellings, — the  touches 
of  culture,  and  the  wildness  of  the  jungle, — you  be- 
hold stretching  beyond  it,  an  expanse  of  water,  bound- 
ed on  the  whole  horizontal  range,  with  the  exception 
of  one  opening,  by  numerous  islands,— here  retiring 
behind.each  other  so  as  to  disclose  merely  their  prom- 
ontories,— and  there  stretching  in  bold  continuity  to 
an  immense  extent, — in  some  places  so  near  that  al- 
most every  object  may  be  defined,  and  in  others  so 
distant  that  you  can  discern  nothing  but  their  azure 
outline.  About  eight  miles  from  you  appears  the 
small  town  of  Rhio,  with  its  few  European  buildings, 
and  its  hill-crowned  fort, — on  one  side  of  which  is  a 
Chinese  settlement,  on  the  other  a  Malay  campong, 
and  in  front,  the  harbor  with  ships  and  native  proas. 
The  only  part  of  the  horizon  not  bounded  by  hills,  is 
the  usual  passage  through  which  vessels  enter  and 
leave  the  harbor  of  Rhio,  and  pass  and  repass  from 
Batavia,  Singapore,  and  other  places  among  these 
islands. 

On  the  island  there  are  about  thirty  Malays,  whom 
Mr.  Wonting  teaches  in  a  little  airy  chapel,  built  on 
another  hill.  We  spent  our  time  principally  at  Rhio, 
and  were  very  hospitably  entertained  by  one  of  the 
Dutch  officers  attached  to  the  military.  From  the  hill 
at  Rhio,  where  the  Europeans  reside,  the  prospect  is 
nearly  equal  to  the  one  described.  Among  the  pe- 
culiarities of  the  vegetable  kingdom,  we  found  the  sea- 
sitive  plant,  mimosa^  running  wild  upon  the  hills.   A 


314  SINGAPO-RE. 

sweep  of  the  hand  or  foot  among  its  luxuriant  tendrils-, 
scattered  apparent  death  aroundj^but  a  few  moments 
showed  it  to  be  mere  appearance,  for  life  and  beauty 
were  soon  restored.  We  returned  to  Singapore  in  one 
of  the  small  government  vessels,  manned  with  natives, 
and  fitted  up  to  guard  the  sea  from  pirates. 

January  18th,  1833. — Yesterday,  at  half-past  nine 
in  the  morning,  I  had  the  mournful  satisfaction  of 
witnessing  the  departure  of  my  beloved  Christian 
brother,  the  Rev.  Robert  Burn,  chaplain  of  Singapore. 
I  feel  thankful  for  the  privilege  of  attending  his  sick 
bed  for  about  a  month  and  a  half,  and  for  receiving 
and  endeavoring  to  communicate  such  lessons,  as  fit 
th-e  dying  to  depart  in  peace,  and  the  surviving  to  live 
with  profit. 

Mr.  Burn  was  an  ornament  to  the  ministry.  In 
him  were  united  some  of  the  rarest  qualities  of  intel- 
lect and  heart.  In  the  private  circle  and  in  the  pul- 
pit, he  often  manifested  such  efforts  of  genius  and 
judgment  as  are  seldom  combined.  His  views  of  di- 
vine truth  were  uncommonly  expansive  and  consist- 
ent, and  what  gave  them  a  double  charm  and  impres- 
siveness,  was  the  tenderness  and  hun:iility  of  spirit 
which  they  had  produced  in  himself.  His  judgment' 
was  too  unbiased,  and  his  experience  too  comprehen- 
sive to  consider  important  those  trifling  points  which 
divide  into  parties  the  Christian  church.  He  had  his 
peculiar  views  and  predilections,  but  in  his  intercourse 
with  those  of  other  sects,  they  were  never  obtruded, 
and  in  his  ordinary  conversation  they  were  seldom 
mentioned.  Wherever  he  saw  the  image  of  Jesus,  he 
acknowledged  a  brother.    Missionaries  of  every  nanie 


SINOAPORK.  315 

and  from  every  country  were  welcomed  to  his  house, 
and  while  he  gladly  co-operated  with  them  in  their 
missionary  labors,  he  availed  himself  of  all  their  aid 
in  his  own  sphere  of  duty.  "  Such  Christian  mag- 
nanimity how  rare,"  and  yet  how  conducive  to  the  in- 
terests of  all  parties, — the  salvation  of  a  world, — the 
glory  of  an  undivided  Savior. 

But  there  was  another  peculiarity  in  this  beloved 
brother,  which  not  only  won  the  hearts  of  all  who 
knew  him,  but  perhaps  more  than  anything  else  im- 
proved those  other  traits  of  character  in  which  he  ex- 
celled. He  was  not  simply  an  Apollos  in  the  Scrip- 
tures, but  an  Israel  in  prayer.  Before  I  had  the  plea- 
sure of  his  acquaintance,  he  was  described  to  me  as 
one  who  appeared  ready  under  all  circumstances  to 
''fall  upon  his  knees  before  God;"  and  the  first  time 
and  the  last,  and  every  time  I  heard  him  give  utter- 
ance to  the  sanctified  impressions  and  desires  of  his 
own  heart,  exceeded  every  expectation  I  had  formed. 
Such  a  fervor  and  confidence  of  spirit, — such  power  in 
employing  the  arguments  which  a  covenant  God  has 
furnished,  and  which  He  cannot  resist, — such  a  ten- 
der concern  for  all  his  friends,  his  scattered  brethren  in 
Christ,  and  his  perishing  fellow-sinners  in  every  place, 
I  believe  is  rarely  exhibited, — scarcely  ever  surpassed. 
The  iidmiration  of  all  who  ever  heard  him  pray,  is 
uniform.  God  grant  that  many  such  spiritual  wrests 
lers  rnay  adorn  and  bless  the  church. 

In  his  own  estimation  he  was  below  all  things,-T^ 
none  so  unqualified  for  his  oiSBce,  so  unfaithful  in  th^ 
discharge  of  its  responsible  duties.  He  could  weep 
and  trenjble  when  this  \yas  the  theme,  and  wish  that 


316  SINGAPORE. 

he  might  escape  from  the  station  he  so  miserably  fill- 
ed, and  shrink  away  into  his  beloved  retirement, — an 
unknown  obscurity.  This  was  well,  as  far  as  it  re- 
spects its  influence  on  his  own  spirit ;  but  it  evident- 
ly interfered  with  his  usefulness.  That  which  he 
most  deplored  upon  his  bed  of  death,  was  the  singular 
aversion,  which  he  had  felt  from  his  infancy,  to  min- 
gling with  society,  or  being  made  at  all  conspicuous. 
I  never  knew  such  diffidence  connected  with  such  ca- 
pabilities of  intellect.  He  was  almost  paralyzed  at 
confronting  those  with  whom  he  was  not  intimate,  and 
in  a  degree  proportioned  to  the  part  he  was  expected 
to  sustain  in  their  presence.  This  characteristic, 
though  perfectly  natural,  proved  a  detriment  to  his 
extensive  usefulness. 

It  was  our  earnest  desire,  and  not  without  some 
grounds  of  expectation,  that  this  sickness  might  not  be 
unto  death,  but  for  the  glory  of  Ged,  in  the  eminent 
devotion  of  his  servant's  future  course.  A  large  ma- 
jority with  the  same  complaint  and  under  the  same 
treatment  had  recovered  ;  and  it  was  not  until  he  had 
sunk  under  an  irrecoverable  collapse,  that  the  thought 
of  dying  was  admitted  with  any  seriousness  to  our 
minds.  We  were  much  together,  both  waiting  for  the 
first  favorable  opportunity  to  embark  for  England. 
The  evening  of  the  sudden  change  which  decided  in 
our  minds  his  earthly  destiny,  I  was  with  him  until  a 
late  hour.  We  engaged  in  devotion,  as  usual,  and 
separated  for  the  night,  without  the  least  expectation 
of  his  hastening  departure.  The  next  morning  the 
news  came  that  he  had  passed  a  night  of  extreme  ill- 
ness, and  would  probably  not  survive  the  day.     Ago- 


SINGAPORE.  317 

nized  with  the  unlocked  for  change,  I  hastened  to  his 
bed-side,  but  though  he  recognized  me,  and  expressed 
his  full  knowledge  of  his  approaching  end,  his  mind 
soon  lost  its  balance.  At  first  he  was  agitated.  It 
was  a  midnight  summons,  and  we  were  all  slumber- 
ing ;  but  when  he  trimmed  his  lamp,  and  found  his 
vessel  replenished, — nay,  when  he  looked  up  and  be- 
held the  Bridegroom,  he  recovered  from  the  shock,  and 
became  composed.  From  this  change,  which  prece- 
ded his  departure  about  three  days,  he  was  generally 
in  a  state  of  delirium,  and  continued  unconscious  of 
his  situation,  until  his  spirit  was  released  from  its  pri- 
son, and  admitted  into  "  the  joy  of  his  Lord." 

Eternity  probably  never  appeared  so  much  of  a  real- 
ity, a  present  reality, — never  did  the  glories  of  heaven 
so  powerfully  possess  the  minds  of  the  few  who  stood 
around  this  departing  brother,  as  at  the  moment  when 
we  believed  he  awoke  from  utter  unconsciousness,  to 
the  enjoyment  of  his  Savior's  perfect  likeness  and  frui- 
tion. O  how  solemn  was  the  place.  We  felt  that  the 
King  of  saints  and  his  ministering  angels  were  with 
us, — and  as  we  committed  the  spirit  in  silence  to  the 
favor  of  its  covenant  God,  a  thrill  of  rapture  chased 
away  the  anguish  with  which  we  had  been  oppressed. 
One  of  our  number  was  the  bereaved  companion 
whom  he  held  most  dear  in  life,  and  whose  delicate 
frame  and  sensitive  heart  were  wonderfully  sustained 
in  this  hour  of  overpowering  sadness,  and  overpower- 
ing joy.  Another  was  a  friend*  who  had  ministered 
most  kindly  to  his  wants,  and  from  beneath  whose 
hospitable  roof  he  took  his  heaven-ward  flight.     God 

♦  T.  Oxley,  Esq.,  surgeon  of  the  station. 


318  SINGAPORE. 

ofrant  that  we  may  all  live  under  the  impressions  of 
that  hour, — then  shall  we  not  live  in  vain. 

Mr.  Burn  was  the  son  of  major  general  Andrew 
Burn,  whose  interesting  memoirs  are  before  the  Chris- 
tian public.  Beside  his  afflicted  widow,  he  has  left 
a  brother  in  the  ministry  and  six  sisters  to  mourn 
their  loss,  though  they  can  all  rejoice  in  his  gain. 
Like  Henry  Martyn,  his  chief  inducement  in  accept- 
ing a  chaplaincy  to  the  East,  was  the  desire  of  useful- 
ness among  the  heathen.  He  had  a  considerable  ac- 
quaintance with  two  of  the  languages  of  the  country, 
and  wrote  several  Christian  works  in  one  of  them. 
May  his  example  stimulate  many,  who  occupy  similar 
stations  in  India,  and  beyond  the  Ganges,  and  whose 
influence  and  exertions  are  much  needed  for  the  con- 
version of  the  heathen  nations."^ 

May  20th. — During  the  illness  of  Mr.  Burn,  arid  af- 
ter his  decease,  my  health  was  sufficiently  strong  to 
admit  of  my  occupying  his  place  in  the  duties  of  the 
chaplaincy.  Such  was  the  beneficial  influence  of  the 
change  upon  my  constitution,  and  such  the  effect  of 
the  preached  word,  that  I  concluded  on  deferring  my 
return  to  America  until  I  should  see  whether  it  was  ab- 
solutely necessary  to  leave  these  scenes  of  labor,  and 
diminish  still  more  the  small  number  of  missionaries 
in  the  field.  The  trial  of  parting  with  friends  and 
country  is  great,  but  the  necessity  of  leaving  the  hea- 

*  "  The  inhabitants  of  Malacca  (writes  a  friend  of  Mr.  Burn)  must 
long  remember  him  with  affection.  Whenever  his  ministerial  duties 
called  him  to  that  station,  he  never  failed  to  address  them  publicly 
once  or  twdce  a  week.  He  was  also  a  liberal  supporter  of  the  schools. 
From  the  time  they  were  first  established,  until  the  Lord  was  pleased 
to  take  him  to  his  "rest,  he  annually  set  apart  sixty  or  seventy  pounds 
(three  hundred  dollars)  for  their  support." — Editor  of  London  edition. 


SINGAPORE*  319 

then  world,  where  millions  are  perishing  without  in- 
struction, especially  if  you  have  become  at  all  qualified 
for  usefulness,  is  much  more  painful  to  him  whose 
heart  is  fully  interested  in  his  work. 

In  the  discharge  of  the  duties  of  the  chaplaincy,  the 
study  of  languages  and  some  external  labors  among 
the  Chinese,  my  time  was  occupied  for  four  or  five 
months.  I  attempted  to  supply  every  Chinese  family 
in  the  place  with  Christian  books  ;  but  while  engaged 
in  the  task,  my  health  again  yielded  to  the  influence  of 
the  climate,  and  I  was  obliged  to  leave  the  work  one- 
half,  perhaps  two-thirds  unaccomplished.  A  change 
of  air  and  scene  within  the  tropics  may  prove  useful 
to  an  invalid,  but  it  rarely  restores  a  debilitated  con- 
stitution, and  generally  loses  all  its  influence  after  a 
season. 

During  my  residence  at  Singapore,  I  became  ac- 
quainted with  nearly  all  the  European  families  in  the 
place,  and  received  from  many  of  them  the  most  polite 
and  kind  attentions.  Especially  was  I  laid  under  ob- 
lisrations  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Thomsen,  of  the  mission 
family,  and  Messrs.  Oxley  and  Diggles,  under  whose 
hospitable  roof  I  spent  the  greater  part  of  my  time.  I 
was  not  only  the  guest  but  the  patient  of  the  former 
gentleman,  and  received  at  his  hands  the  most  grateful 


♦  Many  changes  have  occurred  at  Singapore  since  the  writer  first 
visited  the  place.  The  death  of  Mr.  Burn, — the  marriage  of  Miss 
Martyn,  on  account  of  which  the  Chinese  schools  have  suffered  an  ir- 
reparable loss,  at  least  for  some  time  to  come ;  and  very  recently  the 
removal  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Thomsen, — ihe  only  missionaries  in  the  sta- 
tion, on  account  of  ill  health.  The  chaplaincy  has  been  supplied  by 
Mr.  Darrah,  who,  with  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Thomas  Scott,  a  young 
gentleman  engaged  in  commerce,  has  resumed  some  of  the  schools. 

28 


320  SINGAPOliE. 

Saturday  evening,  May  25th,  1833. — Embarked  in 
the  Cambridge,  captain  Barber,  for  England.  The 
want  of  multiplied  comforts  and  medical  attendance, 
only  to  be  enjoyed  in  large  passenger  ships,  and  quite 
indispensable  in  my  precarious  state  of  health,  deter- 
mined my  choice,  or  rather  precluded  all  choice  in  the 
selection  of  a  vessel.  A  few  days  after  leaving  Singa- 
pore, we  made  the  coast  of  Borneo,  and  kept  that  island 
in  sight  nearly  a  week. 


I  am  happy  to  find  that  the  American  Board  of  Foreign  Missions  have 
recently  occupied  this  field,  and  intend  making  Singapore  their  prin- 
cipal station  in  these  countries.  The  printing  apparatus,  having  fonts 
in  two  or  three  languages,  has  been  purchased,  and  several  missiona- 
ries sent  forth.  The  Board  have  fixed  upon  Singapore  for  the  estab- 
lishment of  an  institution  where  the  different  languages  of  the  East 
will  be  taught,  and  where  missionaries  may  be  prepared  for  any  sphere 
in  the  surrounding  kingdoms  and  islands. 


CHAPTER  XIV 


ISLANDS  OF    THE    ARCHIPELAGO BORNEO. 

With  a  single  exception,  Borneo  is  the  largest  isl- 
and in  the  world.  It  is  more  extensive  than  any 
kingdom  of  Europe,  and  although  a  wilderness,  and  a 
vast  haunt  of  savage  beasts  and  men ;  it  possesses  ca- 
pabilities of  culture  and  decoration,  traffic,  health,  and 
wealth,  which  is  scarcely  surpassed  by  any  locality  in 
eastern  Asia.  The  island  is  described  by  one*  who 
traveled  six  hundred  miles  in  the  interior,  and  visit- 
ed Bagottan,  Passier,  and  Coti,  as  "  equal  in  climate, 
and  superior  in  productions  to  any  part  of  Asia  he  had 
seen  or  heard  of."  This  gentleman  had  himself  visit- 
ed many  of  the  best  parts  of  India,  and  was,  on  this 
account,  the  more  capable  of  estimating  its  relative 
value. 

The  coast  throughout  its  whole  circumference  is  in 
the  possession  of  foreign  settlers,  who  have  establish- 

♦  J.  Dalton,  Esq.,  from  whose  interesting  journal  these  remarks  are 
principally  taken,  and  whose  extensive  observations  have  generally 
confirmed  the  reports  of  other  writers.  At  Singapore,  where  Mr,  D. 
lived  and  died,  and  where  his  journal  was  published,  his  authority  is 
relied  on.  In  some  other  places,  where  neither  the  man  nor  the  sub- 
jects upon  which  he  treats  are  at  £^ll  known,  it  has  been  questioned, 


322  '         BORNEO. 

ed  themselves  here  at  successive  periods,  and  who 
claim  the  right  of  possession,  as  a  privilege  vested  in 
their  commercial  and  physical  importance.  Bugis, 
Malays,  Chinese,  and  Cambodjians,  have  each  retain- 
ed a  footing.  The  Dutch  are  the  only  European 
power  who  have  preserved  their  settlements.  The 
whole  of  the  interior,  from  within  a  few  miles  of  the 
extreme  points  of  Salatin  on  the  north  to  Sooloo  on  the 
south,  from  near  Pontiana  on  the  west,  to  Coti  on  the 
east,  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Dyaks — the  aborigines 
of  the  island.*  From  intercourse  with  more  civilized 
strangers,  the  natives  who  live  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
coasts  differ  materially  in  their  spirit  and  habits  from 
their  brethren  in  the  interior.  They  are  represented 
as  tractable  and  mild  in  disposition,  though  so  stupid 
or  pusillanimous  as  to  submit  to  every  indignity  with- 
out resistance.  They  are  subject  to  Moslem  chiefs, 
who  have  established  themselves  on  the  banks  of  the 
rivers,  and  who  of  course  do  all  they  can  to  extend 
their  authority.  The  mass  of  the  natives  under  these 
sultans,  remain  unconverted  to  the  Mahomedan  faith. 
The  population  of  the  interior  is  cut  up  into  innumera- 
ble tribes,  who  either  associate  for  the  sake  of  mutual 
protection  and  pillage,  or  maintain  a  separate  indepen- 
dency. The  smaller  rivers  are  generally  in  the  pos- 
session of  a  distinct  tribe  ;  the  larger  ones,  whose 
banks  are  sufficiently  extensive,  accommodate  a  num- 
ber of  them.  They  are  described  as  bearing  a  gene- 
ral resemblance  to  each  other,  and  being  very  unlike 
all  their  neighbors.     For  symmetry  of  form,  strength 

*  It  is  said  there  are  other  savages  in  Borneo  distinguished  by  other 
names^  than  Dyak,  though  much  like  them  in  appearance  and  habita, 


BORNEO.  323 

and  agility  of  muscle,  and  the  most  unyielding  cour- 
age and  endurance,  the  aboriginese  of  Borneo  claim  a 
high  distinction  among  their  fellow  men.  The  friend-* 
iy  disposition  expressed  by  some  of  their  most  power- 
ful tribes  towards  Europeans,  presents  an  opening  to 
foreign  intercourse  and  influence  ;  while  their  active, 
sturdy  habits,  so  diiFerent  from  their  Malayan  neigh- 
bors, furnish  a  most  promising  field  of  culture  to  the 
philanthropist  and  Christian.  But  alas,  while  this 
moral  scene  glows  with  beauty  in  the  distant  perspec- 
tive, the  foreground  is  filled  up  with  every  wreck  and 
ruin  of  humanity.  Regarding  the  Dyaks  in  their 
present  estate,  it  would  be  difficult — impossible  to  find 
their  equals  in  all  that  disgraces  and  degrades  human 
nature.  Others  are  far  below  them  in  mental  and 
bodily  enervation,  but  we  read  of  none  so  debased  in 
the  scale  of  depravity.  In  unprovoked,  unrestrained 
barbarity,  they  exceed  the  American  Indian,  the  Cha- 
rib,  or  the  New  Zealander.  How  much  they  need  the 
blessings  of  Christianity,  may  be  gathered  from  their 
present  mode  of  life.  War  is*their  business,  murder 
their  pastime,  and  the  trophies  of  cruelty  their  proud- 
est distinction.  Nothing  is  too  high  for  their  daring ; 
nothing  too  low  for  their  despicable  cruelty.  All  who 
belong  not  to  their  confederacy  are  reputed  enemies, 
whose  heads  they  endeavor  to  secure  at  any  hazard 
and  by  any  means.  The  unfair  and  savage  manner 
in  which  they  prosecute  their  warlike  expeditions,  or 
rather  their  expeditions  in  search  of  human  heads,  is  ab- 
horrent beyond  all  parallel.  Insulated  huts — defense- 
less campongs — unwary  fishermen — wretched  strag- 
glers— old  and  young  of  either  sex,  are   alike  their 

28* 


324  BORNEO, 

prey.  The  men  and  elder  women  are  inevitably 
murdered — the  young  women  and  cliildren  they  con- 
vert into  their  slaves.  In  an  expedition  of  Selgie^ 
one  of  the  most  powerful  chiefs,  which  consumed  three 
months,  they  took  seven  hundred  heads.  Such  is  the 
importance  attached  to  a  warrior  who  possesses  many 
headsj  that  he  takes  his  place  in  the  presence  of  the 
rajah  with  the  air  of  exalted  worth ;  while  those  who 
are  destitute  of  these  distinguishing  trophies  are  glad 
to  creep  into  any  corner  to  escape  notice. 

Human  heads  are  made  to  grace  the  occurrence  of 
every  important  event.  They  are  employed  to  celebrate 
a  Dyak's  birth,  and  consecrate  his  marriage ;  to  miti- 
gate his  diseases,  and  appease  his  spirit  after  death. 
Marriage  is  always  referred  to  the  rajah,  who  calls 
before  him  the  young  man  and  the  father  of  the  girl. 
If  the  latter  can  produce  ten  heads,  the  former  must 
show  half  the  number,  in  the  expectation  that  when  his 
age  equals  the  other,  the  emblems  of  their  bravery 
will  be  alike.  If  the  young  man  is  unable  to  produce 
the  requisite  number,  he  obtains  a  few  friends,  and 
sallies  forth  in  search  of  the  deficiency,  well  aware  if 
he  do  not  succeed,  his  lasting  disgrace  shall  be  the 
consequence.  Every  head  is  submitted  to  a  close  ex- 
amination, and  none  but  those  of  receut  victims  are 
admissible.  A  part  of  the  ceremony  consists  in  both 
parties'  taking  a  head  in  each  hand  and  dancing 
around  each  other,  with  the  most  extravagant  gestures^ 
amidst  the  applauses  of  the  rajah  and  people.  Upon 
the  death  of  the  chief,  the  mound  in  which  the  body 
is  deposited  must  be  studded  with  fresh  heads,  as  the 
most  acceptable  offering  to  the  deceased.     No  warrior 


BORNEO.  325 

can  presume  (o  make  a  visit  of  condolence  to  the  fam- 
ily, without  bringing  at  least  one  head  for  the  occa- 
sion. During  the  first  year  or  two,  these  heads  are 
occasionally  changed.  All  kinds  of  sickness  are  sup- 
posed to  be  under  the  influence  of  mahgnant  spirits, 
whom  nothiug  can  so  well  propitiate  as  human  heads. 

What  mournful  ravages  must  a  custom  so  preva- 
lent and  desolating  spread  throughout  this  vast  island  ! 
What  numbers  of  victims  are  annually  required,  for 
such  numberless  purposes  !  What  can  prevent  a  to- 
tal and  speedy  extermination  of  all  these  ignorant,  ill- 
fated  tribes,  if  Christian  charity  slumber  much  longer 
over  their  appeals  for  mercy?  In  their  amusements, 
and  sometimes  even  in  their  domestic  economy,  the 
same  reckless  disregard  for  human  life  is  evinced. 
They  are  extravagantly  fond  of  cock-fighting,  and 
stake  almost  every  thing  they  can  command  upon  the 
game.  If  the  sum  be  lost  and  not  paid  within  twen- 
ty-four hqxirs,  the  winner  has  a  legal  right  to  dis- 
patch his  debtor,  and  he  generally  does  it.  Upon  an 
expedition,  if  the  rajah's  appetite  craves  any  thing 
fresh,  and  an  inferior  animal  is  not  at  hand,  one  of  his 
train  is  butchered,  and  served  up  as  a  substitute. 
When  the  men  of  wealth  bury  their  treasure,  which  is 
a  common  custom,  they  uniformly  destroy  the  slaves 
who  assisted  them,  that  the  secret  of  the  depository 
might  be  confined  to  themselves. 

It  is  difficult  to  determine  what  ideas  upon  religion 
the  Dyaks  entertain.  They  have  no  apparent  dread 
of  dying.  The  great  and  only  fear  is  the  loss  of  their 
heads,  and  this  they  deprecate  more  than  the  majority 
in  Christian  lands  do  the  loss  of  their  souls.     Yet 


326  BORNEO. 

there  are  some  glimmerings  of  a  future  state  in  their 
darkened  minds,  as  appears  from  their  burial  rites, 
which  are  grounded  upon  a  belief  in  the  continued 
existence  of  the  spirit.  That  they  have  no  ideas  of  a 
retribution  for  their  present  actions,  appears  very  evi- 
dent from  their  brutal  conduct,  unless  they  reverse  all 
natural  sentiments  of  right  and  wrong,  or  believe  that 
the  awards  of  eternity  are  to  be  equally  reversed. 
Islamism,  which  has  planted  itself  upon  their  coasts, 
and  succeeded  in  captivating  the  Bugis,  Malays,  and 
neighboring  tribes,  has  not  been  able  to  bow  these 
sturdy  spirits  to  its  yoke. 

It  is  said  by  some  of  the  older  writers,  that  their 
language  contains  many  words  common  to  the  Malay 
and  the  Sanscrit.  Thy  appear  to  have  no  written 
characters,  as  Mr.  D.  met  but  three  men  who  could 
write,  and  they  had  been  taught  the  Bugis  language, 
and  were  regarded  as  prodigies.  Towards  the  center, 
and  inclining  to  the  north,  the  natives  are  described 
as  still  less  tractable — roving  about  the  woods,  naked 
and  wild — neither  dwelling  in  huts,  nor  cultivating 
the  ground,  nor  even  associating  with  each  other. 
These  miserable  creatures  are  hunted  by  the  more 
civilized  Dyaks  as  an  amusement.  Their  infant  chil- 
dren, whom  the  mothers  cradle  upon  the  pendant 
branches  of  trees,  are  shot  like  monkeys.  The  cap- 
tured men  are  of  course  beheaded,  and  the  women 
spared  only  when  young.  The  children  are  taken 
home  and  made  their  drudges.  To  prevent  their  es- 
cape, which  their  masters  declare  is  invariable,  if  in- 
trusted with  their  liberty,  they  cut  off  a  foot,  and  stick 
the  stump  in  a  bamboo  of  molten  damar.     This  pre- 


BORNEO. 


327 


vents  their  running,  and  secures  their  services  in  pad- 
dlinof  their  boats.  The  north  and  north-west  coast 
has  seldom,  if  ever,  been  visited  by  Europeans.  The 
Bugis  and  other  traders  affirm  that  it  is  by  far  the 
richest  part  of  the  island,  containing  a  dense  popula- 
tion, who  carry  on  an  extensive  traffic  with  Cambod- 
jia  and  the  neighboring  islands.  The  Cambodjia  lan- 
guage is  as  much  employed  as  any  other.  Near  Pon- 
tiana  are  a  large  number  of  Chinese,  who  work  the 
mines,  and  who  are  accessible  to  the  Christian  mis- 
sionary. Mr.  Medhurst  visited  them  a  few  years  since, 
and  published  an  interesting  account  of  his  tour. 

Borneo,  as  a  missionary  field  might  be  immediately  oc- 
cupied. Our  ignorance  prevents  us  from  stating  very 
definitely  its  advantages  for  Christian  enterprise.  No 
doubt  serious  obstacles  will  oppose  the  work,  and 
much  self-denial  and  perseverance  will  be  necessary 
in  its  prosecution ;  still  there  are  stations  where  mis- 
sionaries would  be  protected,  and  whence  encroach- 
ments might  be  gradually  made  upon  the  interior,  un- 
til the  length  and  breadth  of  this  extensive  land  was 
possessed.  The  Romish  propaganda  have  been  ad- 
dressed upon  the  subject  by  a  child  of  that  church, 
who  formerly  resided  upon  the  island  ;  but  his  Holi- 
ness, contrary  to  his  usual  vigilance  and  promptness 
of  action,  has  thus  far  neglected  the  opportunity.  The 
writer  met  the  present  resident  of  Pontiana  at  Batavia. 
He  says  the  natives  near  the  foreign  settlement  are 
heartily  sick  of  Mahomedan  tyranny,  and  would  glad- 
ly exchange  their  faith  to  be  released  from  their  mas- 
ters. The  number  of  Dyaks  in  the  vicinity  of  this 
{Station  is  supposed  to  aniount  to  two  or  three  huu^ 


328  BORNEO. 

dred  thousand,  besides  twenty  or  thirty  thousand 
Chinese,  and  a  number  of  Malays.  He  appeared  de- 
sirous that  missionaries  should  be  sent,  and  would  no 
doubt  assist  in  their  establishment.  Here  then,  the 
first  mission  might  be  planted.  Sambas,  and  Banjar- 
massin,  also  in  the  possession  of  the  Dutch,  will  pro- 
bably be  found  equally  accessible  and  inviting. 

From  Mr.  Dalton's  account,  the  natives  of  the  in^ 
terior  are  very  desirous  of  cultivating  an  intercourse 
with  Europeans.  Selgie,  the  most  powerful  chief  in 
the  south-east  division  of  the  island,  said  that  he  would 
even  desist  from  the  custom  of  cutting  off  heads,  and 
submit  to  Europeans  in  any  thing,  if  he  could  enjoy 
the  advantages  of  their  trade.  Mr.  D.  thinks  a  traffic 
with  these  people  would  be  both  practicable  and  pro- 
fitable. The  rich  productions  of  their  country  might 
be  received  for  the  superabundant  articles  of  Europe- 
an growth  and  manufacture.  Though  their  object 
in  wishing  to  form  an  acquaintance  with  foreigners, 
is  purely,  secular  advantage,  yet  it  proves  that  they 
are  far  from  being  averse  to  Europeans,  or  wishing  to 
keep  aloof  from  them.  And  if  an  honorable  trade  is 
to  be  a  means  of  introducing  the  Gospel,  the  time  is 
no  doubt  approaching,  when  the  heart  of  many  a 
godly  merchant  shall  leap  at  the  honor  of  such  an 
enterprise,  and  his  "swift  ships"  fly  upon  these  errands 
of  mercy. 

It  is  not  to  be  concealed  that  the  pirates  which  in- 
fest parts  of  the  coast,  and  the  mouths  of  some  of  the 
rivers,  are  numerous  and  desperate.  Plunder  is  their 
only  object,  force  their  only  law,  and  destruction  the 
only  quarter  they  show  ;  but  they  are  principally  con? 


BORNEO.  329 

fined  to  the  east  and  south-east  coasts,  and  there 
would  be  no  necessity  of  going  near  their  districts,  at 
least  with  vessels  which  would  invite  an  attack  or 
could  not  repel  one.  Between  different  parts  of  the 
coast  and  some  of  its  most  accessible  points,  and 
Singapore,  there  is  a  constant  trade  kept  up,  and  the 
missionary  residing  at  the  latter  place  often  visits  their 
proas  and  supplies  them  with  Christian  books.  Here, 
then,  is  another  opening,  through  which  the  Gospel 
might  be  introduced,  not  only  in  the  way  of  tracts, 
but  through  the  visitation  of  the  living  teacher.  As 
in  thetjase  of  Mr.  Dalton,  these  traders  might  be  bound 
to  protect  the  missionary,  by  the  strongest  guarantee 
they  know,  and  thus  he  might  gain  access,  under  a 
security,  which  independent  of  special  protection  fi'om 
on  high,  would  give  him  comparative  safety. 


CHAPTER    XV. 


CELEBES. SOOLOO. 

Celebes,  a  short  distance  east  of  Borneo,  is  anoth- 
er island  of  much  importance,  and  teeming  with  sav- 
age inhabitants.  It  is  remarkable  for  the  martial  spirit, 
commercial  enterprize  and  piratical  atrocities  of  many 
of  its  inhabitants.  The  most  prominent  nations  are 
the  Bugis  and  Macassar  or  Mengasar-  tribes.  They 
speak  different  languages,  or  more  properly  different 
dialects  of  the  same  language, — the  written  character 
being  nearly  the  same.  The  language  of  Goa  or  Ma- 
cassar is  peculiarly  soft  and  easy  of  acquisiton,  but 
not  so  copious  as  the  Bugis — the  latter  having  em^ 
bodied  in  their  vocabulary  a  greater  number  of  foreign 
words.  The  literary  compositions  in  both  are  nu- 
merous. They  consist  principally  of  historical  de- 
tails, written  since  the  introduction  of  Mahomedanism^ 
in  the  early  part  of  the  sixteenth  century;  traditions 
of  more  early  times,  romances,  poetical  compositions 
of  love,  war  and  the  chase.  They  have  a  paraphrase 
of  the  Koran,  and  several  works  translated,  most  pro*- 
bably  from  the  Javanese  and  Arabic  ;  each  particular 
State  records  its  public  events  as  they  occur. 

29 


332  CELEBES. 

In  intellectual  vigor,  and  various  acquirements^ 
these  nations  far  surpass  the  Malays,  and  many  other 
of  the  neighboring  tribes.  Here  then  are  advantages 
for  missionary  labor,  which  are  seldom  found  among 
such  otherwise  barbarous  creatures.  They  have  extend* 
ed  their  commerce  from  the  western  shores  of  Siam 
to  the  eastern  coast  of  New-Holland.  Excepting  the 
Arabs,  they  are  the  only  traders  of  consequence 
throughout  the  Archipelago.  They  have  the  charac- 
ter of  fair  dealing  in  trade,  but  are  most  determined 
pirates — preying  especially  upon  their  weaker  neigh- 
bors, the  Malays,  whom  they  regard  as  their  inferiors. 
The  Mahomedan  religion  prevails  in  the  south-west, 
but  in  the  north  and  central  parts  of  the  island  they 
are  Pagans,  or  scarcely  have  a  religion.  The  abo- 
rigines of  the  island,  possessing  the  interior,  are  stri- 
kingly allied  in  appearance  and  customs  to  the  Dyaks 
of  Borneo.  They  are  known  by  the  same  name. 
By  the  Dutch  they  are  denominated  Alfores.  The 
fondness  of  both  for  cutting  oiF  heads  is  the  same — 
their  languages  are  different. 

Mandhaar,  on  the  west  coast  of  Celebes,  was  visited 
by  Mr.  Dalton.  The  mountains  are  stupendous,  and 
can  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  one  hundred  miles  or 
more,  at  sea.  For  more  than  twelve  miles  along  the 
shore  where  he  landed,  the  houses  almost  join  each 
other.  The  people  are  in  general  miserably  poor,  and 
live  upon  the  meanest  fare.  All  the  rice  which  they 
use,  is  brought  from  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles.  None  but  the  chief  people  can  afford  this 
luxury.  The  inhabitants  generally  live  upon  sago, 
which,  though  of  a  coarse  quality,  grows  most  luxuri- 


CELEBES.  ,  333 

antly,  and  imposes  no  other  tax  upon  the  indolence  of 
the  natives  than  the  labor  of  collecting  it.  Cocoa-nuts 
of  the  most  delicious  flavor  abound.  For  the  dis- 
tance of  seventy  miles,  the  whole  coast  is  adorned 
with  cocoa-nut  trees,  extending  in  many  places  to  the 
base  of  the  mountains,  half  a  mile  from  the  shore. 
These  constitute  a  principal  article  of  trade, — being  ex- 
ported in.  great  numbers  to  every  part  of  the  eastern 
coast  of  Borneo,  where  very  few  are  produced. 

Shell-fish  enter  largely  into  the  common  food  of 
the  inhabitants.  These  they  take  when  the  tide  ebbs. 
The  shore  is  sandy,  and  the  sea  retires  at  least  four 
miles,  at  which  time  the  whole  population  is  in  mo- 
tion, following  the  water  as  it  recedes,  and  picking  up 
crabs  and  various  kinds  of  craw-fish.  When  the  tide 
flows  again,  diflerent  parties  get  into  their  small  ca- 
noes and  paddle  to  their  houses.  Fish  caught  in  nets, 
is  eaten  only  by  the  wealthier  class,  for  though  very 
cheap,  it  proves  too  dear  for  those  who  have  nothing 
with  which  to  purchase  it.  The  only  articles  the 
common  people  are  obliged  to  buy,  are  tobacco  and 
salt,  and  to  pay  for  these,  all  the  women  and  children  of 
the  community  spend  their  time  in  making  sarongs,* 
for  which  they  obtain  a  sufiicient  sum  to  procure  the 
required  articles,  and  to  furnish  the  master  of  the 
house  with  a  small  allowance  for  gambling.  The 
rajah  and  his  family,  and  all  others  who  can  meet  the 
required  expense,  smoke  great  quantities  of  opium. 
From  the  effects  of  this  drug,  they  are  constantly  in  a 
state  of  stupidity,  and   refuse  to  see   strangers  until 

*  A  native  garment. 


3^34  CELEBES. 

time  is  given  them  to  recover.  They  sell  their  gold 
dust,  in  which  the  rajah  and  some  of  his  brothers  are 
rich,  for  nothing  but  opium,  muskets,  swivels  and  gun- 
powder. 

MamoodjoO;  the  principal  campong  in  the  district 
of  Mandhaar,  is  the  residence  of  about  forty  rajahs^ 
each  of  whom  has  a  separate  dominion  in  the  interior, 
although  they  prefer  living  together  on  the  coast. 
Their  countries  produce  gold,  of  which  they  obtain 
sufficient  for  their  wants.  Many  of  them  appear  to 
possess  a  large  quantity  of  the  metal,  and  although 
cautious  in  every  other  kind  of  expenditure,  they  wil- 
lingly bring  forth  any  amount  to  pay  for  the  means  of 
carrying  on  their  wars  and  piracies,  and  to  purchase 
enough  of  opium  to  keep  them  in  a  constant  delirium 
of  intoxication. 

From  the  point  of  Mandhaar  to  Kylie,  including 
that  place,  there  are  about  fifty  rajahs,  few  of  whom 
have  less  than  ten  proas,  and  some  even  upwards  of 
one  hundred.  The  smallest  of  these  carry  one  bar- 
rel of  gun  powder — the  largest  five,  beside  which  they 
keep  a  quantity  on  shore.  The  large  supply  of  this 
article  in  constant  demand,  is  smuggled  from  Java, 
and  obtained  from  American  vessels,  near  Pen  an  g. 
Such  is  the  miserable  quality  of  the  poVv^dersold  them 
by  the  Americans,  who  employ  samples  of  a  good 
quality  to  deceive  them,  that  it  is  necessary  to  prime 
with  another  kind ;  and  the  muskets  are  composed  of 
such  materials,  that  you  are  said  to  be  nearly  as  safe  in 
being  shot  at,  as  in  firing  them.  Still  these  numer- 
ous pirates  commit,  at  times,  dreadful  ravages.  Two 
Dutch  vessels  were  taken  by  them  in  1828,  and  every 


CELEBES.  335 

soul  on  board  murdered.  The  inhabitants  of  Kylie 
are  proverbial  every  where  for  these  atrocities.  For 
the  last  twenty  years  the  rajah  has  carried  on  his  de- 
predations in  these  seas,  and  besides  his  other  captures 
has  taken  many  Europeans,  a  few  of  whom  it  is 
thought  are  still  living  in  slavery,  in  Borneo. 

Except  Macassar,  no  part  of  Celebes  has  been  con- 
quered by  Europeans.  In  Boni  not  a  foot  of  ground 
has  been  retained.  Waagoo,  or  Waju,  is  still  less 
known,  and  every  other  part  of  the  country  not  at  all. 
All  the  native  States  retain  their  primitive  greatness, 
and  the  most  enlightened  of  them  have  never  been 
visited  by  Europeans.  The  writer  met  a  Dutch  offi- 
cer, who  is  perhaps  the  only  exception  to  the  above 
remark.  He  had  penetrated  some  distance  into  the 
interior,  and  spoke  very  highly  of  the  intelligence  and 
hospitahty  of  one  of  the  native  queens,  whose  district 
he  visited. 

The  northern  parts  of  Celebes  are  inhabited  by  a 
number  of  native  tribes,  who  have  never  been  con- 
verted to  Mahomedanism,  and  do  not  appear  to  be 
wedded  to  any  heathenish  superstitions.  They  are 
strongly  attached  to  the  Dutch,  and  acknowledge  them 
as  their  superiors  and  lords.  They  appear  early  to 
have  attracted  the  attention  of  the  Christians  in  Holr 
land,  and  were  furnished  with  a  minister  who  bap- 
tized large  numbers,  and  established  among  them 
schools  with  native  teachers.  Still  this  promising  field 
was  but  scantily  supplied  with  the  means  of  culture, 
and  during  the  ravages  of  the  French  revolution  it 
was  quite  forgotten  by  the  churches  at  home.  On 
the  arrival  of  the  first  permanent  missionary  of  the 

29* 


336  sooLoo. 

new  era,  much  interest  was  manifested  by  the  native 
chiefs,  and  descendants  of  Christians,  to  have  schools 
re-opened  auiong  them.     Such  were  the  predilections 
in  favor  of  Christianity,  that    in  a  few  years,  more 
than  six  hundred  persons  were  admitted  to  the  church. 
Some  of  the  rajahs  offered  themselves  as  instructors 
of  their  own  people.     In   1831,  Messrs.    Reidel  and 
Schwartz,  missionaries  of  the  Netherlands  society,  ar- 
rived in  the  island.     After  exploring  the  whole  coun- 
try, they  fixed  upon  two  places  for   their  permanent 
abodes.     Mr,  Reidel  remains  at   Tondano   and   Mr. 
Schwartz  at  Longowan.     These  brethren  are  great- 
ly encouraged  with  their  prospects  of  usefulness.    The 
schools  in  the  environs  of  Manado  are  numerous  and 
increasing,  the  church  prospers,  and  the  Lord  evident- 
ly blesses  the  labors  of  his  servants.      "  The  Dutch 
government    has  greatly  aided  the  missionaries  in  the 
prosecution  of.  their  work.     There  is  also  a  spirit  of 
improvement  in  the  external  circumstances  of  the  na- 
tives, which  always  accompanies  the  progress  of  the 
pure  Gospel.     We    shall  soon  hear  more    respecting 
the  great   things  which  the  Redeemer  has  done   for 
these  poor  islanders."* 

Farther  to  the  north  lies  the  island  of  Sooloo,  and 
a  small  group  known  by  that  name.  Though  com- 
paratively limited  in  dimensions,  Sooloo  is  represent- 
ed by  Dampier  as  one  of  the  most  interesting  islands 
in  this  part  of  the  world.  It  is  celebrated  for  the 
large  quantity  of  ambergris  thrown  upon  its  shores, 
as  also  for  its  valuable  pearl   fishery.     Beside  these 

*  Chinese  Repository,  Vol.  IL 


eooLoo.  337 

sources  of  wealth,  it  abounds  in  wax,  gold,  birds'  nests^ 
beche  de  mer,  and  other  articles  of  traffic.  Writers 
differ  about  the  number  and  character  of  its  inhabit- 
ants. All  agree  respecting  the  power  of  the  sultan, 
whose  dominions  include  the  neighboring  islands  and 
part  of  the  coast  of  Borneo.  Some  affirm  that  it  has 
'•'a  vigorous  government,  a  numerous  fleet,  and  an 
army  of  fifty  thousand  well  equipped  men,  animated 
by  superstition  and  united  in  hatred  of  the  Christian 
name."  The  Spaniards  made  two  successive  at- 
tempts to  reduce  it  to  their  authority,  but  were  repell- 
ed. In  a  third  attack  they  gained  possession,  but 
were  soon  obliged. to  abandon  it.  The  fourth  and  last 
effort  resulted  in  their  disgrace,  and  in  a  successful 
reprisal  made  by  the  natives,  and  some  of  their  Ma- 
homedah  neighbors,  who  laid  waste  the  Spanish  pos- 
sessions for  three  years. 

For  the  speedy  conversion  of  tlie  numerous  tribes 
inhabiting  the  islands  of  these  seas,  including  the  north 
of  Borneo,  where  Spanish  influence  is  not  felt,  and 
the  Roman  Catholic  religion  is  not  acknowledged,  we 
must  call  upon  those  who  possess  the  means  of  inter- 
course and  traffic  with  the  nations,  and  whose  inval- 
uable talent,  it  is  hoped,  will  no  longer  be  laid  up  in 
a  napkin. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 


PHILIPPINE     ISLANDS. 

About  north-east  from  Sooloo  is  situated  the  island 
of  Mindanao — Magindanao  of  the  charts.  It  contains 
nearly  as  many  square  miles  as  the  largest  of  the 
Philippines.  The  Spaniards,  in  the  zenith  of  their 
glory,  repeatedly  attempted  the  subjugation  of  this 
island  as  well  as  its  neighbors,  but  were  either  repulsed 
or  soon  obliged  to  abandon  their  dearly  gained  pos- 
sessions. In  one  expedition  it  is  said  they  did  not 
even  land,  being  appalled  by  the  crowd  of  armed  na- 
tives who  lined  the  shore.  They  did,  however,  suc- 
ceed in  gaining  a  footing  on  its  south-western  part, 
where  they  still  have  a  small  useless  settlement. 

The  island  is  said  to  be  peopled  throughout,  with 
an  industrious  race  of  men,  many  of  them  from  the 
shores  of  Cambodjia.  The  captain  of  a  Cochin-Chi- 
na  junk,  who  had  frequently  visited  this  island,  and 
pthers  of  the  Sooloo  group,  declared  that  they  were  as 
thickly  populated  as  any  part  of  northern  China.  Mr. 
Dalton  was  informed  that  from  Cochin-China,  and  the 
native  States  about  the  mouth  of  Cambodjia  river, 
more  than  one  hundred  proas  of  different  sizes  sailed 


340  PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS. 

annually  to  Mindanao,  and  that  each  of  them  con- 
tained from  fifty  to  five  hundred  emigrants.  Whether 
this  be  exaggeration  or  fact,  another  writer  affirms, 
that  "the  center  and  southern  part  of  the  island,  and 
particularly  the  shores  of  its  numerous  inlets  and  in- 
terior lakes,  are  crowded  with  an  immense  popula- 
tion." "  Whilo  vessels  of  respectable  size  and  force, 
trade  without  danger,  at  these  places,  depredations  are 
often  committed  on  the  defenseless,  both  by  land  and 
sea."  They  have  a  peculiar  language,  though  they 
understand  the  Malay.      The  religion  is  Islamism. 

To  the  west  lies  the  island  of  Palawan,  which  is 
also  said  to  contain  a  dense  population.  Large  num- 
bers of  emigrants  annually  arrive,  who  are  obliged  to 
spread  themselves  over  other  islands.  Magellan  pos- 
sesses  much  of  the  character  of  the  two  already  no- 
ticed. 

Including  these  islands,  and  extending  north  to  the 
Bashee  passage,  is  the  Philippine  group.  According 
to  the  authority  of  one*  who  resided  some  time  in  Ma- 
nilla, '^  the  Spanish  possessions  extend  from  the  Batan 
islands  on  the  north  to  Mindanao  on  the  south,  and 
from  Paragua  or  Palawan  on  the  west,  to  the  Mariani 
islands  on  the  east ;  but  their  sovereignty  over  all 
these  limits  is  not  equally  full.  The  Batan  islands 
appear  to  be  rather  an  ecclesiastical  than  a  civil  de- 
pendency. The  Spanish  possessions  thus  defined, 
comprehend  twenty-eight  provinces,  of  the  greater 
part  of  which  there  are  no  published  accounts.      They 

*  C.  W.  Kin^,  Esq.,  from  whose  manuscript,  in  connection  with  a 
small  work  published  a  few  years  ago  in  India,  these  extracts  are 
taken. 


PHILIPPINE     ISLANDS.  341 

contain  a  population  of  three  millions  and  a  half. 
These  are  generally  found  along  the  shores  of  the  sea, 
around  the  bays,  and  upon  the  banks  of  the  rivers  ; 
the  interior  of  the  islands  being  yet  a  dense  forest. 
In  the  depths  of  these  forests  some  wretched  aborigines 
still  exist, — the  relics  of  tribes  dispossessed  by  their 
Malayan  invaders." 

In  a  volume  published  in  India,  and  reviewed  in 
the  Chinese  Repository,  it  is  said  that  in  "  situation, 
riches,  fertility,  and  salubrity,  the  Philippines  are  not 
exceeded.  Nature  has  here  revealedj  according  to  all 
that  poets  and  painters  have  imagined,  the  unbounded 
luxuriance  of  Asiatic  scenery.  The  lofty  chains  of 
mountains,  the  rich  and  extensive  slopes  which  form 
their  bases,  the  ever  varying  change  of  forest,  and  sa- 
vannah, of  rivers  and  lakes,  and  the  yet  blazing  volca- 
noes in  the  midst  of  forests,  coeval  perhaps  with  their 
first  eruption — all  stamp  the  works  of  Deity  with  the 
mighty  emblems  of  His  creative  and  destroying  pow- 
ers." Rice,  sugar,  coffee,  cocoa,  hemp,  tobacco,  cot- 
ton, indigo,  and  many  kinds  of  delicious  fruits,  are 
among  the  articles  of  produce  which  render  these  isl- 
ands highly  valuable. 

Of  the  numerous  inhabitants  of  the  Philippines  but 
a  few  hundreds  are  Europeans,  the  remainder  are  Ne- 
groes, Malays,  Mestizos  and  Creoles.  The  negroes 
are  doubtless  the  original  inhabitant--^  of  the  islands. 
They  are  small  in  stature,  woolly  headed,  and  thick 
lipped,  some  black,  and  others  of  a  mulatto  complex- 
ion. They  live  in  low  huts  of  canes,  sow  rice,  maize, 
potatoes,  <fec.,  and  come  down  to  the  neighboring  vil- 
lages to  exchange  wax,  deer,  and  fruits  of  the  forest, 


342  PHILIPPINE     ISLANDS. 

for  articles  of  necessity.  They  are  divided  into  many 
tribes,  and  are  distinguished  by  peculiar  habits  and 
dialects.  The  most  degraded  of  them  are  described 
as  "  naked  vagrants,  without  home,  without  religion, 
with  no  other  shelter  than  that  which  the  rocks  and 
trees  afford  ;  satisfying  the  cravings  of  hunger  with 
wild  fruits  and  unhealthy  roots  ;  rarely  using  their 
bows  on  the  abundant  game  around  them,  though 
ready  enough  to  draw  them  against  their  fellow  men. 
Covered  from  head  to  foot  with  loathsome  scurf  and 
eruptions,  their  longest  life  rarely  exceeds  forty  years. 
The  oldest  of  them  is  recognized  as  chief.  They  in- 
ter their  dead  with  a  flint,  steel,  and  tinder,  a  hatchet 
and  a  piece  of  venison ;  and  the  passenger  is  obliged 
to  leave  at  the  grave  a  part  of  what  he  has  obtained  in 
barter,  or  caught  in  the  chase." 

"  The  Malays,  or  Indians,  as  they  are  called  by  the 
Spaniards,  appear  to  have  emigrated  to  this  country  at 
different  times,  and  from  different  parts  of  Borneo  and 
Celebes,  Those  of  the  provinces  are  a  proud  spirited 
race  of  men,  possessing  all  the  elements  of  greatness, 
though  for  three  hundred  years  they  had  been  ground 
to  the  earth  by  oppression — their  spirit  has  been  tor- 
tured by  abuse  and  contempt,  and  brutalized  by  igno- 
rance." The  same  writer  describes  the  Indian  as 
''  brave,  tolerably  faithful,  extremely  sensible  of  kind 
treatment,  and  feelingly  alive  to  injustice  and  con- 
tempt, proud  of  ancestry,  which  some  of  them  carry 
to  a  remote  epoch,  fond  of  dress  and  show,  hunting, 
riding,  and  other  field  exercises  ;  but  prone  to  gam- 
bling and  dissipation.  He  is  active,  industrious,  and 
remarkably  ingenious.     He  possesses  an  acute  ear  and 


PHILIPPINE    ISLANDS.  345 

a  good  taste  for  music  and  painting,  but  litde  inclina- 
tion for  abstruse  studies.  He  has  by  nature  excellent 
talents,  but  these  are  useless  from  want  of  instruction. 
The  little  he  has  received  has  rendered  him  fanatical 
in  religious  opinions^  and  long  contempt  and  hopeless 
misery  have  mingled  with  his  character  a  degree  of 
apathy  which  nothing  but  an  entire  change  of  system 
and  long  perseverance  will  eiface  from  it."  This^ 
however,  does  not  exhibit  the  worst  features  of  their 
character. 

'•'  Under  the  name  of  Mestizos  are  included  not  only 
the  descendants  of  Spaniards  by  Indian  women,  but 
also  those  of  Chinese,  who  are  in  general  whiter  than 
either  parent,  and  carefully  distinguish  themselves 
from  the  Indians.  The  Mestizos,  with  the  Creoles 
of  the  country,  like  those  of  all  colonies,  when  un- 
corrected by  an  European  education,  inherit  the  vices 
of  both  progenitors,  with  scarcely  any  of  the  virtues 
of  either.  Their  character  has  but  few  marked  traits. 
The  principal  ones  are  vanity,  industry,  and  trading 
ingenuity.  Money  is  their  god.  To  obtain  it  they 
assume  all  forms,  promise  and  betray,  submit  to  every 
thing,  trample  and  are  trampled  on.  All  is  alike  to 
them  if  they  can  obtain  their  end.  And  when  their 
wishes  are  answered,  they  dissipate  their  wealth  in 
law-suits,  firing  cannons,  fireworks,  illuminations,  pro- 
cessions on  feast  days  and  rejoicings,  in  gifts  to  the 
churches,  and  in  gambling.  This  anomaly  of  action 
is  the  business  of  their  lives.  Too  proud  to  consider 
themselves  as  Indians,  and  not  sufficiently  pure  in^ 
blood  to  be  acknowledged  as  Spaniards,  they  affect  the 
manners  of  the  last,  with  the  dress  of  the  firsts  and 

30 


344  PHILIPPINE    ISLANCST; 

despising,  are  despised  by  both.  Such  are  the  three 
great  classes  of  men  which  may  be  considered  as  na- 
tives of  the  Philippine  islands.  The  Creole  Span- 
iards, or  those  whose  blood  is  but  little  mingled  with 
Indian  ancestry,  pass  as  Spaniards.  Many  of  them  are 
respectable  merchants  and  men  of  large  property^ 
while  others  are  sunk  in  all  the  vices  of  the  Indians 
and  Mestizos," 

"The  Chinese  residents  retain  here,  as  in  every 
place,  their  national  character,  active  in  business,  and 
not  above  its  meanest  minutiae,  winning  their  way  by 
pliancy  and  presents — unprincipled  in  acquiring,  and 
gross  and  sensual  in  enjoying  their  gains.  Their 
close  combination,  and  large  share  in  the  most  profit- 
able and  least  laborious  employments,  have  always 
brought  on  them  the  envy  and  hatred  of  the  Indians^ 
Upon  the  complaints  of  the  latter,  government  has 
been  led  to  treat  them  severely.  Yet  they  have  proved 
themselves  serviceable  to  the  country,  and  its  other 
inhabitants.  Few  of  them  are  men  of  much  property^ 
though  doing  a  great  proportion  of  the  commercial 
business  of  the  country.  They  procure  licenses  to 
remain,  receive  baptism,  become  Roman  Catholics,  in- 
termarry and  hold  property,  but  when  able  to  return 
to  China  they  appear  not  to  regret  leaving  their  fami- 
lies and  their  faith  behind.  Their  number  is  proba- 
bly twenty  thousand,  which  is  a  mean  between  the* 
low  official  estimate,  and  common  opinion."  Such  is 
the  feeling  of  hostility  towards  the  Chmese,  that  they 
have  had  their  commerce  interrupted,  have  been  ex- 
pelled from  the  island,  and  sometimes  slaughtered  m 
great  numbers. 


I^HILIPPINE    ISLANDS.  345 

**  That  this  highly  favored  country  should  have  re- 
mained to  the  present  day  almost  a  forest,  is  a  circum- 
stance which  has  generally  excited  surprise,  and  has 
been  attributed  to  the  indolence  of  the  Spaniards  and 
Indians  ;  but  this  is  a  superficial  view  of  the-  subject. 
The  true  reason  is  "  because  there  is  no  security  for 
property."  Does  an  unfortunate  Indian  scrape  togeth- 
er a  few  dollars  to  buy  a  buffalo,  in  which  consists  his 
whole  riches  ?  Woe  to  him  if  it  be  known,  and  if  his 
house  stand  in  a  lonely  situation.  He  is  infallibly 
robbed.  Does  he  complain,  and  is  the  robber  caught? 
In  a  short  time  he  is  let  loose  again  to  take  ven- 
geance on  his  accuser,  and  renew  his  depredations. 
Hundreds  of  families  are  yearly  ruined  in  this 
way.  The  imperfect  mode  of  trial,  both  in  civil 
and  criminal  cases,  lays  them  open  to  a  thousand 
frauds." 

That  which  in  the  history  of  these  islands  is  most 
to  be  deplored,  and  which  has  been  perhaps  the  prin- 
cipal cause  of  the  ferocity  and  treachery  which  in  the 
East  characterise  Manilla  men*  is  their  religion. 
"  The  church  of  Rome  has  here  proselyted  to  itself 
the  entire  population.  The  natives  have  become 
bigoted  Papists.  The  services  of  the  church  are  ad- 
ministered by  nearly  one  thousand  "  frailes,"  ''  curas," 
''  cleros,"  <fec;  the  first  offices  being  held  by  the  Spanish 
clergy."  At  the  head  of  this  colonial  establishment 
is  an  archbishop,  who  has  three  suffragans  and  two 
hundred  and  fifty  Spanish  clergy,  besides  about  eight 

*  Such  is  the  revengeful  and  sanguinary  character  of  these  men, 
that  it  is  said  they  affect  the  insurance  of  the  ships  in  which  they  are 
(gmployed.  The'  massacre  of  1830  illustrates  the  ferocity  of  their 
<;harac£er. 


M6  PHILIPPINE      ISLANDS. 

hundred  natives.  The  influence  of  these  priests  is 
unbounded.  They  hold  the  minds  of  the  misera- 
ble natives  in  complete  subjection,  while  they  them- 
selves are  the  slaves  as  well  as  the  patrons  of  ini- 
quity. Their  ministrations  are  confined  to  the  al- 
tar and  the  confession  box.  "  Common  report  at- 
tributes to  the  priests  lives  deformed  with  the  gross- 
est immoralities.  In  the  obscurity  of  their  parishes^ 
much  concealment  to  their  licentious  conduct  is  not 
attempted,  nor  have  the  majority  of  them  refine- 
ment enough  to  think  it  becoming."  One  source 
of  vice  and  poverty  among  the  natives  is  the  num- 
ber of  religious  observances  imposed  upon  them. 
"  The  church  has  marked  out,  exclusive  of  Sundays, 
above  forty  days  in  the  year,  on  which  no  labor  must 
be  performed  throughout  the  island.  Besides  these, 
there  are  numerous  local  feasts,  in  honor  of  the  patron 
saints  of  towns  and  churches.  These  feasts  invaria- 
bly end  in  gambling,  drinking,  and  debauchery  of 
every  description. 

While  the  Spaniards  retain  the  possession  of  these 
islands  and  the  priests  bear  the  rule,  we  scarcely  see 
how  any  eftbrts  can  be  made  for  the  spiritual  welfare 
of  the  natives.  The  importation  of  Bibles  is  strictly 
prohibited.  Every  ship  is  searched,  and  the  most  se- 
rious consequences  might  result  to  those  who  incurred 
the  displeasure  or  even  the  suspicions  of  the  priests. 
The  city  of  Manilla,  which  contains  some  forty  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  and  is  described  as  an  agreeable 
tropical  residence,  would  be  a  most  advantageous  post 
for  missions.  Let  every  Christian  pray  that  the  pow- 
er of  the  Beast  may  be  destroyed,  and  the  scepter  of 
Jesus  be  extended  over  these  perishing  souls, 


CHAPTER   XVir 


LOO    CHOO    ISLANDS. 

North-East  from  the  Philippine  islands,  is  situa- 
ted the  Loo  Choo  group,  of  which  such  interesting  ac- 
counts have  been  furnished,  both  by  European  and 
Chinese  voyagers.  There  are  about  thirty-six  of 
these  islands,  subject  to  the  same  government,  though 
all  very  limited  in  dimensions.  The  largest  is  only 
fifty  miles  long,  and  twelve  or  fifteen  broad.  Like 
many  of  the  other  islands  described,  some  of  them  are 
represented  as  beautiful  spots.  "^From  a  commanding 
hight  above  the  ships,"  says  an  English  writer,  "  the 
view  is  in  all  directians  picturesque  and  delightful. 
On  the  one  hand  are  seen  the  distant  lands  rising 
from  the  wide  expanse  of  ocean,  while  the  clearness 
of  the  water  enables  the  eye  to  trace  all  the  coral 
reefs  which  protect  the  anchorage  immediately  below. 
To  the  south  is  the  city  of  Napafoo— the  vessels  lying 
at  anchor  in  the  harbor,  with  their  streamers  flying  ; 
and  in  the  intermediate  space,  appear  numerous  ham- 
Pets,  scattered  about  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers  which 
meander  in  the  valley  beneath.  Turning  to  the  east,, 
the   houses  of  Kint-ching,   the  capital  city,   built  in. 

aa* 


348  LOO    CHOO    ISLANDS. 

their  peculiar  style,  are  observed,  opening  from  among 
the  lofty  trees  which  surround  and  shade  them,  rising 
one  above  another  in  gentle  ascent  to  the  summit  of  a 
hill,  which  is  crowned  by  the  king's  palace  ;  the  inte- 
resting grounds  between  Napoff  and  Kint-ching, — a 
distance  of  some  miles,  being  ornamented  by  a  contin- 
uation of  villas  and  country  houses.  To  the  north, 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  the  higher  land  is  covered 
with  extensive  forests."  The  climate  is  also  said  to 
be  "one  of  the  most  propitious  in  the  world." 

But  it  is  not  only  the  scenery  and  salubrity  of  these 
islands  which  interest  those  who  visit  them.  The 
inhabitants  themselves,  though  small  in  stature,  and 
effeminate  in  appearance,  are  uniformly  described  as 
persons  of  great  intelligence  and  address.  Their  po- 
liteness, if  possible,  exceeds  that  of  the  Chinese.  It 
extends  through  all  classes  of  society,  and  often 
leads  to  such  compliments  and  professions  of  friend- 
ship, as  quite  nonpluss  the  other  party.  "  They  show 
more  good  sense,"  says  a  visitor,*  whose  knowledge 
of  the  Chinese  nation  is  extensive,  "than  we  had  ever 
seen  in  China.  By  their  questions  respecting  the 
trade,  which  several  European  nations  carried  on  at 
Canton,  they  discovered  much  geographical  know- 
ledge. They  were  able  to  converse  on  polities  with 
great  volubility." 

We  cannot,  however,  from  the  accounts  of  subse- 
quent writers,  fully  confide  in  that  high  estimate  of 
their  character  which  the  first  English  visitors  formed. 
Owing  to  the  novelty  of  their  circumstances,  they  no 

♦  Gutzlaff. 


LOO    CHOO    ISLANDS.  349 

doubt  acted  an  assumed  part,  and  made  every  thing 
appear  to  the  best  advantage  before  the  polite  guests, 
Gutzlaff"  declares  "  they  did  not  hesitate  to  tell  us  lies 
whenever  it  suited  their  purpose  ;  but  they  were  as 
ready  to  retract  what  they  had  utterred.  Upon  in- 
quiry we  found  that  they  had  among  them  the  same 
severe  punishments  as  at  Corea  ;  that  they  possessed 
arms  likewise,  but  are  averse  to  using  them."  Still 
he,  as  well  as  all  others,  represents  them  as  among  the 
finest  specimens  of  unchristianized  men.  From  a 
Chinese  account  it  appears  that  one  of  the  ancient 
kings  '•  laid  the  foundation  of  his  kingdom  by  military 
force,  and  that  till  this  day  there  is,  in  a  temple  dedi- 
cated to  him,  an  arrow  placed  before  the  tablets,  on 
which  his  name  is  inscribed,  and  which  tradition 
says  is  in  conformity  with  his  dying  will,  to  show  that 
his  kingdom  was  founded  on  military  prowess."* 

According  to  this  account,  "  the  supreme  power 
is  in  the  hands  of  the  prime  minister,  who  is  abso- 
lute. All  affairs  of  the  revenue,  the  designation  of 
the  army,  and  the  infliction  of  punishments,  are  under 
his  control,  although  the  form  of  reporting  to  the  king 
and  receiving  his  sanction,  is  observed.  This  ac- 
counts for  the  idea  suggested  to  captain  Maxwell,  of 
having  the  minister  address  the  king  of  England. 
The  letter  was  declined,  because  it  did  not  come  from 
the  Loo  Choo  King.  They  have  derived  from  China^. 
the  division  of  their  officers  into  nine  ranks,  and  they 
have  drawn  up  a  compendium  of  law,  from  the  Chi- 
nese penal  code. 

'*'  IixdO'CiUQese  Gleaner,  VT>i.  li. 


350  LOO    CHOO    ISLANDS. 

The  majority  of  the  people,  as  in  Japan,  under- 
stand the  Chinese  character,  but  do  not  know  how  to 
read  it  in  the  Mandarin  dialect.  Their  own  language 
seems  greatly  to  resemble  the  Japanese.  The  alpha- 
betical writing  is  nearly  of  the  same  form,  and  the 
letters  are  pronounced  in  the  same  way,  with  a  very 
few  exceptions.  In  imitation  of  the  Chinese  s^^stera, 
district  schools  have  been  established  by  the  king, 
and  the  examination  of  students  is  conducted  on  the 
same  plan.  The  king  gives  them  an  occasional  ban- 
quet, by  way  of  encouragement.  They  have  set  up 
the  image  of  Confucius,  and  study  carefully  the  com- 
mentary of  Choo-foo-tsze.  The  readiness  with  which 
they  acquire  a  smattering  of  the  English  language, 
evinces  an  uncommon  share  of  intellect,  as  well  as 
of  tact  in  its  employment.  "I  was  much  surprised," 
says  a  visitor,  ''to  find  a  person  in  such  a  spot,  speak 
tolerable  English,  and  was  answered  to  my  inquiries 
on  that  subject,  that  an  English  ship  had  been  at  the 
islands  three  years  before,  and  remained  a  few  days, 
in  which  time  he  (the  interpreter)  had  learned  what  I 
now  heard." 

Their  religion  is  that  of  Budha.  They  have  none 
of  the  sect  of  Taou-sze  ;  there  are  nuns  among  them. 
They  had  temples  in  the  thirteenth  century,  the 
foundations  of  which  have  long  since  disappeared. 
They  have  imitated  what  they  saw  in  China,  and 
have  even  imported  her  idols,  the  Q.ueen  of  heaven 
and  others.  According  to  their  accounts  a  priest  of 
Budha  was  driven  on  their  island  in  a  boat  about  A.  D. 
1275.  They  knew  not  whence  he  came  ;  but  he  com- 
menced a  line  of  priesthood,  which  has  been  kept  up 


LOO    CHOO    ISLANDS.  351 

ever  since.  As  in  China,  they  have  those  among 
them  who  pretend  to  point  out  propitious  spots  for 
graves,  though  none  of  them  profess  to  understand 
astrology.  As  a  nation  there  is  every  reason  to  be- 
heve  that  they  care  very  little  about  their  supersti- 
tions. "  When  they  heard  that  we  did  not  worship 
idols,"  says  Gutzlaff,  "  they  replied,  '  We  also  abhor 
this  worship ;  those  which  you  see  here  are  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Budhists,  and  we  do  not  batter  our  heads 
against  them.'  This  has  been  the  general  reply  of 
many  Mandarins,  when  I  inquired  upon  this  subject. 
They  disavow  practical  idolatry,  because  their  reason 
disapproves  the  theory  ;  yet  they  do  in  fact  persevere 
in  their  unreasonable  worship." 

Their  refusal  to  allow  Europeans  to  trade,  and 
the  pains  they  uniformly  take  to  prevent  intercourse 
between  strangers  and  themselves,  have  probably  been 
dictated  by  their  more  powerful  neighbors.  "  We  do 
not  doubt,"  says  the  writer  already  quoted,  "  that  they 
have  received  strict  orders  from  China  to  keep  stran- 
gers aloof,  and  to  treat  them  with  distance  and  re- 
serve, yet  they  were  too  good  natured  to  confess  it." 
If  by  dint  of  persuasion,  sour  looks,  or  even  lying, 
they  can  keep  foreigners  from  landing,  it  is  always 
done.  Their  reason  for  rejecting  the  application  of 
the  ''Lord  Amherst"  to  trade,  was  because  "their 
country  was  poor  and  unproductive  of  any  thing 
which  they  could  give  in  exchange  for  our  imports ; 
that  besides,  they  had  never  traded  with  the  English, 
and  therefore  this  would  be  an  innovation  contrary 
to  law."  In  this  case,  however,  they  had  those  to 
deal    with,   who,    though    they  did  not   insist  upon 


852     *  LOO    CHOO    ISLANDS. 

trading,  were  too  well  acquainted  with  the  nature  of 
such  prohibitions  to  be  frightened  by  them,  and  who, 
contrary  to  their  wishes  and  whims,  landed  when,  and 
wandered  where,  their  inclinations  directed.  They 
objected,  as  they  had  done  before,  to  the  distribution 
of  books  ;  but  their  objections  v/ere  overruled  by  the 
same  system  of  apparent  forwardness  and  unyielding 
perseverance  which  had  been  adopted  among  the 
Chinese. 

There  is  every  reason  to  believe,  that  here,  as  in 
China,  the  people  would  be  favorable  to  foreign  inter- 
course, and  that  all  the  opposition  to  it  originates  with 
the  government.  When  the  Mandarins  were  out  of 
the  way,  the  people  received  books  and  presents  with 
great  eagerness.  "  Whenever  we  gave  any  thing 
privately^  they  would  gladly  accept  it,  though  they 
took  the  books  in  preference  ;  but  every  thing  openly 
offered  them  was  always  declined.  The  practice  of 
medicine  drew  crowds  of  patients,  who  felt  the  supe- 
riority of  our  medical  skill,  and  received  Christian 
books  with  gladness." 

The  inquiry  remains  in  reference  to  these  inte- 
resting heathen,  what  shall  be  done, — what  ought  to 
be  done  for  their  eternal  welfare  ?  How  shall  these 
lovely  islands  be  reduced  to  the  dominion  of  Christ? 
Might  not  ships  visit  them — might  not  their  objec- 
tions to  an  honorable  trade  be  annulled — ousrht  we 
not  to  distribute  freely  among  them  the  written 
word  ? — and  who  knows  but  that  the  living  teacher 
might  force  himself  upon  them,— soon  dissipate  their 
groundless  fears,  and  prove  to  them  the  advantages  of 
|iis  preser^ce  j\nd  influence.     They  must  soon  be  au- 


LdO    CtiOO    ISLANDS;  353 

ilexed  to  the  kingdom  of  Jesus  5  and  it  is  high  time 
that  the  children  of  the  kingdom  should  attempt  some 
plan  for  their  immediate  advantage.  Ye  merchant- 
men, who  have  found  the  pearl  of  great  price,  to  you 
another  appeal  must  be  made.  When  will  you 
connect,  with  the  system  of  missionary  societies, 
missionary  agents^  and  missionary  presses,  mission-^ 
ary  ships  ? 


CHAPTER     XVIll 


JAPAN. 


Still  farther  to  the  north,  is  the  kingdom  or  em- 
pire of  Japan,  which  occupies  a  surface  of  more  than 
one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  square  miles,  and 
contains  a  population  of  twenty  or  thirty  millions  of 
souls.  It  consists  of  three  large  islands,  Niphon,  Kew 
Sew,  and  Sikokf,  surrounded  with  a  multitude  of 
smaller  ones,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  others,  stretching 
northward,  over  which  they  exercise  a  partial  domin- 
ion.  According  to  M.  M.  Brun,  "  the  whole  coun- 
try is  full  of  mountains  and  hills,  and  its  coasts  are 
beset  with  steep  rocks,  which  are  opposed  to  the 
waves  of  a  stormy  ocean^  The  plains  are  pervaded 
by  numerous  rivers  and  small  streams.  The  hillsj 
the  mountains,  and  the  plains,  present  the  interesting 
picture  of  human  industry,  amid  the  traces  of  the 
revolutions  of  nature.  These  islands  experience  by 
turns  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold.  The  summer 
heat  is  frequently  alleviated  by  sea  breezes.  In  win- 
ter the  north  and  north-west  winds  are  exceedingly 
sharp,  and  bring  along  with  them  an  intense  frost. 
During  the  whole  year  the  weather  is  variable,  and 

31 


S56  iAPJii^i 

much  rain  falls  in  the  rainy  season,  which  begins  at 
midsummer.  These  genial  rains  conspire  with  hu- 
man labor  and  manure  to  overcome  the  natural  ste^ 
rility  of  the  soil.  Every  spot  is  under  cultivation, 
with  the  exception  of  the  most  impracticable  moun- 
tains. Exempt  from  feudal  and  ecclesiastical  exac- 
tions, the  farmer  cultivates  the  ground  with  zeal  and 
success."  In  the  hands  of  such  laborious  husband- 
men the  country  is  rendered  exceedingly  productive^ 
It  is  said  that  the  tea  shrub  grows  without  culture  in 
the  hedges.  Precious  metals  and  minerals  also  abound. 

There  are  a  number  of  large  towns  in  the  empire^ 
some  of  which  contain  a  population  of  several  hun- 
dred thousands  of  souls.  The  capital  is  Miyako.  It 
is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  highly  cultivated  plain^ 
and  is  reported  to  contain  a  population  of  fifteen  hun- 
dred thousand  souls.  Don  Rodrigo.  who  visited  this 
city  more  than  two  centuries  ago,  declares  that  he  was 
occupied  from  seven  in  the  morning  until  evening,  in 
riding  around  its  walls  on  horseback.  He  was  great- 
ly surprised  at  the  magnificence  of  one  of  the  idol 
temples,  whose  unfinished  structure  gave  employment 
to  more  than  one  hundred  thousand  daily  laborers. 
The  huge  dimensions  of  the  idol  were  still  more  as- 
tounding. He  affirms  that  a  man  of  large  size  in  his 
train  could  not  inclose  the  thumb  of  the  image  with 
his  two  arras,  and  that  its  proportions  were  admirably 
preserved. 

The  Japanese  are  short  and  muscular  in  form, 
though  extremely  graceful,  and  excessively  polite. 
The  complexion  of  the  people  varies  as  in  China  ;  the 
women  of  distinction,  w^io  are  seldom  exposed  to  the 


JAPAN.  357 

sun  and  air,  are  as  fair  as  European  ladies.  Still 
there  is  very  little  beauty  among  them.  "  Large  heads, 
short  necks,  broad  snubby  noses,  and  oblong,  small, 
and  sunken  eyes,"  constitute  the  features  of  the  ma- 
jority. The  mode  of  wearing  their  hair,  and  the 
quantity  of  oiled  paper  in  which  they  wrap  them- 
selves for  their  journeys,  render  them  rather  ludicrous 
objects. 

The  foundation  of  this  ancient  Empire  was  laid  by 
Sinmoo, — probably  of  Chinese  origin, — about  two 
thousand  five  hundred  years  ago.  What  a  countless 
host  of  immortals  have  groped  their  dark  way  down 
to  the  second  death,  through  this  long  lapse  of  ages. 
The  government  is  very  peculiar.  The  emperor, — 
of  celestial  descent^ — has  no  voice  in  the  ordinary  af- 
fairs of  the  empire,  though  in  the  higher  decisions  of 
state  he  must  be  consulted.  A  generallissimo  of  ex- 
tensive and  dangerous  powers,  bears  the  real  authori- 
ty, and  might  easily  overpower  the  nominal  influence 
of  the  ''  son  of  heaven." 

According  to  some  travelers,  '•''  the  laws  of  the  coun- 
try are  few,  and  executed  with  the  utmost  rigor,  and 
without  respect  of  persons  ;  only  that  the  rich,  when 
found  guilty,  are  allowed  to  get  off  by  paying  pecun- 
iary fines.  Delinquencies  of  trifling  magnitude  are 
punished  with  death.  The  moral  education  of  the 
children  being  a  political  duty,  parents  are  rendered 
accountable  for  the  crimes  of  those  whose  early  vices 
they  ought  to  have  repressed.  In  each  village  there 
is  a  place  surrounded  with  palisades,  containing  in  the 
middle  an  inscription  in  large  characters,  consisting 
of  a  code  of  police  regulations,     The  punishments  in 


35S  JAPAN. 

the  seventeenth  century  were  marked  with  the  utmost 
cruelty.  "  Hacking  criminals  to  pieces, — opening  the 
bodies  with  a  knife^ — suspending  them  with  iron  hooks 
in  their  sides, — or  throwing  them  into  boiling  oil.— 
were  common  modes  of  execution.  As  in  many  other 
unchristianized  nations^  one  is  made  responsible  for 
the  offenses  of  another,  and  families  and  entire  villages 
are  visited  with  the  extremity  of  punishtnent  for  the 
fault  of  an  individual." 

The  language  of  Japan  is  distinct  from  the  Chi- 
nese, though  the  educated  class  understands  the  Chi- 
nese character,  and  reads  the  books  in  that  language. 
Their  own  is  alphabetic,  apparently  made  up  of  dis- 
tinct parts  of  the  complicated  signs  employed  in 
China. 

There  are  two  religious  sects  in  the  country,  that 
of  Sinto  and  the  followers  of  Budha.  "  The  first  ac- 
knowledges a  Supreme  Being ;  but  imagines  that  he 
is  too  exalted  to  receive  the  homage  of  men,  or  to  haA'e 
a  regard  for  their  petty  interests,  A  large  metalic 
mirror  is  placed  in  the  middle  of  the  temples,  to  re- 
mind the  worshipers  that  as  ev^ry  spot  on  the  body  is 
there  faithfully  represented,  the  faults  of  the  soul  are 
seen  with  equal  clearness  by  the  eyes  of  the  Immor- 
tals. The  feasts  and  ceremonies  of  their  worship  are 
agreeable  and  cheerful,  because  they  consider  their  de- 
ities as  beings  who  take  pleasure  in  dispensing  happi- 
ness. Budhism  here  is  said  to  be  so  mixed  with  the 
Sinto,  or  old  religion  of  Japan,  that  it  is  difficult,  and 
perhaps  will  become  in  time  impossible,  to  make  any 
discrimination  between  the  votaries  of  the  two." 

The  Jesuits  and  other  Romish  orders  had  the  trial 


JAPAN.  359 

of  nearly  a  century  to  propagate  their  faith  in  Japan. 
As  early  as  1549,  they  commenced  their  proselyting 
operations  in  this  remote  part  of  the  world.  Their 
early  success  stimulated  them  to  great  attempts  ;  seve- 
ral governors  and  tributary  kings  openly  professed 
Catholicismj  and  in  one  district  the  Jesuits  obtained 
the  entire  prohibition  of  every  other  religion.  But 
their  triumph  was  short.  A  persecution  almost  as 
barbarous  and  bloody  as  some  of  their  own,  commen- 
ced and  raged  with  such  fury,  that  tens  of  thousands 
were  massacred ;  their  faith  was  expunged,  and  their 
very  name  made  a  term  of  infamy  until  this  day. 
The  distresses  they  endured  are  ascribed  to  various 
causes.  The  political  intrigues  of  the  Jesuits,  and 
other  measures  suggested  by  a  presumptuous  confi- 
dence in  their  own  influence,  are  among  the  most  pro- 
bable reasons.  Some  affirm  that  the  captain  of  a  Por- 
tuguese vessel,  which  was  taken  by  the  Japanese,  rep- 
resented the  missionaries  as  minions  of  the  Portuguese 
government,  sent  to  prepare  the  way  for  their  con- 
quests. Others  suppose  that  something  ought  to  be 
attributed  to  the  commercial  jealousy  of  the  Dutch, 
but  upon  what  ground  this  allegation  is  made,  we  are 
not  informed. 

Our  usual  inquiry  has  yet  to  be  made, — What  can 
be  done  for  the  salvation  of  this  kingdom  ?  Notwith- 
standing all  the  rigor  of  their  exclusive  laws,  mer- 
chants trade  along  their  coasts,  and  come  in  contact 
with  great  numbers  of  the  natives,  among  whom  the 
bread  of  life  might  be  distributed,  and  perhaps  the  liv- 
ing teacher  reside.  The  following  is  extracted  from 
the  journals  of  captains  who  felt  an  interest  in  the 

31* 


360  JAPAN* 

propagation  of  Christianity,  and  who  wrote  to  the  late 
editor  of  the  Indo-Chinese  Gleaner  on  the  subject. 
The  ship  from  whose"  voyage  the  first  statement  is 
taken,  had  been  lying  at  Nangasaki,  in  the  island  of 
Kinsiu,  the  only  place  in  which  foreign  vessels  are  al- 
lowed by  law  to  anchor.  Even  this  limited  privilege 
is  at  present  confined  to  the  Dutch  and  Chinese  na- 
tions. "  After  quitting  Nangasaki,  they  landed  occa- 
sionally at  the  villages  on  the  coast,  and  were  courte- 
ously received  by  the  inhabitants,  who  were  very  nu- 
merous and  poor,  with  large  families  of  children."  They 
describe  Jesso,  one  of  the  islands  alluded  to,  and  situ- 
ated north  of  Niphon,  as  extensive,  and  inhabited  by 
a  mild  and  inoffensive  race  of  men.  They  are  subject 
to  the  Japanese,  who  have  a  large  city  on  the  south 
coast  of  the  island,  and  are,  no  doubt  according  to  in- 
structions, averse  to  intercourse  with  foreigners.  "The 
Sagalien  peninsula  is  situated  immediately  to  the  north 
of  Jesso,  from  whence  it  is  distant,  in  one  part,  but  a 
few  miles.  The  middle  districts  of  the  islands  are 
yet  in  the  possession  of  the  natives,  with  whom,  no 
doubt,  a  missionary  might  reside  in  as  much  security 
as  among  more  civilized  nations.  Perhaps  the  best 
expedient  which  could  be  adopted  to  plant  a  mission 
among  them,  would  be  to  ask  permission  at  one  place, 
and  if  refused,  to  proceed  to  another,  and  another,  un- 
til every  one  is  tried  which  held  forth  the  probability 
of  success  ;  and  then,  if  the  application  is  rejected  by 
all,  to  land  and  stay  without  leave." 

Another  captain,  who  visited  the  famous  capital  of 
Jeddo  or  ledo,  and  who  applied  for  permission  to  trade, 
gives  a  most  interesting  account  of  the  place  and  its 


JAPAN*  o6t 

inhabitants.     They  were  obHged  to  land  their  arma 
and   ammunition,  dismantle  the   ship,  and   submit   to 
the  closest  possible  surveillence.     "  At  first  our  visit- 
ors were  too  numerous  and  constant,  but  after  the  first 
day  strangers  were  kept  from  us,  and  not  even  allow- 
ed to   come   afloat  ;    however   the   shore  was    daily 
crowded  with   spectators,   a   very  great  majority   of 
whom  were  females."  "  On  the  fourth  day  I  was  grat- 
ified by  a  visit   from  two  interpreters,  one  of  whom, 
was  a  perfect  master  of  the  Dutch  language,   and  the 
other  knew  something  of  Russian  ;  each  could  speak 
a  little  English."     Their  inquiries  manifested  consid- 
erable   acquaintance  with   the   world,  and  especially 
with  its  politics.     Russia,  France,  England  and  Hol- 
land, were  all  subjects  of  conversation   and   inquiry. 
After  their  application  to  trade  was  as  usual  refused,, 
every   thing  was  returned  to   the  ship,  and   she  was 
towed  out  of  the  bay  by  about  thirty  boats.  "Express- 
ing the  hope,"  continues  the  captain,  "that  I  would  be 
allowed  to  leave  with  the  interpreters  some  trifling  re- 
membrance, they  answered  that  the   laws  of  the   em- 
pire were  so  strict,  that  they  could  not   receive  any- 
thing whatever.     I   believe  that   all  parties  regretted 
the  circumstances  under  which  we  were  quitting  each 
other.     The  shore  was  not  only  thronged  with   spec- 
tators, but  many  hundreds  came  by  water  to  the  neigh- 
boring shores,  to   gratify  their  curiosity  by  a  sight  of 
the  strange  vessel.     We  were  scarcely  quitted  by  the 
tow  boats,  when  some  of  these  persons  approached 
very  near,   and  at  length   accepted  our  invitation  to 
come  on   board.     Our  decks  were  soon  thronged  in 
such  a  manner  that  I  was  glad  to  see  a  guard  boat 


362  JAPAN. 

pull  towards  us  for  the  purpose  of  dispersing  the 
crowd,  by  whom  they  were  no  sooner  recognized  than 
they  fled  in  every  direction  ;  however  man^^  quickly 
returned,  and  when  we  would  point  out  a  guard  boat 
afterwards,  some  would  merely  laugh,  and  say  that 
they  did  not  care  for  them  ;  while  at  otlier  times  they 
would  quit,  and  give  us  to  understand  that  they  were 
afraid  of  being  destroyed.  In  the  course  of  that  day 
and  the  following,  we  had  not  less  than  two  thousand 
persons  on  board,  all  of  whom  were  eager  to  barter 
for  trifles.  Among  other  things  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
obtaining  some  little  books,  and  other  specimens  of 
the  language,  and  distributing  among  our  visitors  two 
copies  of  the  Chinese  New  Testament,  together  with 
some  tracts  written  in  Chinese,  which  language  ap- 
pears to  be  pretty  generally  understood  in  Japan.  If 
inclined  to  set  any  value  on  ideas,  which  can  be  form- 
ed concerning  the  hearts  of  men,  especially  of  men 
so  accustomed  to  disguise  their  feelings,  as  we  are  in- 
formed the  Japanese  are,  I  would  say  with  much  con- 
fidence that  our  dismissal  was  universally  regretted." 
Here,  we  have  the  modes  of  benefiting  this  nation 
suggested,  which  have  been  so  successfully  employed 
by  recent  missionaries  in  China.  One  is,  acting  against 
their  cobweb  prohibitions,  where  their  salvation  is  con- 
cerned ;  another,  freely  distributing  religious  books 
among  them.  A  third  has  been  mentioned,  in  which 
the  missionaries  fully  concur,  and  that  is  to  go  among 
them,  if  you  can  with  their  permission,  if  not,  without 
it ;  and  to  make  the  important  experiment,  whether 
our  fears  and  their  vetoes  necessarily  interfere  with 
our  duty  and  their  eternal  happiness.     When  a  na* 


JAPAN,  362 

tion's  laws  are  opposed  to  the  laws  and  the  glory  of 
the  King  of  kings,  which  must  be  set  aside  ?  If  our 
object  was  the  extension  of  an  earthly  kingdom,  it 
might  create  some  doubts  whether  we  ought  to  disre- 
gard the  regulations  of  an  empire;  but  as  long  as  those 
whom  we  oppose  are  opposed  to  the  Sovereign  of  hea- 
ven and  earth, — to  their  awn  happiness,  and  the  best 
interests  of  the  universe,  we  may  dismiss  all  apprehen- 
sions, while  we  look  simply  at  the  command,  "  Go  ye 
into  all  the  world  and  preach  the  gospel  to  every  crea-- 
ture."  Besides,  the  policy  of  kings  in  this  case  is  as 
obnoxious  to  the  wishes  of  their  subjects,  as  it  is  fatal 
to  their  welfare.  We  find  that  at  Japan,  the  Loo  Choo 
islands  and  China,  the  people  are  favorable  to  a  free 
intercourse  with  other  nations.  Let  ships  then  be 
sent  forth  with  such  articles  of  traffic  as  may  be  useful 
to  the  heathen,  accompanied  with  missionaries  and 
physicians,  who  can  benefit  their  souls  and  bodies, 
and  who  may  go  iri  an4  dwell  anGiong  them, 


CHAPTER    XIX 


CONCLUSIONi 


In  conclusiori  the  writer  would  ask  forgiveness— if 
it  be  a  fault— for  having  wandered  so  far  from  the 
route  of  his  journeyings.  His  object  has  not  been, 
simply  that  of  a  traveler.  He  was  sent  forth  as  a 
"  messenger  of  the  churches,"  to  learn  the  condition 
of  the  kingdoms  and  islands,  which  belong  to  the 
Savior,  and  which  the  church  is  commanded  in  the 
name  of  her  Sovereign  to  occupy.  Whatever  may  be 
the  impressions  produced  upon  the  minds  of  the  Chris- 
tian public  by  readino^  the  accounts  here  collected — 
however  difficult  and  discouraging  the  accomplish- 
ment of  their  duty  may  appear — still  their  obligations 
remain  imperative, — the  command  of  their  Savior  un- 
revoked, and  the  condition  of  the  vast  majority  of 
their  race  inexpressibly  wretched.  The  talent  of  a 
world's  salvation  has  been  laid  up  in  a  napkin,  until 
men  have  forgotten  that  it  was  ever  intrusted  to  them. 
This  talent  they  are  now  called  upon  to  exercise. 
The  slumbers  of  ages  have  been  broken — the  dreams 
of  God's  people  dissipated,  and  the  overpowering  con- 
viction begins  to  flash  upon  every  candid  mind,  that 


366  CONCLUSION* 

there  are  sufficient  means  in  the  possession  of  Chris- 
tians to  convert  all  nations,  and  that  probably,  long 
before  the  close  of  the  present  century.  Of  course  we 
speak  with  a  reference  to  the  self-multiplying  nature 
of  our  agency,  and  especially  to  the  exercise  of  that 
almighty  power  on  which  alone  we  depend,  and  which 
we  believe  would  attend  it. 

These  means  are  diffused  among  all  Christians, 
though  in  unequal  measures  ;  so  that  he  who  does  no- 
thing in  this  work  cannot  be  guiltless,  whatever  may 
be  his  circumstances,  or  sentiments.  From  the  com- 
mand of  God's  word,  and  the  history  of  many  past 
centuries,  we  conclude,  that  more,  much  more,  must 
be  done,  than  has  ever  been  attempted,  or  even  thought 
practicable.  The  minds  of  Christians  must  be  en- 
lightened on  this  subject — their  hearts  enlarged^ — their 
purses  opened — their  energies  and  influence  combined. 
No  longer  must  we  sing  with  deceitful  lipsj 

"All  that  I  am  and  all  I  have 

Shall  be  forever  thine ; 
Whate'er  my  duty  bids  me  give, 

My  cheerful  hands  resign," 

No  longer  must  we  believe  ourselves  Christians,  and 
yet  disbelieve  the  unequivocal  declaration,  and  express 
command,  "Ye  are  not  your  own,  for  ye  are  bought 
with  a  price ;  therefore  glorify  God  in  your  body 
and  in  your  spirit,  which  are  God's." 

The  reproach  of  eighteen  centuries  must  be  wiped 
away  from  the  sacred  office  of  the  ministry,  "  That  all 
seek  their  own,  not  the  things  which  are  Jesus 
Christ's."  With  a  world  before  us,  and  the  prospect 
of  the  greatest  usefulness  in  its  most  distant,  desolate 


CONCLUSION.  365^ 

corner,  no  man  must  imagine  himself  guiltless  in  any- 
other  place*  While  the  claims  of  other  countries  are 
as  powerful  as  those  of  England  and  America,  and 
the  command  of  Jesus  is  irrespective  of  places,  we 
must  either  show  that  England  and  America  are  no 
better  supplied  than  those  divisions  of  the  world  ;  or 
that  they  ought  to  be  so  j  or  we  must  prove  that  we 
are  released  from  a  universal  command, — that  we  have 
a  dispensatmn  to  remain  at  home.  We  do  not  wish 
to  imply  that  there  is  no  work,  of  the  most  important 
kind,  to  be  done  at  home — we  believe  that  the  "  sin- 
gle eye^"  turn  it  which  way  you  will,  beholds  but  one 
object.  The  respective  interests  of  the  domestic  and 
foreign  fields  by  no  means  clash  5  their  interests  are 
identical.  Still  there  appears  to  be  a  conflict,  and 
one  whose  din  is  too  loud  not  to  be  distinctly  heard. 
Whence  then  its  origin,  and  where  its  seat  ?  May  it 
not  be,  is  it  not,  between  the  dictates  of  a  half  sancti- 
fied  inclination  and  the  demands  of  a  half-suppressed 
conscience  ?  We  magnify  what  our  judgment  con- 
vinces us  is  comparatively  small — we  wish  to  believe 
of  invisible  dimensions,  what  we  must  close  our  eyes 
not  to  behold. 

Let  the  zeal  of  the  infatuated  Jesuits  shame  us  into 
action.  Their  native  land  and  its  antipodes  were 
alike  to  them.  "  After  my  return  to  Europe,"  said  one 
of  their  Chinese  missionaries,  "  when  my  intention  of 
seeking  laborers  for  this  vineyard  was  divulged,  im- 
mediately there  were  so  many  candidates,  that  there 
is  scarce  a  province  of  our  society  from  which  I  have 
not  received  many  letters  from  several  fathers,  not  only 
offerins:  themselves,   but  earnestly  requesting  me  to 

32 


36S  coNCLtrgtojT* 

accept  them  as  soldiers  in  this  enterprise.  As  if  th^ 
trouble  and  pains  of  these  long  and  dangerous  voy^ 
ages,  and  the  persecutions  so  certainly  to  be  under- 
gone^  were  as  nothing  to  this  undertaking.  In  Portu- 
gal, from  the  two  colleges  of  Coimbra  and  Ebora  alone, 
1  had  a  list  of  ninety  persons,  so  desirous  to  labor  in 
this  mission,  that  many  of  them  have  sent  me  very 
long  letters,  all  written  and  signed  with  their  own 
bloody  witnessing  in  this  manner  that  they  had  a  holy 
courage,  that  could  despise  the  threats  of  martyrdom  ; 
offering  cheerfully  to  the  Lord  that  little  blood  as  a 
testimony  of  the  great  desire  they  had  to  shed  it  for 
His  sake.* 

Are  there  no  ministers  of  the  sanctuary,  whose  use- 
fulness would  be  greatly  increased  by  leaving  their 
people  and  their  country,  and  following  in  the  steps 
of  these  blinded  men.  How  many,  alas  !  are  content 
with  a  limited  sphere  of  labor,  when  kingdoms  and 
empires  lie  in  utter  destitution-  Energies  are  ex- 
hausted upon  trifles,  talents  are  buried,  and  men  who 
might  be  exceedingly  useful  are  voluntarily  incarce- 
rated. Those  who  are  commanded  "to  proclaim  liberty 
to  the  captives,  and  the  opening  of  the  prison  to  them 
that  are  bound,"  must  have  their  m.essage  first  pro- 
claimed to  themselves.  The  missionary  work  de- 
mands the  most  exalted  talent,  and  extensive  learn- 
ing, and  consequently  the  arguments  employed  for  re- 
maining at  home,  are  the  very  ones  which  render 
more  imperative  the  duty  of  going  abroad.  It  is  true 
the  work  can   accommodate  itself  to   every  order  of 

*  Samedo's  History  of  China,  quoted  in  the  Chinese  Repository. 
VoL  I.,  page  487. 


CONCLUSION.  309 

talent  and  acquirement,  and  so  can  the  highest  sta- 
tions in  Christian  lands  ;  but  the  result  in  both  cases 
will  be  alike.  The  duty  of  acquiring  languages, 
translating,  writing,  instructing  on  all  subjects,  an- 
swering all  questions,  reasoning,  devising  facilities, 
managing  events,  in  many  cases  practicing  medicine, 
and  preaching  to  different  classes,  often  in  different 
languages,  will  soon  convince  those  who  make  the 
trial,  that  none  can  be  too  well  qualified  for  labors 
among  the  heathen.  We  speak  not  to  discourage  any, 
but  to  correct  the  opinions  of  some.  None  need  de- 
spair of  usefulness — all  who  feel  constrained  by  the 
love  of  Christ  should  enlist  in  this  service ;  but  the 
last  objection  which  ought  to  be  conceived,  is  that 
the  minds  of  any  are  so  vigorous  and  richly  furnished, 
that  the  most  difficult  project  of  earth,  opposed  by  all 
the  forces  of  hell,  is  not  sufficient  to  employ  their 
powers. 

And  why  is  it  that  so  few  of  our  theological  stu- 
dents engage  in  foreign  missions  ?  How  is  it  that  such 
numbers  never  prayerfully  agitate  the  question  of  duty 
on  this  subject — never  imagine  that  they  might  possi- 
bly be  more  useful  where  millions  have  no  teacher, 
than  where  hundreds  are  ready  to  occupy  the  places 
at  which  they  usually  aim.  With  all  their  argu- 
ments on  the  advantages  of  concentrated  effort,  to 
which  we  subscribe ;  and  with  all  the  growing  de- 
mands of  our  own  country,  the  supply  of  which  will 
no  doubt  hasten  the  universal  triumph  of  the  Gospel, 
— do  they  not  know,  is  it  not  the  opinion  of  all  in 
whose  judgment  they  have  the  greatest  confidence, 
that  those  who  go  abroad,  increase,  and  not  diminish 


370  CONCLVSIOH. 

the  effective  energy  at  home  1  The  spirit  and  the 
influence  of  the  naissionary  are  among  the  most  pow- 
erful means  of  awakening  thechurches^  and  directing 
the  attention  of  Ihe  young  to  her  highest  offices. 
Even  the  infant's  mind  is  arrested  by  missionary  ef- 
forts, and  tiius  pre-occupied  by  sentiments,  which  in 
many  cases  control  its  future  life.  We  look  with  pe- 
culiar interest  to  the  voung:  men  in  the  theoiosfical 
seminaries.  We  hear  of  numbers  who  enter  these 
schools,  under  the  solemn  conviction,  that  it  is  their 
duty  to  devote  their  lives  to  the  heathen.  Their 
friends,,  their  fellow  students^  and  often  the  churches 
regard  them  as  virtually  set  apart  to  the  work.  They 
are  commended  for  their  zeal — their  example  is  em- 
ployed in  stimulating  others  to  high  and  self-denying 
efforts  J  but  alas  I  before  they  close  their  preparatory 
studies — when  the  hour  of  decision  for  action  has 
come,  the  hearts  which  glowed  with  so  much  ardor 
have  sunk  into  apathy — the  cries  of  the  perishing  are 
no  longer  heard,  and  the  subject  of  missions  is  dis- 
missed, as  though  their  obligations  were  canceled — 
the  world  Christianized.  And  whence  this  leaving 
of  their  first  love  ?  What  influence  exists  in  the  semi- 
narieSy  which  proves  so  fatal  to  the  hopes  of  God's 
people  and  the  happiness  of  his  creatures  ! 

One  cause  has  been  assigned,  which  we  shudder  to 
contemplate.  It  is  said  that  in  some  seminaries,  those 
who  retain  their  zeal  in  the  cause  of  missions,  are 
classed  by  their  aspiring  fellows  among  the  good  men^ 
in  other  words,  men  of  an  inferior  order  of  intellect ; 
and  to  escape  the  association  of  ordinary  powers,  even 
with  elevated  piety,  many  arQ   tempted  to  \vithdraw 


CONCLUSION.  371 

themselves  from  their  less  distinguished  brethren. 
God  ^rant  for  his  own  honor,  and  the  welfare  of  the 
churches,  that  this  sentiment,  which  breathes  so  much 
of  the  spirit  of  its  inspirer,  may  alarm  every  mind 
which  it  enters.  With  whomsoever  this  sentiment 
exists,  we  cannot  but  fear  that  such  servants  are  above 
their  master.  They  must  either  believe  that  the  very 
command  under  which  they  themselves  profess  to  be 
preparing  for  the  ministry  is  not  true ;  or  that  Christ 
has  devolved  the  most  diificult  and  important  concerns 
of  his  kingdom  upon  the  feeblest  instruments  ;  or  else 
they  ought  to  perceive  that  they  are  indisposed  to 
comply  with  duty,  solely  because  it  is  arduous  and 
self-denying. 

The  fact  we  have  stated  in  regard  to  the  change  of 
mind,  rather  of  feeling  in  students,  exists,  we  fear,  in 
all  theological  schools  ;  the  reason  assigned,  we  hope 
is  limited  to  a  very  few.  What  other  cause  then 
may  produce  this  paralyzing  effect  ?  Is  there  nothing 
to  be  attributed  to  the  influence  of  professors  ?  We 
have  not  heard  that  any  are  opposed  to  foreign  mis- 
sions. We  know  that  the  talents  and  influence  of 
many  are  consecrated  to  this  cause.  Still  is  it  not 
evident,  that  either  the  demands  of  our  own  country 
(we  speak  not  of  our  Western  missionary  field,)  must 
be  exhibited  in  seminaries,  as  superior  to  those  of  hea- 
then nations,  or  else  there  must  be  a  great  declension 
in  the  piety  of  those  students  who  change  their  pur- 
pose, without  the  least  change  of  judgment?  With 
the  highest  opinion  of  the  most  extensive  and  varied 
attainments  when  sanctified,  still  we  fully  believe  that 
the    salvation  of  the   world   depends  infinitely  more 

32* 


3t2  CONCLUSION. 

upon  the  right  principles  of  the  heart,  than  upon  any 
training-  and  furnishing  of  intellect,  in  which  our  ven- 
erable professors  may  assist.  The  difference  is  this  ; 
piety — we  must  not  confound  it  with  a  morbid,  spuri- 
ous feeling  of  that  name — piety  will  stimulate  to  all 
efforts,  including  the  culture  of  the  mind  ;  whereas 
intellect  of  any  character  engaged  in  the  ministry,  and 
not  directed  by  its  proper  spirit,  has  generally  proved 
of  no  permanent  advantage  to  mankind.  We  sym- 
pathize with  those  who  have  been  called  to  the  re- 
sponsible duty  of  preparing  "the  leaders  of  God's  peo- 
ple," for  their  high  stations ;  and  earnestly  pray,  as 
the  churches  should  pray,  that  all  who  have  such  an 
important  direction  in  the  spiritual  concerns  of  the 
world,  may  be  under  the  especial  guidance  of  the 
Holy  Spirit. 

One  request  we  would  make  of  each  student  be- 
fore leaving  this  subject— that  he  would  set  apart  at 
least  one  entire  day  in  each  year  of  his  course,  to  as- 
certain by  prayer  and  fasting,  whether  it  is  his  duty 
to  remain  in  the  bosom  of  the  church,  or  to  extend  her 
rich  blessings  to  those  who  cannot  otherwise  enjoy 
them,  and  who  must  perish  without  them.  Place 
yourself  before  the  throne  of  the  Judge — gather  around 
you  that  part  of  the  great  assembly  whom  you  might 
influence  through  your  direct  efforts,  or  an  intermedi- 
ate agency,  and  impressed  with  all  the  associations  of 
that  day,  let  the  question  of  your  duty  be  determined — 
and  so  determined  that  you  shall  not  be  confounded, 
when  the  judgment  scene  is  present.  Multitudes  ap- 
pear to  take  it  for  granted  that  ihey  must  remain  at 
home,  without  examining  the  subject.    Whatever  may 


CONCLUSION.  373^ 

be  their  specific  object  in  entering  the  ministry,  we 
beg  them  to  consider,  whether  it  may  not  be  better 
gained  by  the  influence  they  may  exert  abroad,  and 
fromabroad,  than  by  remaining  in  their  native  country. 

But  the  work  of  evangeUzing  the  world  demands 
more  than  the  labors  of  the  ordained  missionary. 
There  must  be  teachers,  physicians,  merchants,  in 
places  mechanics — Christian  communities  who  can 
employ  all  the  various  means  by  which  the  heathen 
may  be  influenced,  and  at  the  same  time  exhibit  to- 
them  an  example  of  the  blessedness,  in  which  they 
labor  to  have  them  participate.  The  advantage  of 
sending  colonies,  and  not  merely  missionaries,  is  obvi- 
ous to  all  who  have  been  abroad.  The  work  would 
advance  in  propoiUion  to  the  variety  of  plans  adopted, 
and  the  number  of  instruments  employed.  Commerce 
and  medicine  harmonize  admirably  with  schools,  the 
press,  distribution,  and  preaching.  And  if  native  agen- 
cy is  to  be  efficiently  engaged  in  the  missionary  work,, 
it  can  never  be  prepared  with  the  same  facility  and 
perfection,  as  in  colonies  of  this  description.  Besides,, 
labor  and  expense  would  be  greatly  economized. 
Those  numerous  domestic  duties,  which  consume  sa 
much  of  the  time  of  single  missionaries,,  or  families^ 
might  be  devolved  upon  a  fevv^ ;  while  the  majority 
of  both  sexes  would  be  at  liberty  to  labor  exclusively 
for  the  heathen. 

Of  the  hundreds  of  physicians  who  take  their  di- 
plomas every  year,  are  there  none  with  the  vows  of 
God  upon  them  ?  None  who  will  unite  in  a  work 
so  glorious,  and  where  their  services  are  so  greatly 
needed.     In  many  stations  they  can  accomplish  more 


374  -  CONCLUSION, 

than  ordained  missionaries.  They  have  the  best  pass- 
port to  the  dwelhngs,  and  hearts  of  the  heathen — they 
possess  a  magnet,  whose  attraction  gathers  crowds, 
and  reaches  to  places  where  we  can  never  penetrate. 
While  they  can  accomplish  the  most  important  part 
of  a  missionary's  duties,  they  can  do  it  under  much 
greater  advantages  than  those  who  have  not  their 
knowledge.  Patients  feel  themselves  under  obliga- 
tions, and  are  disposed  to  comply  with  any  methods 
which  may  be  devised  for  their  spiritual  benefit. 
Congregations  have  been  thus  formed,  books  widely 
distributed,  instrumentality  increased,  and  souls  saved; 
besides,  the  perishing  have  been  rescued  from  death, 
the  suffering  relieved,  and  the  hearts  of  those  who 
would  have  been  widowed  and  fatherless,  made  to  sing 
for  joy. 

Every  argument  which  can  be  addressed  to  others, 
applies  to  physicians  ;  while  they  have  but  few  of  the 
reasons  for  refusing,  which  ministers  and  students 
generally  offer.  They  do  not  usually  remain  at  home 
from  a  sense  of  duty;  they  find  it  exceedingly  diffi- 
cult to  obtain  situations  and  patronage.  Their  ser- 
vices may  be  generally  dispensed  with,  or  performed 
by  others  who  would  gladly  become  their  substitutes. 
What  then  should  prevent  numbers  from  discharging 
this  important  and  commanding  duty?  How  can 
they  deliver  their  skirts  from  the  blood  of  souls,  if 
they  refuse  ?  If  their  education  have  been  extensive, 
— if  they  possess  much  skill  and  experience,  the  more 
are  they  needed,  where  so  much  may  depend  upon 
their  success.  The  writer  had  an  application  for 
medical  aid  from  the  second  king  of  Siam.     He  was 


CONCLUSION.  375 

absent  at  the  time,  and  did  not  return  until  after  the 
death  of  the  king.  How  readily  might  a  simple  effort 
in  such  instances  lead  to  the  most  desirable  results. 

Merchants  also  are  capable  of  exerting  the  most  salu- 
tary influence  among  Pagan  nations.  They,  too,  like 
physicians,  usually  draw  multitudes  around  them, 
who  might  be  instructed  both  orally,  and  by  books. 
Besides  this,  they  would  stimulate  to  labor,  by  open- 
ing a  current  for  its  proceeds.  They  would  improve 
the  habits  of  the  natives  by  introducing  the  useful 
arts,  and  meliorating  customs  of  civilized  life.  They 
would  commend  their  religion  by  exemplifying  its  prin- 
ciples in  all  their  ordinary  pursuits.  The  connexions 
which  they  might  establish,  and  the  obligations  which 
they  could  impose,  might  be  employed  for  the  spiritu- 
al welfare  of  multitudes.  Are  there  none  who  possess 
the  means  of  trade,  disposed  to  embark  their  capital 
in  such  an  interest  ?  Are  there  none  whose  engage- 
ments are  not  necessary  to  themselves,  nor  sufficiently 
available  to  the  great  objects  of  benevolence  to  prevent 
them  from  leaving  their  country  ?  The  churches  can 
furnish  numbers  unencumbered  with  domestic  cares ; 
or  if  married,  without  families.  What  should  prevent 
such  from  engaging  in  this  or  other  useful  employ- 
ments, when  they  have  nothing  to  keep  them  at  home, 
and  many  of  them  need  not  depend  upon  the  Christian 
public  for  support  ?  When  will  the  days  of  primitive 
Christianity  return,  when  every  Christian  shall  con- 
sider his  possessions  the  church's  property,  and  him- 
self a  servant  of  all  ! 

The  co-operation  and  influence  of  ladies  are  also 
greatly  needed  in  evangelizing  the  heathen.  In  many 
countries   they  alone  have  access  to   their  own  sex. 


376  CONCLUSION. 

The  only  one  who  ever  resided  at  Siam  was  admitted 
within  the  palace  walls,  and  among  the  numerous 
wives  of  the  princes,  and  chief  men  of  the  country. 
Infant  schools  and  female  schools  are  their  department, 
and  none  can  succeed  as  well  as  they  in  ohtaining 
scholars,  and  instructing  and  advising  mothers.  La- 
dies ought  to  accompany  every  mission  family.  The 
appeal  to  them  is  peculiarly  affecting.  It  is  the  lan- 
guage of  the  oppressed  and  miserable— the  united 
voice  of  more  than  one  half  of  their  sex.  The  simple 
control  of  mothers  over  children  is  enough  to  show, 
how  much  the  happiness  and  moral  habits  of  a  nation 
depend  upon  the  elevation  of  females.  Let  this  sub- 
ject then  enter  into  the  prayers  and  efforts  of  Chris- 
tian ladies,  and  such  measures  be  devised  and  such 
teachers  sent  forth,  as  shall  change  the  condition  of 
the  sex,  and  place  them  in  the  sphere,  which  in  mercy 
to  the  world  as  well  as  themselves,  they  were  design- 
ed to  occupy. 

There  is  still  another  class  in  society,  who  if  we 
can  judge  from  external  circumstances  of  providence, 
are  laid  under  peculiar  obligations  to  devote  them- 
selves to  this  work.  There  are  men  of  property  who 
are  engaged  in  no  business,  and  have  no  peculiar  ob- 
stacles to  such  an  undertaking,  whose  presence,  coun- 
sels, prayers  and  funds  would  greatly  redound  to  their 
Savior's  glory  in  heathen  lands.  AVhat  hinders  such 
from  employing  themselves,  and  their  important  talent, 
in  benefiting  a  world  ?  Has  their  wealth  wholly  or 
even  partially  released  them  from  the  obligation  of 
glorifying  God  to  the  utmost  of  their  ability  ?  Has  a 
man  born  to  a  fortune,  or  successful  in  acquiring  one, 
any  greater  liberty  to  consult  his  own  pleasure  iu  the 


disposal  of  himself  and  his  property,  than  another '/ 
•'  What  has  he  that  he  has  not  received,"  and  what 
has  he  received  wliich  he  is  not  bound  "to  minister 
according  to  the  abihty  which  God  has  given  him, 
that  God  in  all  things  may  be  glorified  through  Jesus 
Christ," 

But  without  specifying  other  classes  in  society,  we 
would  inquire  of  all,  whom  God  has  sanctified  to  him- 
self;  have  you  prayerfully  contemplated  the  obligations 
under  which  you  lie,  to  advance  the  great  design, 
which  brought  the  Savior  from  His  throne ;  and  for 
which  He  now  reigns  ?  If  you  have  lived  in  neglect 
of  this  duty  before,  ascend  now  some  eminence  which 
commands  the  world — 'gaze  upon  the  scene  of  desola- 
tion and  misery,  which  spreads  on  every  side — hear 
the  appeals  for  help,  from  a  thousand  millions  of  souls, 
multiplying  and  perishing  every  hour ;  and  then  with 
the  first  prayer  of  Paul  upon  your  lips,  build  an  altar 
to  Jehovah  Sabaoth,  and  offer  upon  it  "yourselves  a 
living  sacrifice,  holy,  acceptable  unto  God,  which  is 
your  reasonable  service."  With  such  a  spirit  and 
such  an  offering,  the  path  of  your  duty  v/ill  be  made 
plain. 

To  those  who  feel  themselves  under  obligations  to 
remain  at  home,  who  have  the  evidence  of  an  enlight- 
ened conscience,  and  a  directing  Providence  in  favor 
of  their  present  lot,  we  must  look  for  the  most  valuable 
services  in  the  kingdom  of  Christ.  They  must  elevate 
the  standard  of  piety  by  example  and  influence, — they 
must  furnish  the  world  with  suitable  men,  and  neces- 
sary means, — and  above  all,  they  must  pray  "  for  all 
men"  "  always,  with  all  prayer,  and  supplication  in  the 
spirit." 


o7S  CDNCLtSIOfJ. 

Ye  mothers,  did  you  realize  your  solemn  vows,  and 
unalienable  obligations  to  Christy  when  you  offered  your 
children  to  Him  at  the  baptismal  font?  He  accepted  His 
own  and  returned  them,  not  as  yours,  but  to  be  nour- 
ished, and  educated  for  His  service.  Yours  is  a  promi- 
nent part  in  the  conversion  of  the  world.  The  army 
which  the  King  of  kings  and  Lord  of  lords  is  to  lead 
on  through  successive  victory  to  the  final  conquest  of 
the  nations,  He  looks  to  you  to  replenish.  O  what  mis- 
ery must  be  endured,  what  guilt  incurred,  if  faithless 
to  your  charge.  And  O,  what  happiness  diffused  in 
the  kingdom  of  Christ — through  the  heaven  of  heav- 
ens,— if  your  vows  are  paid,  your  work  performed  ! 

And  ye  teachers  of  the  young  in  infant  schools,  Sab- 
bath schools,  and  all  the  various  institutions  of  the  land, 
we  plead  with  you,  in  behalf  of  the  children  committed 
to  your  care,  and  the  millions  upon  whom  they  are  to 
exert  a  saving  or  destructive  influence.  Make  their 
salvation  your  chief  concern,  and  leave  no  means  un- 
tried for  its  attainment.  In  the  name  of  the  Savior, 
we  ask  the  co-operation  of  all  God's  people  in  hasten- 
ing His  universal  reign.  We  would  plead  with  the 
wealthy — the  learned — the  eloquent — the  influential- 
all  who  can  act — all  who  can  pray.  When  every 
Christian  lives  for  the  conversion  of  the  world,  he 
shall  discharge  his  duty— and  the  world  shall  soon  be 
saved.  O  that  He,  with  whom  is  the  promise  and  the 
power, — without  whom  agents  cannot  be  qualified,  nor 
agency  successful, — would  soon  raise  up  such  men, 
and  suggest  such  measures,  as  His  Spirit  may  employ 
in  subduing  the  world  to  Himself! 


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DUE  AS  STAMPED  BELOW 

NOV  1  5 1981 

RET'D     OCT  ;>  I 

1981 

APft30l987 

IR  cm.     MAY  2  7 

1986 

)||AY  %  0  ZOQ( 

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